fishx65

I'd wire brush it the best you can, prime the bad areas, spray a very light coat of rubberized undercoating on the entire chassis and then spray everything you can with a few cans of Fluid Film every fall. I live in a nasty rust belt and have done this since purchasing my 2011 SEL brand new and she still looks great underneath. I have gotten some rust along that lower rocker seam because it's really difficult to spray between the metal that's spot welded there. Also, it's a good idea to spray some rustproofing inside and outside of all the bottom door, hood and tailgate seams. I use a product called Amber Rustproofing. It doesn't take much time for annual rust prevention maintenance and it's definitely worth it if you live in a salt belt.

99% chance that it's the purge valve. I'd just go ahead and replace it cuz they're cheap and take about 5 minutes to replace. I actually replaced mine in the Autozone parking lot:) Toss your receipt in the glove compartment cuz I think Autozone is lifetime on these and I had mine replaced once.

There could be two blend door actuators on the drivers side. I had to replace the upper one on my 2008 Taurus and it was a bear.

Has anyone here ever tried to shim their headlights on a 11-14 for better horizontal adjustment? My 11 SEL came from the factory with the passenger beam pointing toward the middle of the vehicle. I know there's no horizontal adjustment so I've been thinking about pulling the front bumper and trying to shim the housing.

Well, I tried two different led bulbs in my 2011., The Fahren Forsher and Auxito Y13. The beam pattern was just OK after rotating them properly but they weren't much brighter than stock 9012 halogens. Two sided LED bulbs just don't work well in these halogen projectors.I ended up putting the 35/5000 DDM HIDs back in with new bulbs. I might eventually experiment with some higher quality LEDs if I decide to keep my Edge a little longer.

Don't expect any more light when using the brights, there's just a shutter that moves which allows the light to go higher. The halogen projectors on 11-14 Edges are so bad they're borderline dangerous.

Been running a DDM 35/5000 HID kit in my 2011 for 12 years with no problems. I've noticed the bulbs are starting to dim so it's time to do something and I've noticed that LEDs seem to have gotten a lot better than they were 12 years ago. Should I just order new HID bulbs or give LEDs a shot. Any suggestions if I decide to go LED? I was looking at the Auxito Y13.

I ended up ordering 4 Schraders on Amazon for $29.00 each. Looks like they were take-offs and were all manufactured around July of 2023. Was gonna replace them myself but it was too cold so I had Discount Tire swap them out for $88.00. Originals were manufactured in August of 2010 so just over 13 years before the first one died.

I now have 46,000 on my LX20's and still have 5-6 tenths on all of them. They've been really good all these years but I just noticed some cracking between the treads. Probably gonna go with a set of LX25's when the time comes.

I just used a cheap spring compressor kit from AA to do upper strut mounts on my 2011 SEL and was surprised how quick and easy it was. The 11-14 Edge's have pretty stiff suspensions to begin with so I wouldn't mind finding shocks and struts that soften things up a bit.

Just had my first TPMS sensor die in my 2011 SEL. I'm guessing it's a good idea to replace all of them since they're 13 years old?. Any decent aftermarket brands out there????

I own both an Edge and a Fusion. If the EVOS was a hybrid all wheel drive vehicle I'd be really interested. I think it looks amazing:)

I'd do a full undercoat and rustproofing and make sure to touch it up every year. It's also a good idea to give it a quick spray with a product like fluid film going into each winter. I have a 2011 SEL that's been in SE Michigan its whole life and the undercarriage still looks pretty amazing for 150,000 miles.

2011 just hit 150,000 and it's time for a tie rod job. Moog or Motorcraft? Can get all 4 Moog's for $130.00 on Amazon so that's the way I'm leaning.

I recently had to change out an actuator in a Taurus because I couldn't get the defrost vents to work. Major problem in the winter!!!! I was able to pinpoint which actuator it was by the clicking noise and getting my fingers on it. Unfortunately it was the upper actuator on the drivers side which was a bitch to get to. I made a little bed out of milk crates and a patio cushion so I could lay down and try to get the 3 screws out. Took me about 4 hours and I only got two screws back in. Had to go all MacGyver and make a couple extended 1/4" ratchet handles. My whole body was sore for a few days:)

It would be interesting to compare Edge sales to Fusion sales those same years. Maybe cuz I live in Michigan but I'm amazed how many Fusions of all years I still see on the roads.

In the same boat with around 140K on my 2011. Gonna roll the dice instead of fixing something that might last over 300,000 miles. If Mac can do it so can we:):)

I've got a 2011 SEL with 145,000 and been thinking of doing the water pump as a precautionary measure. This post makes me not want to mess with it.

I currently own a 2011 Edge, 2019 Fusion Hybrid and a 2023 Escape ST. The 2011 Edge is way nicer than the 2023 Escape in almost every single way besides technology and MPG. Out of the three, I still prefer driving the Edge by a good margin. I've been driving Fords my whole life but will finally be looking at other brands when I decide to sell the Edge. Whatever I get will definitely be a hybrid.

Your MIL is a smart lady:) I don't think it's worth trying to repair the body on that Edge cuz it's pretty bad. If ya gotta keep it, maybe just keep covering the rust with a can of black rust-stop Rust-oleum.

Probably a CV axle. Make sure to go OEM if they need to be replaced.

You pretty much replaced everything that it could be. Only thing I can think of is another bad CV axle. I replaced mine with an Autozone axle and within a week it started making noise and was out of balance. Had to return it and grab a Motorcraft axle. Nice thing is that round two only took me a half hour:)

I had a dealership diagnose my front clicking noise as a bad strut mount bearing and is the reason I replaced mine before figuring out it was the CV axle. I guess it really doesn't matter in your case since you have an extended warranty.

I just did this a few weeks ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc