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candurin

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Everything posted by candurin

  1. candurin
    Since you cross posted all over the place, I'll just respond here... I thought I read that TRS just had a batch of poor performing ballasts. Have you requested an exchange? You may also want to consider adding capacitors ($6 on ebay for the pair), this will give your kit an extra "boost" when initially firing up which may resolve your issue as well. Have you also considered having your DRLs changed to your parking lamps (or turned off if your considering an aftermarket drl). As you've been told, this can be done at your ford dealership via IDS. And lastly, just as a completely off topic comment. I had the distinct pleasure of sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the QEW (driving from Burlington back to Toronto) right in front of the oakville ford facility last week. I had to grin and bear it, while driving my rental Camry.
  2. candurin
    It's up to you. 55W gives 20-30% more brightness. As you are essentially "overdriving" the bulbs with the 55W ballast, you get a brighter hotspot in the center of the beam pattern which essentially lowers the perceived color (it lowers the Kelvin rating) of the bulb. So, if you run a 5000K bulb at 35W, it will appear 5000K (white, with a very slight blue hue). If you run that same 5000K bulb at 55W, the higher intensity washes out the color a bit and it appears as 4300K. That is a perfectly crystal white color. If you running 35W, I recommend 4300K bulbs. 55W, I recommend 5000K bulbs. Please don't go any higher than 5000K.
  3. candurin
    Here is Dan's video:
  4. candurin
    You're talking yourself out of an excellent lighting upgrade. I did aftermarket hid cars on my last three vehicles. My first was in my parking lot in front of my first apartment (2001!). You don't need any tools. On some kits, the 9006 bulbs are a bitch to get in, but others have reported that the 9005 bulbs are much easier (no difference in performance). The only extra things you need are 3M dual lock fasteners (high strength Velcro) and some zip ties). This assumes you go with a 35w kit and no harness. It's completely plug and play (30 minute job). If you decide to go with a wire harness/relays then you only need a wrench (adjustable) to loosen the battery terminal connections in order to secure the wire harness. It's so much easier than you think. 12Edge did an elaborate setup (which looks great BTW). I took the easier method and purchased the TRS morimoto kit, which includes everything you need (and is fantastic quality). We can all walk you through it. It's worth an hour (being conservative) and $120 (max, there are cheaper kits) for the HUGE lighting improvement.
  5. candurin
    Really? Did you go to the site? http://www.drivebright.com/home/
  6. candurin
    It just peels off. You can actually spray more ontop of the splattered amount (sounds crazy). The more you have one, the easier to pull off in one shot. Or just use some rubbing/isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove it. You won't harm the paint.
  7. candurin
    My auto works perfectly with my morimoto kit. My ddm kit also worked in auto, with my TRS harness, before my ballast blew. As long as you wire properly (harness, capacitor) and get a quality kit. Your auto should work just fine.
  8. candurin
    You can have the DRLs changed to the parking lights or disabled completely at your dealer. They need to perform this in their IDS software connected to your edge.
  9. candurin
    Go HID.
  10. candurin
    The limited editions have an OEM HID option with one of the packages (I can't recall if its standard or not). For the price, aftermarket works very well with the halogen projectors, so the cost/performance is a no brainer.
  11. candurin
    You'll be very happy with the support and service (and the kit!) from TRS. Phillip, where are you located? Are you in Canada or CA? Just trying to determine if you have a DRL enabled Edge.
  12. candurin
    Which aftermarket kit did you install? You can always opt for a better aftermarket kit or improve the one one you installed with capacitors and a wire harness.
  13. candurin
    Yes, it's the third gen.
  14. candurin
    Much easier than you think. You only need your wallet and to remove a few bolts: http://www.daytimebrightlites.com/LED_Taillights.html
  15. candurin
    Did you contact DDM? Sounds like you need to replace the ballast. You may also want to consider adding a capacitor.
  16. candurin
    Your bulbs are not seated properly. Looks like passenger bulb is leaning towards driver's side. You sure all three tabs seated correctly in the socket?
  17. candurin
    That is true. Another poster mentioned their 55w ballast was bad and being replaced.
  18. candurin
    Because DDM makes crap ballasts You need to add a capacitor, or have ddm replace your ballast (which many posters have stated fixed the same problem your describing).
  19. candurin
    I can't take credit for dan's video (kc300c). As an aftermarket hid kit is plug and play into the oem halogen lighting system, they would be protected by 16 & 17. If you had oem hid, it would use the 20amp circuit. I have never had my 10amp fuses go.
  20. candurin
  21. candurin
    Your auto doesn't work? Are you using a harness? Even when I was using the ddm kit (converted to TRS when my ddm kit crapped out after a week), my lights worked using Auto on the headlight switch.
  22. candurin
    Just get the canbus wire harness from TRS.
  23. candurin
    I'm a fan of TRS morimoto. Excellent quality.
  24. candurin
    The aftermarket will absolutely look stock/OEM. Most kits include the grommets (just use a spade bit to make a clean hole in the headlight boot in the back) to seal the wiring in. I have my ballasts mounted to the OEM location and all wires neatly hidden. You're wasting money, IMO, by buying the OEM. You can spend $50 - $150 on an HID kit (which looks great in the edge's projector lens) and another $1200 on other assorted goodies.
  25. candurin
    They will be plug and play. No issues there. BUT, you have to pay a LOT of $$, for something that can be done with a quality aftermarket HID and neat wiring.
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