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Hi rknutson. :D All the usual suspects. Here are a few, in likely order of most to least expensive: Local Ford/Lincoln Dealerships. Online Ford parts sellers, such as Team Ford Parts Online LINK: Team Ford Parts Online and Silver State Ford Parts LINK: Silver State Ford Parts. Local (or online) Salvage Yards. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ziggy. :D In addition to the helpful advice you have already received above, see this existing thread concerning the ESP and Ford/Lincoln Dealers who sell over the Internet: LINK: ESP pricing My experiences Internet shopping (and where I found the best pricing) begin with Post #3. Hope this information is helpful. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi kenjay. :D Since you stated in a previous post that you have the chrome clad wheels and the plastic was damaged, I assumed you have the "chrome clad" wheels with the chromed plastic overlay. If that is what your Edge is equipped with and you are wondering if the plastic overlay can be replaced separately, to my knowledge the plastic overlay is not replaceable. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi kenjan. :D If you can not have it repaired, your choices for buying a replacement are the same as usual. Here are a few, in order of likely high to low pricing: Your Ford or other local Ford/L-M Dealer, online Ford parts sellers such as Team Ford Parts Online LINK: Team Ford Parts Online, Silver State Ford Parts LINK: Silver State Ford Parts, local Salvage Yards, etc.. The online Ford Parts sellers may not even have the 2011 parts in their online database yet, so you may need to call them for priding. And although I understand your frustration, there is no sense in beating yourself up over your choices or second guessing the wheel construction. In reality, if you hit or scraped something hard enough to damage a chrome clad wheel, it would most likely have also damaged an all-aluminum wheel. Something else to keep in mind: Not sure why your Dealer stated there would be a charge for the TPMS. The old TPMS sensor would only need to be transferred from the old wheel to the new wheel and it would likely not even need to be reprogrammed. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi kenjan. :D Several options off the top of my head: Check with your local Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealers, local Speed Shops or Collision Repair shops for wheel repair specialist recommendations in your area. Or try Googling "automotive wheel repair" and look for reputable repair companies. It is extremely difficult to give any sort of price estimate, since we can not see the extent of the damage. In some cases, it may not even be possible to satisfactorily repair the damage. I would start with trying to get a referral from your Ford-L-M Dealer/Dealers or local Speed Shops. Then hopefully you can get a few estimates and proceed from there. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi cr2k. :D All Edge's have "climate control" (that just refers to an air conditioning system). I assume you mean your Edge does not have the automatic climate control system (EATC)? Anyway. there are multiple possibilities. Yes, there could be a stuck air direction door. However, one major possibility is an issue that occurred with some Edge's concerning a coolant/heater core issue that can lead to plugged coolant lines in the heating systems. There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) and an extended warranty on Edge heater cores due to this issue. My advice would be to bring your Edge in for service and ask them about the heater core issue. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi moreheads. :D The screw caps I was discussing were purchased at a "Strauss Auto" store. It is a franchise auto store like "Pep Boys" etc.. The caps are usually used to hide the license plate screws so they are usually displayed in the same area as license plate frames. I have also purchased them in the past from my local speed store. Again, usually available in gloss black, chrome and a few colors. I don't think many Ford Dealer would normally carry an aftermarket item like those particular screw caps, but it never hurts to ask. The pushpins are more generic (they are used to fasten carpet, interior pieces etc.) so your local Ford Dealer may be able to sell you something. But again, the pushpins would be available at any large auto store. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi pops. :D While some people sometimes seem to not like this recommendation, here is what I advise: The cruise control system is not generally an owner serviceable item. Therefore, since you have a 2010 model and assuming it is still within the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty (and even if it is not), you need to take it in for proper diagnosis and service. I know this is not much help while you are on a long road trip, but there is not much that can be done otherwise. Is there a chance you can take time out during the road trip to stop at a nearby Ford Dealership for service? In my opinion, there is no sense trying to troubleshoot it yourself. For example, even if a fuse was blown, replacing the fuse does not address the underlying problem that caused the fuse to blow in the first place and it will usually just blow again.. This issue needs proper diagnosis and repair. Well, for what it is worth that is one mans opinion. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi AXCL. :D "National Lampoon's Van Wilder". :party2: Knew that one without cheating (Googling). I will collect my ten points now, thank you! Let us know what you find out, AXCL. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Marc. :D The tail lights were not designed to nor should they have water in them. Tail lights are not fishbowls. The fact that the other MKX's at the Dealer may have also had water in them only shows that they also have the same manufacturer defect as yours. Do not settle for any answer telling you "That is the way they were designed...". They need to be replaced. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hello again, my friend! :D You may be correct. However, you cannot compare Ford Dealer and Tire Rack or other large distributor prices. Here is what I would do: Call The Tire Rack back. Tell them you have a 2011 Edge and ask them to quote the price of "valve-type" TPMS sensors for your vehicle. Then ask them for a price quote for the "band-type" sensors are for the 2006-2009 Edge (if they ask, say you are asking for your Brother-in-law or just because you want to know). I am sure you know that you must purchase the valve-type sensors. The 2006-2009 "band-type" sensors are not compatible with your Edge. See how prices match up to the information you already have. Just my advice, for what it's worth. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi AXCL. :D Gotcha. All in good fun and thank you for keeping it polite and amusing the entire trip. Does not always happen on the Internet, unfortunately. Well, at least we have come to some type of common ground. The thing is, I don't need to try the "partial-auto settings". I understood from the beginning how they work and was only trying to help you understand. In fact, I rarely use full or partial-auto unless completely necessary (extremely cold or hot weather). In this way, I don't suffer the mileage penalty of the A/C compressor possibly being engaged. In the winter I usually operate the EATC on full manual, with the heat going to the registers I feel necessary. Do use auto sometimes though (more so in hot, hot summertime). To put it another way, I was already enlightened to all the wonders of the Ford EATC system and was simply trying to help you also see the light. However, just so history is not completely revised, let's remember why we are here in the first place (since it seems to have gotten lost during this long strange journey), this was the earlier post of yours that got the fun started (or me involved anyway ): In case it slipped your mind (which it seems might have happened), you were not happy with the partial-auto setting when you had it set to defrost. Remember when you were complaining that your car would not heat up to the temp setting of 72* on a 60* day (would only get to ~"65*") while you had it set to partial-auto with the defroster setting manually engaged? I do. :shades: As your complaint stated, only heated to about 65*. Perhaps in too much detail, I kept trying to explain to you why your hands and feet were cold when the EATC was set to partial-auto with front defroster manually selected. I guess the shorter answer would have been, "Of course your hands and feet were frozen when you have the system set to partial-auto with the front "Defroster" button engaged!!! You are aiming all the hot air up at the windshield through the defroster registers (remember that part about hot air rising, and partial-auto hamstringing the systems ability to regulate the cabin temperature...?). And since your subsequent posts resisted that realization and held on to a "bit" of a stubborn resistance to realizing how the EATC system actually works (as opposed to how some people may "want" it to work), I kept trying to explain in more and more detail. So the fun began and here we are! Ironically, this discussion has begun to remind me of trying to explain to my wife how one type of electronic device or another works. An amusing example: Wifey, day one - "This stupid thing is not working right!" Me -"Yes, honey. It does not quite work that way. Did you read the Manual? You need to..." Wifey - "I don't think that is right...I think it works this way..." Wifey, day two - "This stupid thing is still not working right!" Me - "Yes, honey. But it does not quite work that way. Did you follow my instructions or read the Manual. You need to..." Wifey - (with absolutely no reply to "Did you follow my instructions..."): "I don't think that is right...I think it works this way..." Wifey, day three - "This stupid thing is still not working right..." Me - "Yes honey. But it does not quite work that way. Did you follow my previous directions? You need to..." Wifey - (again no reply to "Did you follow my previous directions"): "I don't think that is right...I think it works this way...It should work like this and this stupid thing still does not work right..." Me - "Yes honey, but at least try to use it like the Manual and I have explained, then we will see..." Wifey, day four - "Well yes, you might be kind of right...but not really... and I still don't think it should work that way so I might keep using it my way sometimes..." Me - "Okay honey. As long as you understand it will not work as well as it should..." Wifey - "Alright, alright, alright. Yes, you might be right, but why do you have to keep telling me the same thing over and over and over...?" Me - What is running through the back of my mind to say, but "discretion is the better part of valor" so I definitely do not: "Well Sweetums, I keep saying the same thing over and over because you keep complaining that it is not working right, I keep telling you how to use it properly, and you keep ignoring me, insisting on doing it your way and telling me it still is not working right! So pay attention and I will only need to say it once, Sweetums...". Instead, what I actually say is some variation of: "Yes dear, I am just happy that you are happy..." So AXCL, I am now overjoyed that we have reached the point where I can sincerely say to you, "Yes dear, I am happy that you are happy...!" :roses: All in good fun AXCL! Best of luck with your Edge! :beerchug: PS - By the way, this: "How do you know I'm not just keeping this tread going to see if I can get you to write any longer posts then the previous ones.", was just not right in the least!!! But it was funny! :hysterical2:

Hi wilson. :D Your head hurts!? I am having so much "fun", I need a three pound aspirin just to dull the headache and wrist pain from all this typing. At least, you can choose not to read this exercise in futility at all. I am trying to help AXCL understand the EATC system, at some time in the hopefully not so distant future (God willing). :shades: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi inspector. :D As akirby stated, once the Dealer reprogrammed your existing and new Dealer key, the lost key was no longer programmed correctly for remote entry or to start your vehicle. Any key that was not programmed together with the first two will no longer be recognized by the PATS system.