DaMiFo

They don't want to replace just the boot because (as you said) it's a messy job and time consuming, when for not much more you get the complete axle shaft assembly already packed with grease and sealed up. If you're doing it yourself, want to save money, and don't mind the additional time & effort, go for the boot only. But if you are paying shop labor, having them assemble it and the "materials and cleanup" costs will most likely make up the cost difference since it's so small anyways. Also, the axle/hub nuts are one-time use and need to be replaced any time they are removed after being torqued down. This is normal for most, if not all manufacturers.

Not sure if it's the same story with the Edge, but way back when I had my '10 Focus SES it did the same thing in park/neutral. I remember the shop manual for that car said it was also normal, and was to protect the exhaust & related emissions equipment from overheating due to lack of airflow when the vehicle is not moving.

Poor choice of words on my part. Maybe I should've used 'average' or 'most common'. But yes the actual use cases are listed in the manual like you said. My point was majority of places (yes, not all) will say 5k miles, and most DIY owners (at least from the forums I am on, myself included) do it every 5k miles as well.

Yup thanks for the correction - sorry I'm in the middle of a project on an older Ford and was thinking of the old method!

The reason you can't change the oil life monitor is because Ford considers it an "Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor". It's not a set time or mileage (well, the maximum of 10k miles or 1yr is), it varies depending on vehicle use. It's not an adjustable variable, it's part of the IPC firmware. The "standard" oil change interval for Ford (not "required" interval) is 5,000 miles. If you just go to any Ford dealer for an oil change, this is what most will print on the sticker, too. Will it hurt if you do 7,500 miles? No. But I always say if you care about your engine and/or plan on keeping your car, just go 5,000 miles between changes. It's cheap insurance.

If you think you have a blown speaker, I suggest you get the speaker fixed rather than disable the ANC system. The system has no extra speakers and uses the regular door speakers. Not true. There are actually several ways to "defeat it". You can de-pin the wires for it from the DSP, you can program it off with IDS (or FORScan of course), or in vehicles that have the full ANC system with noise cancellation, you can disconnect one or all of the microphones to create a fault in the system.

The European Sport is not the same as the North American Sport. In Europe, the Sport was rebadged as the ST-Line (and both have/had 2.0 TDCI engines - and while there were two power options for the engine, there was no real engine upgrade like in NA).

The entire bracket/holder is gone. Are you referring to the radar module in the center of the lower grille?

While I'm on the "I hate front plates" bandwagon too, I would be pretty upset if I spent $40k on a new car and during delivery the salesman said "here's your front plate, you should hurry up and drill into your bumper to get that mounted" instead of just having it done. And since the majority of US states do require them, I understand why they're usually installed. There's far more people who want it done for them than those that don't, especially on an Edge. If it's that big of a deal, there's always the ability to order your own car and tell them to not touch it (with the exception of PDI safety checks) once it's delivered. That's exactly what I did with my Fusion.

There is no way to re-order the list of sources. That is programmed into the firmware and UI. You can only add or remove sources.

Do you have the adapter that fits to the factory wiring? You solder/splice the harness adapter and the radio adapter together, the connect that completed harness in between the radio & vehicle's OEM wiring. Wiring & guide (from Crutchfield - enter your vehicle to get the correct one): https://www.crutchfield.com/p_264MASTER/Crutchfield-Vehicle-specific-Instructions.html

Yes - I recommend checking out Crutchfield. They're a tad higher in cost (nothing crazy), but with the "accessories" (wiring adapters, etc.), instructions & diagrams, and phone/online support they more than make up for it.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/interpretations/9418

Rear fog lamps are not "illegal everywhere in the US". That's far from the truth. Besides, plenty of Audi, Mercedes, and Volvo vehicles are sold with them still equipped for decades. If they were illegal, they would be decontented from North American models. If legality is really what matters to OP in this post, you can easily look up your state's law. If you go with the aftermarket ones that are meant to connect to your tail lights, they often have a dim & bright level. You can usually connect either brightness depending on your use case, preference, or local laws if you intend to use them as rear fog lamps. Back to the initial post tho... You should be able to see which pin in the BCM is for the rear fog light through the North American version of the wiring manual directly through Ford. I did exactly what you want to do on my '17 Fusion Sport. Since the '16 Edge is so similar, I'd bet you'll have to do nearly the same thing as me. Connect one wire to the BCM connector, run it to the back of the car. Connect the lights to a ground in the rear of the car, pop in a European switch, and program the BCM and IPC with FORScan. EDIT: This may be of some help. Overall process is similar, and instead of connecting European tail lights, the new wire goes to the separate lights. Again, not sure if the Edge is similar or not so check wiring diagrams first: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=8347 End result for me:

That's not how traction control works... It's only active if it detects slipping. Same with stability control - it's only active when it detects the vehicle out of control or sliding. As Perblue said, if your MPG's are different in any way, it's a different factor in play here. Personally, I don't see a reason why traction or stability control should be turned off 99% of the time, especially during normal driving in a car like the Edge. It's a "just in case" system - it's almost always inactive, but in the off-chance you have to swerve at 50MPH, that's the only thing between either the rear end slipping out and you rolling the car, or the car applying one rear brake for 0.2 seconds so it straightens out the rear end and you can keep going on your way.

