wilsons66604 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Yep, Poorboys S&W is an awesome product. I litterally never leave the driveway without a spray bottle of S&W and a few MF towels in the trunk. What did you purchase for clay, polish, and sealant? I found a good coupon and prices for these items at AutoGeek.com (so far not pleased with the shipping, but it was free) 1 MEN-APO88P - 16 oz. Menzerna Power Lock Polymer S 1 MEN-PO85RD - 32 oz. Menzerna Polish PO85RD 1 PIN-510 - 4 oz. Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay The Poor Boy S&W & Trim restorer were purchased from PoorBoy's web site and the stuff was 2 day FedEx'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Hi Canuck, my blue edge is coming around end of Nov., what is the min. I can do to keep it looking good inside and out in the coming years ? What products to use ? Thank you in advance !! The first thing I would do is learn how to properly wash/dry your vehicle. I can't stress this enough as this is the step that produces 95% of paint imperfections. Take a look at the wash package from Detailed Image that mentioned earlier in this thread. Have two buckets with grit guards, a 100% sheepskin mitt, and some MF waffle weave drying towels to ensure a safe wash process. A synthetic polymer sealant like Menzerna Power Lock is a great way to protect your paint since it's durable and will only need applied a few times a year. If you have leather seating surfaces, condition them regularly (once a month or so) to prevent cracking. There are a lot of good leather conditioners out there (Zaino, Lexol, Leatherique, Poorboys, etc). If you have cloth seats and have any stains or spills, 303 Aerospace Cleaner & Spot remover is great to have. 303 Aerospace also makes a great fabric guard as well. Lastly, I always recommend 303 Aerospace protectant for interior trim (dash, door trim, etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I found a good coupon and prices for these items at AutoGeek.com (so far not pleased with the shipping, but it was free) 1 MEN-APO88P - 16 oz. Menzerna Power Lock Polymer S 1 MEN-PO85RD - 32 oz. Menzerna Polish PO85RD 1 PIN-510 - 4 oz. Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay The Poor Boy S&W & Trim restorer were purchased from PoorBoy's web site and the stuff was 2 day FedEx'd Good stuff, you'll really love the PO85RD. I am a HUGE fan of Menzerna polishes, as well as all of their product. What polisher will you be using to apply the PO85RD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsons66604 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Good stuff, you'll really love the PO85RD. I am a HUGE fan of Menzerna polishes, as well as all of their product. What polisher will you be using to apply the PO85RD? I was planning on doing everything by hand. Is that OK? Will I be wishing I had gotten a buffer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I was planning on doing everything by hand. Is that OK? Will I be wishing I had gotten a buffer? Yeah, you should really get a random orbital polisher like a Porter Cable. Menzerna polishes are made to be used with a polisher and you will find it extremely difficult and labour intensive to properly break down the polishes by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvford Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 (edited) Yeah, learning how to properly detail your vehicle is addicting, rewarding, and very gratifying. I just love having customers pick up their vehicles from me simply amazed at how well their vehicles looks. Like I said, it's a very gratifying business. As an example, here is a customer's Altima that I detailed. It looks like they washed their car with a brillo pad since day one. It was just in horrible shape. I include a CD with before and after pictures for each customer and they were astounded at the difference. I've always taken really good care of my cars, not to the detailer level, but my cars always look good. Clean inside and out. So I'm curious... what do you think caused all those swirls and scratches? A carwash? Dirty towels? I've never had a car detailed... but I've also never had a car that cost over $40K. So how often should I take my car to be detailed? And what should I look for in a good detail shop? Edited October 11, 2010 by luvford Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsons66604 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 (edited) Yeah, you should really get a random orbital polisher like a Porter Cable. Menzerna polishes are made to be used with a polisher and you will find it extremely difficult and labour intensive to properly break down the polishes by hand. It's done. I sprung for the Porter Cable 7424XP 4" Basic Kit Detailed Image threw in a Sheepskin Mitt as the daily special. Are there any handy videos on line that will help me with the process of polishing? Every little bit of info helps. EDIT: I just searched YouTube for Porter Cable 7424 and came up with all kinds of videos Edited October 11, 2010 by wilsons66604 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I've always taken really good care of my cars, not to the detailer level, but my cars always look good. Clean inside and out. So I'm curious... what do you think caused all those swirls and scratches? A carwash? Dirty towels? I've never had a car detailed... but I've also never had a car that cost over $40K. So how often should I take my car to be detailed? And what should I look for in a good detail shop? It was definitely improper washing habits that caused that person's paint to look like that. If I had to guess, it was a touch car wash or they used brushes when washing it. I give my cars a full detail (clay/polish/seal) twice a year. Once in the spring and once in the fall. Even if you only get it detailed once a year, that's good. As for a detail shop, ask how long they have been in business, what products they use, what their detail process is, and if they have any before and after pics. Expect to pay