(to explain it in a simple manner). On the other hand (and be sure to read all the way through), it is still cut properly so it "could" be used to gain access to your vehicle using the drivers door or trunk keyholes. However, I would not worry about this, since if the key is ever found, how will a random person who found it locate your vehicle? I would not worry about Dealership Employees, since if they wanted to make a key to your vehicle, they could always access the system and do so anyway. Bottom line? The lost key can no longer be used to gain remote entry or start the vehicle. So lost or not, it would make little sense to have the drivers door and trunk locks "re-keyed" simply for a lost key with no identification on it (in my opinion, of course), I would recommend you not worry and just enjoy your vehicle. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi AXCL :D . I still have carpal tunnel from the last reply, so here is a shorter one (EDIT - Well, in retrospect it kept growing and growing! ): Out of that entire term paper of information explaining the EATC system, that is what you picked out to partially quote to try to make a point? Really Sheldon... I mean AXCL? AWWW...come on now Sheldon.... "Bazinga" (love that show)! First, by quoting only the first first four words of my reply to #3, you have quite egregiously quoted me out of context. That was very naughty. If you quote my entire answer, (or even just a sentence or two later in the reply, where I clearly stated "..making those changes takes the system out of full automatic mode so it can no longer efficiently regulate the cabin temperature setting", it is quite apparent that my answer addresses the very subject I was attempting to address ((full "AUTO" versus partial "AUTO"). Even your photos show that pressing "Defrost" took your EATC system out of full "AUTO" and placed it in partial "AUTO" where only the fan is still on "AUTO". See how the "AUTO" icon/wording has shifted in photos 1 and 2 from straddling the register and fan speed fields to being located directly over the fan speed field? As your photos show, you are out of full "AUTO" and only the fan speed (and temperature) is still on ":AUTO". Thus partial and not fully effective "AUTO" function. Again, the problem here is you expect full "AUTO" control of the cabin temperature while exercising manual control. That simply is not the way the system is designed. See below for more comprehensive explanations (well anyway, repeats of my previous explanations). While either my replies are a bit confusing or your understanding is a bit off (I will even volunteer to take the hit for unclear explanations if I have to :shades: ), this isn't Theoretical Physics, "Sheldon Cooper" (have I mentioned I love that show). Warm air rises! You can't expect the HVAC system to blow warm air only at the windshield, yet still keep you and your passengers warm. This is especially true the larger the differential between the outside temperature and what you want the inside/cabin temperature to be. So the colder the day, the unhappier you will be with the EATC set to "AUTO" and manually to front defrost (as I have previously stated and your experience shows). Now that we have the quoting out of context thing settled, Second: You have to carefully read both what I stated in my replies and what your Owners Manual states (and I quoted). It is very simple, by hitting the front defroster or any other air redirection button, you have taken it out of full "AUTO" and placed it in partial "AUTO" (fan on auto), as I have stated several times now. Hitting any of the air redirection or fan speed buttons takes it out of "Full Auto" control, leaving the other controls on auto. So while this does leave the EATC in partial "Auto"mode, that obviously leaves the system hamstrung since once you have manually taken the system out of full "AUTO by using the air redirection or fan speed buttons. By doing so, you are hampering it's ability to fully control the cabin temperature by redirecting air (or air volume) to the areas needed. Again, warm air/heat rises and you are essentially manually forcing the EATC system to blow all the warm air up at the windshield, but complaining that you and the rest of the passenger compartment aren't getting warm enough. Yikes, that is not logical, "Sheldon". Simply put, at this point you expect to be able to exercise partial manual control (placing the system in partial automatic mode) by telling it where to send warm air, but for some reason still expect the system to operate in full "AUTO" mode and maintain cabin air temperature automatically. If you would simply read your Owners Manual, you would see that it clearly states that can not be done. You must hit "AUTO" and leave it alone. As I have quoted previously, the Manual states that if you hit "Defroster" or any other air redirection button, you must hit "AUTO" to return to full automatic control. The fact that your system is not working as you like it (while you insist on ignoring the Owners Manual instructions) should give a hint that your ideas on how the system "should' operate are incorrect (again, assuming there is not a glitch that needs addressing by the Service Department). In addition, I notice you completely overlooked this paragraph in my previous reply to you ("Bazinga"! ): "Anyway, try using the system a day or two as it is designed to be used and as I have described. If you still have any complaints with the cabin temperature at that point, then there is likely an issue with your particular vehicle that needs addressing by the Dealership/Ford. Again, at least try using the system for two or three days as designed, as the Owners Manual tells you to operate it and how I have explained to operate it. If you still have a complaint, then your car may need service. But you can't keep operating it incorrectly and expect it to work as designed. Essentially, you keep ignoring the advice, your Owners Manual and your experiences with your own vehicle etc,, yet telling me this advice, the Owners Manual and the accounts of your personal experiences are incorrect. So use the EATC system as it is designed to be used (if you want and expect full auto functions), then let us know if you still feel the same way "Bazinga" again, right back at ya', Sheldon Cooper! Good luck. :beerchug: PS - AXCL, hope you understand I am taking this all in good fun and just joking back with you (although the information being provided is still correct). :grouphug: PPS - Allen, you are correct,that the MyFord and MyFordTouch EATC systems work slightly differently than 2007-2010 EATC;s. But I took that into account when I researched how the system works in the Owners Manual and other service literature for the replies to AXCL's questions. And in the end, once out of full auto, the results are essentially still the same as previous model years EATC systems.

