Personally I would never use anything but OEM. Period.   I talked with my independent mechanic about this a month ago. What he does, cost, loaner, etc. He said he drops the sub frame to change the water pump.    While the engine is out he also changes the timing chain, tensioners & chain guides (comes as a kit), plugs, coil packs, serpentine belt and tensioner, camshaft position sensors &  camshaft actuators.   Think there was one or two more items, but can't remember. Basically anything he can easily get to while the engine was out and is known to fail.   I mentioned the transmission OSS, etc & he said he does not touch anything on the transmission; unless its a problem.   Change all fluids of course: oil, transmission,  steering, brake and coolant. Change air cleaner.    Clean throttle body, MAF & EGR.   Though inspection of all suspension and steering components.    Most of the engines this mechanic works on are over 150k so you could afford to be conservative due to your milage.)   But ...! ALL PARTS ARE MOTORCRAFT.      .    

I apologize for my last message being off-topic. I also need the part number (and what it looks like) of the last part. I need to replace the headliner soon and will need the clips that hold it in place. Can you give me the part number for the clips?

Thank you guys !

2011 Edge, 69K miles. Daughter ran out quick this morning and when she got home there was coolant leaking on the drive.    Confirmed that it was coming for the weep passage. Dipstick is clean oil and the level is not elevated.    Pricing out parts for the water pump replacements.    Opinions on what else should be replaced while in there?   What brand of aftermarket parts are you comfortable with?   Thanks    

Compared to the two other brands I've tried after the original set wore out, I decided liked the originals best for all season performance and tread life.   I've had tires installed at Costco with no issues, but thanks for reminding me about the potential damage to the Ford lug nuts - I just recently installed the new set that I got when the dealership destroyed them at the 5K mile service (had them on the shelf all this time). I'll insist that impact wrenches not be used.

The CEL/Wrench lights are out.  The turbo and cruise control are working.  The surge/tugging is still there. I going to have the trans fluid drained/filled and see if that helps anything.  The trans guy drove the car and does not think what I am feeling is 'torque converter shudder'.  He recommends we wait to see if anything changes with the drain/fill before considering anything like the shudderfix additive.

No really "all weather", which I suspect would be the 3 peak rated snow tires with UTGQ ratings for year around use (CrossClimate2/3 for example).   I don't think my tires are worth a separate post.   It had Kelly Edge A/S tires on it when I bought it. They had zero miles, the dealership found the cheapest ones they could. They were not great at any one thing, but other than noisy at take off across painted stripes, and would hydroplane in not very deep water, not bad enough for me to replace. Got 53,000 miles on them, still had 4/32 tread left (pretty consistent across entire tread, all 4 tires), decided to get them replaced instead of waiting another 2,000 miles to wear them the rest of the way to the wear bars.   Looked for a mid mileage "warranty", high traction and temperature rated (high ambient temps 9 months of the year, 8 hours at 80 mph at 110 degree ambient can end some tires), A/S more summer oriented tire. I don't want 80k tires, but I didn't want 20-30k wear tires, as it gets about 20,000 miles a year, but we get lots of nails and screws in them, something around where it is driven every day for work. Last tire repair they said they likely wouldn't patch it again, ~15-20 patches already.   For $750 installed I ended up with Sumitomo HTR A/S P03 from Discount. They are considered UHP A/S, the Tire Rack testing shows them mid pack in most tests, but customer ratings and reviews seem to match my expectations. 1 year road hazard from Sumitomo (I didn't get from TireRack with 2 years road hazard, and I didn't spend $160 on the Discount one, that is one tire). The SUV/Crossover tire segment had some candidates, but usually more costly, and many have temperature rating of B.   They are much better than the tires they replace, but how much of that is new versus old.   They are much quieter than the ones they replace, even when new. No longer have small steering wheel movement, especially on cement roads. It still "kicks" at each expansion joint, but it doesn't saw back and forth.   Got to experience them in standing water, and active rain, and did much better than the previous ones. I didn't hear the wheel wells filling with water and lack of steering.   Only weird thing I ran into once was driving at 82 mph, cross gust of ~40-50 mph. Instead of being pushed sideways, it swayed a little bit. Just once, and the entire 4 hour drive was in high winds, and it behaved as expected.

Welcome.   What alternator brand and where did you purchase it?   Non-OEM alternators are widely reported here to be incompatible with the vehicles computer charging controls - check the post directly above yours.     .

THANK YOU ALL !! I have a 2011 ford edge limited and i replaced the alternator and then shortly after i got the check charging system code warning and occasionally if i drove it too long it would just shut down and i replaced the battery the serpentine belt and went through two alternators before seeing this then i replaced the alternator again with a motorcraft and IT WORKED !! Thank you all this fixed all my problems and i am so very grateful !!!

Don't know the answer to your questions, but is the car fixed now?  All the issues cleared?