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This no worky.....tried with a Schwaben extractor on my ‘16 Sport and got very little oil to come out....maybe due to the plastic waffle design of the pan? Dunno, maybe I was doing it wrong.....

There is precut vinyl that will fit that area perfectly. I put one on mine 2yrs ago. Away from home so I cant give you the specifics, but a search of the interweb will find it.

Could be a clogged heater core.....general car guidance here, but if you can locate the 2 (usually 5/8”) hoses that come out of the firewall, they connect to the heater core in the dash. One hose is the “in” and one is the “out”...both hoses should be warm or slightly hot when the engine is up to temperature....if only 1 is hot, and the other cold, then your heater core is clogged.

That’s a bummer.....I try to avoid dealership visits whenever possible as you’ve read, but happy you got it back working.

Update.... Was ready to throw in the towel and go to the dealer when I found a small pair of curved suture scissors laying around. One more try...... Used them instead of the 3.5mm flathead screwdriver to pry into the area that most likely would open the hatch and eureka, it worked! The upward curve of the scissors provided just enough of a correct angle to catch the latch and open it. Numerous attempts with the flat blade screwdriver were useless. Then I had to disconnect the negative lead to the battery for 5 minutes to reset the computer and get the tailgate to function properly. In hindsight, I should have just disconnected the negative lead first before trying to manually unlock the tailgate, duh! Still don’t know what caused the tailgate to stop functioning in the first place, maybe the battery? Will have to monitor. Thanks again everyone.

Thanks PerfA for posting the instructions. I was able to find the cinch button. It is located inside a small circular opening (not mentioned in the instructions) of the inner tailgate metal panel, barely visible once the access cover is removed. To see it, you first have to remove the cargo floor in order to make room for your head to get lower than the access opening then look up to the left inside the access opening. The cinch button doesn’t stay depressed once you let go of it, but should it? Dunno. Moving on, I can’t find exactly, and the instructions don’t tell you, where inside the opening to insert the 3.5mm flathead at a 45 deg angle to slide a latch (?) or anything 5mm to the left. I’ve had 2 friends attempt this, we all have failed. Inside the access cover is now all marred up from probing everywhere with screwdrivers in an effort to open the tailgate. I can just hear Ford try to deny the warranty for customer tampering with the tailgate. It’s ridiculous that there is no release cable or some easier way to do this. Thankfully I was not stuck on the side of the road with a flat with this inoperable tailgate holding my spare tire hostage. Maybe they will let me watch the Ford tech do this procedure when I go to the dealer, but probably not. Thanks to all again!

Agreed, it could still be the battery, if so, I’ll let the dealership replace under warranty if they deem necessary. Could also be the latch, but it is automatically latched closed with no way to manually unlatch so don’t know if the latch is the culprit. I did find the video you posted above yesterday, thanks for that, but mine is a 2016, which is not the same year as is in the video. So the design has changed. I can definitively tell you once the access panel is removed, there is no latch to be seen or felt, unless it is somewhere behind the metal panel with the torx screw that I see, but I really doubt it. I see no way to remove that panel. Maybe someone with a 2016 can look at their access panel to confirm? Thanks again akirby.

Disconnecting the negative lead on the battery didn’t do squat, so I’m thinking it’s a bad tailgate motor. If anyone else wants to throw a rope to a drowning man before I go under and see the great dealership in the sky, lol, I’ll take any suggestions. At least I’m still under warranty. I’ll be sure to report back with the fix. Thanks to all who’ve helped so far, much appreciated!

Thanks.....I don’t have a voltage tester but if everything else on the car works I doubt the battery is the culprit. You may be onto something with the bad lift motor however. I can’t open the tailgate so can’t check the gear sound. But, I’ve never forced/closed the tailgate manually ever, so there should be no damage to the gears. I will try disconnecting the negative battery now and see what happens. Thanks again.

So still no luck with the tailgate.......verified fuse 76 is OK by swapping with a known good 30A fuse, then drove for 25 miles to recharge battery just in case it had an issue. Also, the only thing I see in that little space behind the access cover was a torx screw. There is no latch or cinch button. Removing the torx screw didn’t look like it would lead to anything plus I didn’t have the correct size torx bit so I didn’t do it. I see a regrettable dealership visit in my future.......

Thanks for the reply. I didn’t verify CCA’s, only that it is a 2016 with only 4300 miles and everything else works as it should. Maybe the battery is dying early? I will look for that cinch button but I did explore the space behind the cover pretty well the first time and didn’t see anything, maybe I missed it.

Have the power liftgate, cannot get it to open using the following methods: -wave my foot under the bumper while holding key fob -press the unlock tailgate button on remote 2X -press the dash button for the tailgate The only thing that happens when I do the above is the hazard lights flash 2X, which I believe normal. I crawled into the back, popped the little cover in the center of the tailgate to look for a manual latch and there is nothing in there. Disabled then reenabled power liftgate function through the menu, nothing. Anything I am missing? TIA

That looks great! I also was not a fan of how far the aftermarket hitches hang below the bumper. My 2016 is lowered w/H&R springs, so the hitch would have been even lower, approximately 7” above the ground. I would have no fear of cutting the bumper just like you did. Please post any tips, details you care to share and then I’ll decide if I want to go that route. TIA!

Yup

Just completely remove the Edge exhaust bezels and bracketry, no cutting required. The tips are from my old 2013 M3 that I had lying around - one tip fits over the Edge exhaust pipe while the other “dummy” tip is welded to it. No difference in sound.

Here is mine

Exhaust shrouds need to be removed for quad M3 tips

Did that already. Paperwork from that appointment states both wiper arms and both wiper motors were replaced. There is no way they replaced the broken motor at that appointment because wipers haven't been used since that motor was "replaced".

Anyone else have this? 2016 Sport. To top it off, this wiper motor was replaced according to my paperwork 2 months and 300 mi ago. Car has been in storage since then, so never bothered to see if it was replaced, never had occasion to use wipers either. Noticed movement in the mount when I was washing car yesterday. I'm sure the dealer will blame it on me when I go in next week.

Nice! Would match my 2010 Raptor.......funny thing though, I remember back in 2010 a lot of folks hated the Raptor grill and were looking for replacement grill options.

Hope that Explorer came with a CO detector!

2016 Edge Sport - only get the smell under hard acceleration when in recirculation mode which is typical of the TSB. Dealer fix is to remove rear bumper and rear spoiler then epoxy all the seams plus reprogram PCM to turn off recirculation automatically for 10 secs after hard acceleration. Anyone done it yet and if so, happy?

The entire plastic mount, including screw bosses, metal clips, etc is removed as an entire assembly with no cutting required. Just have to crawl under there and you'll see the screws that hold it in place. It is a tight area to work though. But because there is no cutting required, you can save the shroud mounting assembly in case you want to revert back to stock.

H&R springs

M3 tips