1004ron

 

JL1T-14G381-AJ

This software release is the latest update in our continued efforts to improve system performance, device connectivity, and the overall SYNC experience.

This software contains all previous enhancements, so there is no need to install any other updates. The installation of this update will take up to 60 minutes to complete. DO NOT remove your USB drive or turn off your vehicle. You must wait until Installation Complete is displayed on the center screen before removing your drive or turning your vehicle off.

While the update is loading, SYNC will not recognize your mobile phone or media device. Be sure your vehicle engine is running (not in accessory mode) throughout the entire installation process. Although your vehicle must be in park when you initiate the installation process, once the download process has begun, you may drive your vehicle.

Really, Ford couldn't figure out a way to do this without the engine running for up to 60 minutes !!!!

The space used on my USB stick was 1.61GB

Crazy that they specify 32GB - maybe the updates that include NAV maps need that size.

just installed it, don't see any difference. and couldn't find the release notes

I just updated mine using a USB stick, which I think is a better method.

I can't find the release notes, and cannot see any obvious difference.

How does Ford do the Navigation Map updates? - I'm in a new subdivision and my street isn't on the Sync Nav maps yet.

Has anyone experienced tramlining? Under what conditions did it occur? What did you do to solve the problem?

Have you?

Try calling the SYNC support team (Monday-Saturday, 8:30am-8:00pm EST).

 

United States: 1-800-521-4140.

Canada: 1-800-387-9333.

Thanks, I'll call them on Monday as the automated recording advised that they're only available Mon-Fri.

When it doesn't actually make a call to "0", I get a message that it could not establish a phone call.

Apologies if this has been covered - a search revealed nothing.

This problem comes and goes, and hasn't made an appearance for a few weeks, and then out of the blue its back.

Often when I turn on the car it attempts to make a call and the voice advises to call 911 if this is an emergency, and if I look at the dialled numbers on my phone it show a solitary "0" in the "recents".

Also, occasionally when turning on the car the radio goes silent and then a notice appears that it could not connect to my phone, and when closing the message the phone shows connected, and is able to make handsfree calls.

2017 Ford Edge Sport Sync 3 with iPhone 7.

PS. I see another Android user reporting the same.

https://forums.androidcentral.com/ask-question/814947-why-does-my-galaxy-s8-dial-0-when-connecting-ford-sync.html#post6018509

Either way, it was a constant result measured over 6 years of track use I am certainly convinced. To each their own

Redline is most certainly one of the top lubricant brands, but your coolant or oil temperature observations aren't really a measure of the oils performance.

The temperature gauge underneath the tachometer in the BMW. I assumed it was water... maybe it was oil. Either way, it ran cooler. Hey, I am just the driver lol...

 

EDIT:

 

Yeah, lol definitely oil. Here is a pic:

 

temp gauge.jpg

 

Ran around 240-250 unless at track, would get up near 260. After Redline, Never got above about 248 even at the track. Normal driving it stayed down around 240.

The automatic control of the coolant will also have a greater impact on the oil temperature than the anti-frication properties of the oil, so its more likely some other influence such as ambient temperature that you noticed.

Redline products are good, but in my opinion you're using the wrong thing to gage its performance.

water/coolant

The coolant temperature is regulated by the thermostat, so not representative of the anti-friction properties of the oil.

I previously owned a Nissan 350z and then a BMW 335i. in the 350z I started using Mobil 1 full sythetic but I noticed after a while it was leaving black exhaust residue on the back of my car. I also noticed temps weren't any different from the stock oil. I changed over to Redline and the black crap stopped and average track temperatures dropped by about 5 degrees. In the 335i, same results when switching from the BMW stock Euro-Castrol blend over to Redline oil. 5-10 degrees cooler at the track. I later added Redline water-wetter to the radiator and dropped another 3-5 degrees.

 

Redline is the real deal. It is ether-based and seems to work much better than newer type synthetics for keeping temperatures cool. Usually runs about 12-14 dollars per quart... I do plan to use it in this 2.7EB as well: engine oil, radiator additive, transmission fluid if applicable (my 1st automatic lol) , and differential fluid. The 335i also had a top mounted open-element filter, with o-rings, and for comparison I never found anywhere but the dealer to buy them. OEM, yep, but they worked great! FYI I never had issues with O2 sensors, etc. using Redline and the 335i was also a DI TT engine that I am sure is just as advanced if not more so...

What temperature indication were you referring to above?

UPDATE on PTU that was replaced 2 days ago. I got about 20 miles before the new PTU started leaking trans fluid in the garage. Leaking much more than it was when I took it in the first time to be replaced (98,000 miles). Just got back from dealer and looked at it on the rack. Fluid is leaking from the seal to the half shaft.

 

What is the problem with these PTU parts?

 

more to follow I am sure......

Sounds like you got a poorly refurbished one.

 

Flood control is enabled. Please wait at least 4 seconds before attempting to search again

tried a forum search for "GPS" and that came up with nothing, so for the second search attempt I use "Navigation" and get the above notice.

Really, two successive searches is flagged as a "Flood", LOL.

My Costco junk mail this week had a 3T jack on special at $100 with free shipping - found it at my local Costco and took one home - thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

I'm also pleased that its low enough to use on my wife's Mini Cooper.

Now to find a good deal on a pair of 3T jack stands.

https://www.costco.com/.product.996603.html

I've been buying my Motocraft oil filters from Amazon for $8 and will most likely stick with them.

I can't see that a third party filter can offer superior performance to the OEM filter, if they improve the micron filtering it'll be at a pressure drop penalty, and if I happen to have a warranty issue down the road there'll be no arguments using OEM.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010QU0SPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New light installed in less than an hour while I waited this afternoon.

The supervisor showed me the old light and the seal looked good on it and no sign of damage.

It seems like he was informed of my review, because he was trying to make excuses why he didn't see it prior to calling me to collect.

Got a call that the LED light arrived and was told that there's no rental car for this time because the job will take only 4 hours.

I can use their shuttle which doesn't go as far as my work, or wait while the job is done - more time off work for me.

Very poor that they called me to collect when they knew there was a defect, instead of keeping the vehicle until it was complete - the water in the sealed LED was not there before they did the bumper work.

Makes you question who did the inspection and why they didn't see it. or did they think I might not be that observant - it didn't take me long to point it out when I collected the vehicle.

The water in the LED and the 5 places where I can see blemishes in the paint will mean a one star review and I'll be looking to get any future work and services done elsewhere.

Took off work early today to stop in at Ford's Collision Centre for them to "fix" the water in the LED DRL which I was told would take about 30 minutes.

The supervisor takes it around the building and returns with it 10 minutes later only to explain that its a sealed unit and he needs to order a new one, and when it arrives he'll need the vehicle for half a day, so looks like more time off work and a rental car.

I cleaned and then monitored the leak on mine and found it to be coming from what I assumed to be the oil pressure switch near the crank pulley, and when I had it at Ford a week ago they confirmed the leak location and replaced what I learnt is an oil solenoid.

See the attached photo of the drain plug after the Ford service - clearly they didn't wipe it off or I now have a leaking drain plug - I've cleaned it and will monitor it and the solenoid.

The safety recall was done on Friday 18 Aug and all looks fine and everything appears to be working fine, ........ no I'm not planning to test the airbag.

Got my car back after 4 days at the collision centre.

They repainted the complete front bumper and there's no sign of peeling, but there about five very small pock marks in different places on the bumper, and water in the right side DRL.

I'll live with the hardly noticeable blemishes - I don't know how they prepped it, so hoping it doesn't peel again.

I pointed out the water to them and they said it should go away, but if not to return for it to be repaired.

The water is still in the light after a 30 minute drive at 70mph in 90 degF ambient, so not looking like its going anywhere.

The service department completed the solenoid and air bag work and returned it to the collision centre who had it ready for me to collect this afternoon.

This dealership is conveniently located on my way to work, so I'll stick with them - I had the service advisor linked to my file changed, and back with the one I always dealt with when I took my previous company car there.

They obviously don't wipe the plastic drain plug before reinstalling it, or it's leaking - I cleaned it and the area around the solenoid and will check in in a few hundred miles.

Edit:

See attached picture showing the leaking solenoid that was changed.

The workshop manual shows it as a oil pressure control solenoid. Fault testing sheet also confirms that its responsible for oil pressure readings.

My Edge was checked in on Tuesday morning at the dealerships collision centre and that morning I called the service department to have them take care of this solenoid and the drivers side air bag recall, and they agreed.

This morning I called to check progress and the service department hadn't made any arrangements - the service advisor called late this afternoon saying that the tech that diagnosed the solenoid leak says it will take 6 hours so they cant fit it in around the collision centres activities - I told him that 6 hours to change the solenoid was BS and he has until tomorrow afternoon to get it done or I'll take it elsewhere.

This is the same service advisor that told me that the air bag safety recall was merely an "advance notice" and there's no parts available in the US, whereas as the service advisor that I've always dealt with in the past said that it is in fact a recall and that they have the parts in stock.

Will be talking to the manager to change service advisor's IF I stick with that dealership.

I'd like recommendations for a floor jack.

Not sure if 2T is adequate or if I need to go for a 3T.

What Blue-tooth adapter is recommended for use with Forscan?

12'000 km on the kit now. Both cans had close to nothing in them. All I got was some yellow fluid after wiping the lines, fittings, and the inner can walls. I would suggest avoiding the UPR kit. I added stainless steel wool to both cans and I'll update after 5000 km. If you want something that works better, look at McNally's products.

Sorry to hear that your costly project didn't work out, and thanks for keeping us all posted and informed.

Could it be that Ford have found a way to reduce the oil deposits in the intake manifolds, or UPR have screwed up?

How confident are you that the McNally kit will work?