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Rear Motor Mount (RMM) (2016 Edge Sport)

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6 hours ago, ituhata said:

Do you guys know if the bolts on the motor mount need to be tightened to specific torque values, and do we use blue loctite?

 

Do not use locktite and torque Specs are embossed on the CPe RMM

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I got my motor mount in today. The instructions look way scarier than "just two bolts" ....rocking the engine back and forth? -_- 

 

And why do I need to disconnect the battery? 

inst1.jpg

inst2.jpg

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On 1/5/2019 at 4:40 PM, ituhata said:

I got my motor mount in today. The instructions look way scarier than "just two bolts" ....rocking the engine back and forth? -_- 

 

And why do I need to disconnect the battery? 

inst1.jpg

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It's much less effort than what it appears on the instructions. Some simple processes when put into words turns into a dissertation.

Its literally as simple as:

Jack up the car

Unbolt the 2 retaining bolts

Install the new RMM, correct side down, embossed Specs facing down, also you might need to slightly rock the motor Fwd or back by hand simply to achieve bolt alignment since that mount is what controls that rocking direction.

Torque bolts to the Spec embossed on RMM and your done.

Still verify my input with the instructions incase something was updated.

Disconnecting the battery is a standard safety practice enforced by most dealerships.?

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I got it installed today. The change in NVH feels very subtle. If you hadn't told me that they swapped the RMM's out I might not have noticed for a while.

 

EDIT: Lol, I take that back. I definitely would have noticed by the second time I got in. It is a rather clear difference, but other than the steering wheel, if you're not dogging it the rest of the cabin feels acceptably normal. 

 

However, I definitely can feel the engine at idle through the steering wheel, and things have tightened from the gas pedal to the tires. There are other things that feel different too, but I'e only drove it for a few miles afterwards so right now it's hard to put into words how the car feels other than to say it's simply better overall. 

 

 

Edited by ituhata
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I have the 60 Duro RMM in my Edge and although it has stopped wheel hop in first gear upon launch . I still have wheel hop with the second gear shift. 

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Rather than making a new thread I thought I'd bump this one. 

 

Has anyone tried filling the OEM motor mount with 3M window sealant or the like? Is the front motor mount too difficult to get at? In other FWD-based AWD platforms the front mount is usually the first to be replaced. I can tell the engine/drivetrain shifts back and forth a lot and could benefit from better mounts, however, its not a race care and is supposed to be a comfortable, quiet daily driver. 

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1 hour ago, boostededge said:

Rather than making a new thread I thought I'd bump this one. 

 

Has anyone tried filling the OEM motor mount with 3M window sealant or the like? Is the front motor mount too difficult to get at? In other FWD-based AWD platforms the front mount is usually the first to be replaced. I can tell the engine/drivetrain shifts back and forth a lot and could benefit from better mounts, however, its not a race care and is supposed to be a comfortable, quiet daily driver. 

 

No one on FEF that we're aware of and if you did you'd first have to ID the Duro rating of the stock bushing and use an equivalent or else your wasting your time & money.

 

The front mount is fine for stock & so far for up to 500 whp and resonably easy to access for your average gear head.

 

So if your not interested in giving your Edge an Edge and the stock mounts are proving fine with higher performance then I'm not getting your concern...:banghead:

Edited by snmjim
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1 hour ago, snmjim said:

 

No one on FEF that we're aware of and if you did you'd first have to ID the Duro rating of the stock bushing and use an equivalent or else your wasting your time & money.

 

The front mount is fine for stock & so far for up to 500 whp and resonably easy to access for your average gear head.

 

So if your not interested in giving your Edge an Edge and the stock mounts are proving fine with higher performance then I'm not getting your concern...:banghead:

 

For example on the Evo replacing the rear mount causes more NVH than replacing the front mount, so majority just go with the front mount and OEM rear/sides unless race car.

 

Filling the OEM mount comes from the DSM crowd where filling with $10 of urethane was cheaper than buying an aftermarket mount but was also a good trade-off of NVH vs the aftermarket mounts higher durometer rating. Trying to have your cake and eat it too with stiffer bushings and NVH is often not possible, I understand.

