I remember some Mfg.s had an indicator to let one know when to service the filter.

Long story short... airbag light came on 3 weeks ago, then the battery died within 2 days. It was an old battery so I bought a new one and dropped it in, and did the 5x headlights 3x brake 'trick' to reset things, assuming that was sufficient. This week, the airbag light came on again, but this time, the new battery died yesterday. I jumped it, ran it for quite some time. I hadn't bothered to check codes before this, so I grabbed my OBD2 cable & started up Forscan. There were a number of codes, but only one present at the time of request. I figure the others came up due to the battery dying. So I reset the DTCs and just one code continues to come up: U0413 Invalid Data Received from Battery Energy Control Module 'B' (from the RCM)   It seems like the BECM 'B' is busted and drawing current when the vehicle is off, because... I also used Forscan to check the Battery State of Charge last night, and it was 99%. 8 hours later: 70%. I ran the vehicle for about an hour or so and it was back up in the 90s.  I searched U0413 and found one other thread on this forum, but that person also had a bunch of other errors and their issue seemed to be the RCM itself.   The BECM 'B' module looks to be PN HU5T-14G490-AF or HU5T-14G490-0C and it's like $70 new or $35 if I take the eBay plunge.  So, the questions I have for the other owners here, are... Do you think my BECM 'B' is the root cause? Or is it failing because of something else (like a short? ugh... I hope it's not a short...) Where is the BECM 'B' located, exactly? I'm cool with tearing some things apart to get to it, but I don't know where to find it... Is the BECM 'B' a plug & play / drop & replace type of part, or does it need very specific programming for my specific make/model/VIN/etc.? Since the RCM is shooting the BECM 'B' communication error, should I be worried about the RCM/airbags/SRS? Am I stuck with needing to take this to a dealer?   Thanks in advance for any suggestions or insight!    

The free flow air filters obviously allow more damaging particulate to pass through which is the most significant factor for me, but many are misled by the claims of increased power.   There are other components that dictate the maximum air the engine can ingest. 

Welcome.   14.8v seems a little high.   When you replaced the battery did you reset the BMS (Battery Monitoring System)?   It could also be a parasitic drain - do a search for that and you'll find a few good YouTube videos on how.   Places like AutoZone have testers that check the CCA, Cranking Voltage, and Charge rates - have them do that.

Wanting to spend a few hundred dollars wisely? Drive through the poor section of your town and drop 30 $10 dollar bills out the window or, pick an Angel off the Christmas Tree @ the mall.   Watch the video before you spend your hard earned $$$$!    

Anyone have this problem?  I just put a new battery in about 3 weeks ago. Wife called yesterday and was stuck at a QT. Said car was dead. Got there and like before when I replaced battery there were no dash lights or interior lights.  So I jumped the car and it started just fine. I then drove it home (20 mi) and turned car off.  Then decided to go to auto zone and have alternator tested. Turned car of there and they did a battery test (not sure kid who tested it got good connection since he was having problems with meter) and it tested bad.  So I pulled battery and took it back to Costco to have it tested to get another battery.  It tested as 12.2 volts and 860 CCA available on a 660 CCA battery.  This morning started car and everything good.  Stuck a volt meter on battery before start and it was 12.2 volts then started car and it read 14.8 volts, so don’t think it’s the alternator.  Any ideas were to check next.  This seems to be very intermittent.

Yes, i saw a youtube video about that oil supply line for the drivers side turbo on 2.7TT engines... The weird thing is that I see no smoke coming out the exhaust, nor oil marks in the garage floor...   Im planing to get the gasket for the valve cover and maybe that oil supply line....

I was able to to finalize it last weekend. Each radar must be connected to MS can, power and gnd. Indicator led pins are in mirror connectors. Activation in IPC and door modules.  Works perfectly.

Probably not the issue, but something to think about or get ideas. There was a TSB for the 2013-2015 FWD 3.5 EcoBoost (link) that fixed the smoking with changing the PCV cover adapter. 

I posted here back in January. A handful of us have chatted within here, on other FB groups etc.  Something we all reported on was it was more apparent on consuming when the vehicle was idling or remote started.  I did 3 rounds of oil consumption tests paid for by the dealer. I noticed that the one time the vehicle lost half a quart, within a 1000 mile span. Otherwise everything was in spec on oil consumption. After tons of analysis and paying attention to when sometime the blue/white smoke is visible I noticed when the vehicle idles for say 30 mins. I can drive parking lot speeds and get some nice smoke, the smoke doesn't linger to bad, and is certainly not thick or alarming. I believe its a turbo pooling the oil then burning it. Why it's so intermittent I couldn't tell you. I reduced my idling and remote starts and haven't noticed the issue. Removed the catch-can just in case, no change, replaced the PCV valve, no change.  I've ruled out the easy things, a TSB exists for a turbo oil supply line for f150, been considering replacing my line but havent looked deep into it to see if the part changed at all for the Edge