Waldo

Looks like a nice aftermarket system, but I doubt you'll ever get sync to work.

What's the frontal area of the trailer? Anything more than 40sqft would be too much with that weight.

But that just proves the point. If the assembly is the same weight, but the wheel is forged, then it must mean that all that weight is at the outside, further away from the wheel center. That means it will require more energy to get the wheel spinning, even if it's the same weight. But the rolling resistance difference between tires is likely to make far more difference than the weight of the wheels anyway.

There's more to trailer towing than engine cooling. The 22in tires are probably not up for the extra load. Heavy load + low profile tires = blowouts.

I'm pretty sure Ford doesn't stop "paying for fixes" because they don't beleive this particular dealer can fix it, not because they don't beleive it's an issue. Try another dealer, I suspect Ford would be more than happy to pay another dealer to fix the problem correctly.

It's all about the software, you can update an 08 to the same level as a 10, though it won't have the GPS function for 911 assist.

On top of what akirby mentioned, the AWD uses a separate control module which isn't likely pre-wired. Plus the suspension and stability control are tuned differently for an AWD, so if you want it to handle correctly you'll need new springs, shocks and stabilizer bars. And yes you will need to change out the entire transmission or at least the cover and parts associated with the installation of the PTU and linkshaft. And all that work just for worse fuel economy? Doesn't seem like a good idea to me. As for the other stuff, Ford doesn't generally "pre-wire" anything. They separate the options into bundles so that they can make 4 or 5 different wiring harnesses. So all SE likely get the same harness, so if fog lights and Nav weren't available on the SE, the wires won't be there.

No, you'd need to change the RCCM, the SPDJB, the DSM, DZM, RCM, the steering column, the cluster and even then the rear windshield wiper likely wouldn't work. It would actually be far easier to put the 2010 fascias and lights on a 2011 then to put the 2011 electrical stuff into a 2010!

It's not just the stuff you see, the ENTIRE electrical architecture is different. Not just different wires and buttons, but different networking protocol. You would have to change every electrical module in the vehicle, from the PCM to the ABS to the airbag controller and so on.

Not for me thanks. There are a few times when it is useful to be able to use the brakes and throttle simultaneously, primarily for performance driving, but also for hill-starts and cleaning the brakes from rust after the car has sat for a while.

The guy in jail was driving a 96 Camry, a car that has a mechanical throttle linkage and is not part of ANY of the recalls. That story is just the media jumping on the bandwagon. Bad engineering causes sudden acceleration, bad (panicking, poor training) driving causes the deaths.

Yes the kit will be vehicle specific. Every car has a different suspension design, different bolts sizes and different alignment specs. Don't wait a month to get an alignment. Your toe will almost certainly be off after lowering, likely enough to cause significant tire wear in a month. But it's sort of true that springs "settle", so ideally you'd do a second alignment a month later to dial it in.

Short answer - Ford designs alignment adjustability to cover the range you need at factory ride height, beyond that you may run out of adjustment. An alignment kit offers a greater range of adjustment. Long answer - the alignment of a suspension changes as it moves up and down. Generally a suspension will be designed so that wheels gain negative camber as they go up and the wheels toe in as they go up. This is to increase stability and grip while cornering. So what it means is whenever you lower the car, the camber will go more negative and you'll get more toe-in at curb height. This has nothing to do with the springs themselves, it's purely the geometry of the suspension. Since you don't want to increase tire wear, you want to offset that gain in camber and toe to be closer to the original factory settings. Now on most cars toe is pretty adjustable, there should be plenty of adjustment to cover the effect of lowering. But camber adjustment is very limited. IIRC the Edge doesn't have any camber adjustment in the front and only a limited amount in the rear. So depending on a lot of things, like build variation, bushing compliance and any damage/wear on the vehicle, you may not be able to adjust the camber far enough to get it back to a normal setting after lowering. This is where a kit can help, it can increase the range of adjustment available. But usually it comes with the trade-off of clamp load on the bolts. Usually to get the greater adjustment you end up with smaller bolts that can't hold as much torque. That's not likely to result in a catastophic failure where suspension pieces fall off the car, but it can mean the bolts will slip either with a good bump or slowly over time, such that you'll have to check the alignment more often.

So you want to replace the Pioneer unit in your car with another Pioneer unit? What do you expect to gain?

Door sheetmetal is expensive, VERY expensive. Since Ford didn't change the door sheetmetal on the 2011 redesign, they couldn't easily slap in the new black-out keypad. Same thing happened with the 2010 MKZ.

the driver just lifts off the gas and everything is fine.

Easy entry is the movement of the seat when you open the door, has nothing to do with the lights. The shop manual says the "Perimeter lighting mode" is configurable in the SJB, which means the dealer might be able to do it in the same way they can turn on/off DRLs. But it's not something you can do without their computer.

It's a totally new electrical system. I'd count on a lot of bugs.

No chance. The USB is part of SYNC, the screen is part of the Nav system. There is no physical connection between the two so you can never pass data from the USB to the Nav system. You might be able to do something with the backup camera input, but then you'd only be able to watch your DVD while driving in reverse.

The 3.7L that's coming for the Edge is not the same as the current engine. It's a TiVCT not an iVCT, which means it has all it's cams adjustable, not just the exhaust. So technically the 3.7L is a newer engine than the 3.5L Ecoboost, though clearly not as "badass".

Just wait until you try to turn on the defroster without taking off your gloves. Hopefully the voice control will understand "Brrrrrrr"

If it's a 2010, it will already have the latest update. The only thing you could negotiate is a future update when it becomes available.

As bbf states, your dealer is totally wrong. Tell them to open up the service manual and look it up, the procedure is explained right there.

You're right that it is usually the high beams that are used for DRLs, but on many of tofay's projector lamp designs, the high and low are the same thing. From the 2008 Edge service manual: "When the DRL is active, the SJB provides a pulse-width modulated (PWM) voltage to the low beam headlamps. This illuminates the headlamps at a reduced intensity." DRLs aren't trying to "throw" light forward, the point isn't to send light in front, it's to illuminate the source. In the 20 years since Canada implemented the DRL law, I've never seen any car that turned on the street/parking/tail/marker lights. The law says headlamps only are required.

Actually the hard drive is 40GB, but 30 of it is reserved for the Nav and Gracenotes database, leaving 10 available for the Jukebox. The database is updated with a DVD that you must purchase, but once the DVD "downloads" it's content to the hard drive, you can throw away the disc. There is no separate DVD slot for the Nav disc like in the system on the 2008.