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6 hours ago, boostededge said:

 

For example on the Evo replacing the rear mount causes more NVH than replacing the front mount, so majority just go with the front mount and OEM rear/sides unless race car.

 

Filling the OEM mount comes from the DSM crowd where filling with $10 of urethane was cheaper than buying an aftermarket mount but was also a good trade-off of NVH vs the aftermarket mounts higher durometer rating. Trying to have your cake and eat it too with stiffer bushings and NVH is often not possible, I understand.

 

It has been done. I don't think that I have seen it mentioned on this forum.  Peeps have done it on the fusion forum. The Fusion and Edge have a lot in common including the engine mounts. If you are interested in casual reading on filling the stock mount with poly, point your browser in this direction....

 

http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4&highlight=rear+motor+mount

 

More than a few people have done it and done it with varying degrees of success, comfort, and usability etc.  everyone that has done it says that it is beneficial.  The ironic thing is that people stopped experimenting with it once CP-e and other manufacturers started mass producing them.

 

Enjoy. 

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I just installed my CPE RMM today. Install was super easy and took maybe 45 minutes. Would have been quicker if I wasn’t stupid and kept trying to put the bolt back in the same side which made no sense. also my torque wrench I guess was broken, I torques the 15mm bolt probably way past 85 ft lbs but oh well, I know at least it isn’t coming loose. 
 

NVH at idle is noticeable but minimal. I will say the CPE piece is nicely made and overall a nice addition 

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Just curious for anyone else with the CPE RMM but did you have loud cabin noise at first? Vibration isn’t bad but the noise pitch is awful. I only have 10 miles and know it should reduce as they say drive a few hundred miles but curious how much it softens up noise wise 

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I think it softenes up a bit...but maybe you just get used to it lol

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1 hour ago, THE_BOLT said:

I think it softenes up a bit...but maybe you just get used to it lol

 

Don't expect much of the capartment vibration to ease up with a bushing Duro of 70. 

When we initially worked with CPe to develope this RMM it was concluded during our R&D that 60 Duro would be the best street performance Duro and for some reason when CPe moved south from Maryland they dropped the 60 Duro bushing and went with a one Duro for both the Fusion & Edge.

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I don’t know if it makes a difference but they say it’s 65 now for both. It’s just weird cause the vibration isn’t bad in the cabin but the noise I don’t know if I can get used to it it doesn’t lighten up after a few hundred miles
 

Would there be any big difference going with the UP RMM that is 60?

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20 minutes ago, 97novi2k said:

I don’t know if it makes a difference but they say it’s 65 now for both. It’s just weird cause the vibration isn’t bad in the cabin but the noise I don’t know if I can get used to it it doesn’t lighten up after a few hundred miles
 

Would there be any big difference going with the UP RMM that is 60?

 

That's what many have resorted to and are happy.

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5 hours ago, 97novi2k said:

I don’t know if it makes a difference but they say it’s 65 now for both. It’s just weird cause the vibration isn’t bad in the cabin but the noise I don’t know if I can get used to it it doesn’t lighten up after a few hundred miles
 

Would there be any big difference going with the UP RMM that is 60?

 

Would it be possible to record the noise that you are experiencing?  I've read some reviews that stated a "hum" sound. I don't think that I have ever seen it described as "noise". Is it a drone type sound?  If its not sweet music coming from the engine bay or nice exhaust note.  I think we can all agree that we don't need any extra noises from our edges.

 

I understand that sound/ noise is subjective and everyone's threshold is different, but this noise sounds if its in the unacceptable category. Hopefully it becomes tolerable after you put some miles on her.

 

This review is the most in-depth review that, I have come across that compares the CPE and UP rear motor mounts.  It sounds/ feels like the 60 Duro UP RMM may be the answer. (no pun intended) Granted he says that he feels as if his cp-e mount is 70 Duro. That would account the significant difference he experienced between the two.

 

CP-E vs UP RMM
 

HTH

Edited by onyxbfly

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On a different note, but on the same topic. I reached out to cp-e last year and inquired about a custom 60 Duro. They said they do not have any plans for it, but they may in the future. I wonder if enough people inquired about it if it would motivate them. 

