1004ron

I think people are missing the fact that some of the people posting here with better fuel milage are FWD and not AWD.

They'd also be missing the thread title "2017 Ford Edge Sport Gas Mileage", which I believe are all AWD.

I've had my 2017 Sport since 9 March, 2400 mi, and get 20 to 22 mpg with 80% highway and 20% town driving (light traffic) - no lead foot driving.

 

I reset my No. 1 trip meter every fill-up and the computer mpg is very close to my calculated mpg based on gallons to fill and distance covered.

I'm now at 16K miles and getting a steady 23 mpg, but on occasions , when I wear my lead boots , it drops off sharply.

I'm happy with the performance and consumption.

It has such good low down torque that I could do my complete commute without exceeding 2200 rpm - that's where the tacho sits at 80 mph on the highway - for my regular driving the tach doesn't go past 3000 rpm.

@Beezz are you planning to install another catch can?

I believe that Ford used Low friction rings for better fuel economy, which allows oil to get passed the rings much easier.

 

I think this issue is related to combustion gas passing the rings and pressurizing the crankcase.

I don't know if Ford use special low friction rings, but if they do and these result in increased bypass, it would be less fuel efficient.

I'm keen to hear first hand reviews from our members here, vs others on Youtube who drain quarts from their catch cans after a couple of hundred miles.

It can only be considered "insurance" if its confirmed to meet the claims.

$900 USD is quite high. I forget the exact numbers, but i want to say that i was under $500 including installation. I find that i accumulate more in the winter than in the summer months. Between my wife & i, we don't usually drive like a-holes, so maybe that's why we don't accumulate much. My CX7 2.3L Direct Injection picks up A LOT of blow by & junk, but i tend to drive like an a-hole driving it, but it's 'quick' to me.

Makes you question how some of those YouTube posters collect a pint over a few hundred miles.

 

The UPR kit was 500 usd, and then labour was about 400 usd.

 

12'000 km on the kit now. Both cans had close to nothing in them.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20911-27eb-oil-catch-can-lms-tune/page-3 post 42

I'm not bothering with it after reading that.

Didn't your Google Youtube search come up with existing threads on here?

is it necessary? i've read that even without a tune an oil catch can should be added. i don't know much about the mechanics of it all.. but i hear that the ecoboost should definitely have them installed. Thoughts?

Any chance you could post a link to where you read that?

That one should work well. I would say even to go with the SuperLightweight Shockproof, but that is not Redline approved for our applications. I think a chat with them would be merited to help make your decision if you want to stick with "approved".

Thanks.

I'll stick with the GL-5, seeing as the application isn't really very strenuous.

I have been using the Shockproof in my Harley transmission for many years.

Now to find a pump that fits the smaller opening on the Red Line bottles.

Thanks for all the useful comments.

I decided to order 3 quarts of the Redline GL-5 - is that best suited, or the standard non-GL-5 ?

Took a look under rear end, and as can be seen in the photo of the RDU, I'll most certainly not be pulling the rear cover, but good to hear that 'suck & fill' works well.

One more question, what oil is recommended by the forum members - the owners manual doesn't specify synthetic, so would syn be better or could it cause problems?

I was thinking of using this oil: Royal Purple 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil 01300

Those look like a close replica of the old Bridgestone Potenze RE050's

.

You're right, that is a striking resemblance.

Mostly highway? 30K mile intervals for the PTU/60K for the RDU should be sufficient. Mixed or mostly city, cut that in half. Yes, drain & refill should be sufficient. Drain plug definitely makes it easier to do a complete service in one shot, but not necessary. Use the time to find a reputable shop (non-dealer) that can take the info on this forum and put the plug in for you. I get the nervousness. Having just gotten a new PTU, what to do, right? Keep on a strict fluid change regimen, and find a place to change out the RDU fluid as soon as possible so you can get on a proper schedule.

Is the RDU oil change straight forward - I guess you need to use an oil extractor, or do folks pull the rear cover and replace the gasket?

I've negotiated this price with a 3.5 engine... However, I'm a bit torn. I see many good things about the 2.0 as well

I've never driven an Edge with a 2.0L ecoboost engine, but it just sounds too small for this size vehicle.

$36K for a 3.5L would be a good price if it's brand new.

I'm sure you're only looking for comments on pricing of new 2017 models, is that correct?

New

The price at my local dealership is $36,214

http://www.tricountyford.com/new/Ford/2017-Ford-Edge-6dd310a80a0e0ae8284806094ae8e80b.htm

What engine?

I've been offered a price of 36K for a 2017 titanium with the 301A package and winter package.

Is this a good deal?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Is it new or used?

My new job gave me the iPhone 7 and my iPhone 6s went to my wife.

I've used the 6s and currently the 7 without issues in my 2017 Sport.

If you have HID headlights like I do the DRLs arent used as the high beams. An actuating door opens the projector beams all the way open and thats the high beam. The stock halogen bulbs may use the DRL bulb as the high beam bulb.

I also have the HID's and they are used for high and low beam, and I have the selection for DRL's on or off in the menu, but just cannot get those inboard lamps to come on.

Inside may garage the lights come on in auto, so I took it out into the sunlight and they went off, but no DRL inboard lights switch on.

My turn indicators stay on and change brightness when indicating - could this be the DRL's on my model?

What am I missing here?

I'd also like to get the LED's, but first need to see these inboard lamps turn on.

Edit:

Thanks to @15FireSport

I got my DRL's to turn on - not sure why I couldn't get them to work yesterday, but it was a simple as having it in daylight and gear selected to Drive.

Can i ask the reason to disconnect the ignition coils? I can drive it long enough or let it run long enough to heat it up.

 

I do not have a car cover yet, but im sure i can pick up something cheap.

Is there a specific type of Stabil to use? I have marine stabil that i use on my boat, but i have never had to "winterize" a car per se.

I only disconnect the coils when I store my vehicle because I don't run it for months, and that way when I first crank it , it doesn't fire up allowing it to first build oil pressure and deliver it to all locations before I actually allow it to fire up.

Marine Stabil should be fine - I use this one: https://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-fuel-stabilizer/

https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/top-five-sta-bil-product-myths-debunked/

Get a battery tender that has the capacity to power the alarm if you have one, while also maintaining the battery - if not near a power source the solar tenders work well.

Occasional drives need to be at least 30-minutes in order to evaporate any moisture on the engine and exhaust.

Use a car cover

Pump tires 5 to 10 psi higher than normal

Full tank of gas with Stabil

Oily rag in exhaust tail pipes and air intake

Connect battery tender

Disconnect ignition coils (when you intend starting it, crank it over for a while until the oil pressure light goes off, then connect coils and let it start)

It would be better not to drive it occasionally if the drive wasn't long enough to fully heat up everything.

http://www.atturo.com/dealer-locator/

 

Would like to see there winter tires.

Can't find and tire shops in my area that have the AZ850, and none that I know of that will fit tires you bring in.

Edit: Ken Towery's will fit and balance them for $90 , plus $90 for wheel alignment.

BTW, the KT person I spoke to tried to talk me out of trying the Atturo tires - said the ride would be vastly different, ........ sounded like sales talk more than anything else.

 

Wow thats certainly a lot more than I got out of my p-zeros for sure. I'm not buying them again based on price alone. I know you have been looking at getting some summer performance tires, I just got a set of the Atturo AZ850's in 265/40 21 for just over $500 all in. The reviews of these tires have been very positive. Apparently Atturo focuses on the light truck and SUV/CUV off road and performance market exclusively. For this price point they are certainly worth a shot. I'll let you know what I think once I put a few hundred miles on them.

Roots, based on your review I'd like to try those tires, but can't find them listed with any of my local tire fitment places.

Where did you buy yours?

I was thinking of buying them online and having a tire fitment shop install and balance them, but many of these places wont do that if you didn't buy the tires from them.

PTU oil on special.

$15.11 per quart with discount code "SAVE15" and free shipping on order $50 and above.

This is the Mercon LV deal

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X4AXGCC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry if this has been posted, but all I could find in this section was PTU threads, lots of them.

Where's the Trans oil dip stick and top-up cap on the 2017 Sport ?

My handbook shows to move the air filter intake to the side to access it, but I don't see it on mine.

I'm looking at taking advantage of a good deal running on a pack of 12 quarts Motocraft Mercon LV, and will exchange the trans oil with this when I reach 50 or 60K miles.

Edit: I found it, tucked away under the coolant hose. It would be best to remove the complete air filter box to access it.