akirby

We'll overlook it since you found that cool film for the grille........

You do on the 08 which is what Jim5506 has.

But they gave you the name and that seemed to be all TCP Global needed - so why are you still complaining? MB would have probably just repainted it for you and charged you $1200.

I haven't seen anything here that would indicate the need for regular reboots. Under what circumstances is that necessary with 3.02?

Itunes Export also works great on Windows.

Even Mercedes paints their dash. If it flaked off by itself that would be one thing, but you damaged it yourself. You damaged it - you fixed it for $35 - I don't see the problem.

You shouldn't have to reboot 3.0.2.

Nope. Still has to be enabled at the factory.

If the update from usb didn't work right the first time what makes you think just "plugging in a usb drive with the file on it" will work? The file has to be installed with the entire package. It could also be a storage problem with the APIM.

It's real but it has a protective coating that makes it feel fake.

Just to clarify - the rear door speakers are 2 way speakers thus why Ford counts them twice. It's a little iffy but at least they're consistent about it.

I'd almost guarantee that Chevy loaner came from the dealer. You have a bad Ford dealer and as Joe suggested you need to find another one that can accommodate you. Hard to blame Ford for not wanting to pay for a rental for what could and should be a one hour fix. Try disconnecting the negative battery cable and try the upgrade again just to be safe.

You can if you try to unload a big green egg (large) by yourself.

Be aware that the internet pricing sites like edmunds or kbb or cars.com do not include the local advertising fee. This is a legitimate fee paid by the dealer to Ford and is included in the actual dealer invoice price. It typically runs $400-$600 per vehicle so be sure to add that to the edmunds or kbb price to accurately estimate the actual dealer invoice.

I would recommend letting a body shop do it if you don't have any experience.

I don't think that's what the polishing ball is made for - you really need a DA polisher with the right pads and a lot of experience. You can burn through your clearcoat very quickly.

I'm not discounting your problems at all. But your problems do not compare with others who have the upgrade. And we know for a fact there are bad APIMs out there and at least one case a bad APIM was replaced with another bad one before the 3rd one corrected the problems. How can bad hardware write protect a usb drive? I've seen bad hardware do all sorts of strange unexpected things. It's totally unpredictable. Perhaps the APIM thinks it's writing to internal storage when it's actually writing to the USB device. Memory problems are totally unpredictable. But how do you know for sure that your computer isn't write protecting the drive before it goes into the car? It's possible. Do what you normally do to update the HD and unplug it but don't actually plug it into the car. Plug it back into the computer and see if it's write protected. Then plug it into the car and see if you can reproduce the problem. This will tell you absolutely for sure whether it's MFT or the computer. Your symptoms (compared to others) point to a hardware problem. You say you're taking it in but then you continue to blame the software which at this point is possible but seems much less likely. All I'm asking is you hold off on the kvetching until you get the APIM checked and/or replaced again because there is a good chance that will fix your problem.

Are you going to keep posting the same thing over and over and over or are you finally going to take it back to the dealer to at least attempt to get a new APIM? Except for the known bugs most of your symptoms point to bad hardware and no new software revision is going to fix that.

Could be part of the limp home programming. If so that's pretty smart.

Don't remember that on my 08 - must be new on the 2011+.

Me, too. But that wouldn't affect the A/C would it?

Except new thermostats are designed to fail in the open position. Not guaranteed of course so it is possible it stuck closed but not as likely as it used to be. Another thought is the drive belt - if it was slipping that would affect both the water pump and the A/C compressor.

Have the folks who have either pulled fuse 29 or the battery cable or did a master reset continued to have problems? I'm wondering if the software just needs a clean start after the install to get back in sync (pun intended).

Yes. If you can see it in the small screen then what difference does it make? Sucks for the passenger but not the driver.

I didn't think so, thus the question. I'm sure it was the coolant temp.