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Hi Tribby. :D To answer your questions: Yes, it is a simple programming change to enable/disable the DRL's. The Dealer does it through the Exterior Lighting menu in the diagnostic system. Yes, in the case of the Edge the low beams run at reduced output (some vehicles use the high beams, fog light or parking lights). Rest of lights off. Cost will vary according to Dealer. Some will do it for free if you purchased there. Others I have heard charge up to 1 hour labor/diagnostic time. It is a 15-20 minute job. They are not enabled by default in the U.S. because they are not required (they are required by law in Canada) and many people do not like them/do not want them. Therefore, if a customer wants them they can ask to have them enabled. If a customer asks when purchasing, most Dealers will do it for free. Not taking a side, just providing the information. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Joep. :D FWD models do not have a PTU. The PTU is an AWD model component. Even if someone was looking at a used AWD Edge, it would be as simple as checking the PTU for leaking fluid. Just as any used car should be checked for leaking oil, coolant, trans fluid etc., before purchase. Of course, a car can be well cleaned to camouflage leaks, but that is the chance a buyer takes with a used vehicle. But anyway, in your case there is no PTU on a FWD Edge, so no PTU leak worries. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dawulf. :D Once no one replied, I figured I would give you this advice: If you can, wait until the weather is warmer. You are much more likely to damage something if you try to perform repairs on plastic parts in the cold weather. They become stiffer, more brittle and can become damage prone in the cold. Even metal parts become difficult to work with in the cold (as you are finding out). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Bob. :D As Grey stated, no Ford "New Car" Warranty or "Extended" Warranty covers accident or road damage. Damage repair costs would be the responsibility of the drivers/insurance company of the drivers who hit you, your insurance company, or you. No different than if you had purchased instead of leased. ]You can have the damage repaired by a good collision repair shop prior to return. And as long as the damages are repaired correctly, that is fine. Did you contact the insurance company of either driver that damaged your Edge? That would be your best bet. If you do not know who hit you, then you will need to put a claim through your Insurance company or pay out of your own pocket. If you wait until you turn the vehicle in, the vehicle will be assessed for damage (down to little door dings and paint scratches) by an inspector and you will be responsible for all damages out of your own pocket. And from the sound of it, it will be well over $2,000 just for those two incidents. It will cost you less to have it repaired before you hand it in. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi bgochnauer. :D Check all of the heat shields around the catalytic converters. Having a rattle at a particular RPM range is a common symptom of a loose converter heat shield. When the particular RPM range is reached, a "harmonic resonance" can cause a vibration in a loose shield. This is a relatively common problem in all cars. And as mofsteel mentioned, check your exhaust system mounts. Is your Edge still within the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty? If you are persuasive enough, t is even possible to have a loose converter shield covered under the Emissions System Warranties. If not covered, you can usually repair it yourself by tightening the loose shield down with a long "worm-screw" type clamp. Try to leave the shield in place and tighten it, as removing the shield can lead to heat and fire related issues. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 09MKX. :D Congratulations on your new MKX. I do not have the 2009 MKX Owners Manual handy, so I would recommend you do this: Check the "Interior Lighting" and "Message Center" sections of your Owners Manual. See what controls and programmable features are available for the interior lights. There are also a bunch of other programmable features available which you may never know about unless you check the Manual. If you can not get them operational, then check with your Dealer/Salesman. If they can not tell you how to get them working, then you will probably need to make a service appointment. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi clotus. :D Is this a "common problem" with the Edge? No. Is it an" easy fix"? Well, there are a multitude of issues that could cause this type of problem, some are easy fixes, some are not. So there is no way to tell if it is an easy fix until the cause of the problem is diagnosed, and by then it may be too late for you to return it. As far as Carfax is concerned: While it is a helpful tool, it only goes so far. There are an infinite number of things that can slip by Carfax. So a clear Carfax is no guarantee of anything. It is only helpful when it catches things. However, in many cases, if something is missed there is no way for the buyer to know that it was missed or what was missed. Now, my opinion: I would recommend returning the vehicle for a refund. Having it lose power (multiple times) and limp home the first night you drive it is not a good sign. The alternative is to take your chances that the Dealership can fix it properly. And by the time you find out the answer to that question, it will be too late to return it. Let us know the outcome. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

EDITED - Reply removed. I replied to an earlier question from page #1 that had already been answered.

