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Hi Victor. :D I will try to answer your questions best i can, in some sort of understandable order (I hope). Yes, the EATC system can/will turn on the A/C compressor when needed to dehumidify the air. That goes for cooling and/or heating the air. In very cold weather, if the air was not dehumidified by the A/C compressor/system, the inside of the car windows would quickly fog up. To understand this concept, you need to realize that contrary to popular belief, the terms "Air Conditioning" or "A/C" do not only mean cooling the air. They simply mean exactly what the words state: "conditioning the air" by dehumidifying and then cooling or heating it. It will also direct the air as needed to different registers along with vary the temperature and fan speed to keep the driver/passenger set temperature. And yes, the EATC system will also sometimes blow immediately, even if the engine is not warmed up, if the system senses that the air circulation will be needed to keep the windshield from fogging up. And yes, you are correct that use of the A/C compressor will use more fuel (apples to apples comparisons). However, that is the price we pay to have the system cool/heat/dehumidify the air automatically. If you want to ensure your best fuel mileage, you will need to use control the HVAC system on full manual. But even then, if you need to use the front defroster setting, the A/C compressor may/will still be enabled if the HVAC system needs it to dehumidify the air to defog the windshield. This information (and more) can also be found in the Owners Manual. Consult the Owners Manual section explaining the use and operation of the various HVAC systems available in the Edge/MKX. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ThinLine. :D Hey, thanks to you I also just learned something new. :grouphug: I did not know when keyless entry was first introduced. All I knew for sure was that the first time I had keyless entry in one of my new cars, it was a 1987 model. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Amy. :D As akirby and mv-clear stated, Ford has taken care of the "what if the remote does not work...?" contingencies with the keyfob slot in the console. And the instructions are located in the Owners Manual. Check the Index, as it is a large Manual and can be easy to overlook. Concerning replacing the batteries in the remotes, this would be my opinion: If it will help you sleep easier at night, you could do a little preventive maintenance and replace them every three or four years if you like. Any more often than that (i.e. every 4-6 months) would just be a waste of your hard earned money. I have never had a battery go dead in any keylob in many years of driving (the last 24 years or so with remote keyfobs). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Finch. :D Let me state upfront that I am not doubting that it could be a problem other than tires. However, that being said, to completely rule out the tires as a cause, some more information would help. For example: What make and model tires are now on your Edge? How many miles are on them? Did you install them yourself or are they the original factory tires (or are they replacement the previous owner installed)? Were they properly rotated? While I understand that you can't know what the previous owner did, have you rotated them properly and have you checked the tread depth on all four tires (outside, middle and inside tread) to be sure they are not unevenly worn? Are the rear tires more worn than the fronts (by measuring, not visibly)? While this may seem far-fetched, for all we know (and maybe for all you know) the previous owner installed summer performance tires on the Edge, or there is some other easily discovered/cured underlying tire problem (rears more worn than the fronts etc.). Also, while many people do not realize this, once passenger car tires have lost approximately/just over half their usable tread, they are severely compromised for winter/snow driving. Once we have that information and can completely rule out tires as a cause, then it is easier to move forward on mechanical issues. Also, my apologies if you already know all of this information, but it is better to play it safe and ask the questions. Post back when you have a chance. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi H. :D I wash and dry my car towels and wash mitts in our home washer and dryer. I use a good quality regular liquid washing machine soap (Tide, All, Arm and Hammer etc.) with the washer set to the "heavy duty' wash cycle. Use the soap sparingly, to minimize excess soap residue in the towels after the rinse cycle. Do not use fabric softener in the washing machine or softener sheets in the dryer, as they leave a residue on the towels that can leave streaks/smearing on the car. I dry the cotton towels on high in the dryer, but I let my wash mitts air dry. Your neighbors wife is overreacting a bit. However, of course you should wash the car towels/mitts etc. in a separate load from any other clothing, household towels etc.. I cycle all of my towels through their natural life cycle. When in good condition, they are used for the paint. As they wear, they move to the wheels, then the wheel wells/tires etc., then garbage. And I do wash the towels used for detailing spray, as the ones I use for detailing spray are good towels with plenty of nap left (to avoid paint scratching). So as long as they are still in good condition, they get washed and reused. Once they are excessively worn, greasy or oily, they don't go in the washer anymore. They are used as shop towels then into the garbage. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi pat97. :D In addition to the good advice you have already received, I would add this: You mention that the Edge is two years old. If there are less than 36,000 miles on the vehicle, it is still covered under the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty. That means the battery replacement or any other diagnosis/repairs are covered under Warranty. If necessary, a tow to the Dealership would also be covered under the Ford Complementary Roadside Assistance Program. So if you wish, you can save yourself the money, time and possible headaches by letting Ford/your Dealership diagnose and correct the problem. Just another option to think about. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi phlatlander. :D In the Owners Manual are instructions on how to perform a compass calibration procedure. Try performing the calibration procedure to correct the error. If that does not work, then a service visit will probably be necessary. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi AC. :D Just to play it safe: You know that you have Ford Complementary Roadside Assistance for 5 years/60,000 miles, correct? So if you plan on having it flat-bedded to the Dealership, call Ford Roadside Assistance so you can avoid the out-of-pocket expense. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi AC. :D Welcome to the Edge Forums. Sorry your first post had to be a problem/issue related. How many miles on the Edge? Your Edge has a 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty and a 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty along with Complementary Roadside Assistance. If you are still within the Bumper to Bumper Warranty, let Ford diagnose and take care of the issue. In this way, you will have no out-of-pocket expenses. You don't mention how you "saved the day". Did you jump the Edge? Did you install a new battery? Did it just happen to start for you when you tried, etc. etc? If you jumped the battery, then the problem could simply be a bad battery (will no longer hold a charge). If it is not the battery, then it could be a host of other electrical issues. If you are outside the Bumper to Bumper Warranty and want to tackle this yourself, start with having the battery tested. If it tests bad, replace it. If it tests good, then you would need to go through the regular troubles shooting steps and it may be best to let the Dealer find the problem, since it may still be covered under the Powertrain Warranty. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Canuck. :D I would not disagree. As previously stated, I have heard nothing but good things about Poorboys Wheel Sealant. I simply have not used it yet, preferring to whittle down the glut of car care products I already have before buying more. It will certainly be one I will try in the future. Thanks for the information. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi midwest. :D Your Dealer can provide the information. In fact, while many are too lazy to do so, it is part of their job. There is also a "Tracking Board" on the Blue Oval Forums (tracking courtesy of cyberdman), but there are posting criteria which I don't believe you would meet yet (you can check the board for the rules). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Hopper. :D You are very welcome. While I have not used it myself (I use Meguiar's Cleaner Wax for my wheels), I have heard good things about Poor Boys Wheel Sealant. While I don' know that you should need to use it as often as every few weeks, it certainly would be a good product to use on your wheels. And yes, for the sake of your cars paint finish, you are 100% correct when you added that you should use separate mitts and towels for the wheels. I am sure others will also weigh in soon with more advice. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Hopper and welcome. :D You are correct in assuming that the Ford factory polished aluminum wheels are clearcoated. And you are also correct in assuming that the safest way to care and protect them is to simply wash and wax them as you would your cars paint finish. Concerning Meguiar's Hot Rims Aluminum Wheel Cleaner: While I use and recommend Meguiar's products, I would not use the Meguiar's Hot Rims cleaner (at least not from what you quoted the package states). If you read what you quoted carefully, it states it is formulated for "uncoated" wheels. As you assumed, while your factory wheels are polished, they are also clearcoated, so that eliminates them from the "uncoated" category. Unless that bottle of Meguiar's Hot Rims wheel cleaner states somewhere on the packaging that is it "clearcoat safe", it should not be used on your factory rims.. Clearcoated wheels should be treated just as the cars paint finish. Wash them often to remove brake dust and other contamination, then wax and buff periodically to maintain the shine and protect the finish. There are good products made specifically for clearcoated wheels that I am sure other members will jump in to recommend. As long as they clearly state "clearcoat safe", then you are okay. I won't say you should not use other products, as many are very good. I will only state that thoroughly washing and waxing clearcoated wheels will do the job of cleaning and protecting them just fine. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi _11680. :D If you are referring to using Mothers Chrome Polish on your aluminum wheels, do not (unless it clearly states it is "Clearcoat safe"). The Edge factory aluminum wheels are clearcoated (all of them), and over the long run chrome polish will damage the clearcoat finish. Think about it: Would you use chrome polish on your clearcoated fenders, hood or roof finish? If you read about caring for aluminum wheels which are clearcoat finished (which is all Ford factory aluminum wheels), you will find that the recommendation is to simply wash them with the same good quality car wash shampoo you use for the paint finish, then wax them periodically to protect the clearcoat finish. Or you can read the Edge Owners Manual, which clearly states (copied and pasted): "ALUMINUM WHEELS AND WHEEL COVERS Aluminum wheels and wheel covers are coated with a clearcoat paint finish. In order to maintain their shine: • Clean weekly with Motorcraft Wheel and Tire Cleaner, which is available from your authorized dealer. Heavy dirt and brake dust accumulation may require agitation with a sponge. Rinse thoroughly with a strong stream of water. • Never apply any cleaning chemical to hot or warm wheel rims or covers. • Some automatic car washes may cause damage to the finish on your wheel rims or covers. Industrial-strength (heavy-duty) cleaners, or cleaning chemicals, in combination with brush agitation to remove brake dust and dirt, could wear away the clearcoat finish over time. • Do not use hydrofluoric acid-based or high caustic-based wheel cleaners, steel wool, fuels or strong household detergent. • To remove tar and grease, use Motorcraft Bug and Tar Remover , available from your authorized dealer." Now, of course we don't need to use the Motorcraft products mentioned, but we should use a good quality clearcoat safe cleaning product. And the best is simple washing and waxing with good quality paint care products. You can verify this information by visiting the Mother's or Meguiar's websites and reading their wheel-care "How-to's" and "FAQ's". Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi spridell. :D Just to avoid any confusion: They are clear-coated. I won't speak for all other manufacturers, but all modern Ford passenger car aluminum wheels are clear-coat finished. Otherwise, they would oxidize and look horrible in no time (yes, aluminum oxidizes but does not rust). So yes, the polished wheels are manufactured with a "polished" aluminum finish and the wheel is then clear-coated with either a polyester or acrylic clear-coat protective coating. The machined aluminum wheels are manufactured with a "machined" aluminum finish and the wheel is then clear-coated. The painted (or painted pocket) aluminum wheels are manufactured with a painted finish and the wheel is then clear-coated, and so on.... Therefore (as you advised), you must use a clear-coat safe wheel cleaner. It is even advisable to simply wash them with a good quality car shampoo then protect the finish with a coat (or two) of wax and buff (in both cases, you can use the same wash and wax products as used on your paint finish). If washed, waxed and maintained on a regular basis, special cleaners are not needed for clear-coated wheels. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi SharperEdge. :D You would need to rewire the electrical/lighting system yourself or pay someone to do it. Just two things to keep in mind though: First, rewiring the electrical/lighting systems would lead to Warranty issues if you ever have electrical and/or lighting system issues that require Warranty work. Second, it is illegal (in the U.S.) to drive with more than four illuminating lights on the front of the car. Illuminating lights are considered the low beams, high beams and fog lights. So driving with the lows, highs and fogs on at the same time would be illegal (just for starters). Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Greg. :D Not necessarily, but it does mean it is getting close. Window stickers are printed before actual production begins. There is no exact time period that is foolproof, but approximately one week before production seems to be a good rule of thumb. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Twiggy. :D Not sure if you noticed this or not, so figured I would play it safe and mention it: The OP (jason0595) only had two posts total, both in this thread, no posts since July of 2009 and has not even signed in since September of 2009. (he is also located in China). While he may post back and prove me wrong, I have a feeling he is long gone. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Ruissimo :D . Yes. If you don't want the TPMS warning light constantly illuminated, you would need to either: 1 - Remove the factory sensors from the factory wheels and install them on the new wheels. 2 - Purchase new sensors, install them on the new wheels and have them programmed to the vehicles TPMS system. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi AXCL. :D Oooops, the difference in mentioned model years did not register with my pea brain when I read the question. Thanks for pointing that out. Therefore, since I am not 100% sure whether there was or was not a hub/centerbore size change and the possible differences (i.e. larger, smaller etc.), I am going to edit my previous reply to stipulate that the MKX/Edge wheels are interchangeable within model years, but there may be hub/centerbore size differences on disparate model years. Thanks and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Dre. :D Yes, they will fit and no you will not need anything special. They are a direct swap. EDIT - See the next two posts. When I originally read the question, the difference in stipulated model years did not register with me. Since it seems there may have been a hub/centerbore size change on the 2011 models, I am not sure what the correct answer is. Sorry, my error. Perhaps someone else will jump in with some definitive information. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi drevv. :D As mentioned above, there are no "street legal" aftermarket HID kits. To put it bluntly, all aftermarket HID kits are illegal for on-road use in the U.S., Canada and Europe. Now, that being said, the chances of actually being stopped and ticketed for such an infraction are probably on the low side (although everyone must take their own circumstances into account). However, the bottom-line is that the installation of any aftermarket HID kit in any "on road" vehicle that did not come factory equipped with HID's is illegal, no exceptions. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Edgawi. :D While the old adage "If you throw enough money and time at it, almost anything is possible" applies, the realistic answer is no. Too many electronics, sensors, programming changes etc. would need to be added/made. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi drevv. :D Very few things "Void the Warranty". "Voiding the Warranty" means that absolutely nothing normally covered under Warranty would ever be covered under Warranty, ever again. However, in the particular case of installing HID's, if you later have any sort of lighting or electrical issues that can be remotely traced back by the Dealer or Ford to the HID installation or equipment, that particular Warranty claim could be denied. But as mentioned above, that is much different than "Voiding the Warranty". Not saying that is a likely scenario, just providing the information concerning Warranty/Warranty claim denial issues. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jihadly. :D In addition to the good advice tpm offered, I would ask this (sorry if it seems like a dumb question, but it needs to be asked): Are you checking the transmission fluid level correctly by following the instructions in your Owners Manual? There are detailed instructions in the Owners Manual which need to be followed to obtain an accurate reading. For example, you need to check trans fluid with the engine running and warmed up. In addition, prior to checking the fluid you also need to shift through the gears (PRNDL etc.), holding each gear for a specified time period with your foot on the brake. If you are not following those directions, you will get an inaccurate reading. If that is the case, read your Owners Manual and check the fluid level again using the proper instructions. As I stated previously, seems like a dumb question, but we have run into this situation in the past. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug: