akirby

I like it a lot better than the old one, although I do think it could be a bit smaller.

Joy rides?

Love the last one.

I hope this is a good lesson for you. Your dad was absolutely right - if you could afford to spend thousands on this kit then you should be paying for your own school. Priorities.

Auto mode seems to work fine for most everyone else. Just because it doesn't work like YOU want it to doesn't point to a lack of attention. Just a different design.

Same with our 08. And just about every Ford SUV/CUV we've owned going back to a 93 explorer. Why they can't seem to fix this is beyond me.

You guys know the rules. This is you and kc300c's last warning.

It's obvious this is a bug in that sometimes it displays it and sometimes it doesn't. Should get fixed in the next upgrade.

It's not a "money grab" - they just haven't figured out how to make them replaceable yet. They do save weight and they don't pit over time like chromed steel. I'm sure the aftermarket will come up with a solution soon. Until then it does suck but it's not limited to Ford.

Maybe it is going to full speed. When you go to 60 (max cool) it also goes to recirculate which makes the fan sound like it's going faster but it's really not. Next time try bumping up the fan speed manually and see where it is set and if you can increase it. It goes by the ambient air temp. Perhaps it *feels* hotter to you because the seats and steering wheel are hot. I just turn my temp down to 60 if I want rapid cooling and then put it back to 70 or 72 when it's comfortable.

Sorry, I thought you meant the cabin hvac fan. I don't hear the external fan on mine. I always use Auto - just set it and forget it. Adjust the temp just like you adjust the thermostat at home. You can change the fan speed just by adjusting the temp up or down or turning it off temporarily. It's a great feature and I don't understand why people don't use it (my 17 yr old daughter being one).

The fan has nothing to do with whether the A/C is engaged or not. I think the extra wear and impact to fuel economy is negligible, thus the recommendation to ignore it.

Ditto. Thank goodness they built a Target close to us.

Autolock will lock the doors automatically above 20 mph or so. Autounlock will unlock the doors automatically when the car is put into Park and the driver's door is opened (key may have to be removed also - not sure). If you don't like the unlock then just disable the autolocks altogether and they won't be locked. The front doors on all Fords (that I know of at least) will open even if locked. Rear doors do not - presumably due to child safety (in case you're not using the child safety locks. But as pointed out, just pull up on the lock to unlock. My daughter's Focus is strange in that you pull once on the rear door handle to unlock, then pull again to open. Takes some getting used to but it is more convenient than finding and pulling up on the lock - if you remember that's how it works. It was a little disconcerting on the test drive. Also - there is only one lock button in the center of the dash - it toggles. Also different.

Serious answer: this wouldn't work even if FORD wanted to do it because FORD doesn' t make a DIME on an engine flush. Ford recommends against it because it could actually damage the engine and it's simply not necessary. Stop being so paranoid.

That's just it - there is no top to pop on the newer vehicles - they're capless and they have an anti-tamper feature - thus the need to use the supplied funnel to add gas or other additives.

It should be pointed out that Ford recommends against any fuel additives.

I agree - but a lot of people think they have to turn the A/C off when they don't really need to.

You really don't need to control the A.C manually - just leave it on auto and let it do it's job. It dehumidifies the air even when it's cold outside.

You have the odds backwards. The odds are in Ford's favor meaning you are more likely to spend more on the warranty than Ford will have to pay out. I think this is what you meant anyway. They wouldn't be selling the warranties if they didn't make money on them on average - and if they're making money on average then you're losing money on average.

At this point all you're selling is parts that may or may not work as advertised and may or may not be complete. You can't expect people to shell out big bucks just on your word without any proof.

If you have the money (or credit) to pay for a big repair you'll save money in the long run by self-insuring (not buying the extended warranty). You can always gamble and get lucky on one or two vehicles but the odds are not in your favor. If you'd rather finance it with the vehicle to avoid any large bills later then that makes sense - just understand that over the long run you're probably paying more. The only one worth having is the Ford ESP plan.

But you haven't proven that you've "done it". The builder says it wasn't finished and you have no proof it even works other than "I said so". Coupled with the fact that you're selling it with this story and any reasonable person would be suspicious.

And proof that the transmission and PTU are still in one piece.

It would be slightly more believable if you had before and after dyno runs.