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Hi mceast. :D Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I am not sure what type of "collaboration" you are looking for, but I will answer what I can. For example: 1 - Yes there are companies that repair bent and damaged wheels. However, most auto Dealers (Ford and otherwise) do not deal with repairing wheels. The best they could have done was recommend a wheel repair company, if they deal with such a company (and most new car Dealers do not). 2 - Yes, if the wheels were damaged by contact with some sort of road obstruction, the replacement/repair would not be Warranty covered. Concerning the rest of my reply, let me first make it clear I am definitely not trying to give you a hard time, and I am placing no blame on you or the choices you made. I am simply giving a different perspective on the situation. So dealing with whether your wheels were repairable and what the "Service Advisor" told you: Whether your wheels were repairable could only be determined by a wheel repair specialist. And the average Service Advisor is generally not a wheel repair specialist. So whether your wheels were repairable can not be determined at this point. Determining if the wheels were repairable was something you would have needed to research yourself before going ahead with the purchase of new wheels. Would it be nice if the "Service Advisor" (or someone) could provide every bit of information we might need? Yes, but it is not a point we can take for granted. Like purchasing anything in life, "buyer beware" are good words to live by. Concerning the cost of the replacement wheels you purchased: Like purchasing anything (from a can of peas to a new car or house) it is up to us to shop around. The price of parts at Dealerships is negotiable (and generally higher than online or other parts retailers). Did you pay MSRP retail for the wheel or higher? Bottom line is the Dealer can quote any price they like for non-Warranty parts and repairs, so it is up to us to shop around, compare prices and negotiate to be sure we get the best deal we can. And unfortunately to top it all off, automobile Dealers are individual franchises which the automakers (in this case Ford)in many aspects of day-to-day business have little control over. Again, Ford has little to no control over what a Dealer charges you for non-Warranty parts or Non-Warranty service. Bottom line is it is up to us to do our research and be "smart shoppers". I am not telling you to drop your quest for a refund. Just do not invest too much time into it, as the chances of a refund are not that great. I am not saying it won't happen, but the odds are against it. Keep us updated. I really do hope you can get some sort of refund/satisfaction. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi wil. :D Unfortunately, as I mentioned above if the vehicle has MyKey, the information I provided is thrown out the window. MyKey equipped vehicles will cut off the engine when the door is opened and the vehicle must then be restarted with the ignition key The reason is explained below). I did not see you mention having MyKey in your previous post, but I did touch on it briefly in my previous post, just to try and cover all bases. To try and explain the Remote Start/MyKey "issue" briefly (and hopefully understandably): I will assume you know what the purpose of MyKey is (to let parents place certain restrictions on different keys to control what their kids do while driving the vehicle) and what it does. To allow the proper programming to occur when a particular MyKey is used to run the vehicle, the actual key must be used to physically start the vehicle. As of yet, the individual MyKey programming can not be sent via the Remote Start signal. Therefore, to allow the MyKey system to work, if/when the vehicle has been remote started, the engine must be turned off and the individual key inserted and used to restart the car. Otherwise, junior or princess could simply use the remote start to start the vehicle, thus overriding any/all restrictions Mom and Dad tried to place on their "darling little puddin' heads" particular "My Key" key. For those who have MyKey, to my knowledge there currently are only two choices concerning the engine shut-off when using remote start : First, have MyKey disabled by the Dealership. Second, learn to live with it if you want the MyKey functions. So for now, those with Remote Start and MyKey who wish to keep the MyKey function have to live with the slight discomfort of turning the key when they place it in the ignition after remote starting. However, as always you should check with your Dealers Service Department for the latest information. Hopefully my description was understandable and sorry I don't have better news. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi smokey. :D This may be hard to explain in a short Internet post, but I will give it a try: It is going to be very difficult to help you here for several reasons. First of all, with over 5,000 miles, you purchase a used car, not a new one. And A-Plan (or Employee Purchase Plan) only applies to new vehicles. Demo's are not eligible. But if the information you are providing is correct, then the Dealer "sold it to you" as though it was a new vehicle. And even if A-Plan was available during the "A-Plan for everyone event", again your Edge was a used vehicle and even the A-Plan Price would be overpriced for a used Edge with over 5,000 miles on the odometer. So for a start, you should have negotiated that purchase as a used car, and should have received a better/lower price than whatever the Dealer told you "Plan A" (A-Plan) was. Bottom line at this point? In all honesty, your deal is almost 2 1/2 years old and it can not be changed. Essentially, you need to use it as a learning experience. Maybe next purchase you should take along a friend or family member who is more experienced and can assist you in your negotiations. Hopefully you are happy with your Edge otherwise and can just enjoy the rest of the ownership experience. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Van. :D Just regarding the Factory remote start: If the Factory system is working correctly, you do not have to start the car twice. If you have remote started the car, when you enter the car you do have to put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. However, the car is already running and you do not need to turn it to the "Start" position. In other words, the car is already running so you do not need to crank the engine over to start it. If anyone's remote start system is operating otherwise, there is an issue with the vehicle that needs attention (or they have the "MyKey" system which operates differently for particular reasons). Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Van. :D Throwing the exchange rate and tax differences into the usual pricing variables and I will reserve opinion on the price to those who are located in Canada. However, just to comment on the question of "If I order a 2011 Edge, will I be able to get within $4000 of this price?". You certainly will not see Incentives on the 2011 models like you received on the 2010, at least not early in the 2011 model year. Maybe later in the model year, but that is impossible to forecast now. Good luck. :beerchug: .

Hi killermaze. :D A question like yours will get a myriad of answers and opinions. However, the best advice is to follow the recommendations of those who designed and manufactured your vehicle: Ford. Therefore, unless you are having some particular problem that need to be addressed, follow the Scheduled Maintenance Guide for your vehicle. You were given the Ford Scheduled Maintenance Guide when you purchased your Edge (if you purchased new). If you purchased used, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Ford Owner Guides Fill in the drop down boxes with your vehicle information and click "Submit". The click on "Scheduled Maintenance Guide". If it will make you more comfortable to perform scheduled maintenance a bit sooner than Ford recommends, then do so. But at least having the Maintenance Guide will give you a starting point to make your decisions. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDIT: My good friend Grey had not yet posted his reply when I began typing mine. So my information is now repetitive (and probably unnecessarily lengthier). Once again, I curse my typing skills! Hi billybbob. :D Several things: First, yes, your Dealers behavior was unacceptable and you were "gouged". Second, unless Canadian Warranty rules are different than U.S., you do not need to pay the Dealer for any of these all-in-one "Service Checks". Third, I do feel bad for you. However, if we all just took the time to do some research and read the literature we were given when we purchased our vehicles, it would be harder for the Dealer (or anyone else) to take advantage of us regarding service requirements (as they did with you). Hear is why: As clearly spelled out in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide we are all given when we purchase new, the only maintenance requirements that require more than a "take a look and replace if needed" are oil/filter change, tire rotations, air filter replacements, trans flush, coolant etc... And these specific services have cut and dried mileage/time intervals concerning when to be performed. So there is no need to pay the Dealer to "take a look" at the other fuzzy and unspecified "services" (i.e. "check the brakes, etc.). We can do those checks on our own (and not pay the Dealer). In fact, at U.S Ford Dealers, they perform these "checks" complementary when you have other regular scheduled services performed, such as oil changes. So you can save money by simply having the Dealer change the oil/filter and rotate the tires. Or if you wish, do it yourself and save the receipts for Warranty purposes. For what it is worth, I use coupons and have my Dealer perform the oil changes and tire rotations (usually about $30 total) so that there can be no doubt the work was done, "on-time and properly". Even concerning the tire rotation that was not done, the Service Tech was full of it. The Scheduled Maintenance Guide specifically states to rotate the tires every X,XXX miles. Usually 5,000 or 7,500. The Schedule does not state to check the tread depth and only rotate if the tread depth varies. In fact, the object or regular rotations is to avoid having the tread depth vary greatly. Bottom line is we can all save a little money by knowing the service requirements of our vehicles and only paying for the service that is needed, not the Dealer profit add-ons. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi manny. :D Is it possible to do? Well, like many thing in life, it is "possible". Would it be simple or inexpensive? No, not at all. It would be difficult and not cheap. Just for starters, there are motors, actuators, sensors, wiring harnesses, switches on the dash and in rear cargo compartment (not to mention your current remotes will not have have the correct buttons, etc etc.) which would all need to be purchased/installed/changed. So unless you are wiling to purchase and install all of the necessary components yourself (or have good friend who would do it for beer), any Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealer or aftermarket shop will charge quite a bit for labor. In fact, to be honest most Ford/-L-M Dealers will usually not even touch this type of work (as you saw at your Dealership). The reason? They would then be responsible for any mechanical or electrical problems that may occur later, not Ford. It would not be a Warranty covered item. Not telling you not to try, if you really want to, but it would not be simple or inexpensive. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MKX. :D Don't have the shop manual handy for the 2007 MKX. But off the top of my head I would say that yes, you need to remove the screw under the door handle. And after removing all fasteners, most door panels usually have a top lip that needs to be lifted out of the window channel before pulling outward. However (and possibly more importantly), do you know that Lincoln vehicles come with a 4 year/50,000 mile New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty. And that Warranty transfers to a new owner. So unless you are over the 50,000 mile threshold or there is some other reason we are not aware of (i.e. Salvage Title etc.), the speaker replacement would normally be covered under Warranty. Let us know. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Carla. :D Wow, odd behavior to say the least. Before you contact a lawyer (and sustain the associated costs) contact Ford Customer Service. In addition, contact the Dealer Owner and/or the Dealer Principal. The Service Manager may be able to refuse to service your car, but he can certainly not ban you from the showroom or from speaking to his superiors. If you receive no satisfaction there, then take out the Warranty Guide you were given when you purchased your vehicle (you were given a copy of the Warranty Guide along with the Owners Manual, Scheduled Maintenance Guide, Tire Warranty Guide etc.). In that small guide (maybe 40 pages), you will find information concerning the "BBB AutoLine Arbitration Program". Read it and use it if necessary. Normally, since your car is outside the regular Warranty you would possibly not been eligible. But since Ford extended the warranty on the heater core, this makes it a Warranty covered issue and you should still be eligible to use the BBB AutoLine program to resolve your Dealer issues. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Tom. :D What you describe will work if you have the old TPMS sensors (that were already programmed to your TPMS system) reinstalled. Or in your case, since it was only a repaired tire the old sensors were likely never even removed from the old wheels. So they did not need any programming. Your sensor only needed enough time to register that the tire pressure had been corrected. However, if new sensors are installed, then they need to be programmed to the vehicle TPMS system. That was why I asked Dom for more information (i.e. if he had new sensors installed or reused the old sensors etc.). Hope this clears up any confusion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dr_rayann. :D As tpm stated, required initial warm up is minimal. Essentially, a good way to do things is as follows: The first thing you should do as soon as you get in the car and close the door is start the car. Then put on your seat-belt and do whatever it is you normally do after putting on your seat-belt (e.g. adjust the radio, plug in your phone etc.). That should take up 20-30 seconds, then you and the car are ready to go. If you do not wear your seat belts, don't listen to the radio and don't have a phone, then start the car and you can drive away when you see the tachometer begin to drop from the high warm up idle speed. You do not need to wait for the idle to fully drop to normal, just wait until the rpm's first begin to drop off the high cold idle speed. In addition, we need to keep in mind that being able to drive away does not mean that we can immediately drive the car hard. It takes a good 10 minutes for the engine and all fluids to fully reach normal operating temperatures. So until that happens and the temperature gauge reads in the normal range, the car should be driven moderately (if we would like our cars to last). Good luck. :beerchug:

HI Dom. :D Your are welcome. Another question though. Did you have new TPMS sensors installed on the new wheels/tire set or at least reinstall the old sensors? The reason I ask is because if you did not have TPMS sensors installed on the new wheels/tires, the warning light will always return/continue to illuminate. While it can be turned off temporarily by hitting "Reset" on the information center, it will always return after a short amount of driving time. And you can reset it ((the correct/permanent way) yourself. You only need to purchase the correct TPMS reset tool. It is inexpensive and would be a wise investment for the owner of a TPMS equipped car (in my opinion). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Dom. :D A little more information as to why you need to reset the system would help. Essentially, for many TPMS warning light illuminations, the driver can not physically "reset" the system other than inflating the tires to the proper psi (and for those you can reset for, you usually need the TPMS reset tool). For example: If you received a low pressure waring while driving, then inflating the tire/tires to the proper pressure will eliminate the warning light. It may take a driving cycle to do so. On the other hand: If you replaced a wheel/wheels, tire/tires, TPMS sensor etc. and are now getting a warning light, then the sensor/sensors need to be reset. For that you need to purchase the correct TPMS reset tool or take your car to a Ford Dealer or tire shop for them to reset it. Essentially, all of this and more is explained in detail in the Owners Manual (you must have accidentally overlooked it). It would be a good idea to give the Manual another look and read over the TPMS system information and system warning descriptions, as there are other warnings and explanations as to what they mean and what the driver should proceed to do. And again, we do not know exactly which warning you may be receiving. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D Okay, I will try to answer what I can and give educated guesses on the intangibles. Concerning the loss of power going around the turn: Not sure if there is snow or ice on the ground by you (even sand/salt etc.). If there is, my educated guess would be that the traction control system sensed a loss of traction and dialed back on the throttle/applied the brakes (it can do either, or both, according to the situation). That would be the most likely scenario. You would not necessarily ever actually feel or hear the tires slip, but you would likely feel it "lose of power". That is how quickly the system can work. Hopefully, that was the cause. If not, and it happens again in high traction situations, then you may need to make a service appointment. Now for the PTU: PTU = "Power Take-off Unit". Also some people alternately called it a Power Transfer Unit or Transfer Case. What does the PTU do? Okay everyone, this is a simplified explanation to get igcitng through her Service Department explanations, so please don't form a lynch party to come get me over the small details :stats: : The PTU is the mechanical/viscous coupling in the powertrain, between the front wheels and the rear wheels. When the AWD system senses that your front wheels are losing traction (and other times also), this is the transfer case that activates your AWD system and transfers power to your rear wheels. Essentially, when the front wheels lose traction and spin, things connect in the PTU that then transfer power to the rear wheels. It is a leaking seal/gasket in the PTU, where it connects to the rest of the powertrain, which is the problem some Edge owners are having. Again, this is a simplified explanation with some generalizations, but I am trying to make it easy to explain and understand. Hope this explanation is not too confusing. If it is, let me know and I will try and do a better job of it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi rad. :D It is enabled/disabled through the Driver Information/Message Center. You can scroll through the programmable settings or just look in the Owners Manual. The instructions for all driver programmable features are in the Owners Manual so it would not be a bad idea to take a look through it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Allen. :D Also, not sure if you noticed, but according to one of "Staff's" other threads, the 3.5L also got a horsepower bump to 285. Here is a copy and paste (hope it is not a typo): "The 3.5-liter V-6 produces 285 horsepower and 253 ft.-lb. of torque while the 3.7-liter V-6 delivers 305 horsepower and 280 ft.-lb. of torque." Also good news! Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi k_m. :D And just to add to akirby's helpful and correct information: The warning will reappear periodically. I forget if it is every ten miles, or every 10 minutes of drive time. I think it is ten minutes of drive time (the function is described in the Owners Manual). Each time it does reappear, you can push "Reset" to return to the "Miles to Empty" display. And "staff", sorry for my thread hijack. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi computerguy. :D With all due respect, this is a dance that some of us have been through many times now for several years. We even have Certified Ford Technicians on this forum who have explained this in the past. And I had the DRL's on my neighbors Edge enabled 6 month ago. Takes the Dealer Tech 10 minutes to do the job, if they know what to do. So to answer your questions (or reply to the incorrect information you have been told): 1 - Your Dealer is wrong (and/or too lazy to contact Ford for the correct procedure), and they are not the first Dealer to be incorrect concerning this DRL subject. 2 - Any Edge can have the DRL's enabled/disabled. And any Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealer can perform the work. 3 - They can not be enabled/disabled through the "Info and Reset switches" (a.k.a. Drivers Information Center). If that was the case, please ask your Dealer to show you in the Owners Manual where that procedure is described. All other driver programmable features are explained in detail, with directions, in the Owners Manual. The simple answer is that the DRL's can not be enabled/disabled through the Drivers Information Center. Only the Dealer (or a shop/individual in possession of the Ford Diagnostic computer, an expensive piece of machinery) can enable/disable them. The DRL's are enabled/disabled through the "Exterior Lighting Menu" on the Diagnostic computer. 4 - The option you quote is a fleet option. It is only available on Fleet orders (rental cars fleets, taxi fleets, large corporation company cars etc.).. All that means is that a regular retail buyer (you and me) of an Edge can not order DRL's from the factory. They can still be enabled/disabled through any Ford Dealer who is competent and wishes to help their customers (again, with the Ford Dealers Diagnostic System Computer). The leap of logic you have made that since DRL's are available as a "Fleet only" option means it is not possible to enable/disable DRL's (on other Edge's) is just plain incorrect. Numerous members of this forum, and others Edge owners, have had them enabled and disabled (my neighbor, by me, included). This is not some obscure theory we are discussing. It is absolutely possible and has been done. So if you are trying to have your DRL's enabled, you need to find a Dealer who is willing to take the time to help you. Hope this information helps resolve your confusion on the subject.. Good luck. :beerchug:

HI Allen. :D Yes, first I thought you misunderstood what I was saying, but then I understood your reply when I had the time to read everything a second time. But it was already too late and I had posted a "clearer" explanation that I then realized was not needed. But since we can't completely delete replies here (that I know of), I was left having to just edit it out and leave a brief explanation that my answer was not really needed. :hysterical2: Wow, I'm out of breath now! Good luck. :beerchug:

EDITED - After reading it again, I don't think my answer was really necessary. Good luck Allen! :beerchug:

Sure? Yes. And some quick/basic research on your part would show you that the information provided was correct. And as stated above, in addition to those that use the low beams, some vehicles use the fog light position, so it obviously is not a case of "high beam only". In the Edge, the low beam positions are the DRL's. And the parking lights and taillights are not required to be enabled when DRL's are on in either the U.S. or Canada. Some vehicles may enable them anyway, but that is a manufacturer choice, not by law. And the basis for DRL laws being enacted was not limited to "marginal lighting situations such as at dusk or dawn". It is for all daylight situations, even full sunlight. That is why, for example, there are long, straight and flat highway stretches in Florida (e.g. the infamous "Alligator Alley") where it is mandatory to turn on your headlights at all times, including broad daylight on a sunny day. The lights, no matter what position (high, low or fog), can be seen at a longer distance than the vehicle itself. Keep in mind that Florida is not exactly known as the "Land of the Midnight Sun". Might it make more sense to use the highs? Maybe, but the law does not require it. In other words, "The object of DRLs is to have an oncoming car more readily seen at a distance" to help avoid head on/frontal collisions in all situations. Not only marginal lighting situations. And by law, it does not have to be the high beam position. Essentially any NHTSA approved frontal lighting position can be used as the DRL source.

Hi jones. :D The "flip-key" is simply another type of IKT and it. programs exactly the same way as the factory IKT's. In fact, it simply is an IKT with a hinged key. The instructions for programming IKT's are in the Edge Owners Manual. In the 2008 version I have of the Owners Manual, the instructions begin on page 144 Your page # may differ slightly, but the directions are in the "locks and Security" section.. You must follow the IKT programming instructions precisely as you would a factory Ford IKT. Keep in mind you have to have two already programmed/working keys to program a third or more. If you lost one key and only have one working key, you will need to go to the Dealer to have your new key programmed. That is an anti-theft feature. The programming instructions from the online flip-key sellers such as artiway are just a copy of the Edge Owners Manual instructions. If the flip-key you have will not program following the Owners Manual instructions, then the flip-key (likely the transponder) is defective or you are not following the instructions quite correctly.. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Nogs. :D Just as an FYI: If I am reading your post correctly, I am assuming you mean you were using your Edge to tow a trailer, as opposed to towing your Edge behind another vehicle? If that is the case, the recommended transmission flush and refill interval for Edge's used for towing is 30,000 miles. It qualifies as Severe Duty Service. So if you used your Edge to tow a trailer 3,000 miles, the trans fluid should have been changed at 30,000 miles anyway. You can find this information in your Maintenance Schedule Guide that you were given when you purchased your Edge (if you purchased new). In addition, not sure what type of "stabilizer" your friend was putting in your Edge (i.e. oil, fuel etc..) but Ford specifically tells owners not to use any type of engine, oil. fuel or other additives. This information is in the Owners Manual. If you can not find the Maintenance Schedule Guide, you can download a PDF version here: LINK - Owner Guides Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Cobrakev. :D I would recommend you go to Edmunds.com and work up the price of the Edge model with all equipment/options you re interested in. In this way, you will find the MSRP, Invoice and TMV (True Market Value) for your particular vehicle. The reasons I recommend this are many. But the bottom line is that taking an online poll of what people say, believe or think they paid will not get you any type of accurate figures. Here are just a few reasons why: 1 - Some people will include tax and fees, others will not (even though you asked for the OTD price). 2 - Sales Taxes vary greatly by State. 3 - Incentives and Rebates vary by ZIPCode and date of purchase. So the variance in Incentives received will make any price comparisons worthless. 4 - Dealers sometimes give a low ball new vehicle price, but make up the cost by ripping off the customer on their trade-in and finance rates. 5 - On the flip side of the coin, Dealers sometimes give customers good trade-in offers or loan finance rates, but charge MSRP (or higher) on the new vehicle. So how are you to know which happened to who when you re only getting an OTD price on the new vehicle from those who answer. 6 - To explain 4 and 5 above: Essentially, Salesmen are trained to read the customer and provide whichever seems more important. to them.. A good price on the new vehicle, a good price on the trade-in, a good deal on the financing or a combination of any all of the above. 7 - Some people will simply be confused and innocently provide inaccurate information. 8 - A minority of people on the Internet will simply make figures up. 9 - Some people will quote prices paid on Plans you do not/may not qualify for (and not mention the fact). Such as Ford AXZ-Plan purchases, Costco, AAA, Buyers Choice etc.. That will give skewed results. 10 - Those are only 9 of the reasons it is better to consult a professional source as opposed to anonymous Internet figures. We have seen it all before. For example, in some cases we have had people insist they got these great unbelievable prices on a new vehicle. When asked questions and pressed, we finally discovered that they were including the trade-in allowance on their old vehicle, as though it was some sort of free money. It was as though they did not realize handing over their old vehicle was essentially the same as handing over cash (except for the sales tax credit of course). They didn't realize the trade-in allowance should not be included in the OTD price, it should be included in the overall vehicle cost. Anyway, while it never hurts to ask strangers for pricing information, you will get a much more accurate read on what you should pay by consulting professional sites like Edmunds, KBB etc... Hope you understand I am only trying to help. Good luck with your new purchase. :beerchug: