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candurin

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Everything posted by candurin

  1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-2011-2013-Ford-Edge-HID-Headlights-PAIR-Includes-Ballast-Bulbs-RH-LH-/271144651705?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f217b0bb9
  2. Dan (kc300c) did a great video on YouTube: http://m.youtube.com/watch?desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DWIp9W6Cz9PY&v=WIp9W6Cz9PY&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DWIp9W6Cz9PY%26desktop_uri%3D%252Fwatch%253Fv%253DWIp9W6Cz9PY
  3. I've been using my 50w TRS kit for over a year and half. Zero issues whatsoever.
  4. You gotta pay for quality. Nothing you can do about that. Many users have had zero issues with ddm, so you'll likely be ok with that kit. You want a wire harness with any ballast higher than 35w to take the strain off the factory wiring. You may need to "thin"/trim the tabs on the bulb a bit, just to facilitate locking it into the socket (you also may NOT have too, hit or miss). 9005, 9005 and 9012's all "match", just slight difference in lumens (applies to halogen bulbs only) and bulb tab pattern (all fit the 9012 socket). You can always get the TRS it on ebay and "make an offer" for less $.
  5. I you want a quality kit, look elsewhere. Just a warning, many members have had problems with DDMs wiring harness (some have had no issues), which you WILL need with a 55W kit. If you're going with the DDM kit, then spend the money and get a decent wire harness (TRS Morimoto wire harness is compatible). You can get either 9005 (which some say is easier to insert into the bulb socket) or 9006. TRS does have a 9012 kit: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=36171
  6. One bulb, size 9012 (hir3). If you flip the high beams, you'll hear the mechanical shutter lower to create the high beam light pattern.
  7. Open hood, reach around behind headlight housing and remove boot/cover. Then twist old bulb out of the socket, remove wire harness and replace bulb. Then just do the reverse and your done. There's not a lot of room to work with, so expect to bust a knuckle or two and drop a few f-bombs.
  8. Yes, your dealer can disable your headlights as DRLs or they can change your DRLs to the parking lights (which you should NOT do if you plan on purchasing aftermarket DRLs such as daytimebritelights, which are HIGHLY recommended). Then you can get a 9012, 9006 or 9005 bulb hid kit. Just do yourself a favor and get a quality kit.
  9. According to his post, he's using the 9006 bulb. I had to trim the ddm ones a bit (before I tossed them) in order to get them to fully seat.
  10. http://bit.ly/Hhoijj Found at least a dozen on ebay...
  11. Return wire should face down (between 4 & 7 o'clock) this way you will not see the shadow (the shadow will then be at 11 - 1 o'clock). The shadow is inverse to the wire. You may have to trim the tabs slightly (dremel) to get them to fit/twist).
  12. Should be a little pyramid shaped sensor in the middle of the dashboard almost up against the windshield.
  13. But your "ford tech" said they would be fine! I've said it many times, get a QUALITY kit with a QUALITY harness and you'll be fine. Glad to hear everything is ok and you and the edge are safe. P.S. my ddm wire harness melted after a few days. That's why I swapped everything over to TRS (morimoto).
  14. Don't confuse "xenon" bulbs with HID ballasts and bulbs. HIDs run the same wattage (and really close heat/temp) as stock incandescent, The crappy aftermarket xenon bulb are essentially blue coated bulbs (in order to created the white bluish light effect of HIDs). They then use higher wattage bulbs (65-85W) to compensate for loss of light/lumens caused by the blue coating. HIDs won't melt housings (you still need to be cautious if your installing in a 15w fog light housing), but doubling the wattage with crappy xenon bulbs will. I've been using 55w HIDs for over a year and a half with zero issues.
  15. Your driver's side should be slightly lower than the passenger side...
  16. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11399-turn-signal-mirrors/
  17. If you look at the bulb itself there is a metal wire that runs along side the glass itself. You want to make sure you orient the bulb so that you cannot see its shadow in the beam (will look like a wedge shaped dark spot).
  18. Let's not make the exceptions the rule. If you gloss over a few years of posts, you'll see many HID adopters suffer from flickering, uneven firing, "Auto" mode issues, etc. They have all been resolved with a wire harness. A few of us (myself included) have had crappy harnesses melt on us (*cough* DDM), so you want to be diligent in your selection. Some users have gone as far as wiring in capacitors for an extra boost during warm-up. You may get by without one just fine, but that certainly doesn't eliminate the strong recommendation to use one.
  19. You absolutely want a wire harness when using a 55w driven ballast (OEM is 35w). That's a fairly tough strain on the factory wiring. You're correct in ignoring poor advice and getting the harness...
  20. That's odd. I've been running your drls with vled switchbacks (with resistors) and everything works perfectly.
  21. You do NOT need the error eliminator. But you do want a wire harness if you go with 55w Ballasts. Do yourself a favor and get a quality harness (TRS makes a great one). I had the ddm harness and it melted in the first 2 weeks of use.
  22. Did you get a canbus wire harness? Is that what your referring to as "canceller" or are you referring to ddm's bulb out canceller adapters?
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