oskar27 Posted Sunday at 12:35 AM Report Share Posted Sunday at 12:35 AM 2016 Edge Titanium, FWD, 2.0L EcoBoost (leased new for 4 years and then bought my lease). Always serviced at the dealer, no problems, change the battery myself about 2 years ago. In the winter I have a digital charger and used it occasionally but not in the summer. Went out today shopping, stopped in few places and in my last stop when I went to start - no luck, says something like "...power is off to conserve battery....". Friend suggest to boost and did it and started like new. Saturday today so dealer is closed but planing to go on Monday. Car is always parked inside my garage with all doors closed and windows open. Any ideas to trouble shoot myself? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted Sunday at 01:31 AM Report Share Posted Sunday at 01:31 AM Get the battery and charging system checked at a place like Autozone - typically free of charge for the test. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted Sunday at 04:10 AM Author Report Share Posted Sunday at 04:10 AM Thanks for the tip however searching there are no Autozone outlets in my area (Quebec). I'm charging my battery now and it looks like its completely dead so there must be something wrong in the charging system. My charger has 4 indicating lights to indicate the progress and after 2 hours it still blinks on light one (when the 4th light blinks the battery is fully charged). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted Sunday at 06:41 AM Author Report Share Posted Sunday at 06:41 AM Remember years ago when I had a bad battery the engine will turn slow and eventually will start if I was lucky. However with the current problem I have in my Edge after the first few stops I did the engine turn once or twice and started like new but in my last stop the battery was dead. That I don’t understand how the battery went dead instead of going dead "slowly" meaning it will turn the engine but at very low RPM. Any explanation to make me understand what went wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted Sunday at 11:18 AM Report Share Posted Sunday at 11:18 AM Any explanation without testing would be a thumb-suck. Testing is what's needed, and the "Autozone" testing suggestion was meant to be an example of the service such stores offer, and most likely some in Canada do the same. A dead/discharged battery could be the symptom of a failed/failing battery or a parasitic drain or a charging system failure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edjunior Posted Monday at 01:43 AM Report Share Posted Monday at 01:43 AM A dead cell used to be somewhat problematic "back in the day". I don't know if it is still an issue with todays batteries. But it does sound like a possibility. You say you don't have an Autozone, how about O'Reillys? They should also be able to test it. Or any auto parts store really (Napa, etc.). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted Monday at 02:42 AM Author Report Share Posted Monday at 02:42 AM Thanks for your time mate, I have not seen any O'Reillys outlets either. In any case I prefer to use a Ford dealer, not because they may be better but right or wrong I trust them more. BTW I noticed you also have a 2016 Edge Titanium, is that with the 2.0L eco boost? Now to my subject, the battery charging is done and when I open the doors I can see the lights coming ON, however I notice in the navigation screen saying "Power is OFF to save the Battery" and trying to start the engine nothing happens. Tomorrow I will call the dealer and hopefully I will get an appointment tomorrow. A friend will come to give me a boost and hopefully the car will start. If not I will have to get a tow truck and see how he will get the car out of my garage. I have this car for 10 years and has been 100% trouble free but now what I have looks a big problem. Will post back when I have more news Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted Monday at 09:21 AM Report Share Posted Monday at 09:21 AM The tester that auto shops and many DIY'ers use does not require more skills than basic reading. TOPDON BT100 Car Battery Tester 12V Load Tester, 100-2000 CCA Automotive Alternator Tester Digital Auto Battery Analyzer Charging Cranking System Tester for Car Truck Motorcycle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted Monday at 09:47 AM Report Share Posted Monday at 09:47 AM As the battery was changed two years ago I would think it is most probably the battery failed and you need a new one. Check what is the warranty on your battery and if it is still valid take it to the shop for checking and replacement if it is bad. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted Monday at 03:26 PM Author Report Share Posted Monday at 03:26 PM Started the car with a booster and drove to Ford dealer, will be ready today or tomorrow. Hope for the best 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edjunior Posted Tuesday at 01:52 AM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 01:52 AM 23 hours ago, oskar27 said: Thanks for your time mate, I have not seen any O'Reillys outlets either. In any case I prefer to use a Ford dealer, not because they may be better but right or wrong I trust them more. BTW I noticed you also have a 2016 Edge Titanium, is that with the 2.0L eco boost? Now to my subject, the battery charging is done and when I open the doors I can see the lights coming ON, however I notice in the navigation screen saying "Power is OFF to save the Battery" and trying to start the engine nothing happens. Tomorrow I will call the dealer and hopefully I will get an appointment tomorrow. A friend will come to give me a boost and hopefully the car will start. If not I will have to get a tow truck and see how he will get the car out of my garage. I have this car for 10 years and has been 100% trouble free but now what I have looks a big problem. Will post back when I have more news Yes, it is the 2.0L. I got the car a few years ago with around 75K on it I think. My son drove it for a couple of months before he bought a new car, and put a lot of miles on it. So far I have not had any major problems with it. I just got the rear camera recall done on it, and had the hood struts replaced. I replaced the battery a couple of years ago. Other than that, just regular maintenance. It is just over 100 K on it right now. I don't drive it a lot since I retired, but it is a great little car so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted Tuesday at 02:06 AM Author Report Share Posted Tuesday at 02:06 AM 4 minutes ago, edjunior said: Yes, it is the 2.0L. I got the car a few years ago with around 75K on it I think. My son drove it for a couple of months before he bought a new car, and put a lot of miles on it. So far I have not had any major problems with it. I just got the rear camera recall done on it, and had the hood struts replaced. I replaced the battery a couple of years ago. Other than that, just regular maintenance. It is just over 100 K on it right now. I don't drive it a lot since I retired, but it is a great little car so far. I understand them engines if built in the Cleveland plant have a problem with the head gasket for water intrusion. Mine has about 65K Kilometers and so far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted Tuesday at 09:34 PM Author Report Share Posted Tuesday at 09:34 PM The dealer checked the battery and charging system and the only problem they found was the battery. Replaced the battery and now all is back to normal. CAD$ 359.00 + taxes. Still do not understand why I never got before any signs that my battery was bad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted yesterday at 01:17 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 01:17 AM Glad you got it resolved. 3 hours ago, oskar27 said: Still do not understand why I never got before any signs that my battery was bad I'm a puzzled by that comment - based on your own description the signs were there of a bad battery, and that's what I based my recommendations on. For the benefit of others, most auto/parts/accessory stores have test equipment that can reliably diagnose a bad battery, or even a battery is approaching end of life long before it presents a problem - they can also supply and fit a battery equal or better than the OEM at a price significantly lower than the dealership. Good quality testers can be bought on-line at a reasonable price and are real simple to use. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted yesterday at 03:00 AM Author Report Share Posted yesterday at 03:00 AM Sorry, I don't agree that the signs were there. To my knowledge a sign for a bad battery is that she start to crank the engine at lower RPM, and then you know that you have battery problem. My battery started the car normally about 10 minutes before, then I drove to my next stop and when I got out and try to start the car again I had nothing. Anyway I only try to educate myself and learn why and I just had a thought: the batteries I used before years ago they were the "old style" means not sealed and the one I have now is the sealed type or maintenance free. Perhaps that's the reason? Many thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted yesterday at 07:46 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 07:46 AM 4 hours ago, oskar27 said: Sorry, I don't agree that the signs were there. To my knowledge a sign for a bad battery is that she start to crank the engine at lower RPM, and then you know that you have battery problem. My battery started the car normally about 10 minutes before, then I drove to my next stop and when I got out and try to start the car again I had nothing. Anyway I only try to educate myself and learn why and I just had a thought: the batteries I used before years ago they were the "old style" means not sealed and the one I have now is the sealed type or maintenance free. Perhaps that's the reason? Many thanks Newer cars have so much electrics that they become very sensitive to any issues with the batteries. Also, they start quite fast compared to older ones that in many cases you might not notice a "slow start" before it reaches a state of completely not cranking. This is not related to the battery being sealed (maintenance free). Also, what was the battery brand you installed before? Motorcraft batteries would have 3 years warranty, so you might still be covered, even if you had done the installation yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted 21 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 21 hours ago I agree with you omar302, car starts too fast to notice any difference but now that I know about it I would say it's true, she used to start within the first/second crank and lately has been second or third crank but since I didn't know I paid no attention. Now that I'm in "batteries" I must confess that I have been very negligent regarding batteries. Checking my records the battery I had which I installed myself was purchased from a local well known store mid December 2021, so it was almost 5 years old. Searching to educate myself I find that these batteries have a life span of 3-5 years so I was way over my limit. Also I learn how to test these battery with a voltmeter which I have one. Many thanks to all for the help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 15 hours ago Report Share Posted 15 hours ago A volt meter is not a reliable test of a batteries health - its CCA ability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted 14 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 14 hours ago It's true, the cold cranking amps should never drop below 10.0A, plus fully charged battery should have 12.6 to 12.8V, all done with a multimeter Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 13 hours ago Report Share Posted 13 hours ago (edited) A 600 CCA rated battery would be consider past its useful life long before the CCA drops anywhere as low as 10.0A The settled voltage of the battery is only an indication of its level of charge, not an indication of its health/CCA capacity. . Edited 13 hours ago by 1004ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 13 hours ago Report Share Posted 13 hours ago The Fluke 77 was the top of the line multimeter when I got it in 1983 and it's still going strong, however that is not what I use to assess a battery's health for the reasons explained above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted 12 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 12 hours ago Are you suggesting TopDon? CAD$69.00 at Amazon.ca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 12 hours ago Report Share Posted 12 hours ago TOPDON is what I'd consider middle range - there's a few other brands that are cheaper and have good reviews. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar27 Posted 9 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 9 hours ago Many thanks for your time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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