1004ron

You're not kidding about the flow. I had the same issue with my oil catch nearly not keeping up!

 

I bought a 5 gallon jug of Royal Purple synthetic so i'm in the same boat as you, finding old laundry detergent bottles and a few random 1qt empty bottles

I've only done two oil changes, and I think on the second one I unscrewed the filter and left it on top of its housing and the initial oil flow was not as vigorous - I'll pay attention and confirm next oil change.

A few days ago I added to my existing stock of Mobil-1 and oil filters.

What's your mileage and have you ever had the transmission oil changed/exchanged?

Ford says 150,000 miles in the Owner's Manual (with no time interval), but what do they know? I'm sure their goal in stating such an obviously too long maintenance interval is the premature failure of your vehicle in order to sell you another one and concurrently ruin their durability reputation with consumers.

 

60,000 miles is over maintaining and 30,000 miles is ridiculous.

Do you apply the same logic to the PTU?

Did you break your foot on the brake pedal?

Sounds like Midas are peddling some bad stuff.

It does generate some revenue for Ford and I’m sure a lot of folks would update the OEM maps instead of using Waze or something else.

 

I think they may be having technical issues with the map downloads which they’ve never done before.

I am one of those folks - I have no interest in any third party app, and even if Ford didn't update my OEM maps I'll live with that.

I have a 2017 with Sync3 - I'm in a new subdivision and my road isn't on the map yet.

What does Ford intend regarding updates to my navigation maps?

 

Show me the logs that prove the one you guys installed...

Improves throttle response?

Better boost control after a gearshift, etc.?

Or just makes a difference in how the car performs in general?

 

I am all for modifications, but I like to see data before I make my mind up.

Most likely see a quicker throttle response if you got off the throttle and immediately jabbed it again, but under what driving condition would that happen, can only see it on a stick shift gear change, or trying to impress at the lights with the transmission in Neutral pumping the throttle as seen in the YouTube videos.

So I've heard a few times now that it's a good idea to also change the plastic drain plug from time to time, or at least the o-ring, anyone else doing this on the reg?

https://www.amazon.com/FORD-DRAIN-PLUG-BC3Z-6730-FT4Z-6730/dp/B008Y86L0S/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1515887116&sr=1-2&keywords=ford+oil+drain+plug

I have one on hand - if during an oil change I find it needs replacement I've got it handy, although you should be able to get an O-ring to match from the local AutoZone.

5 months later and a response. I guess it was a difficult question. Kidding aside, if the lower plug drains 3/4 of it out I could suck most the rest of it out. Lower plug is easier to get to.

Seeing as yours doesn't have a lowest point drain like the Sport's do, it would be best to suck out as much as you can after draining from the plug you have.

This post is exactly what I am experiencing with regard to the vent. The drain/refill seems like the best remedy. Any pics and lube spec recommendations?

 

This post is exactly what I am experiencing with regard to the vent. The drain/refill seems like the best remedy. Any pics and lube spec recommendations?

There's an echo in here.

 

I've definitely got a dental pick tool, glad you mentioned that, I'll have it ready for changing the o-ring now, cheers!

Assuming you're thinking of the metal pick tools, I don't use anything like that in fear of scoring the O-ring seating surface - I degrease it and grip it with a sheet of the blue garage paper towel for traction and squeeze it towards one side until it puckers a little, and then its easy to lever it out with a plastic tooth pick or anything like that.

Just hit 12k so I'm finally switching to Mobil 1 full synthetic this weekend. Doing it myself, got a 6 pack of Mobil 1 quarts for $26 on amazon. Throw in another $5 for the filter and I'm looking at $31 for a Mobil 1 oil change, that's tough to beat.

 

Anyways, my first time changing the oil in my Edge, any tips that anyone has to offer? I know they switched to the top mount cartridge style filter and the drain plug is a twist lock design now. I'll put it up on 6" ramp stands so it should be fairly easy.

