Upgraded Sync 2 to Sync 3 - still having problems!

[BrianDrum]

Hello everyone. First post! So here’s my situation; when I first turn the car on everything works “fine”. I could drive for 30 minutes to 3 hours and not have any issues with my screen going wonky, and other times I’ll turn the car and after 10 minutes the screen goes wonky. Eventually it goes black and I’m SOL until I turn it off and let it sit for a certain amount of time (usually overnight). I’ve read that it could be my APIM and/or my ACM, but when I research what happens to other people’s systems when either of those go bad, none sound like mine. I’m wondering if it could be a loose connection...? Should I replace both and see what happens? Obviously I’m not going to do a thing u til I hopefully get some responses from this post. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
 

My Edge is a 2011, SEL with Myford Touch 8” and I believe it’s sync 2. 
 

Thanks everyone!

[tkw]

Do you have a phone paired to it?

[BrianDrum]

I did originally. When the system started to go out more and more I picked up a Bluetooth speaker to use that for music and calls. When I had my phone paired and the system would go out the system and speaker would fight for connection so I said screw it and unpaired it. 

[onyxbfly]

Unfortunately it is your APIM. Swapping it out is relatively easy. I would look into doing a SYNC3 conversion.

[BrianDrum]

2 minutes ago, onyxbfly said:

Unfortunately it is your APIM. Swapping it out is relatively easy. I would look into doing a SYNC3 conversion.

Right on. Thank you for the quick reply. Is what’s happening to my system more normal than what I’ve read? Meaning, most of the things I’ve read when it’s a bad APIM says that when the screen goes black it stays black and doesn’t intermittently work. 
 

I will definitely be doing the swap myself. I’ve read people ordering the sync3 from junkyards/car-parts.com, but I’m having some difficulties trying to find the correct part/part number. Any chance you have a link you can share with me so I make sure I’m ordering the correct part?

[onyxbfly]

9 hours ago, BrianDrum said:

Right on. Thank you for the quick reply. Is what’s happening to my system more normal than what I’ve read? Meaning, most of the things I’ve read when it’s a bad APIM says that when the screen goes black it stays black and doesn’t intermittently work. 
 

I will definitely be doing the swap myself. I’ve read people ordering the sync3 from junkyards/car-parts.com, but I’m having some difficulties trying to find the correct part/part number. Any chance you have a link you can share with me so I make sure I’m ordering the correct part?

 

A bad APIM will do everything that your APIM is doing on its way out. There was a recall for it at some point. I personally haven't purchased my SYNC3 conversions from salvage yards. I'm sure the parts would not be that hard to find. All of the SYNC3 conversions that, I have done I purchased from @TXFRDOwner Drop him a line. He will sort you out!

[DaMiFo]

If you are on car-part, it's easy to sort by part type. Just have to look and be sure you are getting a screen, APIM, or both.  If you still want part numbers, check out this thread on 2GFusions with confirmed nav/non-nav APIM part numbers.  For a screen, just make sure you get a recess-mount screen.

Recess-mount screens, generally found in a: Ford Edge (2011+), Explorer (2011+), F-150 (2013-2014), F-250 (2013+), F-350 (2013+), Flex (2013+), and Taurus (2013+). Lincoln MKS (2013+), MKT (2013+), MKX (2011+)

[BrianDrum]

Ok. So I spoke to a client today and he told me about a junkyard here in CT that probably will have the APIM. I checked out the site and it looks like they do have it. What I was wondering does anyone know the part number(s) for the sync 3?

[onyxbfly]

45 minutes ago, BrianDrum said:

Ok. So I spoke to a client today and he told me about a junkyard here in CT that probably will have the APIM. I checked out the site and it looks like they do have it. What I was wondering does anyone know the part number(s) for the sync 3?

 

 

 

[customturnings@comcast.net]

Resurrecting this thread, I have a 2013 Edge limited having audio issues where the input will switch from USB to Bluetooth to the RCA to AM/FM.  Been told it's the APIM what's everyone's thoughts' on this?

 

Thanks,

[BrianDrum]

Want to talk about frustrating? How bout this.....I just upgraded my Sync 2 to Sync 3 last night/this morning, followed the procedures to program everything and it went off without any issues...until I started to drive. And wouldn’t you know it, everything starts to go wonky again!! I got the “temporarily lost communication with touchscreen”, the entire system reboots itself while driving, the radio comes on but I’m not able to connect to my phone and while I can turn the radio on and off, the screen says “Audio Off” when in fact it’s on. I’m at a TOTAL loss on what is happening. Anyone have this happen to them after upgrading?

[BrianDrum]

I feel like this problem is never going to go away at this point! Lol!

 

So I upgraded my Sync 2 to Sync 3 a few months ago in my 2011 Edge Sel. The first Sync 3 I received pretty much acted the same as my Sync 2. Because I had a warranty on the Sync 3 I figured why not replace it and see if I somehow got a bum Sync 3 unit. Both Sync 3's came off of a 2017 Explorer. The new one came in, I programmed it, and everything seemed to be fine for about a week. During this time, I intermittently had the "Check charging system" light come on and off. I brought the Edge down to Autozone and O'Reilly's to have them check it for codes and both of them said that they don't know why the CCS light is coming on as the alternator is charging correctly as is the battery (which I had replaced a few months ago). Eventually the CCS light came on and stayed on so I brought it to a friend of mine who owns a shop nearby. He ran tests and found that in fact the alternator was shot. $525 later, I just picked it up and now my Sync 3 is going bonkers....on and off constantly. I attempted to do a master reset in case there were any bugs because of the new alternator, but alas, the screen goes out before I can even get to the screen for the master reset.

 

I've posted about this a good amount of times here and I've had some good tips from users, so I'm hoping that by starting a new thread someone will see/read this that had a similar issue and was able to get it resolved. I had mentioned in the past that could it be the ACM or the radio face climate control panel (BT4T-18A802-B), but before I spend even MORE on this, I was hoping someone had some sort of input that can help guide me in the right (see: correct and final) direction?

 

Edit to add: since I upgraded to Sync 3 my airbag light is on on my dash cluster

 

I apologize to the mods for starting a new topic. I wasn't even thinking about reviving my original!

Edited October 20, 2021 by BrianDrum

[enigma-2]

Try a hard reset, either pull all of the fuses in the audio system or disconnect the negative battery terminal, for a few minutes. (This will reset all the cars modules so expect a learning curve afterwards).