1004ron

Yesterday on my way home from work with just over 1/4 tank of gas the check engine light came on. Stopped to gas up at Costco later and read the codes and got P144C - cleared codes and it hasn't reappeared. Looking to replace the evap purge valve for the second time on my Edge. Considering a Dorman replacement this time - $40 on RockAuto.com 2017 FORD EDGE 2.7L V6 Turbocharged Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid | RockAuto

clay0708 you could just pull the hose and add coolant to bring it back to normal working level, but is it due for complete replacement on mileage/age? Also, check to see if yours qualifies for the upgraded transmission linkage bush. .

On my wife's 2015 Mustang I went with OEM Ford components to upgrade it to Sync3 which included the larger screen at a cost of around $1,300 and more recently for my wife's BMW X5, that replaced the Mustang, I went with OEM components at a cost of $1,700, and if faced with the choice I'd do the same again.

I usually buy from RockAuto.com but they don't stock this type of part. eBay I find is typically the highest price these days or fakes. I was right, the Ford place I bought from drop-ships using RevolutionParts - Sell OEM Parts and Accessories - won't be using them again.

What online parts sales sites do you use? I ask because the place I bought the above-mentioned rain sensor at is very slow and appears to drop-ship - they don't carry stock. https://www.onlinefordpartscatalog.com/

Driving without the oil dipstick will not impact the oil pressure, unless the loss of oil is such that the oil pump loses suction.

If I had Sybc2 I'd definitely get this modification. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEQy8pUX4aM

It would be useful to post a link to what you're referring to.

So that we can all understand what you're referring to post a link to where you read that a catch-can is able to influence the oil pressure.

There is no way the catch-can can impact on the oil pressure.

Welcome. I found the info and video posted in this thread is more than adequate for the replacement - what specifically do you mean by "the ones above dont seem to work" ? Have you actually tried it and if so what part of the process are you having difficulty with?

I tried, but don't really understand what you're asking, and struggle to see how it relates to what I posted. .

@Haz Do you have any instructions on how to remove and install the two rain sensor covers - I ask because I've watched both windshield installer struggle with this and resort to brute force. Edit: I found this on the forum which covers my query. .

Parts ordered - will be a project for the weekend of 1/25 I added the two covers because SafeLite and RiteWay installers butchered them. Lesson to others, when you have a windshield replacement make sure its OEM glass and not a Chinese knock-off, and make sure all related functions such as lane guidance and rain sensing is in 100% working order. .

Welcome. The system will automatically learn the new TPMS locations after a wheel rotation.

Nope, I've always had "courtesy wipe" activated. On arrival home I took a closer look at the sensor and its got to be the poor install/mount by the roughneck windshield installer. Now, should I try one of these gel kits at $13 or just go with a new sensor at $40-$50 ??? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K29SR6T/?coliid=I10ATXHI5DC7CA&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

This happening for the first time in my ownership since purchasing it in March 2017, I'd say it's not normal, and not healthy for the windshield and wipers.

I have a minor irritation since the last windshield installation - occasionally when I turn on the ignition/start the car the wipers will make one sweep on the clean dry windshield. The sensor works well to control the wipers when it drizzles or rains, just don't like the sweep on a dry windshield. I'm guessing that the gel pad on the sensor isn't clean and seated well, so looking at lifting it cleaning it and reseating, or should I just go with a new sensor. I've always kept the auto rain sensing turned on, and only turn it off for the car wash, but until I get this sorted I leave it off.

There's been a similar pinned notice for a long while, and just like this one, it also gets ignored.

High ambient temperature doesn't result in coolant evaporation. "engine starts rough when cold started, but clears up after about a minute or two" The loss of coolant and the rough running on cold starts points to coolant intrusion. There's a number of tests that can be done to confirm the coolant intrusion - try a forum search.

As I was getting set up with my laptop to follow the above instructions when I noticed the "RGTM On-Demand Self-Test", so I thought lets try this and it worked. As the test ran it drove the tailgate full open, but being at the drivers seat I wasn't sure of what I saw, so repeated the test and yes it went full open - then I tried the buttons and they too took it wide open - wide open is where its staying seeing as there's more than adequate clearance to by open garage door. Thanks everyone - I didn't need to spend a dime !!!

Thanks @Wubster100 I'm wondering if my Forscan version is capable of writing the As Built to the RGTM ? I'll be trying that this evening.

Thanks @omar302 That's worth a try before I start throwing money at it. I always resist taking it to the dealership but considering it now.

This evening I disconnected the battery again for more than 20 seconds and then used my laptop and Forscan to reboot the RGTM - nothing changed. I wonder if there's any value in paying my local dealership to perform the procedure listed in the below article? https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10159460-0001.pdf In this post from the Explorer forum the OP was experiencing exactly the same issue and resolved it - "I've borrowed a scanner and initialized the tailgate. That fixed the issue." How do I do this? https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/power-lift-gate-does-not-open-all-the-way.504939/