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Just spoke to their sales guy and not sure I want to bother with this unit. Seems like the details are a bit sketchy at this point what it can do and how it operates. But from he said you have to activate the lockpick every time you want to use it and it is only active for 60 seconds. I was hoping you could activate it and it would stay latched in that mode through power cycles, with this if you want to input an address while in motion you'd have to activate and start the input within 60 seconds...after that it times out and you are in regular mode. I asked about the video input and iPod interface but he said they couldn't get it working smoothly enough. Not sure how they can push two camera inputs to the screen but not another video source. I also asked him to confirm that the system works with the new software out from Ford, he said yes but seemed unaware that the software was completely rewritten by Ford and released in March. So I am still left with enough questions about how this works and given the less than stellar after sales support I have heard of this is a skip for me. Just can't justify spending that much for questionable results.

But what is considered cold? As much as I would like to improve braking performance I don't want to sacrifice braking distances in the winter. Especially since I live in a hilly area so it is very possible to have ice cold brake rotors and go down a large hill (25% grade for a mile). I have read posts on other forums where people had issues with winter performance but to be fair they were running full race pads. Maybe the best approach is to make sure the rating doesn't drop significantly between hot and cold...that way even if their cold is 70F the chances that the coefficient changes much for the delta T is pretty minimal.

ANy experience with the Reds when cold? And by cold I mean winter use.

We drove in snow several times last season on the stock all seasons. I would say it was similar to my previous Subaru. You could always get to where you wanted to go but you knew there was wheel slip happening. In our Audi you don't get the same sensation of wheel slippage. This year if I can find a good deal on a set we will be picking up a set of dedicated snows. While we were always able to get going the all seasons did leave a bit to be desired in turning and braking in messy conditions.

I saw that and posted a thread about the lockpick a little while back...I do have some concerns about it s functionality though. I still have to call them to try to clarify some of what I read. Also somewhat concerns me that the pics are from the old software.

We had the bidirectional installed last winter and love it. Originally I wanted to go with the integrated key since I hate a bunch of crap on my keyring. But in this case I can deal with it because the range is pretty good. I would say originally I thought the shorter range would be OK since we are typically close but with the longer range we are able to start the car cooling/warming a bit sooner and actually have a comfortable vehicle by the time we get there. Used it for this purpose two weekends ago. We were at the fair and it was crazy hot and humid, hit the button, heard the beep and knew the car was running. By the time we got there the cool air was a relief. So I would think start thinking about other times you might use it other than just your house and office and see what really fits. As for the shock sensor I would avoid it. Not sure if this one is any better but my last car had one and it sucked. Originally it was so sensitive it would go off all the time. Found out the only way to adjust it was with the SSM (Subaru tool), the dealer did it once for free but subsequent changes would be 100 bucks. After they adjusted it the only time it went off is if I got on my hitch and jumped. If this system were adjustable through the cluster then it might be worth it...otherwise I would pass.

Yeah I guess it depends on what you want to carry. For me I would still need it to have a rise since the hitch level is right at exhaust level and moving it back just a little bit would still be pushing pretty high temps on the tray. Also I would be concerned about transitions. The further it sticks out without getting a riser means you are more likely to bottom it out. The Edge is surprising low, especially compared to some other vehicles I have put these trays on.

Wasn't sure the right place to post this so if Akirby thinks it belongs somewhere else please move. But I stumbled across this deal tonight on M1 5W-20, with codes and free shipping through Shoprunner (if you have an account) you can get the oil delivered to you door for about 20 bucks a jug with tax! Here is a link to the thread: http://slickdeals.net/f/5045502-Mobil-1-Fully-Synthetic-5w20-Oil-5-qt-Jug-21-99-tax-FS-with-Shoprunner

Well at first it was way the hell off reading 100% almost all the time, then I realized the displacement was set for the Audi. Once I changed that it was much better but still pretty high. I did see a bunch of threads on various forums where people were stating it was reporting high but nothing on the Edge. This is one explaination I found: http://obdcon.sourceforge.net/2010/06/about-pid-calculated-load-value/ based on that I would guess the Ford is using PID43 since it is based on air mass per stroke and as mentioned above it changed with displacement. Just wasn't sure what was typical in the way Ford is calculating it.

DIngo can you confirm what kind of engine loads you see on the Edge? I seem to be seeing higher numbers than I would expect. I did find a few sources that indicate there are different ways this is calculated and there are two different PIDs for this but either way on fairly flat roads moderate acceleration would indicate 100% even when it felt like the engine had more to give. Idle was higher than expected too...I thik the Audi was less than 5% where I think the lowest I saw on the Edge was maybe 20 something.

I haven't driven the others to comment but I so think it is poor reporting to state the V6 should be avoided when all they talk about are ride and infotainment issues then say the turbo is good. Just more people talking crap. The funny thing is these same people probably complained about the softer ride in the previous models and how it had too much roll.

Wow, was poking around Youtube and found this: Very clean looking install, like the idea of this especially if I start messing around with the torque application since it will give me plenty of real estate for the gauges.

What bothers me about the article most is that they specifically call out the V6 but they don't state what specifically is bad with the V6. They mention things like ride and controls but that would be common with the turbo'd four which they state works well and get better mpg. Just makes no sense. I am fine with them hating on the ride but at least if you call out a specific engine have a real reason for doing so.

This was a big issue in NJ recently for the red light cams. It turned out that they had documented before the installation that the timing was correct. So they were all shut off until they could be tested and they claimed all were correct. Then I heard some story about reporters being taken out to verify operation and they found they were off. Hopefull it will be a continuing trend that these start coming off line.

And what is your benchmark for sludge? Have you torn the engine down? As mentioned above there were people using M1 in the 1.8T and still got sludge in <100k. Oil alone isn't the only determining factor; you have to have a quality filter and a well designed system. The problem as I have stated before is you don't know about these issues until you already have a problem. To the OP's original question...I can't believe you or anyone on BITOG forums would suggest pushing the stock oil and filter (not know to be among the best) beyond the 10k....that just makes no sense at all. Now if someone wanted to do that with higher end oil and filters and did some UOA to confirm it was OK that is one thing. But I still think you are rolling the dice.

Well I got mine yesterday and it did see the ECU on the Edge and on the Audi which is good but really haven't had much time to play with it. The little bit I did play with makes me question some of the gauges but I will double check with my laptop just to verify. Either way a pretty cool little device, not bad to have in the car if you have an aging vehicle.

Again I am not discounting that M1 0W40 is quality lubricant. What I am stating is that manufacturers do make mistakes. Audi did with the 1.8T and even in their revised recommendations that basically require M1 use they also dropped the OCI to 5k. There were people using M1 on the original 10k OCI that had sludge. So what I am saying is that quality lube alone is not enough. If there are issues with the design of the engine it greatly affects the oil and this does not always show in an UOA. Often this is only seen after it is too late. Changing the oil more frequently doesn't damage the engine so I would rather spend and extra $40 a year and not have to worry about sludge at all.

The APIM is the main board for the MFT, it is similar to a computers motherboard and should not need periodic replacement. But not unlike MB's they can fail or have bad components that can cause problems and require replacement. But with that said replacement doesn't always fix the issues. I don't think anyone really knows why some people have so many issues and other have so few. My system was OK with a few glitches, then I upgraded to 2.11 and it was horrible. To the point of being completely useless. But teh rewritten software has been a huge improvement. Even though lately it has been acting up it is still leap and bonds more stable than before. But some have seen the opposite happen. So I hope a new APIM is the solution for you but with the MFT nothing is 100%.

One thing I didn't mention that should also be considered. Dealers do not seem to subscribe to the OCI per dash display. This can be an issue later if you have problems since they are your first line of support to get something warrantied. The other problem is they do not record anywhere on your service records what % oil life was left. So I think it may be difficult later to prove you do everything by the book so to speak. The only thing that might save your a$$ is if Ford logs the alarm somewhere if you go over.

Again I agree that in most cases OCI's of 5k are overkill. But the problem is engineers make mistakes and you likely won't know until you already have a problem and are well out of warranty. When the sludge issues started cropping up on the forums there were a few people that had Blackstone UOA and they showed nothing of concern. Luckily for those people Audi stepped up and covered repairs but that is not something I would count on. So since I have seen several people get burned by following the manufacturers recommendations I am a bit gun shy and would rather be conservative. As Ladybird mentioned oil is cheap compared to an engine.

Thanks for that link to the Torque wiki...not sure I saw that page but that was similar info to other things I read indicating that some units are hit and miss. I ended up ordering from Amazon just because of the return policy...hoping I don't need to use it.

I can give that a shot...I did try to flip the bar over and mount the sides on upside down. The through holes are slightly off center so I thought it would be enough. It was close but not quite enough and since the center bar was higher you wouldn't have a flat packing surface so I ditched that idea. But flipping it around should work, might just have to figure out a quicker mount dismount idea. I would rather this work without having to carry around two wrenches. But good idea, maybe I can mess with this more tomorrow. Going to take teh little guy to the fair today.

Well as promised...put something together and it isn't quite what I had hoped for but might be workable. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/10561-folding-cargo-carrier/page__gopid__83215&do=findComment&comment=83215

Well I thought I stumbled upon a good deal and a decent set up but now I am not sure. I recently saw an ad for Harbor Frieght saying their stel cargo carrier was on sale for 40 bucks. My buddy has one that I borrowed once before and it was good enough quality for my purposes and for $40 I can beat it. So I ran over this week and grabbed one but also ran over to Walmart to pick up their Hitch Haul folding adapter hoping the two would work together. I was able to confirm they do but not quite sure I like the way it fits on the Edge. Pros: Has enough space between the carrier and the bumber for you to easily access the hatch area. The extra space and slight lift should be plenty to keep the cargo from melting due to exhaust temps. The rails will help support the cargo and make securing the load easier. Cons: The rails also make loads that are slightly wider harder to fit. The carrier rails also just touch the bumper. So my first thought was to pick up some pipe insulation to wrap the portion that touches the bumper. I figured this would prevent any sort of marking especially since the area of contact is the unpainted surface anyway. But part of me is worried this may be a bad idea and I might be better served getting a cargo carrier that has the angle iron sides. If I go that route I should gain at least two inches of clearance and I could possibly make and adaptor for my bikes. But I would lose some stability for the load. Below are some pics of the current setup...no dirty car comments...I know it is but have given up she will clean it. Please keep in mind I have a Curt hitch installed which sticks out further than most so for you may have to go with the angle iron style. Any thoughts or suggestions? Really not sure which way to go. Might just pick up the pipe insulation and se what I think before running around looking for another carrier and retuning this one.

Thanks Dingo...probably place the order this weekend to give it a shot.