DaMiFo

If you are on car-part, it's easy to sort by part type. Just have to look and be sure you are getting a screen, APIM, or both. If you still want part numbers, check out this thread on 2GFusions with confirmed nav/non-nav APIM part numbers. For a screen, just make sure you get a recess-mount screen. Recess-mount screens, generally found in a: Ford Edge (2011+), Explorer (2011+), F-150 (2013-2014), F-250 (2013+), F-350 (2013+), Flex (2013+), and Taurus (2013+). Lincoln MKS (2013+), MKT (2013+), MKX (2011+)

The screen is the same as long as you get the same mount style. Nav vs Non-Nav doesn't matter.

$22 USD for 72-hour access: https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct

The SP-550 plugs are not meant for the gap to be adjusted - says it right on the box. They are set correct from the factory, anyways.

SP-550 replaces SP-537. If you ever want to verify it, just enter the old part number on Ford's own parts website, they'll almost always redirect you to the p/n that supersedes the part you're searching for.

@Snoking The CD player was removed as a feature on all 2020 Edges.

As others have said, honestly just stuck to good quality oil and change it, you'll be in good shape. You should have peace of mind knowing you're not using cheap oil.

You will need to initialize the camera so it works with the car's other systems. Either a dealer can do this, or you can do it on your own if you are familiar with how to use FORScan.

Wow, there is so much misinformation in this thread... 1) Matthew123: As some others have said here, switching to a synthetic-blend oil is A-OK after using full synthetic. Sure full-synthetic is best, but Motorcraft synth-blend is perfectly fine on your Edge. 5000 mile oil change intervals is also perfect - Ford recommends between 5,000 and 10,000 miles (and often just splits it down the middle and says 7,500 miles to make it easier). Unless you are driving under "severe" conditions, changing your oil far less that 5,000 miles is considered wasteful. Modern oils are more than up to the job for 5,000 miles of daily driving. If you want proof, I have gotten oil analysis done on my '17 Fusion Sport since it was new, as well as my '10 Focus and '14 Edge Sport when they hit their 100,000 mile marks after the oil was used for 5,000 miles (and a lifetime of 5,000 mile OCI's). Both the Focus and Edge have tested well at 5,000 miles on Motorcraft 5w20 synth-blend oils and no noticeable engine wear/materials. And for my Fusion Sport (which runs very hot from factory, and two turbos) does perfectly fine at 5,000 mile OCIs as well (albeit with full-synthetic). Heck, I did a track day with my Fusion last year - I changed the oil before the event, and ran it for 4,000 miles total, and it tested perfectly fine and still very usable. Personally, I say sick with your 5,000 mile changes. 2) The ONLY EcoBoost engines that use both port injection and direct injection are the 2nd gen 3.5L EB, 2nd gen 2.7L EB, and 1.5L 3-cyl EB. The current Edge ST and all 2nd gen Fusion Sports (so, up to 2019) with the 2.7L EcoBoost engine are only direct-injection. EDIT: I started typing this before akirby posted, who is correct. 3) Installing a catch can will not "void your warranty". There is no "voiding your warranty". If you have a catch can and take your car to the dealer for an issue, the most they'll do is say "you modified you car, and that modification affected/caused this issue" and ford will void that warranty claim. That is all that happens, with any mod. If you tune your engine, there is no "voiding your warranty" so suspension issues are no longer covered, for example. As for the catch can topic itself, that is (and will always be) highly debated. There are people on both sides with proof to lean either way. Personally, I've never used one and been OK.

For 2019 only the Titanium and higher comes equipped with a single-disc CD player.

Have you tried making sure the track number is in the song/file metadata? You can either do it through the "file properties" window if you're on a Windows PC, or there are many programs out there that will do this (either manually, such as VLC Media Player) or automatically/in batches. When I tell SYNC to play an album it always plays by track number.

The system will show that popup when you allow SYNC to track/share your vehicle data and location, but it does not see a phone connected to the system via bluetooth. Either have a paired phone with you when you start the car, or disabled the sharing services (such as being able to track & see vehicle info from FordPass).

Green is the older coolant that Ford used. Take a look at this chart: https://parts.ford.com/content/dam/ford-parts/resources/motorcraftpdf/Antifreeze_Coolant_Usage_Chart.pdf You either drain & fill with green, or you have to flush all the green out and then can re-fill with orange. Just do not mix the two. Flushing and switching to orange would be the smartest idea. If you choose, Ford has their VC-1 cooling system flush fluid that you could use for this purpose.

Looks like Ford does not sell loaded front knuckles for your generation Edge - so you'll need to either go aftermarket or get the bearings pressed out/in by a shop. I had to change the front bearings on my Focus, but because I don't have a press either, I just asked the dealer if they could do that if I brought the knuckles down and new bearings, they pressed out/in both front bearings for an hour's worth labor. 1) https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-hub-assembly-7t4z1104a/ 2) https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-front-wheel-bearing-bt4z1215a/ 3 - right) https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-knuckle-bt4z3k185a 3 - left) https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-knuckle-bt4z3k186a

That video is not true. You only disable the BMS if that's how you program the car... If you don't know what you are doing, sure that's when undesirable things happen. But as someone who understands how vehicle systems and communication works, plugging a random device into my car's network is the last thing I would ever do. Having some random programmer send broadcast messages startup is how you confuse the car and have "odd" behaviors - properly disabling the stop/start features via FORScan or UCDS is not the 'wrong way'. Do your research everyone, don't believe what one out-of-touch shop says.

Actually, DOT4 LV fluid has a slightly lower viscosity requirement that DOT5.1. However, it's still very close, you should be fine. I'd stick with DOT4 LV myself, tho.

Have you looked into any of the Fusion Sport's intakes to work with? That seems like it would be a much closer fit than something for the 3.5 in the F-150. But to add to what Xtra said, the Fusion Sports have the exact same issue. Over there, a few users have actually gone to great lengths to test and datalog the available CAI offerings but they all performed worse than the stock air box once engine temps increased. It's also been shown (again, at least in the Fusion Sports) that the stock air box itself is more than capable of holding up with tunes, and any other bolt-on mods, and that the weak spot is only the little snorkel bit that connects the box to the grille.

As far as Ford is concerned, Sport was put on the back of normal models that just had bigger engines, stiffer suspension, and some appearance tweaks (like the gen 1.5 Edge). ST is "meant for track / sport use and tuned by Ford Performance". It was more exclusive when it was the Focus & Fiesta, then the two SUVs got moved onto the ST badge bandwagon, so the "special-ness" just seems to have followed. As the proud owner of a '17 Fusion Sport, yeah it is annoying that people look at it differently but you get over it after a little while, lol.

Seems to be one of the PCV hoses. Have you taken the jacket off the hose to look for a part number? Ford prints, labels, or molds the part number somewhere on every single part. Does the hose easily disconnect now? If it's secured on there and there's not a check engine light, sucking noise, lack of power, or rough idle you're fine. If it easily comes off now, you should order a new one.

If you have IDS to play around with, I suggest you read up on how it and Ford's systems work, and how to read what it's telling you (not to sound rude, it's just that IDS is a lot more than a basic scan tool). It's also realistically made to work in conjunction with Ford's other systems, so a lot of what it tells you to refer to requires access to their online manuals/guides. The majority of DTCs do not set any lights or alerts on the instrument cluster. Even for ones that do, they only trigger a light/alert when the car "confirms" the issue. An indeterminate issue is not yet "confirmed" so it won't warn the driver. Uxxxx codes are communication codes. The number after the main code (in this case, :96) is just as important as the rest of of the DTC So in your case, U2002:96 on ABS = there was some sort of internal or unknown fault within the parking brake switch that caused it to lose communication to the rest of the network... In your case, you unplugged it. So nothing to worry about.

Unfortunately leaky oil pans are a fairly common issue on the 2.7 EB - many on the Fusion Sport forums are having the issues (as well as the F-150 owners), so it's not just an Edge Sport issue. As akirby said, a LOT of dealer techs just don't follow the proper procedure. Some instructions state a minimum of 4-hours is needed for the RTV to cure before even putting oil back into the engine/pan. I'm sure many techs just don't pay attention and don't seal things well, too. I also recommend you try another dealer, or ask the SA if they're actually following the procedure for this issue. Last, I'm sure the dealer is aware by now but it still has to be said - make sure they are replacing the pan every time it comes off the engine! Interesting to see that the newer 2.7's have a regular gasket tho.

Thanks! For some reason that didn't even cross my mind to check there this time...

As Perblue mentioned, I'd check to make sure the rims aren't bent, and that the tires are balanced and have no flat spots or something. When I bought my '14 Sport used they straightened all 4 rims as they were very slightly bent. Somewhat easy to happen due to how heavy and wide these rims are, riding on such low profile tires on very heavy car. Sport 22's also make inconsistencies with the wheels much more prominent. Does the car actually shake, or just make sounds like something is rattling/shaking? Maybe a stupid question but I have to ask - are you 100% sure they're bolted on flush to the hub, and were they torqued evenly?

If you press/turn off the Replay button, will it change display to hide the RW/Pause/FF buttons in place for the row of presets shows up?

Do you have regular halogen headlights or the factory HIDs? I tried a few solutions on my Sport, and the only thing that I found made a noticeable increase in light light was an HID kit (I went with a nice Morimoto kit). I know most people are against doing this (me included) but I just had to make an exception in this car. 2 years later, much very worth it. If you go that route, don't cheap out and just spend the money on a good kit from the beginning.