The ACM is not passcode protected like old-school factory units, however you'll need to program the new FCIM (faceplate) with your car's asbuilt data, as well as the APIM to add CD as a source. You'll want to find an ACM that has the same features (with SAT, HD Radio, etc.), and maybe can get away with not programming that.

If you are not driving much, it is completely normal for this generation Edge and Fusion. Either (as posted above) the battery could be going bad due to age, OR after a while the car will enter a "deep sleep" where all modules stop checking-in with eachother to save power. The next time the car is driven for a little while things will adjust and you'll get the full chime again (as you experienced once). If it hasn't gone away right away, your battery may need to charge if the car has been sitting for a while, or (again as posted above) your battery may be on it's way out. Try going for a longer drive to charge up the battery a little more. If you haven't yet experienced it, your backup warning beeps will also come from the instrument cluster rather than the rear speakers too.

Even tho it looks like you found the p/n by now (sorry I just saw this thread now), I had to order both for my Edge when I got it. For future reference, this is what I have and works in my '14 Sport: Back: 1L2Z-78046B76-AAA Front: DT4Z-7813562-AA

The only real way you can mess things up (by just changing asbuilt data) is by being careless. If you're just changing some asbuilt settings, before you even start, MAKE A BACKUP OF THAT MODULE you are working. I cannot stress that enough. Anyways, yes for the most part, things should be the same. The heated/cooled seat icon on the APIM may be different, but I believe that's one of the things that was unchanged in 2019+. There are only minor things here and there that have changed over the years (within the Edge & Fusion platform, at least). Also, simply do one thing at a time (unless specified otherwise), and test after each change. APIM often requires a reboot for some changes to take effect, FYI, so don't worry if something there doesn't appear right away. Good luck, and because I cannot stress rule #1 of FORScan enough since so many people break it, MAKE A BACKUP FIRST and you will be A-OK.

If you want to swap to SYNC 3, if you do it yourself (at least source the parts), it's the same or cheaper than a decent aftermarket double-din unit. The price in the link above is ridiculous (tho some people pay for it). If you want an aftermarket unit, Metra makes a double-din dash kit.

That's a halogen replacement, not something that would ever work in the '11-'14 bumper signature lamps...

That would depend on the type of key (standard blade key, or a keyless / Intelligent Access fob)? Did you lose one of your second keys or are you looking to add a third? Things get a little more expensive if you lost one of the keys.

It would help to know what you are starting with. It's definitely doable, but how much time, money, and effort are you willing to put into the car? The seats shouldn't be too big of a deal. If you don't have memory or even heated seats now, you're looking at a bunch of wiring changes, you'll need to install the switch on the dash, program the APIM if you don't have heated seats already, and some module programming. Ambient lighting would require a load of interior wiring or entire harnesses to be installed into the doors, center console, and under the dash. Plus the trim pieces to accommodate the LEDs. You'll have to programming this feature into the BCM and APIM. The powered liftgate gear would require the wiring in the rear of the car for the new motor, liftgate/trunk module, and switches in the trunk and on the dash. You'll also need new keys with the trunk button. This will require at least programming in the BCM, possible adjustments to the new LTM. If you want push button start, this would require the most work out of everything you listed. You'll need to install the multiple transceivers around the car, replace a few sections of your interior wiring harnesses, program the BCM, IPC, and PCM for the new equipment AND the new keys. Basically, you're looking at pulling out nearly all of the interior of your car and replacing most of the interior wiring harnesses or spending ages running your own wires in addition to the additional hardware. You'll need to either understand something like FORScan or UCDS pretty well, or have to find someone willing to also put in the time to program all of these modules for you (most likely, for a fee). Dealers will not, and can not add these features. If you do decide to go down the route to retrofit any of this, I do wish you good luck!

I've never had good luck with cheap LED bulbs. It's not an issue with your Edge, the bulbs themselves should be turning the white diodes off when the ambers are turned on. Unfortunately you may have to try a different set.

At least in the 2012+ Edges, you can program the new tire sizes with FORScan, then again use FORScan to relearn vehicle data so the PCM picks up the changes. Not sure if that data location is the same on a 2008 tho - won't hurt to make a backup and see how it goes. Site note about the offset - you need the rim width to properly calculate offset. The offset alone is meaningless when comparing different width wheels.