Tribby2001

In my 2010 I installed a K&N cold air intake and noticed the throttle response improved. The engine accelerates with very little delay now. I don't experience the lag when I step on it. It is louder and creates an aggressive "woooof" when accelerating to make a highway pass on a two lane road for example. I'm happy to just increase the throttle response and I feel better that I can pass more quickly on rural two lane highways.

I have had WeatherTech in all my cars. I simply like them because of their looks - classy. They have served us well. I do prefer carpeting so when the threat of snow and the road salt season passes I switch them out to 3D MAXpider Classic Carpet Floor Mats. They are similar in coverage as WeatherTech Floorliners. However, I don't see them available for 2015 and up Edge.

...Bringing a fossil back to life... Had the same problem in my 2010 Ltd. Front passenger window would power down but not up. Neither driver or passenger side switch would power it back up. Thanks to this thread I replaced the driver's side master switch [ 8L1Z-14529-AA (SW-7242) $56 ] and all is well Thanks!

I emailed the OP and he replied stating these calipers are SOLD.

I installed mid-level DLS speakers in my Premium 6CD (no NAV) many years ago and they are the best sounding car speakers I have ever heard driven only by a stock HU. Hard to find as they are a Swedish company. But there are U.S. dealers if you search around. Worth looking for as their mid-level speakers are competitively priced. http://dlsaudio.us/home/caraudio

I corroborated 70.6mm with an eBay seller. Thanks.

I found the Offset is +44 Centerbore/Hub size diameter is 70.6mm http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19753-2010-oe-18-wheel-offset/?p=146216

I think I found it! Part# 8T431007CB Offset = +44 Can anyone confirm the 2010's Centerbore/Hub size diameter: 70.5 or 70.6mm?

Does anyone know what is the OE chrome clad 18x7.5 wheel offset and hub size for a 2010 Edge AWD Limited? What is the Ford wheel part# (1007?)

I am shopping for new aftermarket 18" wheels for my 2010 AWD Edge Limited with O.E. 18x7.5J" wheels. I need to order Hub Centric Rings but I have not been able to verify the Center Bore diameter in the User Manual or in the Workshop Manual. However, I have seen posts here and elsewhere stating it is 70.5mm(?) and 70.6mm(?). Does anyone know with certainty what is the 2010's Center Bore diameter? I would also like to know what is the O.E. 18x7.5 Wheel Offset? Thanks!

Thanks! The only thing I did to the sub box was to enlarge the subwoofer hole diameter. I was going to use an electric scroll saw but its trigger malfunctioned. It's very old lol. So instead I used a router and simply followed the trace I had marked. I think it works better than a saw - like buttuh. I used a ½" thick custom made PVC spacer ring to mount the sub on. I did that so I would not need to butcher the sub box by the mounting tab. Instead I trimmed the spacer ring, with a file and sander, so that it fit over the top of the protrusion of the tab. I didn't want to destroy the sealed integrity of the box by cutting into that tab area. (See photo in my previous post.) Yes, I used about 6 Oz of nylon fiberfill I had on hand from a previous speaker project. I also sprayed the entire exterior of the sub box with 3M rubberized undercoating/soundproofing spray as well as the body of the Edge immediately behind the sub box as you can see in the photos posted earlier. Well, I previously posted my depth measurement at 5" from the face of the sub box. However, the box is irregularly tapered in the back so it may be less depending on the sub you intend to place in there. The sub I mounted in the box, and pictured in my previous post, is the CDT HD-1000CF http://cdtaudio.com/sep_components/subwoofers/hd1000cf.htm Spec sheet http://cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-1000CF.pdf

Completed: Other than the 10" subwoofer and sub amp the audio system is stock:

FYI- Expensive High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) glue PPX5 Adhesive Kit http://www.iplasticsupply.com/materials/adhesives-and-cleaners/ http://newswire.net/newsroom/pr/00083187-hdpe-sheet-bonding-the-unbondable.html I think I'll try J-B Weld's PlasticWeld epoxy first :-)

UPDATE: Upgrading subwoofer on a Premium Sound System II in my 2010 Edge Limited. I ended up purchasing a Rockford-Fosgate PBR300X1 subwoofer amp for more power: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pbr300x1 It is small and will easily screw into the same location as where the OE sub amp was on the rear of the OE sub box. Needed a Radio Shack reed relay, part# 275-0232: https://www.radioshack.com/products/spst1a-5vreed-rly?variant=5717505029 You will need this relay to convert the OE head unit's 6Vdc sub amp enable signal to 12Vdc for aftermarket amps. See below wiring diagram or click> http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1159436-factory-subwoofer-upgrade-7.html#post13251877 Using very affordable custom ½" spacer rings made by http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com (Send them an email with your specs.) I will enlarge the OE sub box hole and trim a small part of the custom spacer ring to allow it to fit the encroached sub box mounting tab. In the enlarged hole I will mount a 10" CDT HD-1000CF subwoofer: http://cdtaudio.com/sep_components/subwoofers/hd1000cf.htm After the sub box cutout enlargement is completed it's a simple matter to mount everything, tie a bow on it, and enjoy some real low end. ______________________________________________________ OE Subwoofer Wiring Harness Info: Pin 1 [Violet/Red] Sub Amp Enable +6Vdc (hot when your audio head unit is turned on. ) Pin 2 [black/Yellow] Ground ⏚ Pin 5 [brown/Red] Power +12Vdc (hot when ignition key is in accessory position.) Pin 7 [Violet/Green] Sub Signal + (low level audio) Pin 8 [Green/White] Sub Signal - (low level audio) ______________________________________________________ Sub Enable Reed Relay Wiring Diagram:

3M 03584 Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating and Sound-proofing http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61ypq2wgP3L._SL1500_.jpg

Without the part#'s from your sub system components it's impossible for me to determine what it is. Anyway, I received all the parts for mine. Now just need the motivation.

That is a sub-amp (part# 8A5T-18C808-AB) mounted on the rear of the factory sub-box (part# 9T4T-18C804-AA) in my 2010 Edge Limited w/Premium 6CD (no NAV) Audio System. It isn't a "DSP". AFAIK - I only know of a DSP shown in the service manual for the Lincoln MKX w/THX sound system.

I don't thnk my broken piece is available separately. It's part of a larger part that would have to be replaced. Part# 7T4Z78044D70AE Charcoal for my light stone interior.

The curver plastic bezel above my Tachometer, Speedometer, Temp and Fuel gauge broke off from it's four plastic attachment points. It is cosmetically fine. It is simply no longer physically secured to the dash panel. Does anyone know what type of plastic glue would securely bond to this plastic?

I'm gonna try this. Damn that plastic mounting tab

What did you determine? Is the Premium head unit's (Audio Control Module) subwoofer output (before the sub's amp) a high level speaker signal, a low level audio signal or something else? I would like to replace the Ford OE Sub Amp and Subwoofer but keep the OE box. Are you saying the sub signal from the ACM is unusable?

As I posted in your other thread: http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150online.com-vbulletin/800x549/picture_php_pictureid_159482_ff3e7b44983df9ce539d23aa72d5e3f5f307fede.jpg

Not sure I understand your question. But, I would guess that you could use the mono signal before the OEM sub amp to feed an aftermarket mono sub amp. The following is the same wiring diagram as in my 2010 Edge Service Manual: http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150online.com-vbulletin/800x549/picture_php_pictureid_159482_ff3e7b44983df9ce539d23aa72d5e3f5f307fede.jpg

I did a search for my 2010 Edge Limited AWD (6CD, No NAV, w/Sync) sub amp's part num. (8A5T-18C808-AB) and found a post in another forum that stated: Subwoofer Amp "10-11 amps X ~12 volts = 120-150 watts" - Don't know how accurate it is but seems feasible. I just opened up my OEM subwoofer to find an appropriate driver replacement. For the benefit of future passersbys, I measured the sub box (9T4T-18C804-AA) volume to be 13.7 liters or 0.48 cubic foot in volume. The box's subwoofer cut-out diameter is 7¼" and the max. sub depth is 5" in my sub box (there may be other sub box versions that are shallower). The subwoofer (6U5T-18808-UA) itself has dual 1.3Ω impedence voice coils. It's overall diameter is 8⅜" and is 3½" deep. I'm going to try to fit a 8" Kicker 40CWRT81 (fits) or 10" Kicker 40CWRT101 (box needs to be modified) which are the only subs I could find with dual 1Ω impedance voice coils to match with the OEM sub amp. I know this is not the ideal but it's cheap!

The "Limited" has SYNC so yes, I have GPS. The "Limited" has a Premium 9 speaker system. That should be all I need to get started with an OEM NAV unit. I found a couple of web sites that sell OEM NAV unit kits, new or refurbished - 4Dtech and OEMautopartsco Seems legit but they are asking almost $2K!