lildisco

All depends on that right foot, what grade/quality fuel you're using (Top Tier Preferred), winter mix fuel, tire pressures, driving style etc. Most people forget that this is a turbo engine & is around full boost around 2,300 RPM (Don't have the exact figures in front of me) & need to 're-learn' how to drive in order to get the best MPG's out of the 2.0 Ecoboost. Accelerating to stop lights/signs is a very good way to burn fuel in these things. Just keep an eye on the fuel economy mode on the left side of the Speedometer & you'll see what i mean when you accelerate to stop. If you gradually get up to speed & coast to a stop sign, you're MPG's go way up. Anticipating stop lights or 'knowing' the cycle is also a good way to increase MPG's as you're not wasting fuel idling when you're getting 0 MPG's. I've also seen a 2-4 MPG difference between a Top Tier station & a non Top Tier Station. Gas just isn't gas any more. Different Gas Stations have different additives in the fuel & some are worse than others. Speedway Gas Stations are the worse & I avoid them at all costs unless it's an emergency to get me a few miles up the road. When my wife drives the car, she can't get much above 25-26mpg in the summer on the highway. When I drive, we get closer to 28-29. In the winter, she can barely get 23-24, but i get 25-27. We're taking a road trip over the weekend & it'll be the first road trip with my Oil Catch Can installed, so maybe we'll see an improvement there as well.

Here's a link to the Catch Can install that I did on my 2.0 Ecoboost, Post #21 is the actual install pictures. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/page-1 Here's what it caught after around 400 miles with the Catch Can installed:

No dice for us Ford peeps

Not too far away, I'm in Oberlin & go out to Strongsville every so often. Nice to see some 'enthusiasts' around

It was 70 like 2 Fridays ago, lol. I'm out on the west side in Lorain County, where bouts are you located?

I installed the OEM front & rear splash guards. Total time was under 30 minutes. Only 2 holes need to be drilled on the fronts, per the instructions. The rest are really easy reusable push pins Has really made a difference with dirt and debris getting into the bottom of the front doors.

Doesn't appear to be a charcoal filter. I don't have the filter any more & i'm too lazy to look at the filter in the car, but I want to say that the part #'s were the same between the two filters. Maybe in the next few days I'll pop open the glove box & compare it with the above picture. The owners manual on my 2016 does call for a FP-71

Factory Part # is FP-71 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22115-check-that-cabin-air-filter/?do=findComment&comment=166419

& here i thought that paying $365 for a catch can was high. Just at a glance, it looks like a decent kit, but 20-30 install time seems a little far fetched.

Just a few miles over 400 since catch can was installed & decided to drain the can to see what was caught. I will admit that I spilled a little bit getting out from underneath the car, but still a decent amount for the mileage. We don't really beat on it & we mainly drive city/country roads with very little highway. Also have used full synthetic oil since around 2,000 miles.

Here's what my Catch Can has caught in 400+ miles on my 2.0 Ecoboost. Well worth the investment to not have this being regurgitated back into the engine. We usually don't beat on the car & usually city/country roads with very little highway & full synthetic oil since around 2,000 miles. Currently around 12,500 miles.

It's called coking & seems to be a problem with most ecoboost's due to direct injection. As stated above, it's a common issue with direct injection period as gasoline doesn't clean the valves anymore when fuel is injected directly into combustion chamber & not through the intake manifold. Check out my post about adding a catch can to a 2.0 Ecoboost: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/ You also might want to look at this to get a better understanding of ecoboost's & blowby: http://teamrxp.com/p/instructions I checked my catch can with about 70 or so miles with the catch can on & it gave me 3 or 4 drops of yellowish oil like liquid. I now have close to 500 miles with the catch can & very curious to see how much crap is in there now. A catch can on ANY forced induction vehicle is a must in my opinion.

I do know that the rears are different on a non-sport. I picked up my rear set from a member with a sport who said that they didn't fit. I believe that the fronts 'might be' the same. They look decent & have noticed a lot less debris on the front doors since i installed the OEM splash gaurds

If you ever get wax on the plastic parts, easiest thing to do is use an old school rubber eraser to get the wax off. My father in law decided to wax my mother in law's cx9 a few years ago because he was bored & ended up waxing EVERY THING. Took me some time, but eventually i was able to remove all the wax residue off all the textured body panels.

They might not be able to do as it's a liability & a safety issue. akirby's solution is probably the best way to handle the situation.

Pretty easy, but it's not something that can be done remotely, unless you have your laptop & obd2 adapter & forscan already & connected to the Internet

Definitely would check it. It may also help to note that neither of us smoke, but the wife doesn't like having the windows down while going over 55 due to the wind noise, so we do use the blower function a lot. Chef, never used a reusable cabin air filter. How do you tell if it's dirty or not or when it's time to clean?

It didn't line up with with anything. But i believe that the new filter had the same markings. Neither had FP-71 mentioned anywhere.

It hasn't been officially a year since we purchased our '16 Fwd 2.0 Ecoboost & i was curious about how dirty the cabin air filter was. Mind you, the car is in a garage most of its life & has a little over 12,200 miles. This thing was FILTHY. I mean nearly black. I don't know if it's a good thing, or a bad thing, since it kept all of that from entering further into the cabin. I believe it's supposed to be changed once a year according to the manual, but i may do twice a year by the looks of it. The filter is a Motorcraft FP-71.I purchased mine from Amazon for $14.44 +tax. Well worth the investment!

That's not a Ford Corporate issue, it's an Apple Ford issue

I don't understand how this is Fords fault? You purchased a part not directly from Ford dealership you went to, with the right part # on the box, but wrong part in the box. Then you basically paid a Ford dealership to troubleshoot the issue, which resulted in total of 5 hours labor,if i read your post correctly (2 trips). I really don't understand why you think Ford Corporate would reimburse you for anything, even though the part in question was from another Ford Dealer. If anything, Apple Ford should reimburse you for the part & possibly some labor associated with the wrong part being delivered.

About 3 or 4 drops of light brown liquid came out. Kinda looked like fresh oil. I wasn't expecting much as everything is still settling in (oil/stuff in the tubes making their way to the catch can). But, HEY, that's 3 or 4 drops not making back into the intake.

Extra long hoses might decrease the efficiency of the catch can. The the fluid/gases have much longer to travel to reach the catch can. There is space on the top passenger side rear of the engine, but residential fluid tends to go down with gravity, so we decided to mount it on the frame rail. Lower than the intake & PCV system. There is several installs that show the catch can mounted off the passenger side motor mount, but the bracket that came with my kit was much smaller. You still have to remove the bottom engine cover to drain the catch can, but you should be draining it every oil change anyways. We have nearly 100 miles on the car since the catch can install, so i was going to put it up on ramps & drain the can to see what has been caught. It hasn't been real cold, maybe in the 20's, since we installed it and this weekend it's supposed to be in the 50's - 60's. Should be interesting to see what, it anything has been caught. I also did an oil change a 100 miles or so before the catch can was installed, so that 'may' effect what was caught as the oil has been diluted yet.

*cough* ORLY? *cough* ;)

The teamrxp.com design is one of the best out there as it pretty much is catching things when it's boosting or in vacuum,hence the 3 ports on the can. Most catch cans go between the intake manifold & the PCV & only catches stuff when a vacuum is present, this catches more because of its design.