Cerberus

I absolutely planned on a test drive, probably a long overnight test drive.

if i trade in my 16 Sport (even money) i'd end up with the same payments I'm making now, but lose a couple features of the 16.. But I'm at 102K miles and nearing the end of my 3rd party extended warranty, so maybe its getting to be that time. Welcoming thoughts and opinions on the trade offs of this transaction. I do have concerns about the wet belt driven oil pump... but thats every 2.7 since abt 2018 AFAIK.. and I'll probably add on an extended warranty to the new one to cover that potential problem.

The only repair I would trust in your situation is a new(used) engine. I had a 2011 Fusion Sport with the same engine, same problem with water pump failure milked the oil. I bought a boneyard engine (after leak down testing it) for $400, replaced the pump with a Delco metal impeller style, all new chains and guides etc for another $300, swapped it into the car, and it was good to go. I drove it for a month and sold it to CarMax for a grand more than I owed on it. The collection of symptoms you are dealing with, while difficult to definitively diagnose with the information given, do not bode well for the future of that engine.

I hate to be the one who tells you this, but it sounds like your mechanic has screwed you sideways. I don't know what legal recourse you have, but I'd find out if i were you.

Booster linkage/pushrod was one of the things I mentioned as suspect in my first response to this thread. 10mm is a LOT to loosen the MC nuts and drive around.. that does not sound safe.

yeah.. that's what i figured.. Thanks for the confirmation

this is interesting information. i have a page extract here that says something different, although it is a from a 2015 fordtechservice.dealerconnection . com 2.7 ecoboost specifications pdf it specifies 30psi minimum oil pressure @ 1500 rpm with engine at normal operating temperature One of the interesting take-aways from your reference Haz, is that the oil pressure control solenoid when disconnected, drives oil pump output up from baseline by 8psi Soo... what if it was just disconnected and left that way? I suspect it might annoy the computer, but would it de-rate the operation?

2.9 pounds of oil pressure, even for a moment, would make me very uncomfortable! I know that might sound like an alarmist point of view, but it's fairly important. There can obviously be a debate as to how low is too low, especially over a duration of time.. but given my experience, I'd much rather have too much oil pressure if there is such a thing, than not enough.

Paging Ford2504x4, paging Ford2504x4..?

not for nothing, but the difference between the two is so insignificant that I personally would not waste your time.. unless your PTU leaks, it won't matter. If it does leak, it will leak slightly faster since the 80 weight is slightly less viscous when at full temperature. however, as an observation, my 2016 Sport model uses 75w-140, but the PTU is right next to the rear catalytic converter and close to the rear turbo, so the ambient heat load is pretty high in the summer. I don't know what you're driving or whether this issue is relevant for you.

just as an illustration, i reset most if not all gauges min/max halfway to work. Oil pressure still dropped to around 10psi, which is not the end of the world, but I don't like it.

misspelling aside, I appreciate the information, but I have already employed several mods to the ABD including the t/s quick tap, seat belt warning, key out of running vehicle beep and shift lock in absence of the key (police mode) My interest is about adding another fob when you only have one.. which may or may not be possible without IDS subscription, which is cost prohibitive for a single use..

T/S quick tap flash number is easy, but the key fob issue will require a dealership visit or a purchase of hardware and subscription of service to access. At least thats what I've read over and over. If i'm wrong, let me know.. I lost one keyless push to start fob on a flight some time ago and would love to be able to program a spare too..

Everything else shows zero because I did not reset the min/max on them. I did reset the min/max on the oil press after startup. Cold idle, it's around 27psi and solid. At temperature, it flickers as I described before. This value is not a percentage.

Granted this happened while coming to a stop or turning/ accelerating from a stop, but that yellow arrow head at around 7psi oil pressure is not something I can easily ignore. I dont think an oil pressure sensor is to blame.

This is using OBDII data by OBDLink Bluetooth dongle. I have this "dashboard" of gauges that I use to monitor various relevant parameters by my phone

For those who like to monitor data from their drivetrain, I have a question regarding oil pressure. At idle with the engine fully at temp, I see oil pressure fluctuations from 17-26 psi, for no apparent reason. Now, I know the pump has some variable geometry system which allows for different oil pressure (or flow rate?) basically on demand, but I don't like seeing so much variability in the pressure at idle. It still makes over 80psi when the loud pedal is on the floor, so I think the pump is probably fine, but I'm still curious if this is a common thing or possibly an indication of something wrong.

so, out of left field.. you mentioned once that when you opened a bleeder, it did not spurt fluid and the brakes did not release. The only way this can happen is if the caliper piston cannot retract any further OR the pads are too thick OR the rotors are too thick. This is how it can happen; you replace parts that for whatever reason are not within proper spec, so there is JUST enough air gap to get the pads & caliper onto the rotor But once you drive it, the rotors get warm and grow, pushing out on the pads which have no where to go because the caliper is fully compressed already. Its a long shot, and not probable, but thats the only thing that makes any kind of sense with the data given.

The only real downsides to using trans fluid are that trans fluid does not have the same film strength, sheer stability or viscosity.., but if you're going to keep on it for maintenance, it will not be a problem. Probably. Just know that a leak will empty it much faster than it would with OEM fluid, and the grease that was in there (dried up gear lube) had more lubricity to it than the film left behind by transmission fluid if it leaked out. the right side seal should be monitored closely. I'm curious how this will turn out. Keeps us updated?

That would be a rotor glowing faintly red against a pitch black back drop, with the wheel blocking parts of the view

brand new parts, dead on arrival, is a growing phenomenon. not sure why. maybe they were counterfeit parts, maybe covid lockdown-era built. glad it is sorted.

very unlikely.

Also, which wheel are you calling number 3? Not everyone knows the correct sequence so it's worth asking

Swap #3 wheel with any other wheel on the vehicle (preferably 1 or 2) and see if the problem follows the wheel(sensor) or the location

https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/ this is the tool i use to monitor data streams from various systems on my 16 Sport. assuming (which i hate to do) things are the same between mine and yours, transmission fluid temperature and PTU fluid temps are easy to monitor, RDU has no sensor, just a coil to engage the driveshaft to the rear axle and 6 qts of fluid may be way too much for the transmission for a drain and fill..