at least $300 for a full detail.......that is if their work is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 It's done. I sprung for the Porter Cable 7424XP 4" Basic Kit Detailed Image threw in a Sheepskin Mitt as the daily special. Are there any handy videos on line that will help me with the process of polishing? Every little bit of info helps. EDIT: I just searched YouTube for Porter Cable 7424 and came up with all kinds of videos Awesome!! You will NOT regret the purchase!! :shades: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpattie Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Canuck, used the Quick Detailer to get off the pine sap and it worked great. Have a fresh glop and though picking a chunk of it off the spray took off the rest quite easily. As far as the little stuff that was left over after washing it took a little more elbow grease but got the stain off. Thanks for tip. Different topic. I guess I don't know how to wash a car :wacko: Why the 2 buckets? what is the rinse one used for? I have always just washed with the soap, then sprayed off the freshly washed area. Also, I see no mention of those silicone squeegees, IMO they seem to do good job on glass and also some of the flatter, large areas, then finish off with MF towel or in the past I have used shammy. I have seen no recommendations or mention of the old fashion shammy. Are they out of fashion now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Canuck, used the Quick Detailer to get off the pine sap and it worked great. Have a fresh glop and though picking a chunk of it off the spray took off the rest quite easily. As far as the little stuff that was left over after washing it took a little more elbow grease but got the stain off. Thanks for tip. Different topic. I guess I don't know how to wash a car :wacko: Why the 2 buckets? what is the rinse one used for? I have always just washed with the soap, then sprayed off the freshly washed area. Also, I see no mention of those silicone squeegees, IMO they seem to do good job on glass and also some of the flatter, large areas, then finish off with MF towel or in the past I have used shammy. I have seen no recommendations or mention of the old fashion shammy. Are they out of fashion now? Glad to hear the QD removed the pine sap. The reason for using a rinse bucket is to rinse your mitt in the rinse bucket so that it will release all of the dirt in there before putting into your soapy bucket. You wouldn't believe how much dirt is at the bottom of the rinse bucket when you are done. More dirt in your rinse bucket means less dirt being moved around on your paint causing scratches. Also, NEVER use a squeegee or California water blade type of product on your paint. They are absolutely horrible on your paint and will cause some severe marring. Chamois are safe for drying your car, however an MF waffle weave towel will do a better job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpattie Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Glad to hear the QD removed the pine sap. The reason for using a rinse bucket is to rinse your mitt in the rinse bucket so that it will release all of the dirt in there before putting into your soapy bucket. You wouldn't believe how much dirt is at the bottom of the rinse bucket when you are done. More dirt in your rinse bucket means less dirt being moved around on your paint causing scratches. Also, NEVER use a squeegee or California water blade type of product on your paint. They are absolutely horrible on your paint and will cause some severe marring. Chamois are safe for drying your car, however an MF waffle weave towel will do a better job. Canuck, again thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Canuck, again thanks for the advice. Hey no problem at all, anytime. Just happy to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choff1138 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Glad to hear the QD removed the pine sap. The reason for using a rinse bucket is to rinse your mitt in the rinse bucket so that it will release all of the dirt in there before putting into your soapy bucket. You wouldn't believe how much dirt is at the bottom of the rinse bucket when you are done. More dirt in your rinse bucket means less dirt being moved around on your paint causing scratches. Also, NEVER use a squeegee or California water blade type of product on your paint. They are absolutely horrible on your paint and will cause some severe marring. Chamois are safe for drying your car, however an MF waffle weave towel will do a better job. Oh my! I have to get a second bucket now? (do you hear me chuckling at my lack of knowing how to wash a car?) But dirt settles and I just get the suds from the top of the bucket, won't that work? I am going to try to be better! we do have the correct mitt - and I will get the right towels.... but I am pretty sure I am done washing it myself for the winter. TOO COLD already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Oh my! I have to get a second bucket now? (do you hear me chuckling at my lack of knowing how to wash a car?) But dirt settles and I just get the suds from the top of the bucket, won't that work? I am going to try to be better! we do have the correct mitt - and I will get the right towels.... but I am pretty sure I am done washing it myself for the winter. TOO COLD already. Without two buckets you are essentially washing your vehicle with dirty water. Btw, what kind of temps are you getting up there now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choff1138 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Without two buckets you are essentially washing your vehicle with dirty water. Btw, what kind of temps are you getting up there now? Currently 1pm and only 37 degrees - our high is supposed to be 40 - low 29... Fahrenheit of course.