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The Way I read it is: 1. At a stop or below 15mph activate the forward camera. 2. Drive car to a speed above 15mph - camera automatically turns off. 3. Come to a stop or slow down below 15 mph and activate the forward camera again. 4. Forward camera fails to operate as expected.

My 2011 LTD exhibited this behavior at about 100K miles, APIM had to be replaced. (Accessory Protocol Interface Module) A common issue.

It's not just a river in Egypt... Look, you will eventually need to replace the battery, I would save myself the headaches and replace the battery already. There are a lot of posts on this forum about weird random electrical issues that have all been resolved by replacing the battery. Myself included. In my 2011, a battery never made it past the 24 month full replacement warranty. My 2019 Just had a cracked battery replaced under warranty. If you still have issues then you've eliminated a possibility and you don't have to worry about the battery being the problem. YMMV.

I was loading a U-haul connected to my ST last week and I saw the lights go on on the trailer for no reason. I didn't think much of it at the time, then I saw this thread.

https://repairpal.com/estimator/ford/edge/sunroof-motor-replacement-cost That site says the motor replacement is $544 to $632 parts and labor. $15,000 sounds outrageous, more than the vehicle is worth. Shop around.

Click on the username in the left side of their post. If you click on "theoldwizard1" you will get a list of posts and topics.

That is one of the reasons I carry a jump start battery in the car. The other is I hate seeing people hook up 2 cars via jumper cables, there is so much that can go wrong and both batteries will suffer. IF I see someone in a parking lot with the hood up (and I have time) I will usualy ask if they need a jump start.

https://treadconnection.com/plugged-tires/ 14,000 will show significant enough ware on any tire to change the overall size enough to mess up the AWD system. Didn't you get the road hazard warranty?

I was experiencing the same issues in my '19 ST at about 21K, I wasn't going to take a trip to the dealer for them to tell me it was fine, I waited until it would not start one morning. Jump started and drove to the dealer. I saw the tech come and put paperwork on my service writers desk after parking my car in the service lane, the service writer wasn't at his desk so I went over and read the diagnosis: Battery cracked and leaking, replaced. Online service history says: SERVICES PERFORMED Electrical TOTAL COST $0

It turns off the alarm telling you your car is too close to the drive thru sign. So that you are not distracted whilst ordering your favorite fast food meal or hot beverage.

Why not something like this instead? https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Tow-Receiver-Brake-Hole/dp/B07VKCW64R?th=1 slides in to your hitch receiver and plugs in to the trailer light hookup, no fuss. Cheaper?

Welcome from a 2019 ST owner. Buy it - buy it now! (clean Carfax and everything else checks out of course) I won't tell you to have fun with your new ride, I don't need to.

My guess would be that the recharge you put in leaked out the same way as the refrigerant that was in it, try a can of the recharge with the die in it to see where the leak is.

Try pairing another phone to sync, a friend or relative, doesn't matter you can always delete it. Delete your phone from sync first. If the issue persists on the just paired phone then you've narrowed it down to sync, otherwise it could be a setting on your phone.

Hmmm.....as a 38 year IT guy. your choice of phone OS makes me sad. ? (?)

2-5 satellites seems to me like a very low number, where is the vehicle located? With an older unit the gps almanac has to be updated for the unit to track the satellites orbits. The almanac is transmitted every 12.5 minutes, so after a hard reset like you did, the cold gps start may take some time. If you are in a city with tall buildings you may be having trouble getting the almanac as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time_to_first_fix#:~:text=Almanac data can be received,for up to 180 days.

I really hate that android auto strips Waze of the useful features that make it unique. So I found a phone mount that requires no modification, and zero installation. When not using it it slides off and is put in that top compartment. It's magnetic attachment, but changing the phone attachment to a gripper is easy. It's inexpensive, I paid less than $12 for it. Seems Solid and sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L7TCZJL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is intended for the vent clip but I turned it over so that the opening of the vent clamp was at the bottom, you will need to extend the C Hook out quite a way with the locking knob. Then I just slip the C hook underneath the top dash panel where it goes into the compartment, close the lid and it will stay there, nice and secure (YMMV). Your Phone, depending on the size, might block your view of the upper left corner of the center screen The home button and the drivers side set temperature are obscured for me, but I can still press the home button.

My 2019 has a 4G hotspot, but I don't believe the onboard navigation system requires any connectivity. The maps are updated via wi-fi or usb drive, the traffic updates are broadcast by SiriusXM Travel Link.

Hi Linda, What is the temperature like inside and outside the car? Does the heat keep up? It seems to me you are either not getting enough heat or enough air flow thru the defrost vents. Has the cabin air filter been changed recently? Can you feel the air flow change from vents to defrost to heat when you adjust between defrost and auto? Is the airflow strong out of the various vents? Possibly the actuator that controls where the air flows is not working properly?

Why not just go with something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Comfortable-Electric-2200mAh-Rechargeable-Resistant/dp/B07W5Z6GCX/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2IZFX9461H1U1&keywords=heated%2Bdriving%2Bgloves%2Bfor%2Bmen%2Brechargeable&qid=1642709140&sprefix=heated%2Bdrivin%2Bgloves%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-3-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ0FZUksxQjJXOTBGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTc1MTgxM0I3N0hMV1A3QzlXUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzk2NDQxMUhJWEI4VzRLS0lHRyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1&psc=1

So there is an issue with this type of testing that may hide the true output capability. As you can see from the photo of the Drok, it has 2 output ports. Port 1 is a data link port (data/charging pass thru) Port 2 is a Charge only port. If you plug a battery or headphones directly into the console USB ports, the sync screen will cycle and complain quite annoyingly that the device is not compatible - unplug it, so to measure the battery I used port 2. However for proper USB Charging above the USB 2.0 spec, the charged device communicates back to the charger to tell the charger what it can take. This handshake can not happen on a charge only port. Without this handshake, an advanced charger would set the output to max USB 2.0 levels. So I really can't tell what the port is capable of without a device that can take full charging and is compatible with sync. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I would be interested to see what the USB-C port in the newer models is capable of and if the newer ports can be retrofitted to the 2019.

I plugged my DROC meter into the USB port of my 2019 ST, then plugged my Galaxy S21 Ultra at 80% in to the meter: 5.08V @1.47A, which is the same as from my best 65 watt wall charger. The android auto activation put the charging amps down to 1.22A I unplugged the phone and plugged a USB C portable battery into the meter and got 5.01V @ 2.16A. the wall charger hits 9.0V and 1.95A with this device.

You could measure the power usage with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3JSEG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a thread that talks about the EQ vs surround sound setting for the sony system:

If I remember correctly, there is a "dynamic" or surround enhancement setting that disables the EQ settings, if you can find that in the sound settings, you can turn it off and get your base and treble settings.