akirby

Get a hitch from etrailer.com and install it yourself for less than $200.

Not true (yet). Under consideration to be replaced with the new similar sized BEVs but that hasn’t been decided and probably won’t S is more of a negotiating tactic for the new union contract.

Just replace it.

Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic also meets api sn plus now.

Is it really worth the investment? Wouldn’t you get a lot more with a tuner?

Some dealers aren’t following the repair procedure. Try a different dealer.

Never heard of brake fluid viscosity being an issue even in cold climates. Brake fluid is super thin to begin with but I guess low viscosity wouldn’t hurt.

I don’t see how any of them would perform any differently.

Go register at blueovalforums.com - all the order guides are posted there.

The BCM communication is probably for the accessory delay feature. Other than that it should work the same. If you can get the OEM parts cheap then it’s easier to justify.

Ford has had ST-Line models in Europe for many years - alongside ST models. This is not new.

Wouldn't it be cheaper/easier to just buy one of these and wire it into the connector? https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300W-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/B07Y9M1H88?ref_=s9_apbd_omg_hd_bw_b2RkW&pf_rd_r=92K5TKT119G0JCSES4CF&pf_rd_p=ef88a328-5802-52f1-a22b-1f46a5201df0&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=583328

Ive said this many times. I would have preferred the 2.0Leb over the 3.7L in our MKX. I just miss that almost instant torque off the line.

That's all explained in the owner's manual. If you don't have one you can get the online version from owner.ford.com or www.motorcraftservice.com.

I just bought a Rennstand safe jack - should work great on the MKX or any unibody vehicle. A little pricey though. https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/safe-jack-rennstand-by-safe-jack-18m-rs3/_/R-SAJK-18M-RS3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrbfKg_LC6QIVF6SzCh2vqgbNEAQYASABEgK8mvD_BwE&ecmp=s:google_9816045574_100845004460__pla-670529025983_Safe Jack_S/J18M-RS3_base_US&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIrbfKg_LC6QIVF6SzCh2vqgbNEAQYASABEgK8mvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!7836!3!430284196293!!!g!670529025983!&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SC Shopping - NTM Desktop&ecmp=s:google_9816045574_100845004460__pla-670529025983

It should be mechanical as it's used to get the vehicle into neutral when the battery is dead.

Reports were it was completely disabled but I don't think we ever got an official answer.

Also true but that's what the software update disabled midway through the 2019 model year.

It was disabled sometime during the 2019 model year. Software updates will disable it on early build 2019s.

You probably just need a new battery. They rarely last more than 3-4 years on modern vehicles. A weak battery can cause all sorts of strange issues. I’d replace it then see if you continue to have problems.

Use less brake pressure.

Not destructive at all. I have pool noodles to cushion it. I’ve used tennis balls and a laser pointer but this works well. No damage.

Fusion and MKZ, 2007-2009 most likely. Can't remember if the 2010 models changed the wheel specs. If not then 2010-2012 also.

Mine doesn't do this. I park my F150 in the garage and I have to ease into the last foot and actually bump into the wall and it never shuts off until I put it in park and turn it off with the key. Or are you saying that once you stop with your foot on the brake it shuts off but restarts when you put it into park? That's normal. There is no reason to have auto-stop-start in Park. Once you're in Park you can turn the engine on or off yourself.