 

The cp-e mount looks like it should cost what they're asking for it. The UP mount is all business, function before form. Simply put the UP mount is not aesthetically pleasing. But as long as the UP mount does the job it shouldn't matter what it looks like because the only time one sees it is when you change fluids or tinker.

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Thank you this is all very helpful and you are right it’s not a noise but really a “hum” that I hear and it’s pretty substantial. That review link was perfect so thank you. I will probably order the UP one and do a review on here. I think Special should update the main thread to change the duro ratings of each to what they are now. Here it shows the CPE as less. 

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I made a quick attempt at changing the rear mount yesterday (up mount, came with no instructions). I could not break the 21mm bolt loose with an impact and I didn’t have a breaker bar with me. I assumed I had the car on too much of an angle, applying too much thrust on the mount, holding the bolt in place. Should I be jacking the engine up for the rear mount swap? I’ve read through this thread and a lot of people have given advice. Some say it’s quick and easy, some say you need to do certain additional things. Is it possible to do this on ramps, maybe just partially up the ramp to get enough clearance to slide underneath the car, but not enough to force the engine to rock to such a severe angle? I really don’t like crawling under a car supported by a jack. Especially after experiencing hydraulic failure of a jack a few years ago. Cylinder failed while I was turning around to grab a jack stand.  

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On 6/11/2022 at 10:10 AM, McToberson said:

I made a quick attempt at changing the rear mount yesterday (up mount, came with no instructions). I could not break the 21mm bolt loose with an impact and I didn’t have a breaker bar with me. I assumed I had the car on too much of an angle, applying too much thrust on the mount, holding the bolt in place. Should I be jacking the engine up for the rear mount swap? I’ve read through this thread and a lot of people have given advice. Some say it’s quick and easy, some say you need to do certain additional things. Is it possible to do this on ramps, maybe just partially up the ramp to get enough clearance to slide underneath the car, but not enough to force the engine to rock to such a severe angle? I really don’t like crawling under a car supported by a jack. Especially after experiencing hydraulic failure of a jack a few years ago. Cylinder failed while I was turning around to grab a jack stand.  

 

Good luck, I broke my bolt doing mine, not even a 1" impact would move it. Best advice I've seen is a huge cheater bar, pipe on ratchet, on a good quality breaker bar and keep slowly moving it back and forth. It would suck to do on ramps, a lift is definitely best. The ones who seem to say it's easy are 2018 and younger models, on the 2019 and up they seem to have dipped almost the whole bolt in lock tight. ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS WITH A JACK!

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7 hours ago, Perblue said:

 

Good luck, I broke my bolt doing mine, not even a 1" impact would move it. Best advice I've seen is a huge cheater bar, pipe on ratchet, on a good quality breaker bar and keep slowly moving it back and forth. It would suck to do on ramps, a lift is definitely best. The ones who seem to say it's easy are 2018 and younger models, on the 2019 and up they seem to have dipped almost the whole bolt in lock tight. ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS WITH A JACK!

Thanks for the heads up about the excessive loctite, I had a feeling that was the case.  Do you know which color Loctite they used? Hopefully not red. Yes, I always use jack stands if I'm using a jack, I still have a hard time trusting them, too, lol. How did you extract the bolt after you broke it? With that much loctite, I assume you had to drill and tap? 

Edited by McToberson

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On 6/12/2022 at 10:26 PM, McToberson said:

Thanks for the heads up about the excessive loctite, I had a feeling that was the case.  Do you know which color Loctite they used? Hopefully not red. Yes, I always use jack stands if I'm using a jack, I still have a hard time trusting them, too, lol. How did you extract the bolt after you broke it? With that much loctite, I assume you had to drill and tap? 

 

Lots of Blue Loctite. I ended up using a milwalkee diamond tipped tile holesaw on a corded drill, with very very frequent dips in oil and steady mild pressure, too much knocks the diamonds off. I tried every type of bit and every one either dulled fast or broke off.

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Wow, that's crazy!  I ended up changing mine out a few days ago.  I used a 1/2" breaker bar.. 1/4 turn counter clockwise, 1/8 turn clockwise... took a while but I didn't want to sheer the head off... yes.. bathed in blue loctite.. holy shit that bolt was long.. 🤣 

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