Hi mel. :D Do you mean on the vehicle itself? Assuming that is what you are asking, the VIN is on a plate located on the drivers side of the dashboard, by the base of the windshield. Stand outside the vehicle by the front edge of the drivers door and look through the windshield at the area where the dash meets the base of the windshield. You will see a metal plate plate (~ 4" x 3/4") with the VIN embossed on it. Or you can look at your vehicle registration and it will be located there also. It is also located on numerous body panel stickers throughout the car, on various pieces of the paperwork you received when you purchased, etc.. However, the two simplest places to find it will be the above mentioned spots. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi John. :D Well, looking at the details provided, here is what we know: 1 - There was no pull with the factory 20" wheels/tires 2 - A set of 18" wheels/tires were installed and there is now a pull to the right. That pretty much isolates the cause of the issue to the 18" wheels/snow tires, since the problems began as soon as the wheels/tires were changed. Where did you purchase the new wheels/tires from? Was it from the Dealer that did the alignment? Essentially, you should return to the shop that sold you the 18" wheels/tires and have them address the issue. Could be a wheel problem (not true or improper run-out), could be a tire problem (multiple possibilities), or it could be both (although that is the least likely scenario). But since the alignment was okay with the factory wheels, it is not the likely cause of your current problem. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Burtman. :D I believe you are correct and the sizes/part #'s are not listed in the Owners Manual. However, iIf by "what size" you mean what lengths to purchase, just take a tape measure and measure the blades on your Edge now. The winter blades will be the same length. The only difference between regular and winter blades is construction and materials. If you go to your local auto parts store, or even the "big box" stores like Costco, Kmart etc., they usually have charts right in the wiper display areas that list the specs for all vehicles. Or just ask someone in the auto parts department for winter wiper blades for a 2011 Edge. Keep this in mind: If you decide to measure for yourself (which I would recommend, just to be sure the parts person gets it correct) round your measurements up. In my experience, the actual wiper length when physically measured is often slightly shorter than the advertised length. So for example, if your measurement is 21.5", purchase the 22" blade. And measure both sides, as the driver and passenger side blades are different lengths. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jeffreyreeve. :D Congratulations! Just a little bit of help. You can download a PDF version of your Owners Manual (and other Owner Guides) here: LINK: Ford Owner Guides It is the Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Owners website, so just fill in your vehicle year, make , model in the drop down boxes and flow the prompts to download whichever Owner Guides you would like. In fact, while you are on the initial page, register on the Ford Owners site for future reference. The site has some handy tools. Concerning programming an IKT key: As explained in the Owners Manual, you will not be able to program one yourself unless you have two already programmed in your possession. That is an anti-theft deterrent. You will need to have it done by a Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealer. I have heard anecdotal stories that some locksmiths have the ability to program a second key with only one programmed key in hand, but can not vouch for that fact. You might want to think about having two extra keys programmed now. In this way, if you should ever lose one, you will still have two and can purchase and program another yourself (the programming instructions are in the Owners Manual). Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDIT - CanuckG had not posted when I began composing my reply, so some of my information is now repetitive. I'm a slow typer! In addition, looking at Canucks photos, I wish I lived close enough to take advantage of his detailing services. I am pretty darn good for a non-professional. However, while keeping in mind that the detail in photos can be deceiving, all I can generally say when looking at those two pictures is...WOW...the work put into that paint finish looks good! Hi egam. :D Yes, various types of bright light, the angle the light is reflecting off the surface etc. etc. can all affect what is seen in a vehicle finish. Bright light, whether it be sunlight, fluorescent or other, hitting scratches at the correct angle, will make them much easier to see. For example, that is one reason why a new vehicle should always be picked up on a bright sunny say. Darkness and rain can hide finish imperfections quite readily. My thoughts? Since you clearly state the scratches are not visible at all in natural light (the only light you normally see your Edge in before this detailing), I tend to believe they were there previously. Otherwise, it would have been very simple for the Detailer to never mention them at all, park the vehicle outside, and you would have never been any wiser sine they are essentially not visible in outside lighting. The bottom line (in my opinion only, of course)? There is no sense in feeling "cheated". Who were you cheated by? You have had the vehicle for three months and never noticed the imperfections before. Then you could see them under the detailers lighting. However, when you reexamined it outside after the detailing, you could not see them either. So they may very well have been there before the detailing. Maybe a cat jumping on your car using the chrome beltline molding as a ladder step, birds,, neighborhood kids, etc. etc.? Or the scratches may have been there from the factory. Or they may not have been. As you can see, I am just theorizing wildly now to point out there is no way to determine what may have happened. Therefore, no sense in making baseless accusations or feeling cheated. Just one of life's' mysteries, with no way to prove it either way. Actually, why not feel lucky that the scratches can not be seen in sunlight, since that is where your car is the vast majority of the time? Should you have examined the vehicle in both outdoor and indoor light before you took possession from the Dealership? Well, it would be a more thorough examination. However, we all have to draw the line somewhere as to how far we want to go and that decision would be a personal one. Myself? I make sure to take delivery/examine my new vehicles outside on a nice sunny day before I sign the papers. While I would not take delivery at night or on a rainy day, I have never made the Dealer move the vehicle to enable me to examine it indoors and outdoors (but that is just me). Trust me, I keep fanatical care of my vehicles and think I know every inch of them. But since they are parked outside, usually uncovered, new things pop up every once in a while and I can't know how they occurred. Unless our vehicles are kept indoors and hermetically sealed from the outside world and its dangers, we never have "total control" over them. All we can do is use the correct automotive finish products necessary to correct what happens to them, live with it and enjoy driving them.. Again, for what it is worth, this is simply one mans opinion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi GreenDragon. :D With the 2010 and earlier Edge/MKZ, the answer was a definite no. Upon vehicle start-up, the climate control system on 2010 and earlier Edge/MKX models would resume the last setting at vehicle shut-down. So if it was off when you last shut-down, it would be off upon start-up. However, this may have changed with the 2011 models with MyFord and MyFordTouch. The information I have read states that there are user configurable settings to vary what the system does on vehicle start-up, in some cases no matter what it was last set to on vehicle shut-down. This sounds similar to the situation you are describing. Until I research a 2011 Owners Manual or other service literature, I can not verify how this affects the various Edge models with MyFord or MyFordTouch systems, each individual EATC system (there seem to be 3), whether it only has to do with Remote Start systems, etc. etc.. Have you read the Climate Control and other user configurable settings sections for your particular EATC system in your Owners Manual? My apologies for not being able to give more accurate information, but until someone with more on-hand knowledge jumps in with a reply, that may be your quickest way to get an answer to your questions. If I can find any useful information, I will post back. Keep us updated if you find any concrete answers. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi AXCL. Thanks you for understanding that I am only trying to help. The short story is pressing any air redirection or fan speed button will take the EATC system out of "full auto" and hamper/alter its ability to warm (or cool) the cabin to a set temperature. It also locks in certain settings that you did not hit buttons for (runs in a partial auto/non-full auto setting). And the larger the variation between the exterior ambient temperature and the temperature the driver sets the EATC system to, the worse this effect will be. This is how Ford EATC systems (and most automotive EATC systems) are designed to operate. By definition, "AUTO" is auto and once you manually choose a setting other than "AUTO" by redirecting air direction or volume, the system is no longer controlling all functions automatically. So it is not operating in/with full automatic function and all bets are off concerning cabin temperature control. We can either leave it in full "AUTO" (and don't touch any other HVAC buttons changing airflow) or have manual control of one sort or another thereby disabling full auto operation. But we can't do both at the same time. :stop: Now, if that explanation doesn't cut the mustard or walk the bulldog, then with a "VERY LONG REPLY WARNING" given in advance, read on. But don't anyone say I did not warn them.: AXCL, your theory/theories are based on some basic misunderstandings of the EATC system in general and an idea of how you would like the system to work, not how it actually works. My explanations are based on how the system is designed to work, how it actually operates if operating correctly (keeping in mind possible MyFord/MyFordTouch/other production glitches in mind) and how it is actually explained in the Owners Manual. So what I explained above in previous replies and what I am explaining below is based that assumption that your EATC unit is working as designed and does not have some sort of glitch that will be addressed by software updates. If you reread my [previous reply, you will see that I quoted several passages from the Owners Manual which answer your questions. For the sake of clarity, I will quote your questions/statements, then answer them. And I will certainly try to quote each question in context. Again, please keep in mind that I am only trying to help. 1 - "I think we agree that If I use full 'AUTO" and my internal temp doesn't reach what I set it to, then something is wrong." - Yes, we absolutely agree on that. Therefore, what I would like you to do is use the system set to full "AUTO" without touching any other redirect or fan speed buttons on a drive that lasts longer than sat, 20 minutes. Do this on two drive days. If the system warms the cabin up properly, then we have solved the "problem" as being a simple misunderstanding of how the system operates.. If it does not, then your EATC is not working correctly. 