Cerberus

interesting observation; i did my oil, ATF and PTU fluids about a month ago at ~45k miles. I fully expected the PTU fluid to be black and sludgy like it was on my 2011 Fusion Sport AWD at 59,000, but it came out Very Clean. unbelievably so. My guess is that the clutching system in the RDU that engages the power transfer to the rear diff on demand only, also significantly reduces the load on the PTU (and thus the fluid) except when said clutch is engaged. This is encouraging since they got a very bad rep in my book by calling the PTU on my 2011 Fusion Sport AWD a "lifetime fill" yet the fluid that came out when i did mine (around 65k) was more sludge than fluid.. That and the internal water pump that required dropping the drivetrain out to replace.. but that's another story for another time anyway, thought this might be interesting to others, it was to me

but the 2.7 does have an oil cooler other different applications and it appears there is a block off plate.. Do you know if anyone has tried mounting an OEM cooler to the rear head where the block off plate is? or is it impossible to make it fit?

regarding this question, i can't say for everyone for absolute certain but it seems my 2016 at least does not have the engine oil cooler, although the head is machined for it, and there appears to be a block off plate installed. to that point, i want to install an engine oil cooler maybe, but the clearance in that spot is pretty tight because there are two computers on the shock tower directly adjacent to where the eng oil cooler would be if it were installed, and since i don't want to buy one off of Ebay just to find out the dimensions of it, then find out it can't fit because its too big.. i'm kind of stuck. so the question i'd ask (sorry for the hi-jack) is, 'Can we add an OEM type oil cooler to the 2016 edge sport, or will it simply not fit in the space available?' IIRC some lincoln models have the same drivetrain and have the oil cooler.. and i would think, the same clearance, though i've not been under the hood of any to verify.. Anyone?

everything i have read says to fill it until the fluid pours back out the fill hole. should be about 700ml from what i remember reading. not sure how that translates to ozs

from what i've heard, around 80-100K is the right time. For the sake of discussion i had a 2011 Fusion Sport (same engine design flaw) and my 3rd party warranty company boned me, so after my pump failed and milked up the oil and the dealership tried very hard to blow it up, i ended up having to buy a lift and a used engine, doing a quick refresh on it, installing it, then selling the car and lift so i could get out of it without losing all the value in the car and still paying the note. Good times. (Avoid Ownershield warranties like the plague they are) short version, better to do it too early than wait too long and have an oil/coolant intermix cause bigger problems.. Delco (of all companies) makes a steel impeller pump as opposed to the ford plastic impeller, and, i have one, although I don't know if it is the version you need. (I bought the single row chain version accidentally first). I do not suggest you try to save money on the water pump or timing components! Wrong place to cheap out. I also have 2 gallons of specialty green coolant that i do not need...

Ah. I remember the same name from the Fusion forums. Anyway, i checked the powerflow diagrams and found the TCC is not engaged in 3rd, only 4th and above

You are a tech, yes?

ok.. i have to ask.. why? are you saying 3rd uses a locked torque converter? or a switched state stator? If it was doing this in every gear, in a normal trans, i'd agree fwiw, it is under warranty (CPO + add-on from dealer) but i don't want it to fail on a road trip or something so i pay close attention to my machines

So i bought a 2016 Edge Sport AWD in Sept 19. Fun ride for sure, but i noticed when it shifts to 3rd the RPMs don't drop fully when it goes to 3rd if i'm @~ 25% throttle. Engine sound corresponds with tach indication so its not just a sensing or indication problem. The RPMs drop a lot less when going to 3rd than when going to first & second (or 4th for that matter), and after it goes to 3rd, it holds that rpm point as road speed increases which tells me it slipping. Just before it reaches the point where it should shift to 4th, it finally catches 3rd fully (revs drops slightly), then revs slightly higher with the continued increase of road speed, then drops fully to 4th. I dropped it to a dealer who said they could not replicate it. I showed up and took the tech for a drive, fully describing the problem and what he would see before launch. Then i replicated the problem. The tech conceded that he saw what i saw but said its normal. (I'm a mechanic, don't jerk me around asshole) I told him, no, it is not normal. I understand it is not slipping enough to throw a code, but that code parameter can be written out of a flash update.. i want it documented that you witnessed the problem and agree that it will likely cause a failure. He agreed to my face but amended the write up to say that he witnessed a problem but finished with 'no problem found at this time'... So anyway, Just wondering if anyone else has had issues with these transmissions blowing up? Pretty sure its a 6F55 iirc, and the fluid is not good looking so i'm planning a dump & fill series in the next week or two along with a PTU drain & fill. BTW i tried a vacuum drain tube through the dipstick hole and was only able to get about a quart out so thats a waste of time.. for future reference

just a quick weigh in on the cartridge filter, the best choice in my experience is to loosen the 'cap' / filter holder until the seals are free so the air lock is broken, then go underneath to drain the pan, plug it again, and go back up top to remove the filter and replace it. this allows the filter housing to drain and as much of the oil in as possible to drain as well. I'd like to see Purolator make a BOSS filter for this application.. i've used them exclusively (Pure One before that) with Mobil 1 for years in whatever I own.

I had a similar problem with slotted rotors on my old 2011 Fusion sport. I figured out that it was the slotting of the rotor that was causing the noise, it sounded somewhat like a bad wheel bearing or flat spotted tire but only while on the brakes. Don't be surprised if the new ones do the same thing..