fishx65

Definitely a bad CV axle and most likely the passenger side. Fairly easy and inexpensive repair.

Exactly how is your strut mount damaged? Besides worn bearings, I really can't see how an upper strut mount can go bad. Are you sure the 4 upper mounting bolts are torqued properly? I, unnecessarily, replaced an upper strut mount a few months ago thinking it was the cause of a clicking sound I had.

It could definitely be front swaybar end links. I had to replace mine at about 80,000 miles on my 2011. Bad links will make a clunking sound when going over bumps. Just like I did with my CV axle, I used cheap aftermarket links the first time and had to replace them almost immediately. I ended up replacing them with a set of Moogs that have zerk fittings and they've been perfect.

If it's a steady loud clicking noise when turning at low speeds the odds are extremely high that it's a bad CV axle. I drove my Edge for about 30,000 miles before I got around to replacing it a few weeks ago. Good news is, it's a fairly inexpensive repair especially if you have the ability to do it yourself with the help of some great Youtube vids. I had to replace mine twice because I made the big mistake of using an aftermarket CV axle that I purchased at Autozone. Even if you don't do it yourself, make sure that it's replaced with a Motorcraft axle. Mine was the passenger side.

Make sure to check if your Edge's tray has room for a bigger battery. Not sure about the newer Edges but the 11-14 could take the bigger battery even if they weren't originally equipped with it. If I remember correctly, Edges with remote start already had the larger battery.

Not sure if it's common but the CV axle I purchased at Autozone is not balanced or the CV joints are bad. I'm getting a shimmy when accelerating and it seems to be getting worse. I will be replacing it with a genuine Ford part and getting a refund from Autozone. I highly recommend grabbing one from the stealership for $170.00. Just a quick update: The brand new Auto Zone axle had a really bad inner CV joint. Put the Motorcraft CV axle in last night and it's perfect:) Only took a half hour this time!!

It was pretty easy to get the new CV axle in. I crawled under and held it in place while a buddy tapped it in with a rubber mallet. The whole job from start to finish took about an hour and a half and was exactly how it looked in that TRQ Youtube vid. I just used a floor jack and jack stand to lift the passenger side. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs so I just cranked the axle nut on with a hunk of pipe which was probably pretty close to 268 ft lbs. Paid $130.00 for the new axle and a 36mm socket from Autozone. No more clicking when turning to the right!!!! It was way easier than I thought it would be:) The $575 quote you received for both sides seems extremely reasonable if it includes both CV axles.

There's a pretty good "How-to" Youtube video by TRQ which makes it look super easy. Ran out to Autozone this morning and grabbed the CV Axle and a 36mm socket. Only took me a half hour to get the axle out but will wait for a friend this afternoon to install the new one. Definitely worth doing if you have the time and a little mechanical ability. I'll edit this post later if I run into any snags putting the new one in.

I just replaced the passenger side strut mount hoping it was the clicking problem in my 2011 SEL. It wasn't so I'm gonna replace the CV axle next. Looks like a fairly easy job so I'm thinking of just grabbing one at Autozone for $110.00 and doing it myself. Mine clicks while turning right at slow speed.

After some research I decided to slowly change out the specialty green with the newer yellow coolant by doing about 4 radiator drain and refills. I did find a few gallons of specialty green for sale but might as well get it changed over since Ford stopped making the green.

If they shine about 3 feet the odds are really high that the bulbs are not installed properly. Someone probably missed a tab and they're both at an angle. That said, 11-14 Edge's have very weak headlights if they came with halogen bulbs. I've run Hids in my 2011 for years but I suppose there are some good LED options out there by now.

That HID kit should be fine. They're all pretty much just cheap Chinese kits at that price range. I finally had a bulb go out in my 2011 yesterday which has been sporting a $45.00 35/5000 DDM kit for almost 10 years.

I usually have it set around 70-73 degrees. Outside temps are below 40. I just reset the system with the power/defrost buttons and there was no change. I hear the blower going in auto mode but nothing is coming out the panel vents. If I switch to panel it blows heat just fine.

I'm having a problem with the heat not blowing on just the auto setting (2011 SEL with manual controls). The panel, floor, defrost or any combo blows just fine it's just the auto setting that's not working.

My 2011 SEL finally has it's 1st problem at 126,000:( It's got manual controls and the auto temp setting is not blowing air. Sounds like the blower is running but nothing comes out of any vents no matter which ones I choose. Even if I crank the temp setting up to 80 degrees it doesn't blow. Manual settings like defrost work fine so that's how I'm heating my Edge right now. Any ideas why auto mode is not working properly?????

Thanks. Gonna take a look and see if I can find a way to spray some rustproofing inside the rockers.

I live in a rust belt and was just wondering where your 2011-2014 Edges are showing rust? Been doing a little rust checking on my 2011 and found some on the bottom lip of the tailgate but the doors were just fine. Ended up having to remove the entire bead of body caulk and redoing the bottom edge. Would like to spray some rustproofing in the problem areas before it starts.

I've just learned to live with the stiff ride of my 2011 SEL but I do keep my tires right at 31 PSI which helps quite a bit.

Tires at 32psi will help a lot and adding weight will also help. Weight can be added around the spare under the rear panel. I added a couple bags of tube sand to the back of my Rents 2011 and it definitely helped smooth her out.

This guy makes it look pretty easy without a lift and makes me want to tackle this job myself. Sorry Mac, he made it look easier then your vid:):):)

Got a chance to investigate the clicking a little closer and it's definitely the strut mounts and not the axle. The coil spring is binding up especially when it's cold. Gonna be a little more expensive than I was hoping:(:(

Thanks Paul, really helpful.:) I was surprised how cheap they are even at AA and AZ.

Maybe a dumb question but how do you tell which side is bad? I've had one clicking for a long time on my 2011 SEL and want to replace it. I've always thought it was the passenger side but I want to be sure before I pickup the new one.

I'm guessing 255/60/18s will rub a little but please let us know if you end up going with that size. I personally just like the looks of a wider tire.:):)

Got a clicky passenger side CV joint on my 2011 FWD SEL. Anyone here do this job themselves lately? I usually do repairs like this myself and was just wondering if it's worth it. Looks like a whole new shaft is only around a hundred bucks. Any particular brand better then others?