2 - "Again, this is just based on theory! You seem to know the unit inside and out so, but I don't see anything in the manual that would make me think otherwise, and to me, it wouldn't make sense if it did." - I quoted several passages in the Owners Manual that explain how pressing the "Defroster, fan and other buttons take the system out of "AUTO. I will do so again below to answer a few of your individual questions. 3 - "With the Mytouch, I have the ability to have the fan on AUTO, while still manually controlling the vents." - No, you are mistaken. You don't have that ability. That is the major cause of our disconnects concerning on how the system works/is designed. It is actually very simple. While you have the ability to make changes, making those changes takes the system out of full automatic mode so it can no longer efficiently regulate the cabin temperature setting. THis entire discussion really boils down to that. The EATC will only automatically (and efficiently) regulate the overall cabin temperature if left on "AUTO" alone. Once you change any setting, you have manually altered the settings and by definition it is no longer on "AUTO". The only way the system works on "AUTO" is to set it to "AUTO" and leave it there. Hit no other buttons redirecting the air or changing the fan speed. That is why I stated in my previous post (and quoted the Owners Manual), "...for all three EATC systems in the 2011 Edge, the descriptions for the front "Defrost" button operation all end with some variation of this phrase "To return to full automatic control, touch AUTO.". That is because pressing the front defrost button takes the system off "AUTO". The EATC system will not automatically (and efficiently) regulate cabin temperature until you press "AUTO" and return control to the EATC system. 4 - "...but I'm looking at the climate control in the same way as a basic (home) heating unit. If you set a home heater to 72, but set the fan low, it will take a lot longer to reach 72 and may not get there," Sorry for the partial quote, but this sort of cuts to the heart of the matter. You need to put that thought out of your head. An automobile system works differently than the home system you describe. In fact, not even all home heating systems work as you described. And even if the Ford EATC did work the same way, you answer your own question with this part of your quote. "it will take a lot longer to reach 72 and may not get there". Exactly, and in the case of a car, it will not get there for several reasons. Cars are not insulated as well as homes. The passengers are sitting less than 1 foot from major glass surfaces (extremely poor temperature insulators). Try this experiment - On a below freezing day, sit in your home for an hour about a foot away form a large window. You will feel much colder than what the rooms ambient temperature is set to. You will feel much colder than you will if you were to move only 6 feet away from that window. Another example (can't perform this test in a baseboard hot-water heated home, unless you shut water valves): Let's say you have a two (or multi) floor home. Block all the first floor heat registers so that only the second floor gets heat. Obviously, the first floor of your home will certainly get colder than the desired temperature, since heat rises and will not fall. Well, this is similar to only having heated air come out the defroster vents. The heat is directed up and will not efficiently reach the passengers. Plus, in your example, you have the system locked in at blowing 72* air once you took the system out of full "AUTO" by pressing the front defroster button. 5 - "..but I don't see anything in the manual that would make me think otherwise, and to me, it wouldn't make sense if it did. Also if this wasn't the case, what would the AUTO fan run based on?". Sorry for the repetition and again, for the partial quote. I separated this into two a=sections for the sake of clarity. You seem to be looking for something in the Manual which states something similar to, "Warning: If while the "EATC" system is set to "AUTO", you press any button which redirects the air or changes fan speed, the system will no longer work automatically to control the cabin temperature to the setting displayed on the unit". Well, yes, you re correct that it makes no statement similar to that anywhere in the Owners Manual. So on a stretch, we could fault the Owners Manual as perhaps being a bit vague. However, the "AUTO setting is described in this direct quote taken from the Manual (which I also included in my previous reply) - "AUTO: Touch to engage full automatic operation. Select the desired temperature using the temperature control. The system will automatically determine fan speed, airflow distribution, A/C on or off, and outside or recirculated air, to heat or cool the vehicle in order to reach the desired temperature.". Again, by definition, when combined with the previous Owners Manual quote stating, "...for all three EATC systems in the 2011 Edge, the descriptions for the front "Defrost" button operation all end with some variation of this phrase "To return to full automatic control, touch AUTO.", it becomes clear how the system operates. 6 - "I don't see why using it this way should SIGNIFICANTLY effect the Climate controls ability to reach the correct temp, or as I understand you are stating, disable the validity of the temp setting." Again, asked and answered. Taking the system out of "AUTO", by definition, significantly reduces the temperature control efficiency. The EATC system uses specifically placed interior and exterior temperature and sunload sensors to control cabin temperature. If you manually change where and how the air is distributed, the system, is no longer controlling what occurs, so how can you expect it to automatically control things. Again, a car is not insulated like a house. Turn off the heat in the house on a cold day and it will take a full day (and likely much more) for the interior temperature to reach the ambient outside temperature. Turn off the engine and heat in a car and the interior temperature will equal the exterior in as little as an hour (or less). The interior of a car is a very extreme environment,t so therefore the HVAC system is designed to regulate that extreme environment in particular ways. Also, when heat in a car is called for by the EATC, it will generally direct most heat to the floor registers (remember, heat rises). Yes, it will direct flow to the defroster vents, the dash vents or mix things up according to what is needed at the moment, but optimal passenger comfort is achieved by having heat directed to the floor vents (again, heat rises). Manually set the system to front defroster registers only and you screw things up (to put it bluntly) by directing all heat flow up high, leaving you and your passengers feet, legs and bodies in the cold. Yes, of course the cabin will eventually fill with warmer air if the fan is also set high enough, but the warmest air will be up high, with only air that is cooling/cold falling into the footwells (cool/cold air drops). So humorously put, you wind up with warm hair and a cold body, legs and feet. You have to look at it this way. The EATC system gives you great setting flexibility. Among other things, you can: 1 - Set it to "AUTO" and have the system itself automatically/completel/totally control the ambient cabin air temperature. The EATC will automatically decide which registers to use, what fan speed to use and what air temperature is necessary at any particular moment in time according to circumstancesthe EATC system chooses. 2 - You can set it to a particular temperature and manually control where the air is directed and the system will send air heated to the temperature you desired to the place you desired suing the register controls. But this takes the system out of full auto and it will not necessarily get the cabin temperature to the set temperature, especially when the interior and exterior temperatures vary significantly. So in this case 72* heated air through the defroster vents (or other vents) you choose. 3 - You can set it to a particular temperature and manually control how much air is directed out of the system using the fan speed control. But again, this takes the system out of full auto and it will not necessarily get the cabin temperature to the set temperature, especially when the interior and exterior temperatures vary significantly. So in this case, 72* air at the fan speed you choose. 4 - You can set it to a particular temperature and then combine the properties of options 2 & 3 and manually control where and how much air at your desired temperature is distributed by using both the register and fan speed controls. But again, this takes the system out of full auto and it will not necessarily get the cabin temperature to the set temperature, especially when the interior and exterior temperatures vary significantly. So in this case, 72* air from wherever choose, at whatever fan speed you choose. 5 - In certain register settings, you can control whether this heated (or cooled) air is dried of humidity by turning the "A/C" control on or off. This is done by enabling the A/C compressor. Also, the A/C setting is enabled automatically in the "DEFROSTER" position to lower the humidity of the airflow to the windshield, thus drying/defogging the windshield . 6 - With "AUTO" and "A/C" turned off, you can just leave it venting exterior temperature ambient air or heated air on the minimum fan setting or higher, open the windows, shut the whole darn system off, etc. etc.. But in the end, the only setting that will entirely control the cabin temperature within system specs is setting it to "AUTO" and leaving it on "AUTO". Once you press another register button to redirect air flow or a fan speed button to increase/decrease air flow, you have taken it out of full automatic mode and hamstrung it's ability to regulate the overall cabin temperature. It will then only blow air heated (or cooled) to your desired temperature to the area you chose, at the air flow you chose. And if your choices are different than the optimum setting that "AUTO' would choose, then the cabin temperature will be adversely affected. While I respect your right to feel otherwise, I don't agree that this is a poor design. It is how Ford (and mot automotive) EATC's have always operated, but has even more flexibility than in the past. Without me going on any longer than this long reply already has: While it is now part of the MyFord/MyFordTouch realm, the EATC system in your Edge operates as all Ford EATC systems do. If you press "AUTO" and do not press any other buttons redirecting the air or changing the fan speed, it will get the cabin temperature to the desired setting (within the system designs margin of error, of course). However, if you redirect the air by manually changing the settings (i.e. hitting the front defrost button) or changing the fan speed, by definition you have now assumed manual control over the system and it will not automatically control the desired temperature and can not operate in full "AUTO" mode. The Owners Manual quotes I have included make this apparent (if perhaps not completely crystal clear). The bottom line? Please do as I asked earlier in this reply. While on a drive of at least 20 minutes, use the EATC system properly as designed. Place it on "AUTO" and leave it alone. If you need to use the front defroster on high to melt ice etc., do so only long enough to melt the ice, then press "AUTO" to return the system to full automatic control (as the Owners Manual clearly states). You