1004ron

I use four jack stands on my level garage floor - I've also done it on four ramps which is quicker and easier - I don't remove any wheels, but the ST might be different and require a wheel removal.

All the more reason to test it.

It does not have to be fully charged for the type of tester that I posted - my tester has been very reliable.

Why not get the battery tested, or buy one of these testers (I have this one): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z67MMGC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

onyxbfly has the H7 installed, so ask him for photos of the installation and that will give you a good idea of the available space to accommodate the H8.

Welcome. What's the mileage and service history? Have you done any maintenance on the transmission, such as a fluid replacement? Did you take it to Ford for them to diagnose it and quote on repairs if needed?

Thanks enigma-2 As you can tell, I didn't Google it before posting !!! I'll do that test, which is easy enough, but I'm starting to suspect that the issue is elsewhere, possibly the canister. A few thoughts - pull the electrical plug on the EVAP valve and run it like that for a while, even though that may generate a code, or leave the hose from the canister off and wrap some fabric around the inlet to the valve as a filter to prevent ingesting dust/debris.

The 2019 onward, do they still have the coupler in front of the RDU in addition to the one in the PTU?

Correct, no codes. Air filter is clean - changed only 4K miles back. Spark plugs and PCV valve changed 2K miles back. I'd not suspect any of those considering idle stumble occurs only immediately after gassing up at idle, and then nothing until the next time I gas up. Exact same symptoms which cleared with a new EVAP valve - just wish I knew the procedure to test the valve, but now leaning towards spending the $70 for a new OEM replacement.

The rear drive does disengage on my 2017 Sport and I'd be very surprised if it's changed on the later models. Please add your Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

36K miles and three years after replacing the EVAP valve its stumbling at idle immediately after gassing up, and NO I don't click the nozzle again after it shuts off. No codes this time and I removed the valve and without power its shut and holds vacuum. Might buy just the valve and attempt to install it on the original assembly.

For any difference in wheel diameter/circumference between the left/right wheels on any differential front/rear will have that differential working harder for every mile covered, and the size of that difference will determine how many miles before failure. Tire rotation is important, but has nothing to do with the impact on the differential due to diameter/circumference. The left/right imbalance might be more detrimental on the front as the front wheels are always powered, whereas the rear disengage at cruising speeds. Some tire places will trim a new tire to match the existing three.

Why not go to a site like RockAuto.com and select the parts listed for your model? Sound like the Fusion guy is leading to more confusion. What Model & Year Ford Edge do you have? - please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/ I highly doubt that the AC compressor needs to be removed for an alternator replacement.