fishx65

Make sure ya don't purchase the factory tray that goes in the center console. The ones on Amazon for around $16.00 are deeper and way nicer.

I think I found an easier solution to this issue. I was able to slide a screw driver under the clip and rotate it a little to lift it up. I then slid a thick piece of felt under the end of the clip and dropped it back down. I purchased a pack of those round stick-on felt pads that go on the bottom of kitchen chair legs from the Dollar Tree. The one I used was the size of a nickel. The very annoying tick is completely gone!!!!:) I had to redo this felt pad solution because it eventually compressed too much and the rattle came back. I ended up using a round piece of plastic about the size and thickness of a nickel with felt stuck to both sides. Just sticking felt to both sides of an actual nickel would also work well.

I haven't looked yet but I'm guessing my 22 ST-Line with tow package is missing this shield. What is the reason to add this piece if it's missing???? I already added the missing hood insulation and ordered the engine cover with hopes of them dampening the noisy 2.0.

Picked up a 2022 ST-Line last week and the engine is crazy loud compared to my 2011 3.6. I ordered the hood insulation pad which I'm picking up this morning and thinking about the foam engine cover. Will these do a decent job at masking fuel pump and injector noise????

Been on this great forum for a long time but finally decided to sell my 2011 and get something else. Well, that something else turned out to be a 22 ST-Line so I guess I'm not going anywhere:):)

I'd try to figure out which wire in the headlight harness powers the shield that opens and closes to see if it's getting power. Not sure if it has it's own fuse.

Kinda sad because I find the Edge the perfect sized SUV for my usage. Probably gonna look at a 4Runner next year.

The TPMS sensors on my 2011 finally started dying in December so I decided to go with factory Schraders from Amazon. I paid $30.00 each for the sensors and had Discount tire install them for $20.00 each. There was a 2023 date code on each sensor and I assume they were taken off wrecked vehicles. The originals lasted 13 years so I figured OEM was the way to go.

I just went through this on my 2011. Had about a gallon stuck in there and the blower would shoot water around every time I turned left. I'm assuming all the water would eventually kill the blower motor but I unclogged the drain tube immediately after noticing the issue. The Edge's blower is really easy to access and replace.

Wow, lucky she was still under warranty:):)

I've tried 3 purge valves from Autozone and they all sounded like machine guns.

Thanks 1004. Ran codes and it didn't show any for the purge valve but I just swapped in a new one anyway. It did show pending codes for bank 1 & 2 02 sensors (P2198 and P2196). Cleared the codes after installing the new purge valve and all seems fine now:)

I'm just using a cheap reader I purchased from Amazon. I have noticed that my purge valve is getting pretty noisy so I'm gonna head up to the Zone right now and get a warranty replacement. Thinking I should have used a Motorcraft part in the first place:(

I've had this 2011 3.5 since new and it's been maintained extremely well. She just hit 146,000. Was stopped at a light this morning and it started lightly surging forward and backward. RPM gauge was also jumping a little. It didn't throw any codes and seemed to be a little sluggish until I got it home. Anyone ever experience something like this? Any ideas?

I'm guessing something wasn't tightened properly or one of the new parts already failed. I would start by checking the strut pinch bolts and upper mount bolts. Have someone watch the strut assembly while you bounce each side. Also, read about diagnosing a bad shock with the bounce test.

Check your coolant level. Not sure if the Edge works the same but I have a Jeep Liberty at the cabin that won't blow heat until about 2000 RPM every time the coolant gets low.

I'd wire brush it the best you can, prime the bad areas, spray a very light coat of rubberized undercoating on the entire chassis and then spray everything you can with a few cans of Fluid Film every fall. I live in a nasty rust belt and have done this since purchasing my 2011 SEL brand new and she still looks great underneath. I have gotten some rust along that lower rocker seam because it's really difficult to spray between the metal that's spot welded there. Also, it's a good idea to spray some rustproofing inside and outside of all the bottom door, hood and tailgate seams. I use a product called Amber Rustproofing. It doesn't take much time for annual rust prevention maintenance and it's definitely worth it if you live in a salt belt.

99% chance that it's the purge valve. I'd just go ahead and replace it cuz they're cheap and take about 5 minutes to replace. I actually replaced mine in the Autozone parking lot:) Toss your receipt in the glove compartment cuz I think Autozone is lifetime on these and I had mine replaced once.

There could be two blend door actuators on the drivers side. I had to replace the upper one on my 2008 Taurus and it was a bear.

Has anyone here ever tried to shim their headlights on a 11-14 for better horizontal adjustment? My 11 SEL came from the factory with the passenger beam pointing toward the middle of the vehicle. I know there's no horizontal adjustment so I've been thinking about pulling the front bumper and trying to shim the housing.

Well, I tried two different led bulbs in my 2011., The Fahren Forsher and Auxito Y13. The beam pattern was just OK after rotating them properly but they weren't much brighter than stock 9012 halogens. Two sided LED bulbs just don't work well in these halogen projectors.I ended up putting the 35/5000 DDM HIDs back in with new bulbs. I might eventually experiment with some higher quality LEDs if I decide to keep my Edge a little longer.

Don't expect any more light when using the brights, there's just a shutter that moves which allows the light to go higher. The halogen projectors on 11-14 Edges are so bad they're borderline dangerous.

Been running a DDM 35/5000 HID kit in my 2011 for 12 years with no problems. I've noticed the bulbs are starting to dim so it's time to do something and I've noticed that LEDs seem to have gotten a lot better than they were 12 years ago. Should I just order new HID bulbs or give LEDs a shot. Any suggestions if I decide to go LED? I was looking at the Auxito Y13.

I ended up ordering 4 Schraders on Amazon for $29.00 each. Looks like they were take-offs and were all manufactured around July of 2023. Was gonna replace them myself but it was too cold so I had Discount Tire swap them out for $88.00. Originals were manufactured in August of 2010 so just over 13 years before the first one died.