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Ask A Professional Detailer?

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I've been using the 303 product for years. I think I read somewhere that you should not get it on the clear plastic of the instrument cluster and stereo screens cuz it may cause them to fog/haze over time. I would not use it on headlights. 303 works awesome on tires! Gives them a nice satin sheen and does not collect dust. I also use 303 on all the exterior black plastic trim.

 

I've been thrilled to death with the Griots waterless wash product.

 

Make sure to get yourself a nice supply of HIGH QUALITY microfiber towels in various sizes. The light green ones I purchased from Griots are really nice but I was also able to find some good ones at local stores.

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Thanks for the info from both of you! I think I'm getting a handle on the proper ways to maintain nice surfaces. We're struggling right now with a decision though. Our dealer has offered their ResistAll package free of charge. Of course, I'm always skeptical in these situations and I've seen the comments from several people about not wanting the dealerships to touch their new car. My better half thinks I'm paranoid though (and thinks I've gotten mighty picky given we used to take our car through the car wash! :) ) and thinks if it's truly free, we shouldn't pass it up. The only thing that really interests me is the insurance side of the package. I'm not under any impression that ResistAll really protects for 5-7 years or whatever, but insurance against some of the stuff they cover might be nice. We've enjoyed our experience with the dealership so far and to my untrained eye the dealer prep looked ok. That ought to tell you what a novice I am with all this stuff! :)

 

Whatever route we go on that though, I believe I'm still going to proceed with CQ and all the other stuff. I had read about the Iron X and meant to ask if anyone had used the Iron X Soap. Was curious what the difference is and whether it works as well. Also, I notice on AutoGeek that it says to keep Iron X off chrome. So would I need to keep it off the chrome clad wheels? Thought maybe I was misunderstanding you Richy when you said to use it on the wheels to remove the brake dust. I assume I'd need to mask areas like the grill and such?

 

Supposed to be a rainy day tomorrow...we'll see just how far into my head you detailers have gotten when I get home from work and have a road water dirty vehicle in the garage... :D

 

Thanks again for the info!

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By all means...resist ResistAll! For one thing, CQ needs a clean surface. Their so-called warranty isn't worth a damn. My father was a GM dealer for 25 years and I worked there for over 7. I know the business. CQ is an amazing product and your husband won't believe his eyes when he sees it shed water. (do a search on YouTube on it).

IX is fine on chrome wheels. Just rinse it well, that's all. I use it on my Lincoln wheels and they're mint. I can't wait to hear your experience with those products! I've had CQ on my Lincoln for 1 year now. It still looks better than new.

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Now that I got my car on Sat all my detailing stuff is almost here. I have bulk sizes of the most used of the optimum products on the way (OPC, No Rinse, Spray Wax, interior protectant, and opti-bond tire gel). On top of that I also have their new MF pads for my flex and their spray hyper polish to do a one light polish on the entire car. Then I have some opti-coat 2.0 to seal it up nicely.

 

I also bought some Wolf's Chemical Decon Gel (Deironizer) as a general maintenance cleaner for the wheels. The wheels will be cleaned fully and opticoated too. The Wolf's gel is an awesome product that works just like Sonax wheel cleaner but doesn't need aggitation. It's also safe to use on paint as a decon step.

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Now that I got my car on Sat all my detailing stuff is almost here. I have bulk sizes of the most used of the optimum products on the way (OPC, No Rinse, Spray Wax, interior protectant, and opti-bond tire gel). On top of that I also have their new MF pads for my flex and their spray hyper polish to do a one light polish on the entire car. Then I have some opti-coat 2.0 to seal it up nicely.

 

I also bought some Wolf's Chemical Decon Gel (Deironizer) as a general maintenance cleaner for the wheels. The wheels will be cleaned fully and opticoated too. The Wolf's gel is an awesome product that works just like Sonax wheel cleaner but doesn't need aggitation. It's also safe to use on paint as a decon step.

 

Dude, load up. Detailer's Domain has it for 20% off today!!

 

Very nice choice on those products too. Please post up some pics of the job when you're done!

Edited by richy

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Well I finally had a day that I could detail my car. When I took delivery I had them just pull off the plastic and I drove away. I ONR washed it and put some wax on it until I could fully clean it. It was a perfect day as it was overcast and not too hot. I had to use a dual head 1000w halogen to inspect as there was no sun. To my enjoyment the paint was almost completely swirl/rids free. There was only a couple little marks that was barely visible. The bad part is that I did bring my Nikon dslr I forgot a memory card. I pulled them all out of my bag to clean them up and forgot to put them back. No pictures yet. Below is my workflow.

 

- Washed entire car with ONR to remove surface dirt

-Sprayed the entire car with Optimum power clean APC diluted 3:1 and slight agitated it(this stripped the wax and slight road sling)

-Next I rinsed the entire car to remove all the APC with a power washer

-Sprayed the entire car with Wolfs Decon gel and agitated after 5 mins(watched it bleed purple on my hood and other expected panels)

-Rinsed the car after 10 mins of the Decon gel

-While wet I clayed the panels where it bled the most using ONR in QD form. There was almost nothing in the clay as the decon gel got everything that was visible before!

-Inspected all the paint

-Polished all of the main panels 1 pass using my Flex and Blue optimum foam and Polish II.

-Wiped down polish with APC to remove anything on the paint

-Coated the entire exterior with Opti-coat 2.0 (Paint, Trim, Wheels, Windows)

 

 

Overall the car was in great shape but the polish II with the blue foam pad worked great. Slightly enhanced the wet look and the reflections are nuts for a white car. The pearl in the white really pops. The Opti-coat was very easy to apply. I used the method posted on autopia to apply it. It involved a rubber glove over the applicator and blue shop towels over that so it doesn't absorb. Slightly touched the high spots with a plush microfiber. I am protected for years to come and don't need to really wax unless I feel like it.

 

The Wolf's Decon gel is AMAZING. It really cleans everything! I've never seen a wheel clean so easily. It also worked perfectly on removing any fallout from shipping/environment. It's very easy to see the contamination on white paint before and after it's gone. I highly suggest your try some. Especially if you want to forget about brake dust forever.

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^ Awesome! Too bad that you forgot your mem card and couldn't take pics! I'm not sure about you, but I find a day of detailing very gratifying. A couple of beers and a good cigar really helps too! :)

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^ Awesome! Too bad that you forgot your mem card and couldn't take pics! I'm not sure about you, but I find a day of detailing very gratifying. A couple of beers and a good cigar really helps too! :)

 

I don't smoke anything so no cigar here :) Definately much easier with the right supplies and no dealer installed swirls. Saved me a few hours.

 

 

One thing that is annoying is that Ford paint does have a lot of orange peel. I saw it mentioned many times before and it's true. Other than that it's great paint. Love the white platinum. Almost the same as my Mom's Acura.

Edited by NWS Alpine

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When using a coin op car wash just to rinse salt and mud off my car, do you recommend using a pre-soak or just spray with soap and rinse?

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When using a coin op car wash just to rinse salt and mud off my car, do you recommend using a pre-soak or just spray with soap and rinse?

 

Whatever you do, NEVER use the brush that is there. People do unspeakable acts with them. That's the last thing you want touching your paint. If your goal is to remove the salt, use water. The soap in those places is usually very high in alkaline content and will strip any wax off the surface. Do a thorough rinse until such time you can do a proper wash with a decent soap. You might look into Optimum's ONR. It's a rinseless wash product which is just awesome. They have a new version just out. Check it out:

http://optimumforums.org/index.php?app=nexus&module=payments&section=store&do=item&id=2

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Just read all 17 pages of this thread...what a lot of great information! I copied and pasted a word doc of things I want to keep for quick reference (about 4 pages worth). I still have a couple questions...

 

1) What's your take on the Meguiars G110v2 DA polisher? http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-dual-action-polisher-g110.html

 

2) I get really confused looking at all the pads available for the DA polishers, can you recommend some basics for the casual home detailer? Which pads should I get and what products go on those pads?

 

3) Last, I found plenty of product suggestions for my White Edge but I also have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline in Aberdeen Green, what wax works best for that color?

 

Thanks again for all the great info!

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Just read all 17 pages of this thread...what a lot of great information! I copied and pasted a word doc of things I want to keep for quick reference (about 4 pages worth). I still have a couple questions...

 

1) What's your take on the Meguiars G110v2 DA polisher? http://www.autogeek....isher-g110.html

I bought one myself, so that should tell you everything you need to know, LOL.

 

2) I get really confused looking at all the pads available for the DA polishers, can you recommend some basics for the casual home detailer? Which pads should I get and what products go on those pads?

Yes, Buff and Shine pads. Get them from ADS (Auto Detailing Solutions). The 5.5" is a great size to work with. If you buy a 6 pack, they have a good deal on them. I suggest yellow for cutting, green for mid polish and black or blue for jeweling.

 

3) Last, I found plenty of product suggestions for my White Edge but I also have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline in Aberdeen Green, what wax works best for that color?

Duragloss 501 (It's listed as a marine polish but it is AMAZING on white!!! (use the green pad for it or use a white one) Get some 601 bonding agent and some 105 or 111 sealant. You will love the look and protection. If you buy directly from DG, they have a flat $5. shipping.

Thanks again for all the great info!

 

 

Looking forward to seeing the pics when you're done!

 

One more thing, with a white vehicle, you must get IronX, either the spray or the gel. You won't believe what will come off your brand new paint! It's great for getting rid of brake dust too. Amazing product!

Edited by richy

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Looking forward to seeing the pics when you're done!