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Currently 1pm and only 37 degrees - our high is supposed to be 40 - low 29... Fahrenheit of course.. Ok, nothing too crazy yet. We had a beautiful Thanksgiving day here today. Sunny and about 17C (62F). Went for a nice top down cruise in the S2000. Not too many top down days left now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choff1138 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Ok, nothing too crazy yet. We had a beautiful Thanksgiving day here today. Sunny and about 17C (62F). Went for a nice top down cruise in the S2000. Not too many top down days left now. Yep - snow in the forecast for tomorrow - I will keep everyone posted... just rain now so might get to test ice in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpattie Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Yep - snow in the forecast for tomorrow - I will keep everyone posted... just rain now so might get to test ice in the morning. I retired my shorts and flip flops uniform, ( I work from home when not traveling) Saturday. Turned colder Sure takes a lot longer to get dressed in the morning, 2 shirts, socks and shoes I have lived in Colorado for over 30 years, got our worst Winter blizzard Oct 25 1997. Where I lived we officially had 68 inches, but it was the drifting that made it really bad, reports of 18 foot drifts, though the biggest I saw was maybe 12. So it can happen anytime now. :tequila: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Nap Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Glad to hear the QD removed the pine sap. The reason for using a rinse bucket is to rinse your mitt in the rinse bucket so that it will release all of the dirt in there before putting into your soapy bucket. You wouldn't believe how much dirt is at the bottom of the rinse bucket when you are done. More dirt in your rinse bucket means less dirt being moved around on your paint causing scratches. Also, NEVER use a squeegee or California water blade type of product on your paint. They are absolutely horrible on your paint and will cause some severe marring. Chamois are safe for drying your car, however an MF waffle weave towel will do a better job. STRONGLY AGREE. "Spiderweb/swirl scratches" can be avoided by the 2 bucket thing and, if possible, a spot free rinse. I wash and rinse with de-ionized water and if a customer wants it dry, I break out the leaf blower (with a foam intake filter). The less you actually touch your paint, the better it will look! Happy detailing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choff1138 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 (edited) I retired my shorts and flip flops uniform, ( I work from home when not traveling) Saturday. Turned colder Sure takes a lot longer to get dressed in the morning, 2 shirts, socks and shoes I have lived in Colorado for over 30 years, got our worst Winter blizzard Oct 25 1997. Where I lived we officially had 68 inches, but it was the drifting that made it really bad, reports of 18 foot drifts, though the biggest I saw was maybe 12. So it can happen anytime now. :tequila: Wow - what type of time frame was that? days hours? I think the worst we had specifically where I am is about three feet in a 24 hour period. We don't get the drifts as much as other parts of the state. Anchorage tends to be one of the more temperate/mild areas so not the major extremes of Barrow or such. But we are officially to longer nights than days, only 10 1/2 hours of daylight (if the sun comes out which it hasn't today) I haven't been to Colorado, but so far there is nothing like Alaska. I get the itch to get out, then go crazy and have to come back. Anyway - this isn't supposed to be a thread about weather. We digress... Edited October 11, 2010 by choff1138 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpattie Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Wow - what type of time frame was that? days hours? I think the worst we had specifically where I am is about three feet in a 24 hour period. We don't get the drifts as much as other parts of the state. Anchorage tends to be one of the more temperate/mild areas so not the major extremes of Barrow or such. But we are officially to longer nights than days, only 10 1/2 hours of daylight (if the sun comes out which it hasn't today) I haven't been to Colorado, but so far there is nothing like Alaska. I get the itch to get out, then go crazy and have to come back. Anyway - this isn't supposed to be a thread about weather. We digress... yes we did I PM'd you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsons66604 Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 With the winter coming, I am wondering how all my new car care products will fair in my unheated shed. Will zero degree temps harm my various products? Should I store my products in a heated place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckG35 Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 With the winter coming, I am wondering how all my new car care products will fair in my unheated shed. Will zero degree temps harm my various products? Should I store my products in a heated place? Definitely don't let them freeze, so I would certainly bring them inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsons66604 Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 (edited) I think I have everything I need to DO my car. It's going to be a beautiful weekend and perfect for the detail. White or Black lake country pads?? I've got a White Pad (I think it was a freebie from Detailed Image) and a few Black pads. Which one should I use to polish (with porter cable)? How about the sealant. Would you apply sealant with the Porter Cable or by hand? Also, I got a free 6" red finishing pad with one of my AutoGeek orders. EDIT: I think I found an answer to one of my questions. The black ones are for Menzerna PO85RD (that's what I got) and the white ones are for Menzerna PO106FF Are pad colors standard in the detailing industry? Edited October 14, 2010 by wilsons66604 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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