What are you using to read codes?

Check the charging voltage shortly after a start and it should be +- 14.2v

Check for parasitic drain.

1 hour ago, nevans said:

I had the shop re-check the charging system.  Everything checked out OK, still getting charging system alarms until yesterday.   Dash lit up like a christmas tree and car is dead.   I had it towed in again......verdict......ECU is bad.  Possible that bad alternator replacement cooked the ECU?  I am considering getting this to a dealer, however, I will not pay for 2 alternator replacements.   Thoughts?  comments?   Yes we've already replaced the engine due to coolant intrusion.  I am dumping this thing soon. 

It sure sounds like the shop you've been using is incompetent, and agree a visit to a dealership is likely what's needed now.

Who do you owe money to for the two alternators?

Thanks for that omar302

I would be concerned for the front differential and would limit the distance as best possible using the smaller diameter spare on the front, and the same goes for the rear.

I can see the reason to disable the AWD because the wheel speed sensors would make it appear that one wheel is slipping, but my concern is the two differentials whenever there's an odd sized wheel used.

Agree with @Cerberus LiquiMoly is a top quality oil, but prices in the US are too high and there's other good quality alternatives available in NA at reasonable prices.

https://www.amazon.com/stores/LIQUIMOLY/page/1D6CB30F-A710-407D-A68A-03F6F906593B?ref_=ast_bln

Getting the steering buttons interface working isn't necessarily going to help with the mic.

One of the downsides buying too cheap.

Crutchfield prices are very competitive and tech support cannot be beat.

You will probably need an adapter like the ones in the below link, but which ones will depend on your vehicle model and the 3rd party head unit.

https://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/steering_wheel_control_adapter.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_751/Factory-System-Adapters.html

If yours came with HID I would stick with that.

The problem I see using LED's in housings that weren't designed for them results in poorly focused beams that blind the oncoming traffic.

On 7/5/2022 at 7:06 PM, 1004ron said:

Also on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013GU2VTI/?coliid=I29T2MXYNEX3SF&colid=17XD4QIGE1U54&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

On 12/10/2023 at 5:33 PM, fishx65 said:

Just had my first TPMS sensor die in my 2011 SEL.  I'm guessing it's a good idea to replace all of them  since they're 13 years old?. Any decent aftermarket brands out there????

Yes.

Haven't dealt with this before, but suspect its the sensor behind the bumper - if its clean then try disconnecting is and see it the behavior stops.

I use the OBDLink MX+ with Forscan.

The symptoms you describe point to a problem with the alternator and/or battery, so I'll ask how you went about testing both.

19 minutes ago, Doorpro said:

Thanks for the info dabangsta. Do I have any options to get Carplay to work and keep the wife happy?

Do a search for converting to SYNC 3

It requires new hardware and is fairly pricy.

You could also look on Critchfield for 3rd party systems.

The only advice I can offer is to find a reputable real mechanic - not easy to diagnose here based on that description.

28 minutes ago, DrivingofftheEdge said:

I guess this over priced team rxp set up is junk?

It does appear so.

I google search for reviews indicates that many are happy with the RXP.

For continuity threads were merged.

I just checked my JLT/J&L catch can and it was 3/4 full of a condensate oil mix.

Mine is about 6" higher than the PCV.

If yours isn't collecting anything, particularly in winter, then contact the supplier for answers, or you could contact J&L to see if they have something for your model.

https://sbfilters.com/collections/oil-separators

I see the install on the 2.0L is a little more work - need to pull the intake manifold back.

On 12/6/2023 at 4:47 AM, RrmyGuy said:

I bought it from rockauto.com,  it's a centric brand master cylinder. It wasn't the cheapest, but it was listed as the favorite part. 

This is likely the same issue with the radiator cooling fans and their control module i.e. non-OEM replacements don't work.

If you've had the master cylinder off then you'll need equipment to perform the ABS bleed procedure.

My J&L CC is about the same height as the PCV valve on my 2.7L and works as @handfiler mentioned above.

I would not mount the CC higher than the PCV - gravity would be working against it.

Edit: or the CC higher than the PCV would result in nothing getting up to it or past it, but if that theory is correct the  how is the oil getting to the areas you've reported.

Sounds like you're throwing parts at it without any diagnostics, which most often works out a whole lot more costly - if you don't have the diagnostic equipment and skills it might be best to take it to a reputable service shop.

Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) 1 QT - $0.99

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/valvoline-maxlife-multi-vehicle-automatic-transmission-fluid-(atf)-1-qt-1138761

Only good for pick up at store.

46 minutes ago, kruzr1 said:

I've used weathertech before and they installed easily and were  durable. Unfortunately they don't make a set for the ST model.

I have these on my 2017 Sport - don't know if the trim is different on the ST - you could contact the seller and ask about the ST

A-Premium Set of 4PCS Mud Flaps Splash Guards Mudguards Mudflaps with Hardware Kits Accessory Compatible with Ford Edge (Sport), 2017-2020

Edit:

A-Premium Set of 4PCS Mud Flaps Splash Guards Mudguards Mudflaps with Hardware Kits Accessory Compatible with Ford Edge ST 2019-2020

9 hours ago, NzP said:

Finally I replaced a torque arm with an OEM. Now I feel just a little vibration but a brend new OEM tensioner still slightly jumps. Like I said I put a new harmonic balancer and belts. Still no codes(never seen any codes). I tried to spin alternator and AC pulleys by hand, could not feel any problems with bearings...

What are you using to read codes?

What brand switch were the duds? - just so that others know what to avoid, although for items like this I'd stick with OEM.

What RPM for the pressures you listed?

Is the light on all the time or at idle only?

9 hours ago, edjunior said:

Do you still have a factory warranty on this?  Why don't you take it in and make some good use of the warranty?  

AntB  is in Poland.

AntB please add location (Poland) and your vehicle Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

18 hours ago, Palalcocar said:

Hi everyone. Today after changing the battery, my radio got stuck. Now it's asking for an unlock code. Does anyone have this code? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

It looks like you're in Romania.

Please add your Location and vehicle Model/Year to your profile signature  - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Take your proof of ownership to your local dealership and they should be able to provide the code.