Hi KyEdge. :D Valve stems are a generic item that are not vehicle or even auto-manufacturer specific. There was a widely publicized problem with defective valve stems (sourced from China). I believe it was early last year. While the problem was not Ford specific, Ford was one of many automakers to get a bunch of the defective valve stems. Ford sent out a letter to owners concerning how to inspect them and what to do if an owner had a problem with a cracked valve stem. Check with your Dealer to see if this problem applied to your vehicle. Either way, you should certainly address this with the Dealer who installed the tires. Also, concerning where those two new tires should have been installed, you may want to read here: LINK: Tire Rack or here: LINK: Michelin or here: LINK: BF Goodrich or here: LINK: Discount Tire or any other tire manufacturer website or source of expert tire information. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

HI Phins. :D You can reuse the sensor. However, you will need a new sensor band (the band that attaches the sensor to the wheel). You may be able to get away without the reset tool, since the current sensor is already programmed to the system and may not need resetting. Either way, you would need a tire shop (switching tires on a wheel is certainly not a do-it-yourself job), so they can simply reset the sensor if necessary. However, the tool is very inexpensive and picking one up for yourself would not be a bad investment for future times when you may need to reset the TPMS system. Finally, have you checked with any wheel refinishing/repair companies to see if it can be repaired? While we do not know how badly the wheel is damaged, this can normally be done for quite a bit less than a new wheel, and a reputable company will do an excellent job. You can check with your local Speed Shops and other Automotive suppliers for recommendations. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Van G. :D While it is difficult to say for sure at this point, since 2011 Edge's are not even being produced yet, the likely answer will be no. It will not even fit the dash/center stack of the earlier model Edge. If even possible, trying to make the swap would likely cost more than the money you would save on the 2009/2010 model. There are so many changes in the electronics of the 2011 MyFord system, that compatibility with earlier models will be unlikely. Of course, almost anything is possible if enough time and money are thrown at it, but this would generally be an unrealistic modification. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi waclarke. :D They will fit, as the size/specs are the same. However, I am not sure if the style is exactly the same. It is likely that at least the center caps would have different logos (Ford/Lincoln). If you look online at the Ford and Lincoln websites, or pick up the brochures for each, you will be able to see pictures. Or call a Ford or Lincoln Mercury Dealer and ask the Parts Department. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Carla. :D According to those who have received the "Heater Core letter", the Warranty on the Heater Core has been extended to 6 years/105,000 miles. So if (unfortunately, always a bunch of if's) your particular Edge is covered by the heater core letter, your issue is caused by the heater core defect covered in the letter, your mileage is not over 105,000 miles, your Edge was not a "Salvage Title" used car buy (don't know offhand when/how you purchased), etc etc., then there would be no out-of-pocket expense for you. You may need to call the Ford Customer Satisfaction line to get Ford involved and receive a copy of the "Heater Core letter" sent ot you, if it applies to your Edge. The numbers are in the Warranty Guide brochure you received when you purchased your Edge. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Rick. :D It will not be as easy as adding a harness and plugging things in. Unfortunately, I do not know exactly which components a non-backup assist Edge would be missing. Maybe someone else can jump in with more precise component information. Additionally, you will also not have the proper programming in the SJB or other vehicle management systems. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi strenn. :D Internet diagnosis is difficult at best. Impossible at worst. We can not tell what you are actually smelling, since even you are not sure. And PTU/PTO? Same thing being called different names by different people. So in all honesty, your next step is what your first step should have been when you have a new vehicle that is under Warranty and you feel you have an issue that needs addressing. Make an appointment and take it in for service. Describe your issue to the Service Writer in as much detail as possible: What happens. How it happens. When it happens. Hot or cold. Rainy or dry. Day or night. Fast or slow. Have them send a Tech with you on a test drive and demonstrate the problem. Get the Tech to say that they hear, feel, see or smell the problem. Then let the Service Department diagnose and repair the issue. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi k_m. :D Yes, I understand. However, since your question was not entirely clear (to me at least) and there were two possible answers according to what you were asking, I answered both possibilities. The second paragraph answered your now-clarified question. But now you are giving two different scenarios again. And again, the answer can vary according to which scenario occurs. So...: First scenario...You get a TPMS low pressure warning. You check the tires and the pressures are actually low. Then simply filling the tires to the proper pressure and driving for a short time will eliminate the warning light. Or yes, you can use the reset button. I believe that cycling the ignition off and back on (after filling the tires) will also reset the system. Second scenario...You get a TPMS low pressure warning. You check the tires and pressures are fine. Then the system has some sort of fault that would need addressing. While you can reset the system, that will not get rid of the underlying fault and the TPMS warning will keep reoccurring until the error is corrected. If it does not self-correct, which electronic devices rarely do on a permanent basis, a Dealer visit is probably needed. So the answer varies according to the situation at hand. This information and even more detail is also contained in the Owners Manual. It would be good to give it a quick read, since there are also other TPMS system warnings that can pop up on the display in addition to "low tire pressure". Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi k_m. :D To reprogram the TPMS sensors (when you change wheels/ tires etc.), you need the TPMS sensor reset/programming tool. You can purchase it for as little as $10-$20 on Ebay. If you simply want to erase a low tire pressure warning, you can hit the "Reset" button on the dash. However, until you find the cause of the low pressure warning, the TPMS warning light will keep coming back, so don't forget to check the tire pressures, since that is the reason there is a TPMS system. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 07CRUSH. :D You are welcome. Concerning the 2010's being "banded" also. If that is the case, I apologize for the error. The 2010 Fusion/Milan/MKZ had switched to "valve-type" TPMS sensors with the 2010 model refresh, and I assumed (yes, when we assume...) the 2010 Edge/MKX also had, since they share basic structures. Perhaps, since they are on a different update schedule, the Edge/MKX are switching over with their 2011 refresh (due later this year). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Keby. :D As I mentioned in my earlier reply, any good, name brand automotive leather cleaner is the way to go, if you are patient and use enough elbow grease. No leather cleaner will be a "wipe on-wipe off" type of product. They will take work and elbow grease. I use "Meguiar's Gold Class Leather Cleaner and Conditioner" (a one step product). I also have purchased "Tanner's Preserve Leather Cleaner" and "Tanner's Preserve Leather Conditioner" for heavier clean-up jobs. But believe it or not, I have never needed to use it yet. The Meguiar's has always done the job so far. One word of caution, the leather in our cars has a protective coating. If you use anything abrasive on it (e.g. the "Magic Eraser"), you may/will damage that coating. So while using something abrasive may/will remove contamination/stains/dye transfer, it will also damage that protective coating, making it easier for the leather to become contaminated/stained again, and may eventually permanently damage the leather. Just as corroboration, you can find this type of information on any website concerning automotive leather care. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 07CRUSH. :D No, not according to the information available, and from those who have tried. As baum stated, the sensors on the 2007-2009 Edge/MKX were the "band type". That is a "valve type" sensor, which is now used on the 2010 models. The TPMS system on the earlier models will not recognize the "valve type" sensor. However, according to others, the same TPMS sensor reset tool can be used for both systems (but separately, not with mixed components). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve :D . Unfortunately, you are confusing/combining two different issues. The extended Warranty ("6 years/105,000 miles") is for the Heater Core. That has to do with the inside of the heater core corroding and plugging up, leading to a loss of heat in the HVAC system. The number of defective heater cores is small. The extended Warranty will cover flushing and refilling the coolant system and heater core, or replacing the heater core if flushing will not cure the problem. The "PTU" issue is a trans fluid leak in the "PTU" seal, which is part of the AWD system. There is no antifreeze/coolant in the "PTU". And to date, there has been no Warranty extension on the "PTU". And as an FYI for others, if a person has a FWD Edge/MKX, they have no PTU. The bottom line though is they are two completely different issues. So if what you are smelling is actually antifreeze/coolant, it is not from a leaking PTU. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 95f150. :D As the Owners Maual explains, you get heat through the rear seat floor vents three ways: 1 - Set the system to distribute air through the front windshield defroster and floor vents. 2 - Set the system to distribute air through the floor vents. 3 - Set the system to distribute air through the dash registers and the floor vents. So essentially, any setting that has the front floor vents involved also enables the rear seat floor vents. If yours is not working that way, you may need to visit the Dealer for diagnosis and service. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi butts. :D No. While I will can not speak for every automaker, that is not the case for Ford vehicles. While some of the necessary wiring may be in the existing harnesses for standardization and cost containment measures, the remote start system "brain" and electronics are not. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi k_m. :D Yes, as mentioned previously by others, that seems to be the case for the 5W-20. However, according to what I have read, it does not seem to be the case for the 5W-30 which is often mentioned by Amsoil supporters as a suitable substitute for the Ford recommended 5W-20. Their marketing material is just not written in a clear manner. And they must know that is the case by now, so... Another important factor is this: If you agree that following Ford's OCI recommendations is the correct thing to do, then it makes no sense to pay the added premium/cost of Amsoil (or any other manufacturers so-called extended interval oils).. It simply makes sense to get a regular synthetic blend or full synthetic on sale and change when Ford recommends. In other words, why pay more for so called extended life oils, if you are simply draining it at a regular interval. If someone plans on ignoring Ford and following the advice of those who believe in extended OCI's, then paying the premium for extended OCI oils may make sense. Just realize that Warranty ramifications do exist, no matter what any third party may say otherwise. That is where the decision lies. I will not extend my intervals past the Ford recommendations, so paying a premium for an extended life oil makes no sense for my situation. And in my opinion, that would be the wise choice for anyone who agrees that following Ford's OCI recommendations is the correct path. For those who wish to extend OCI's to some absurd span that jeopardizes their engine and or Warranty coverage, I wish them no ill will and hope luck is on their side. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi k_m. :D I would like to point out a play in words on the Amsoil site. I do not know if it is intentional or not, but it is deceptive. This is what Amsoil states in their "Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSOQT)": APPLICATIONS AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for use in gasoline engines, diesel engines (API CF, ACEA B5) and other applications requiring SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 with the following worldwide specifications: • API SM/CF, SL, SJ … • ILSAC GF-4, 3 … • ACEA A5/B5-04 • GM 4718M, 6094M • Ford WSS-M2C929-A • Honda HTO-06 • Daimler Chrysler MS-6395N • VW 503.00 Now, you will note that it does not state that the oil "meets or exceeds" the specs listed. It merely states that their oil is "...recommended for use...". A nice play on words, but a glaring difference in those phrases. Sure it is "recommended for use". It is "recommended for use" by Amsoil. What would we expect them to say? "Meets or exceeds" has been the accepted terminology for decades. So it is conspicuous to me when it is missing from an oils description. Now, does it say "meets or exceeds" on the oil bottles themselves? I don't have an Amsoil oil bottle available so I can not say definitively. But it certainly does not state it in some of the particular oil descriptions (as described above). If I missed something, someone please post a link (and for all the oils that have been discussed, not just a few). Personally, I don't care what brand oil anyone uses, as long as it meets the Ford specs and the oil is changed following Ford's OCI guidelines (currently 6 months/7,500 miles Normal Service and 6 months/5,000 miles Severe Service). In this way, you know your Warranty rights are protected. To do otherwise, on the advice of third parties who may or may not have a vested interest in what you purchase is foolish (in my opinion). Concerning oils and what to use. This is my educated opinion. The people who designed, engineered and manufactured our cars make it very easy. They perform millions of miles of testing to develop and publish exacting specifications (WSS-M2C929-A) that tell us the minimum standards that must be met by the oil we use. It is listed right in the Owners Manual, Maintenance Schedules and Warranty Guides of the vehicles we buy. They tell us what the maximum oil change interval should be (6 months/7,500 or 5,000 miles). And it is listed right there for all of us to see. They make it very easy for all of us. Then we decide to make it more difficult for ourselves by trying to second guess the experts who designed, engineered and manufactured our vehicles. And we take the word of third parties who are trying to tell us they know better and want to sell us their product. To me it seem silly. As long as the oil we use "meets or exceeds" the Ford spec, we can't go wrong. Not an oil that someone "recommends for", but "meets or exceeds". Now if Amsoil (or any oil manufacturers product) meets those guidelines (with no double-talk and word play) and someone would like to use it, go ahead. If it does not, then using it would be foolish considering the Warranty ramifications. And no matter what anyone states, if we extend our oil change interval past the Ford stipulated maximums and have an engine failure that can even remotely be attributed to those lack of oil changes, Ford certainly can deny the Warranty claim. The Magnuson-Moss Act gives absolutely no protection against that type of lack of maintenance. This has been repeatedly decided in arbitration and court cases over the years. Again, to say otherwise is simply deceptive advertising and marketing word-play. Yes, among many things the Magnuson-MossAct protects us against being forced to use Motorcraft or any specific brand of oil. But it does not prohibit Ford from requiring minimum maintenance (in this case oil change intervals), that if not followed, can lead to Warranty claim denials. In fact, it protects a manufacturers right to require minimum maintenance. The motives of anyone who claims otherwise should be immediately suspect, in my opinion. Bottom line is we should use an oil that "meets or exceeds" the minimum manufacturers specs. Now, that can be conventional, semi-synthetic or synthetic. Me, I would at least use a semi-synthetic (such as the Motorcraft factory fill or another name brand) or upgrade to a full synthetic. If upgrading to a full synthetic will give you added peace of mind, then you should certainly do so. Other than that, use a major brand name. And do not use "extended OCI's", no matter what anyone is trying to sell you. 6 months/7,500 or 5,000 miles. At least while you re under Warranty. Once you are off Warranty (Powertrain is 5 years/60,000 miles Ford/Mercury, 6 years/72,000 miles Lincoln), we are all free to do as we please. For what it is worth, that is my opinion, based on the facts. And for those who want to debate the facts, you can argue with Ford. I mean no disrespect to anyone, but when Ford changes their guidelines, I will change my advice. But not before, because I do not think I am smarter than, or know more about designing, engineering and manufacturing cars, than the people who designed, engineered and manufactured mine. And I do not believe that any third parties on the Internet do either. Especially when they may have a monetary interest in the outcome of the debate. One last thing. This is not a pointed attack against Amsoil. Amsoil just always seems to be the product most often mentioned in these sorts or discussions, especially in this thread. This advice goes for any oil manufacturers product. It is simple, it should clearly state in every product description (not "here and there" throughout a website), that the product "meets or exceeds" the specifications required. And no word-games. Honesty does not need word-games. Hope this information helps, at least a little k_m. And sorry for the long reply. :stats: Good luck. :beerchug: