Cerberus

..but his alternator is not making mid 14s..

I like the service log and level of detail that is saved. very nice. The only argument i could offer to the warranty expiration / renewal is that these things are a bit of a PITA to work on due to how stuffed the engine bay is. but if you're handy and have the facility to do work as you obviously do, its probably an arguable waste of money

I have not. I've never had the need to, but I'd guess its a bit tricky to get it there. finding appropriate lifting and holding points was a bit of a PITA for me

charging voltage definitely sounds a little on the low side. Are you testing the voltage with every electrical accessory on? I don't know which options you have on your sport, but with the heated and air conditioned seats, mine's a 200A unit.. ..which i just replaced because the clutch pulley on the nose was freewheeling. however, that does not account for the 6V in the morning. That is like 99% sure to be a parasitic draw, which could be anything from a bad module to a stuck relay use that link 1004ron posted above and figure out where it is

I have the J&L and have to empty it every couple months, particularly in cooler weather which helps the vapors condense in the CC whether it is necessary..? that's a harder thing to answer. I'd say its a good thing for keeping some garbage out of the intake tract

for what its worth, a lot of supposed cold weather type washer fluid will freeze long before its supposed it..

I suppose I should close out this story with a conclusion. I ended up hunting down my UPS truck while it was in a neighborhood nearby, got my alternator and did the job in my driveway. Kind of a PITA on jackstands, but very doable. I basically had the job done in 4 hours flat, aside from hunting down my R134a gauge set and vacuum pump, pumping down the system, and refilling it. All is well, and I am reminded how much fun this car can be. I am considering buying a high mileage warranty for it.

the vehicle was supposedly CPO but i was sold a 3rd party warranty that I was told would cover it an extra 2 yeas and 20,000 miles. Turns out that was a lie as it was a 7 year/120,000mile warranty that was effectively redundant to the CPO coverage from my purchase up to the end of 7 years. Yes, it covers more stuff than the CPO but I really only was interested in powertrain coverage. That makes it pretty annoying. oh well, i'm done discussing it. no point in rehashing it too much.

The day before yesterday, i finally hunted down the UPS guy and got my Alternator, left work early yesterday and dove into the job. Its definitely a PITA job, primarily because I was working on jack stands and a lift would have definitely made it easier. I basically got it done in 4 hours but spent another 2 finding my gauge set, vacuum pump, cans of R134a and doing the evac / refill One interesting thing; the alternator itself was fine, but the overrun clutch was freewheeling, so it could not drive the rotor to generate power. I'm debating whether I should return it for the core charge or put a new overrun clutch on it, and put it on the shelf for future uses

It is a common phenomenon that the generated heat in an engine will cause coolant temperatures to briefly climb after shut down. Given the proximity to the rear turbo and Catalytic converter, I expect the same type of thing would happen in the PTU, especially since the cessation of airflow after shut down. In my data logging on my 16 sport, I've seen PTU fluid temperatures north of 275°F, so the extra coolant circulation time is likely intended to offload a little more heat without excessive load on the battery reserve power. It's possible that the computer uses a temperature measurement to determine whether or not to run the pump, or for how long.

granted some extended warranties do work this way, but not all do. AFAIK. Here's the thing, I bought the vehicle as a CPO (supposedly) which offered 7yrs/100,000miles coverage. then he sold me an ISD warranty for 7 years and 120,000 miles, backdated to in service date, which means it was redundant up to the 100K mark.. IF in fact it actually was a CPO.. I am starting to think they tricked me into buying my own CPO coverage.. Meanwhile he was representing it to me as extending my warranty by a couple years and 20,000 miles I have not found ONE dealership yet in my life that I would recommend doing business with .