 

One more thing, with a white vehicle, you must get IronX, either the spray or the gel. You won't believe what will come off your brand new paint! It's great for getting rid of brake dust too. Amazing product!

 

Thanks for the help but I'm still slightly confused on the pads...From what I've read here, I plan to use a polish, sealant and wax. I assume those equate to "cutting, mid polish and jeweling"? Which pad(s) do I use for polish, sealant and wax?

 

Thanks again.

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Done a lot of reading (and spent a lot of money) over the past week or so but I'm still stuck on something. What should I use on the plastic chrome grill on the edge? That thing is a bug magnet and I want to protect it with something that will make it easier to clean. On a similar note, what products work best on the chrome clad wheels?

 

 

FYI, here's what I have for the paint...I bought a Griot's Garage 6 in DA polisher, 5 in Lake Country backing plate, 6 pk of 5.5 in Lake Country flat pads, Meguair's clay, GG's Speed Shine Detailer, Pinnacle Paintwork cleansing lotion, Collinite 845, and Poorboys Natty's Red paste wax. I appreciate any feedback on this plan.

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you can use the collinite 845 or any wax/sealant on the grille and wheels.

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1333902961[/url]' post='77985']

you can use the collinite 845 or any wax/sealant on the grille and wheels.

 

Other than a nano coating, Colli is amazing!! It will do great on your grille and wheels.

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First, just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I'm trying to make my way through the whole thing and the information in here is awesome. I've always tried to keep my vehicles looking good and have done a decent job but this is definitely filling in the areas that I didn't have a clue about. I've been using good products for awhile now, mostly Zaino. I just recently purchased the Porter Cable polisher and some good foam pads to help me out. My first go around with the new polisher was on my wife's Edge Sport and it's been my best success yet. I clay barred, then used some Optimum Opti Seal, and finished up with Zaino Z-2. Completely happy with the results.

 

Here is my question and I hope it hasn't been answered since I'm still wading through this thread. I read early on that polishing and sealing is one of the first thing recommended on a new vehicle. That was fine with my wife's Edge since it's been sitting on the lot for awhile. My truck however, was ordered and built on 2/14. I've been holding off on going through the same process with it because I've read elsewhere that you should give it 2 to 3 months for the new paint to properly cure. Is this true and if so what is a good waiting time?

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it's probably cured already because factory paint is baked so it cures a lot quicker.

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I just did a little more research and everything I've read completely agrees with that. Thanks for the answer. Looks like I'll be getting the clay out this morning.

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Hello everybody,

 

My new 2013 SEL Edge is on order and I was offered by Ford a package called Tricare (Electromagnetic rust protection, Xzilon paint sealant and interion tricare protection), all for about $1100. After asking members opinion in one of this forum, the advice was to skip all this and do it myself. The problem is the more I read on the Internet and forums, the more confused I get.

I guess I will skip the rust module and the interior protection, but I want to focus on the exterior paint treatment. There are so many products and everyone claims is the best on the planet. One guy used this, other use that, his uncle use somethyng else :rant2: , I go "cucu" and I don't want to screw up the original paint on a 40K new car. It's a big mistake if I leave it as is (factory finish), or I should do somethyng for the paint?

My plan is to do it professionally at the beginning and maintain it myself as required. Can somebody recomend a good detailer in Toronto area?

Thanks,

Edited by jedi_m

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Hello everybody,

 

My new 2013 SEL Edge is on order and I was offered by Ford a package called Tricare (Electromagnetic rust protection, Xzilon paint sealant and interion tricare protection), all for about $1100. After asking members opinion in one of this forum, the advice was to skipp all this and do it myself. The problem is the more I read on the Internet and forums, the more confused I get.

I guess I will skipp the rust module and the interior protection, but I want to focus on the exterior paint treatment. There are so many products and everyone claims is the best on the planet. One guy used this, other use that, his uncle use somethyng else :rant2: , I go "cucu" and I don't want to screw up the original paint on a 40K new car. It's a big mistake if I leave it as is (factory finish), or I should do somethyng for the paint?

My plan is to do it professionally at the beginning and maintain it myself as required. Can somebody recomend a good detailer in Toronto area?

Thanks,

 

Paint protection is a religion. They all work - the main difference is how long they last. Carnauba wax is easy to apply but doesn't last very long - just a few months. Newer polymers and sealants last longer. Which ones look the best is personal preference and the average owner won't be able to notice much difference.

 

Your detailer should be able to help you choose the right product for you to maintain depending on how picky you are about the result and how much time you want to spend.

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Paint protection is a religion. They all work - the main difference is how long they last. Carnauba wax is easy to apply but doesn't last very long - just a few months. Newer polymers and sealants last longer. Which ones look the best is personal preference and the average owner won't be able to notice much difference.

 

Your detailer should be able to help you choose the right product for you to maintain depending on how picky you are about the result and how much time you want to spend.

 

Thanks akirby,

Does anybody knows and recomended any detailer in the GTA?

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