will find that the cabin temperature will be automatically controlled and more directly reflect the set temperature. Otherwise, you are continuing to use the system improperly (or at least not as it is designed to be properly used) yet complaining about the results. (BAD ANALOGY WARNING) Until you actually try to use the system as designed, it's like you are trying to use a Phillips head screwdriver to insert a slotted screw, complaining about the poor results, then telling the person who tells you to use the correct tool that they are both called screwdrivers so if it does not work the way I want it to, it is designed poorly. Hey, I warned you a bad analogy was coming. Anyway, try using the system a day or two as it is designed to be used and as I have described. If you still have any complaints with the cabin temperature at that point, then there is likely an issue with your particular vehicle that needs addressing by the Dealership/Ford. And please realize I am not discounting the fact that your EATC may have a glitch/problem and be operating improperly. I am strictly discussing a properly working system. Sorry for the looooong treatise (and repetition), but I am trying to address as much as possible to get the information across. :stats: In doing so, I am trying to answer the questions in as many ways as possible, so that we don't both have to keep repeating ourselves asking/answering the same questions. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :grouphug: PS - I only gave this term paper a very quick proofread, so please excuse any/all grammatical, spelling or typographical errors.

Hi AXCL. :D A lot of information, so I will address what I can (hopefully in an understandable manner). First, out of curiosity what year is your Edge ( I am assuming a 2011) and which of the three EATC systems is your Edge equipped with? Next, just to correct this misconception upfront: It is a fact that on a properly operating Ford EATC HVAC system, the full "AUTO" function is disabled if any of the directional or fan speed buttons are pushed. Pushing those buttons means the driver is now manually controlling the system. So if you change the settings to "Defrost" (again, only front), the floor, defrost/floor, dash registers etc., or change the fan speed, the "AUTO" setting is disabled. As an example: In the Owners Manual, for all three EATC systems in the 2011 Edge, the descriptions for the front "Defrost" button operation all end with some variation of this phrase "To return to full automatic control, touch AUTO.". That is because pressing the front defrost button takes the system off "AUTO". The same goes if you redirect the air manually through any of the other register settings In addition, if you read the descriptions for the "AUTO" setting, they all are some variation of this, "AUTO: Touch to engage full automatic operation. Select the desired temperature using the temperature control. The system will automatically determine fan speed, airflow distribution, A/C on or off, and outside or recirculated air, to heat or cool the vehicle in order to reach the desired temperature.". So as you can see, in normal use, there should (usually) be no need to hit the front defrost or any other directional or fan speed button, as the system will make necessary changes automatically. If it does not, there is some sort of underlying issue that needs diagnosis. If you do need to use full front defrost for heavy ice etc, then once the need for the full front defroster is over, you need to hit "AUTO" at some point to regain full "AUTO" functions. If you don't, the interior temperature will not get to your set temperature on a cold day. Now, to your particular issue: It is entirely possible that you have some sort of EATC issue. But there are so many variables thrown into the mix with the new MyFord/MyFordTouch interface, the remote start system and the fact that we can't actually see what is happening that your best course of action is probably (unfortunately) to set up a Service appointment to have this issue diagnosed and corrected if necessary. While it is not anyone's first choice to revisit the Dealer, in this way you can explain and demonstrate the issues to the Techs first hand. And the Tech can examine things first hand. At this point, all any of us can do is take well intentioned educated guesses Just so you understand, I am not trying to discourage you from asking questions here. I am only trying to point out that your system is either working correctly, or it is not. If it is working correctly, then this is just a matter of you gaining a better understanding of how the system works. The new MyFord/MyFordTouch systems can be hard to understand in the beginning. However, if it is not working correctly (possibly due to a MyFord/MyFordTouch teething issue?), then no matter what we come up with a Service visit will be necessary, so why not get it done sooner than later (only my opinion, of course). If you bring it in, explain your concerns and it winds up that the system is working correctly, it still will cost you nothing and the wondering will be over. Again, for what it is worth this is only my opinion. Hope some part of this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug: Hi GreenDragon. :D You are very welcome and good luck! :beerchug:

Hi edge10. :D Forgot option #4 - You can hit the Information Center's "RESET" button and it will temporarily turn off the TPMS light. However, at best the warning light will return the next time you restart the vehicle. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi edge10. :D No, at this point in time, the TPMS system cannot be disabled/deactivated. Essentially, you have several choices. 1 - Install sensors on the new wheels. 2 - Cover the light with a piece of tape. 3 - Learn to live with it. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug: