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candurin

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Everything posted by candurin

  1. candurin
    Removing the door is VERY easy to do. In fact, Dingo had posted some photos of which bolts to remove. Took me less than 5 minutes when I replaced my speakers. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/9023-2012-door-removalspeaker-install/
  2. candurin
    Gabe, just because your new I won't point out that I answered the harness question in the post immediately before your last one No worries. You can go with the 50/55W no problem (I've been using my TRS 55W for over a year with ZERO issues). You will have no concerns with blinding oncoming traffic as your projectors should be aimed properly (you didn't play with any set screws, correct?) from the factory. The 55W ballasts boosts the bulb lumens by 15 - 20% over the 35W ballast (both use same exact bulb). Again, go with the Heavy Duty wiring harness. You do NOT need the CANBUS version as the edge does not throw any codes when changing to HIDs. Let us know if you need any help with install. It's a bit tight and someone knuckle busting to get the bulbs in (we've all been there). I've got a photo with my HIDs on (not a great representation as it was daytime, overcast and with an iPhone): http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12810-how-to-remove-front-bumper;-2011-2013-models/?p=101257
  3. candurin
    Where'd you pick up the appearance pkg rims from? Look good!
  4. candurin
    I'm with dingo. I've got 55w/5k. Keep in mind 50w 5000k will be a perfect white color. The higher wattage washes out the color a bit due to increased intensity in the light's hotspot. Basically 50w/5k will be closer to 4300k ran at 35w. You'll get the best of both worlds. Just make sure to order the HD relay harness, you won't need the canbus.
  5. candurin
    Capacitors work, but a wiring harness is recommended (especially if you are considering a 55W kit vs 35W). DDM is a good kit (used them for many years, even back in their Apexcone days), but cannot match the quality of the TRS kit (not that you shouldn't consider the DDM kit). As far as "frowning upon"? You won't get any from this bunch! Typically retrofitting HIDs into a REFLECTOR housing that was designed for Halogens ONLY is frowned upon (you get severe light scattering and non-focused lighting). Considering the OEM is a PROJECTOR lens, it is perfectly OK to retrofit HIDS into them (in fact, you cannot tell it wasn't OEM). Yes, I know the OEM HID housings are slightly different, but the halogen housings are perfect for HID.
  6. candurin
    So I finally just got my first text message notification! I was driving this morning and it popped up on the screen. Even let me listen to it spoken aloud. I don't know if has been there before and playing with settings activated or if it just now works with 3.6.2. Note: Using an iPhone 4S (yeah, I know) with iOS 6.1.2.
  7. candurin
    As always, thanks Dingo. Just placed the order.
  8. candurin
    I'm trying to find a simple door edge guard. I park in the garage next to my wife's car and always just nudge/rub the edge of my car against the wall., I've got some wear on the lip of my front driver door. I see some 5/16" u channel trim (15' length that you cut to size): http://www.ebay.com/itm/360550530130 Is this worth it or does anyone else have a better recommendation (besides moving my car over in the garage)?
  9. candurin
    http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3957 You can thank me later! You can use a 9006 bulb kit. Will fit into the OEM slots. Others have also used 9005 sized bulbs successfully.
  10. candurin
    I'm enjoying my 6829CFs. Sound much better than stock and well worth the $150 investment.
  11. candurin
    The one addition I have noticed from 3.5.1 to 3.6.2 is that, previously, if I had the A/C on recirculate and shut off the car, the next time I started the car my temps were remembered but I always had to turn recirculation back on. Now with the new update, it retains the recirculation setting and is applied when I restart the car. You know, just those little things that make you happy...
  12. candurin
    You could take off door panel and disconnect the keypad from inside the door (tape up the loose ends to protect then). This will disable the keypad. Apparently the master code is hard wired into the car's computer. You'd have to replace the entire computer to get a new code. Maybe this is something your insurance would cover (assuming you filed a claim)?
  13. candurin
    You would connect the white wire to the parking light INSTEAD of the headlight wire (in your case disconnect it from the HL and move it over to the PL).
  14. candurin
    Here's some crappy iPhone photos I just tried to snap.
  15. candurin
    Gave it a quick spit shine this morning... Yesterday I swapped out the grille, PDed the headlight trim and upper chrome piece, installed a new black ford emblem and FINALLY installed my v2 DTBL DRLs.
  16. candurin
    Electric tape. I've got the oem connectors zip tied pretty high up behind the bumper. I am using a scotchlok with grease to make the actual connections (other folks have used an actual spade connector to plug into the oem itself.
  17. candurin
    Just finished my install... I simply connected the white wire to the yellow w/ green stripe right at the oem light pipe connection. I did have some flickering on the drivers side white LEDs. I simply tapped the front of the light and its been fine since.
  18. candurin
    Funny, I purchase one from Tim (downatthebuilding) 2 weeks ago and will have it on my car in about an hour on so.
  19. candurin
    I tried taping it the first time, but perhap I'm just really bad at taping. I had overspray on some of the black honeycomb in the bumper and a bunch of little crevices that were a bitch to tape. I also peeled a bunch of PD off when removing the tape. I just wasn't happy with the results, so I peeled it. Now I just swapped out my chrome grill for the primed black one. Looks matte just like my PD rims and upper-most chrome piece and headlight trim that I dipped. I'll get some photos up over the weekend after I clean my car. Another benefit to removing the bumper is that wiring my v2 DTBLs are a breeze. Also snugged up my HID bulbs.
  20. candurin
    Thanks again for the video! Just took my bumper off and headlights out. Took 15 minutes (impact drill helps!). Removing the chrome grilles SUCKED!!! I wrestled with those bastards for 45 minutes. I'll put in the black grilles in the morning and PD the upper chrome piece and the chrome portion of the headlights tomorrow as well. Bumper was VERY easy to remove. Had I known it was that easy I would have done it to change out my headlights to HID instead of trying to chane the bulbs from the rear.
  21. candurin
    Just did my update to 3.6.2. Feel like the downloading of the update onto the USB stick from Ford's website took longer than the app install in the car! It took about 25 minutes in the car to complete (non-Nav MFT). No noticeable differences from 3.5.1 and still no text messages on MFT from iPhone 4S (iOS 6.1.2).
  22. candurin
    Send me a PM with your contact information. I plan on swapping my chrome grille out this week for a black one. I'll gladly sell you my chrome one and save you a quite a few $... If you're not interested, then I'll post this in the classifieds section.
  23. candurin
    Your definitely going to want to add HIDs though. Even if you went with nighthawks or silverstars (arguably the brightest aftermarket halogens), the light output won't be that much better than stock. My opinion is that you can take the $30 you'd spend on decent halogens and apply it to a good HID kit. Still plug and play and significant light output increase.
  24. candurin
    Any 9005 or 9006 size bulbs will fit.
  25. candurin
    Ugh. No.
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