DaMiFo

I've actually been using 3D printed brackets for about 3 years now, so far so good as long as you don't crank down the screws too much. That may depend on the filament used as well, but the stuff I used wasn't anything fancy - just the cheap stuff Makerbot sells.

They are no longer capacitive in 2016. However, the switch may still be bad (or stuck somehow). Try pressing it a few times, make sure it's not sticky or anything.

Any time you accelerate from a stop, or at any speed when you are fairly heavy on the throttle. Also whenever slippage is detected, of course. Even if it's in FWD mode, the rear gears are still spinning whenever the car is moving.

You'll need to grab your other key that isn't set as a MyKey (called an Admin Key), then you'll be able to erase all MyKey keys.

The APIM is the SYNC module (Accessory Protocol Interface Module). Unfortunately, the MyFord Touch generation of APIMs are prone to fail. When they're almost done for, a reboot will sometimes temporarily allow them to work. That's why there was the 12M02 warranty extension of 5 years after the vehicle was first bought (so in 2016, you were either JUST outside the warranty date or the dealer tried to screw you). The only way around it, if it's completely dead, is to replace the APIM. Fortunately, the modules are fairly cheap on the used market. You (or an independent shop, if they're willing) can replace the module easily as it's right behind the center screen, then can flash your car's AsBuilt data onto the unit using FORScan and you'll be good to go.

Motorcraft Gold is NOT compatible with Orange/Yellow coolants. I second the post above - if you change coolants, a full (or as close as you can get) drain & fill (most people agree 3 times with running the engine in between) is recommended.

There are TONS of threads on various Ford forums, with everything from walk-through pictures to part numbers. Hint: The 2G Fusion forums have a lot to offer, and they're very similar to this gen Edge. Other Ford forums (like the F-150 forums) are also a great source of knowledge. Once you get the general idea, there's a couple threads around here for Edge-specific things that are needed. Also, there's a VERY slim change that you'll find an APIM that is 100% plug-and-play. You'll have to find the exact same year, trim, and optioned Edge that already has an 8" system. You'll most likely need at least some minor tweaking of the APIM's AsBuilt data.

If you search Google for the part number and/or name of the remote start kit, you'll most likely find the installation manual. Yes, FORScan is free, programming requires at least a free two-month trial license that you can generate.

FORScan will work fine - it's a 3-rd party tool to modify the AsBuilt data (features / vehicle data programming) in all modern Fords. I do strongly recommend you read up on FORScan first rather than diving right in (just because it's a powerful tool, and so many people get too comfortable and cause issues since they don't know what they're really doing). There are plenty of how-to guides and spreadsheets across Ford-related (or Forscan themselves) forums. Good luck!

Sounds like your dealer doesn't know (or care) what they're doing. Dark green and Premium Antifreeze (light green) are not compatible. http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD Motorcraft Yellow Antifreeze-Coolant Backward Compatability.pdf Also here's the newer version of the chart you posted: https://www.motorcraft.com/content/dam/ford-motorcraft/en_us/motorcraft_global/products/lubricants/quick_reference_charts/antifreeze_coolants_english.pdf I'd bring it back and tell the dealer that they used the wrong coolant and they need to drain/fill (even twice, as a single drain/fill doesn't empty the block) so they're not mixing incompatible coolants.

Battery monitoring is standard on all Fords for quite some time now, so yes all 2015+ Edges. It's part of the BCM, not a separate module.

I second omar's suggestion of having the dealer re-check that the windshield is sealed properly. It's definitely a possibility. Happened with our old Escape, they didn't let it cure long enough before road testing it , so we got a noticeable wind blowing sound when on the highway until they replaced it again.

You may have better luck on an Escape forum with this issue. However, my first guess would be that there's an issue with the OCS in the donor seat, either a fault, incompatibility, or just the need to re-calibrate it. Worse case the 2012 airbag may not work in your 2011. Are you scanning with a scanner & program/app that reads all modules on all CAN networks (like FORScan)?

Doing the reset trick can be a bit tricky. I usually have to do the button press 2 or 3 times to get the timing right before the calibration will start and the display will change. Try a few more times. Youtube videos showing exactly what to do were helpful to me as well.

Ford does things that are the best overall decision, not necessarily the best possible decision. By that, I mean when they assemble engines and recommend owners use synthetic-blend oils, it's because that provides satisfactory lubrication but also keep the cost of maintenance low. As several others have said above me, usually full-synthetic is a better choice. ---- Full-synthetic oils usually are better in the "extremes", such as a lot of cold starts, extra heat due to turbocharging, or what qualifies as "harsh" conditions. What matters the absolute most is that you change the oil regularly, and use a good quality oil - Motorcraft branded oils are great quality, and be sure to stay away from the cheap stuff. My buddy has an 08 Focus with 205,000 miles that's had regular 5,000mile oil changes with Motorcraft synth-blend, and the oil analysis recently came back with very good results.

Oh I never claimed the original design was better. Once I run out of my bulk pack I'm still sticking with Motorcraft and the A revision, but for time being I'm glad I have a stock of the old stuff while others find more info about these. The plastic ends to me are (most likely false) peace of mind as it just appears to be stiffer, visually. I know Mustang owners have had some issues with filters collapsing after Ford changed which part to use on their engines (I think the GT350's), so I'm just wary about a change like this.

Looks like a cost cutting measure (again), at least to me. What are the ends made out of now? Is it just compressed paper between the pleats? I'm glad I bought a bulk pack of the original style a few months ago!

ALL modules in modern Fords must be programmed with your specific vehicle's AsBuilt settings (and sometimes a different firmware version) to work 100% properly. Two vehicles may have the same programming if they are the same model, year, trim, options, etc. but it has to be correct either way. Just replacing a module with the same part number guarantees nothing. The programming method (dealer, FORScan, etc.) doesn't matter unless it's something special.

I agree with others here - for the long term, your best bet is to stick with Mercon LV. The trans fluid is not the issue, it's lack of changing it.

Nope. Unless you want to reformat your SYNC module and completely reinstall the system using the "leaked" format tool (which is not Ford-approved of course), map updates are linked to your vehicle's VIN and ESN for SYNC 3. That's why I stick to Google Maps & Waze!

Can get them straight from Ford - $22 USD for 72 hours. https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct

I haven't done an RDU on the 2nd gen Edges, but they're probably fairly close to my '17 Fusion. I just used a fluid extractor to suck out the gear oil, then filled to the leveling hole. Was actually fairly easy. I've seen tons of people say dealers mention things are "not serviceable" or not possible, but that usually means Ford just doesn't tell them to so they don't bother to look/think about it. Changing your fluids is cheap insurance especially if you DIY!

Yes, it's version 3.4 of "SYNC with MyFord" (see comparison here). When you see people talk about SYNC 3 ver 3.3 or 3.4, that's referring to the 8" screens. Your newest version of "SYNC with MyFord" just happens to the same version number as SYNC 3 v3.4. As IcyFridge said, if you enter your VIN with Ford (as you have), just install the file they give you, it's the correct one. If for some reason you download the wrong version from a forum or something, it will give you an error message and it won't install - so that's not something you have to worry about accidentally doing.

Yes, the systems with the 4" screen are completely different versions of SYNC compared to SYNC 3.

I've had v3.4 on my '14 Sport for about 6 months now, haven't found any issues in our generation. Go for it!