Just yesterday I stocked up using Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COX0JM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1TO5NU8UU9MH3&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010QU0SPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recently learned from past employed mechanics that Ford does not troubleshoot they are trained to remove and replace the part.

 

Why was he fired, just didn't make the grade or what?

You do have the option of paying an unqualified backyard mechanic for multiple attempts to fix it, or pay the going rate to the dealership for them to really fix it and enjoy the warranty on their parts and workmanship.

I've had mine since March 2017 and have no issues with it so far, but then again I don't use it at all and wished I could have got everything included in my Sport except the roof.

i've found that if you push the mirrors forward (toward the windshield) it opens up a large cavity.. that is where nearly all the water sits after a wash. It drove me crazy for the first few washes but now that i've found it, no issues since!

Thanks, I'll give that a try - if I don't use the compressed air can immediately after the drive through wash, which includes a towel dry, by the time I get home or the next stop the water spots are all over the side of the car, which of course is so much more noticeable on black.

Perhaps something like this which adverties protection against acid rain?

https://www.cilajet.com/

Thanks, I'll look into that before my paint gets etched too bad.

From the first time I waxed my Sport I got a fair amount of wax on the matt black plastic parts.

I use a pencil eraser then "Back to Black" and it would only last max a week, I even tried smooth peanut butter and it performed a little better, then this weekend I tried another internet idea, Magic Erasers.

It took a fair bit of rubbing, and trashed one sponge pad, but the plastic looks as good as new and don't believe I'll need to use creams like "Back to Black".

There's one detailing issue that I wonder if you all also encounter - I now carry a microfibre cloth and can of compressed air in the car, which I use every time I get out the car wash to blow the residual water out of the two side mirrors and wipe off what's dripped from them.

If I don't do this, when I stop some time later the sides are covered in water/soap spots.

I've thought of drilling drain holes on the underside of the mirrors, but too scared.

Anyone else find this?

I use Lexol for cleaning and conditioning the leather, which would be good to apply after using Woolite for the initial cleaning.

Not sure if that would help me - I work at a power plant and at times the moisture fall-out from the smoke stack is quite acidic and I already have what looks like water pock marks.

This product says its chemical resistant, so there's no guarantee that it will protect against acid rain. With words like "resistant" makes the 7 year warranty somewhat meaningless - they have a get-out clause from the get go.

I see the application starts at $300 - what does a car of our size actually cost?

Hi,

 

My 2014 3.5 EDGE SEL with 50K mileage has recently started to give me some whinning noise, when it is driven back from the garage in the morning. That sound is not serious so far, and disappeared after miles of driving.

 

I am thinking of application of lubricant into somewhere on axle. It would be great if you give me some advice.

 

Thanks,

What do you mean by "recently started" vs "when its is driven back from the garage in the morning" - if it appeared right after it was at the garage, you should take it straight back there.

Also, what makes you think of "application of lubricant into somewhere on axle" - did you actually hear the noise coming from the axle? - Is it FWD or AWD, front or rear axle?

Mechanic said he sees this a lot, however not with such low miles (well, I surely hope not). He went ahead and ordered the parts, however, Ford still has to approve the repair (still under warranty and they better approve it).

 

Sorry to hear about your problem.

Is that mechanic at a Ford service centre or an independent?

I haven't read about this type of problem being common with these vehicles, so interested to hear how that mechanic came to believe that.

What Nick was referring to is although there are plenty of manufacturers who have LED headlights, all of them are custom designed assemblies and none use plug-and-play bulbs (like H9, 9012, etc.).

Yeah, I didn't focus on the key word "bulb".

There is a very good reason no manufacturer of any automobile on this planet uses a LED Headlight bulb.

There is a few and it looks like they're getting started.

https://www.autobytel.com/car-buying-guides/features/10-cars-with-led-lights-that-outshine-the-competition-130697/

Sound and control.

I had to do a bit a Googling, and if its main function is "sound", I'll definitely be keeping my money in my pocket.

What "control" is it meant to do?