Well its story time boys and girls. Back in 2021 I brought my ride to Ted Russell Ford Knoxville TN for a brake hose recall, diagnosis of a long soft shift 2>3, rear end noise, and idle stumble after fueling. They did they brake hoses, replaced the purge valve and claimed they could not reproduce the other complaints (even though the graph that they gave me showed a shift lag of over 1600ms..) Also my sunroof and even the inside shade no longer moved at all.. and they put over 500 miles on it.. whats worse is when i went to replace my RDU fluid last summer I found there was effectively no fluid in it. There was also a stain on the right side RDU output seal as though it had leaked there, which i washed off all evidence of with brake clean. I filled and drove, then siphoned the RDU a few times, cleaning the magnetic fill plug each time, and seeing less and less metal on it each time (while i bought a new RDU off eBay) But here's the funny part; the RDU has never leaked at all from that seal that had a stain. This leads me to believe they pumped the diff out so it would grenade, and put a stain on the output flange area to explain the "loss of fluid". The reason I think this is that if the diff was actually leaking there would be more leakage happening at the flange, but it is dry. And if it was empty with no leaks the RDU would have grenaded long before the 60,000 mile mark that it was at when they had their filthy hands on it. The rear end noise ended up being the rear wheel bearings. I posted about that before. Two weeks ago yesterday, my alternator announced its departure from this world and I scrambled to drive it home after work with no lights, no wipers (thank you RainX) and no defogger to keep the windshield clear. I made it home, and the next morning had the vehicle towed to a dealership because I thought I had a warranty. Come to find out, AutoFair Ford of Manchester New Hampshire screwed me by backdating the warranty effective date to the original date of purchase which was THREE YEARS before I bought it. I did not notice this at the time or else I would not have bought it. (they also mis-mounted two tires that they put on the car when i bought it, so the outboard sidewall said "Inboard"...) Moving on.. The local stealership, Lance Cunningham Ford of Knoxville TN "diagnosed" the problem which I had already diagnosed and even stated on the key envelope when I dropped it off. They wanted $1600 to replace the alternator, $800 of which was the part itself. Funny how I can (and ultimately did) order the part needed for $400 from Rock Auto.. so I said no, I'll pick it up. They went ahead and charged me $300 for the "diagnosis" including a $41 miscellaneous shop supplies charge. I asked the guy, what supplies did you use? He said, Oh that's just an automatic charge. I said yeah, I know, you ought to call it a fuck you charge, because fuck you if you don't like it. At this point I had already ordered parts including belt and tensioner with 2nd day air shipping for $200 less than Lance Cunningham wanted for the alternator alone. Cue the record breaking snow fall (9" here in Eastern TN) and extremely cold temperature wave which created horrible driving conditions and subsequent shipping backlogs since there are literally almost no plows down here in the south.. and my projected package delivery dates have been getting bumped back over and over. This past week, we have had several days of nearly 60 degrees here and a ton of rain so the snow is all gone now, and this morning would have been a perfect time to dive into the job, if I had parts. That's a big if.. as I do not have parts.. Interestingly, my front window camera caught a UPS truck race down my street and turn around at the dead end and rocket off again on both Thursday and Friday, without dropping any packages on the street. This happened on days that I had received emails saying the package was on the truck for delivery today.. so the bastard came down my street and left without delivering a single package, even though it was supposedly onboard. So I called UPS (India) this morning (Sat) to ask where is my package? I mean, if it is anywhere within a two hour drive of me, I'll come get it.. but that is not an option because it is apparently on the truck and they don't run on saturday, so I am just screwed. Again. The weather is expected to drop back below freezing again tomorrow and I'm already out a pile of money for rentals for the last two weeks so I can continue to get to work. In the end, this fiasco will have cost me more than the $1600 the local stealership wanted, but screw them for screwing me. Its the principle of the matter now. So yeah, AVOID AutoFair Ford of Manchester NH, AVOID Ted Russell Ford of Knoxville TN, & AVOID Lance Cunningham Ford of Knoxville TN Now what to do with my weekend?

We used Liquid Moly in the shop (fleet service) for a little while, but no longer do. I don't recall there being any problem it, it was just a question of product availability and pricing iirc. I tend toward the belief that money spent on the lubrication and filtration products used in your vehicle is an investment in reliability.. but it can be a gamble too, if they are over hyped and sub standard. Not saying that is the case here, just a thought. LiquidMoly is not an additive, it is a brand of oil

Thanks, and sorry, my mistake, I forgot to tag you, and apparently mixed you up with Nick in my memory of the post i read.

Bueller?

