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mQbiZkit

Charging issues...

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Ok I have a 2011 Edge Sport 2WD

 

The display has been throughly out the battery saver on the display. Got the battery checked and they said it was ok and to look into the charging system. So I went ahead and replaced the Alternator last night. I put the battery on a charger to get the charge up on the battery for the initial start up. 
Now when I start the car up there is no battery saver on the display but I’ve noticed all the lights flicker then brighten and dim when the RPM’s raise and lower. Could this be a bad battery now? what else am I missing 

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If the battery is more than 3 years old just replace it.

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That’s just it the battery is less than 6 months old. Not sure how long the Alternator has been out. I’m afraid it’s been running off just the battery.

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1 hour ago, mQbiZkit said:

That’s just it the battery is less than 6 months old. Not sure how long the Alternator has been out. I’m afraid it’s been running off just the battery.

Did you forget to mention the new battery?

 

Did you install a new alternator or a "remanufactured" one - I ask because they are notoriously unreliable.

 

Just changing parts out without any diagnostics might have cost you a few $'s unnecessary.

 

Most places like Autozone will load test the battery and the alternator in the car.

 

If you have a digital multimeter we could walk you through a few diagnostic tests.

Edited by 1004ron
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I have not but my wife just told me that it makes a sound at times behind the dash or in the engine compartment that sounds like “clicking” or trying to start It with a dead battery. We don’t live in the same town and I won’t get back there for another week or two now. I did load test the battery VDC not running had 12.9 and had a constant 14.59 +/- vdc running with the radio, seat heaters and AC on she kept her voltage around the same. Autozone did load test the battery in the car running and it came back good, out of the car 12.7 and was good. I did put a remanufactured alternator in there. It was a pain in the ass to get in but i still have the old one and can and will put it back in the car if need be.

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4 hours ago, mQbiZkit said:

I have not but my wife just told me that it makes a sound at times behind the dash or in the engine compartment that sounds like “clicking” or trying to start It with a dead battery. We don’t live in the same town and I won’t get back there for another week or two now. I did load test the battery VDC not running had 12.9 and had a constant 14.59 +/- vdc running with the radio, seat heaters and AC on she kept her voltage around the same. Autozone did load test the battery in the car running and it came back good, out of the car 12.7 and was good. I did put a remanufactured alternator in there. It was a pain in the ass to get in but i still have the old one and can and will put it back in the car if need be.

Puzzled why you replaced the battery and alternator when all tests indicated they were good, and now have a suspect reman alternator.

 

A thorough check of all connections and grounding straps is a good idea.

 

A friendly tip, when asking for assistance like this mention everything you've done and tried and the results up front.

Edited by 1004ron
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Voltage means nothing.  You need to test the CCAs compared to new.  The old style load/voltage testers are worthless.  Buy a Solar BA-7 or equivalent tester.

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1004ron 

sorry about not putting all the info in.
The battery saver thingy mode is what got me. I’ve never seen that and when I did some research it came back as battery was weak and it was shutting down things to help the battery be able to start the car. Well we had replaced the battery about 6 months ago and now it’s dying again and with this battery saver notification. So I just changed out the alternator this past Saturday figuring it was not charging the system adequately. 
Now the accent lights flicker and the interior lights and dash lights dim and brighten with the rpm’s.
 

I won’t be back in Houston where the car is for a couple more weeks.


Is the BA-7 something a parts store might have on hand or is it an item that will have to be ordered?

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9 hours ago, mQbiZkit said:

1004ron 

sorry about not putting all the info in.
The battery saver thingy mode is what got me. I’ve never seen that and when I did some research it came back as battery was weak and it was shutting down things to help the battery be able to start the car. Well we had replaced the battery about 6 months ago and now it’s dying again and with this battery saver notification. So I just changed out the alternator this past Saturday figuring it was not charging the system adequately. 
Now the accent lights flicker and the interior lights and dash lights dim and brighten with the rpm’s.
 

I won’t be back in Houston where the car is for a couple more weeks.


Is the BA-7 something a parts store might have on hand or is it an item that will have to be ordered?

I sure hope that you kept the original alternator.

 

Many of the Auto shops do have the correct test equipment for CCA.

 

If the battery tests good your current problem looks more like a bad reman alternator, but you should also do a search on how to perform a parasitic draw test - if your car stands for more than a couple of weeks you should look at getting a battery tender.

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I also recommend a C-Tek smart charger/reconditioner to go with the BA-7.   Throw it on once a month and keep the battery topped up.  Recondition if it starts to get bad.

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I haven’t made it back to the car this weekend. Am going to try this coming weekend.

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The BA9 is actually cheaper than the BA7, you can buy that one instead.  Same link that enigma-2 posted above.

 

Alternators - highly recommend Motorcraft new or remanned.  If NAPA boxes Motorcraft, that would work too but you would have to be sure.  I have had good luck with Bosch also for Fords.

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