Cerberus

Exactly PTU suffers massive heat soak in 2.7L applications from the rear catalytic converter and turbo. Currently driving with my RDU torque coupling clutch unplugged which should equate to zero load on the PTU, but fluid temp is still well above trans fluid temp when driving around town.

One way to reduce the cruise control braking on downhill is to accelerate a bit above your cruise set point, then just coast and you'll notice less braking to bring you back down to the set number

zero disagreement from me!

cancel / resume button would make that pretty easy.

Well as an example, my 2011 fusion sport did not use brakes to slow down, it would downshift the transmission and use engine braking

not the first or likely the last time i've been wrong.. 🤣 i would bet there is a way to turn it off by adjusting a value with forscan.. but i don't know which one where. I do know there was a lot of overlap with the F150 forscan settings so that might be an avenue to research it, through those forums or obviously on the forscan site directly

if you turn off the adaptive cruise it should go to stupid cruise mode, which should not use brakes to decelerate if going above the cruise set point

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logic is your friend

I have not replaced mine yet, but I got the one I have for the job off of ebay, it is a used unit harvested from a wreck or something, sticker numbers all match the unit in my ride. It took a while to find it on ebay, but it was cheap. Like less than 200. And when I pulled the fill plug, it had only the slightest film of magnetic dust sludge on it, so I'm optimistic about it's condition. Just waiting for the weather to cool off a bit before I do the job.

Engines are air pumps, so improving flow is a big part of the game. Specifically more free flowing exhaust and induction, BOV can be helpful if it is opening prematurely due to weak spring (supposedly an issue on some ) , upgraded intercooler is an option but likely delivers small return on investment as compared to a tune from Livernois.

agreed on all!

you may be right, but i would not want to have to battle it out in court with either a dealership or the manufacturer, whether or not the modification caused engine failure. I mean, i know a catch can won't cause an engine failure, but lawyers are expensive as heck..

that act only applies to who services the vehicle (maintenance or repairs) and invalidation of factory (manufacturer's) warranty. does not apply to modifications or 3rd party warranties.

Oof. 3k sounds high.. but maybe that's just me

Mercon V & Mercon LV are entirely different specs.. or else Ford would not have created the different name.. (unless possibly just as a money grab?) So a fluid that sites both specs is automatically suspect in my book.

Kendall Versatrans LV is specifically licensed to be in compliance with the spec my Trans requires. For whatever that is worth.. I buy it by the case of quarts, do not recall the price

so i unplugged the electrical connector to the RDU and suddenly its silent. I'll take that as a temporary win Went for a ride for ~20 miles and noticed the PTU temperature is absolutely not any cooler than before, maintaining about a 10 degree bump above te transmission fluid temperature, which suggests that (as I suspected) the majority of the heat load that the PTU deals with is radiant from the rear catalyst, not from frictional heat. also, the 170 thermostat keeps the engine coolant (and also the average head temperature) around 15 degrees cooler without any special tune modification. Granted i was not in gridlock, but i was doing some stop and go traffic after the highway run.

definite RDU is in self destruct mode. leave it unplugged to preserve it as long as possible. I just finally unplugged mine today and its amazing how much quieter it is. In hind sight, i wish i wrapped the loose electrical connector in silicone grease inside a bag to protect it. Next weekend perhaps.

So I went ahead and unplugged mine this morning, just to reduce the urgency of the swap. Surprising how much quieter it is now lol

many tensioners have a lock out feature that will not let it retract without depressing a little lever. or not retract at all in some cases. retract the tensioner or get a new one if necessary, and use the new chain. Pictures to illustrate the problem help too

I mean, it's not a fix for the problem per se, but it should greatly slow the deterioration of the RDU into a RUD (SpaceX shorthand for rapid unscheduled disassembly)

Just a thought, but it occurred to me to disconnect the electrical connector at the RDU to prevent the computer from having the clutch ramp in. This should minimize wear if you have to drive it.

My opinion, as someone in the business, is that the right thing to do is change everything that you have to disrupt while you are there for the pump. Particularly at that kind of mileage. I can't say on an estimate.

the PTU bolts to the right side output of the transaxle between the output splined socket and the (shorter) CV shaft that sends power to the right front wheel. . if you wanted to make it FWD only, you could do so by just dropping the driveshaft out. You could also remove the RDU if you really want to, but it may be unnecessary unless it grenades on you.. or go all the way and also remove the PTU and install the longer CV shaft from a FWD model. This last option is likely unnecessary unless the PTU is confirmed as a source of impending failure noises Lots of options