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    • A lot of changes from the Ford Edge Sport to the ST. They stiffened the front springs by 10%, the rear springs by 20%. They went from a twin tube to a monotube shock. Not sure of the brand, but a big performance boost!
    • This is  warranty situation.  This is a stock, limited, awd edge. They have fcs quick struts which you may not like.  I was able disassemble them.  The oe spetrums are have no gas charge left at 60k.  This is not a performance application.  I wonder how good the spring and strut bearing is on the fcs.  The bearings are moog, they seem to be good still.  They would have given me whatever brand I wanted and a credit.  They already ordered the quick struts.  They might not be real happy if I said I wanted kyb, then they had to return the fcs.  It was nice of them to stand by their warranty on parts, will say that.  Will buy tires from them in future.   Think the kyb or bils are better yes.   Not sure if the fcs will be similar to a stock ride?  I would be fine with a stock ride.  The shop said they are not installing a lot of monro as they have had many failures.  That is a shame as they where the go to strut in the past.     The original springs at 170 look very good, there is nothing wrong with them.  THe bellows and seats are in real good shape.  
    • If you like KYB, you will love Bilstein. Now if they had Koni for my ST....... FYI the High pressure gas shock helps tame the spring. It fools your butt into thinking you have a softer ride from "sport springs". The downside is, it is easy to die on a wash-board dirt road due to loss of control!  It was a local trip for me to the KYB when I lived in Cali. I had all kinds of KYB stuff.
    • Yes their tubes have issues.  The ones on my sedan are really good.  These had made in usa stamped on them.  I am usually happy when I see that.  I have been dealing with noise and a squatting front end for a while.  It will eventually trash the expensive tires on the car.  The ones on the car are at about 60k.  Usually you have reduced performance but frankly not enough to worry about on a Edge Explorer unless you are tracking it.  I have no fluid leaks out of these.     Some said fcs are ok.  Some said kyb are good.  I had kyb, those where very good on a taurus.  Usually when I install struts, I get a ton of mileage out of them, do not notice much of a difference.  I have had excellent experiences with sachs but they are not made for this application that I know of.   Yes, taking the spring apart is a pain but it pays off if you get 95k out of them.  The springs on my ford sedan frankly show no signs of squat, give, or handling issues.  I do wonder about the quality of the quick strut springs but you end up in a position where it is such a pain that you are almost willing to deal with it.   Do not buy cheap quick struts, that is a mistake.  Those springs are junk.  
    • Monro quality has gone down the tubes. They used to be so good but we don't even use them at my shop anymore.
    • Warning to check.  Ordered New oe spetrum struts, Monroe for the front of the Edge.  Went to install them, did not think to actually check the gas charge on the struts.  These are not quick struts.  Took a strut out, opened the left side box, the new strut was dead with no gas charge left in it.  The only plus was it was not leaking on me.  Opened the other box, the other strut was dead out of the box.  Now I have the car sitting in the garage, trying to find different struts.   I have never had bad struts out of the box.  I have 95k on another oe spetrum strut, those have no issues.  Imagine a quick strut.  You cannot even tell if the strut is dead as the spring is on it.  Kyb may be a better brand but I usually do not have an issue with Monro like this.   
    • I have had mine (2022 ST) replaced already (AGM) in less than 1 year. From reading all over, it appears that there were a bunch of bad ones  for that model.  My date of production was 11/22 and replacement 8/23!
    • Wondering how the OP worked out with the new battery and which one they went with. My 22 Edge keeps going into "battery saver mode" and it was a sluggish start for it today. (-5 degrees Fahrenheit) But whenever it gets below freezing I get the battery saver mode message. I'm not a fan of Big box store batteries. Thinking of going OEM but not sure. Mine uses the AGM battery.
    • The only scanning device I have full confidence in, is Forscan and Forscan Lite.   I cheap OBDII dongle and the free Forscan Lite is the most cost effective option.
    • I have mainly been using a handheld scanner.  The other day, someone hooked up a snap on computer.  There was no stored history of misfires or apparently vvt error codes.  I did observe short term fuel trims, even held the rpms at 3000 when watching them.  The short term and long term ones never get above .5.  The short term ones decrease slightly when running at higher rpm.     Yesterday, I did not have any stalling condition, mainly rough idle when the motor settles down to resting idle.  If there are no error codes of any kind is that absolute or could there be other ignition/fuel issues?  I am half way through the techron injector cleaner, cannot say right now if that has helped.   I replaced a new defective trans mount (anchor, dont buy one) a short while ago. I put a jack under that and the oil pan, put a bit of pressure on it, there is no difference in idle with that test.  The engine mount has 12k miles, it seems good.     I did a primitive smoke test.  I put the only hose that would fit in the valve cover breather.  I used a rubber glove on the air intake.  It did inflate that a bit.  I am not clear how much pressure I need to make smoke blow out, if that test was valid.  I did not see any smoke escaping anywhere.     I am still wondering if I am suppose to be at like 18 instead of 16.5?   I am at 900ft in elevation.  Again, the vacuum needle is dead steady, returns instantly to idle vac after reving it.   I do not know what the exact range of vac is suppose to be on this without spending hours looking through the manual.  It is 5000 pages.  The one I have is hard to search, pdf.  If the vac was low, would I need a really advanced vacuum leak test?
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