So my Alternator is smoked. I diagnosed it, but sent it to the dealer because I thought I had a warranty in place. However, the dealer who sold me the vehicle, sold me an 84mo/120,000mile plan which back dated the coverage to date of original purchase and zero miles... I am pretty annoyed by that, but that is not the point here. The dealership where I live now (not the same place) wants $1600 to do the job, to which i said a hearty F*ck that. Parts are on the way. Has anyone here done the job? (Omar? I remember you said yours went bad) Does it have to be done the way the manual suggests? I do have the ford service manual extract pages for this job which talks about dropping the A/C compressor, Comp bracket, belt tensioner, and then the Alt. My question is, do I need to open the system? I have a vacuum pump so its not a huge deal but I'd rather not if I don't have to Also, I was quoted 3.6 hours to do the job which seems high, but I don't have any labor time resources to check with to verify. All constructive input welcome

So if the current Edge ST has the wet belt driven pump and only direct injection without port injectors to keep the valves clean, or any other of the Gen2 benefits, thats a double (plus) reason to say f*** that noise as far as I am concerned. That means this thread has served the purpose I hoped it would, it talked me out of buying a 2024 Edge ST. Regarding the long term reliability of the wet belt driven oil pump system, I stand by my position on that, it's GD stupid. I've been walking this earth for over 5 decades and have had a fervent interest in all things mechanical & technical for over 4 of those decades.. One of the things i have learned in that time is that when something offers a benefit of any kind (like reduced price or drive harmonics or rotating mass from using a belt), it almost always comes at a price, like longevity or strength. To be clear, I don't have a problem with belts driving things, but a belt that runs in oil.. i'd probably only trust that if it were a steel link toothed belt with rubber overlay for harmonics, because at least then when it sheers the rubber off, the pump could still operate, just loudly enough to be an obvious indicator. A little quick research has shown me that many people have similar concerns, including the NHTSA https://www.thedrive.com/news/self-clogging-ford-oil-pumps-lead-feds-to-investigate-1-0-liter-ecoboost-engines Thanks all for the conversation. ☮️

Ironically, I suddenly have a charging problem with mine. I had a battery saver warning on the console yesterday which i stupidly ignored.. Then last night as I was getting ready to drive home from work, i had the same warning, so I checked the app data which showed the battery at 30% and running system voltage at 12.1V.. OOPS! I took a new battery off the shelf and limped it home with no lights, wipers, defog, radio, etc. rolled into the driveway with the battery state reading 3% and system voltage at 11.7.. ? Now I need to figure out WTF is going on here

Not sure if that question is pointed at me, but it's not a question of comprehension over here, it's a question of trusting the information as being factual. For instance, you're saying the Gen1 2.7 are also getting the belt driven oil pump too, is the first time I've heard that, as I understood that to be a Gen2 problem exclusively. And no, even with proper maintenance, they will not run forever. A wet belt is the most moronic design flaw since the water pump driven by the timing Chain, in a vehicle that does not allow removal of the front cover without dropping the entire drivetrain, as was the case with my 2011 fusion sport.

Right, but Wikipedia is not always accurate. That's often my first stop for information, but rarely my last stop on the search for complete and accurate information

Officially, there is no preventive measure and only walnut shell blasting to remove deposits after they accumulate . Personally, (not a recommendation for liability reassons) I might fog the intake with a product designed to clean valves at every oil change to keep deposits from forming. Also, I thought about buying one of those trick cold air up pipes from IC to TB with an auxiliary bung in it for methanol, and use that.

I'd by far prefer carbon build up on valves over a wet belt driven oil pump. Carbon on valves is slow, progressive, tolerable, avoidable and relatively easily fixable, whereas oil pump drive failure is sudden, and terminal. Thanks for the personal experience

This is contradicting what I'd been led to believe. Now I want to visit a dealership and see if I can visually verify that it is only direct injected. Thank you for the information, this shakes up the whole equation.

Umm... Based on what? I was under the impression that after 2018 the Gen 2 2.7 was being used throughout the brand. This is a primary sticking point for me because the Gen2 engine uses a wet (oil exposed) belt to drive the oil pump, which gives me serious concerns about the reliability of the oil system.

I'm not in a huge hurry to trade mine in, it's a great car, performs well, fun to drive, and a perfect size for the roads I drive every day while still being big enough to accommodate my fat ass. Alternatively I have considered buying a boneyard engine and refreshing it so it's ready to drop in if the need arises.. I even got a quote from Carmax to buy it if I wanted to downgrade for a while to cut overhead. Just weighing all options