Agree, the variable displacement compressors symptoms are very different to the ON-OFF clutch type.

and this is what "Gemini AI" told me about it...   Since your 2019 Ford Edge ST uses a variable displacement compressor, it doesn't rely on a traditional "on/off" clutch for every cycle. Instead, it uses an Electronic Control Valve (ECV) to regulate how much refrigerant is being pumped. When this valve fails, the symptoms are often more subtle than a total system breakdown. Here is what to look for: 1. The "Delayed Cooling" Effect The most common symptom is that the AC blows warm air for the first 5–10 minutes of driving, and then suddenly begins to blow ice-cold. This happens because the valve is sticking and requires enough vibration or pressure buildup to finally "pop" into the correct position. 2. Inconsistent Temperatures You might notice the air getting warmer when you are idling at a stoplight, then getting cold again once you start moving or increase the engine RPM. A failing valve struggles to maintain the correct displacement when the engine speed changes. 3. "Laggy" Response to Controls If you turn the AC to "MAX" and nothing happens for a significant amount of time—even though you can see the compressor hub spinning—the valve is likely failing to adjust the internal swashplate to increase the stroke of the pistons. 4. Normal Pressures, No Cold Air If a mechanic hooks up gauges and sees that the Static Pressure is fine (meaning you have enough R-1234yf refrigerant), but the High Side doesn't go up and the Low Side doesn't go down when the AC is turned on, it usually points directly to the valve rather than a leak. 5. Rattling or Clicking Noises Because the valve controls the internal "tilt" (swashplate) of the compressor, a failing valve can cause the internal components to sit at an awkward angle, leading to a faint metallic rattling or rhythmic clicking coming from the compressor area.   Pro-Tip for the Edge ST Because the Edge ST's engine bay gets very hot, these electronic solenoids are prone to heat-soak failure. The "Cheap" Fix: Many shops will tell you that you need a brand-new compressor ($800+). However, on many Ford compressors, the ECV is a replaceable part that costs around $40–$60. The Catch: You still have to evacuate the refrigerant to change the valve, so it's a job for a shop with a recovery machine.

He mentioned an electronic "compressor valve", and told me that the simptoms related to its failure, are similar to the ones I was describing. It was just a casual conversation, he hasnt seen the car yet, but I wanted to check if this was a common failure. Doing some online research i found this...  

Wouldn't that be much the same conditions as "It turns really bad in traffic"?     Could that mechanic elaborate on this valve, like where it's at and cost to replace?

Thank you for your answer. It seems like they are working properly For example, when i pick up my child from school, i sometimes wait 25 minutes with the car idling and AC on, and it keeps working fine.  

Unseat the battery terminals, and then reseat them. Try to avoid them being pressed agianst the brake canister 

Any ideas as to what else to check? 1 head light is not working   Changed bulb, ballast, fuses, switch, still not working. Checked the main ground, its fine   What could cause 1 light to fail that I have not already checked?  Anyone come across this issue?

This reminds me of servicing the CV joints on my '69 VW..😉 I think I still have the 12 point Snap-On fall off socket.

bump   any installation pics or performance gains update ?   thanks

I used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer to fix the inside of the 2 rear doors (the 2 front doors are ok). Took more time to tape/hide the surround areas and it's done. Question now is what are these 2 plastic covers at the bottom of each door? I remove them before spray but I think not to put them back. To my opinion they must be covers for the drain holes but why to cover the holes? Any ideas?