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Hi lovemyedge. :D My previous replies and questions still stand. It serves an aerodynamic function. Simple explanation: It decreases airflow beneath the vehicle, which reduces drag and lift, thus increasing fuel mileage at mid to highway speeds. Again, without knowing why you want to remove it, the best advice is to leave it alone. If you still want/need to remove it, as mentioned previously you simply need to remove whatever type fasteners are attaching it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Oooops. Double post.

Hi rad. :D Sorry it did not work. Well, we gave it a shot. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D Then I am fresh out of ideas for rad48. If he does not want the dash lights to come on with the dome lights (as most cars do anyway) then it looks like the choices are to pay "$118 to flip a friggin light switch", check with other Dealerships for a better price offer, live with it as is, or hope someone else will come up with another workable idea. Let us know how you make out, rad. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Tribby. :D I was not and am not trying to argue with anyone. I was simply trying to avoid unnecessary arguments. if possible. I do wonder why you quoted my previous post and the word "reflect" when you stated "It is not MacLeod who needs to "reflect" on his behavior no matter how new he is to the forum." I do need to point out that I never stated that MacLeod needed to "reflect" on his behavior, or anything else. The word "blunt' (which you also quoted) I used in reference to akirby. The word "reflect" I never used in reference to MacLeod or anyone else, so I am curious as to why it was used while quoting my previous reply. And I took no sides. Just wanted to make that clear. Again, I was only trying to defuse the situation. I can see that did not work, so I will simply wish good luck to everyone and step out of the debate. :beerchug:

Hi MacLeod. :D Only trying to help shed some light on your concerns/questions/comments, and also avoid unnecessary probelms on the forum. Also, once you are around longer you will realize that akirby is not a troll. Sometimes a bit blunt in his replies :poke: , but a helpful member on the forums nevertheless. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi rad. :D Through the 2008 (and possibly 2009) models, this is the procedure listed in the Owners Manual to enable/disable the Perimeter Lighting/Illuminated Entry feature: "Deactivating/activating perimeter lamps illuminated entry You may enable/disable this feature by having your vehicle serviced by your authorized dealer. You may also perform the following power door lock sequence to enable/disable the perimeter lamps feature. Note: Before starting, ensure the ignition is in the 1 (LOCK) position and all vehicle doors are closed. You must complete Steps 1–5 within 30 seconds or the procedure will have to be repeated. If the procedure needs to be repeated, wait a minimum of 30 seconds before beginning again. 1. Place the key in the ignition and turn the ignition to the 3 (RUN) position. 2. Press the power door unlock control on the door panel three times. 3. Turn the ignition from the 3 (RUN) position to the 1 (LOCK) position. 4. Press the power door unlock control on the door panel three times. 5. Turn the ignition back to the 3 (RUN) position. The horn will chirp one time to confirm programming mode has been entered and is active. 6. Press the power door unlock control twice within 5 seconds. Note: The horn will chirp once to indicate the perimeter lighting feature has been deactivated. The horn will chirp once and honk once (one short and one long) to indicate the perimeter lighting feature has been activated. 7. Turn the ignition to the 1 (LOCK) position to exit the procedure. Note: The horn will chirp once to confirm the procedure is complete." Perhaps they neglected to put it in the 2010 Manual for one reason or another. I won't waste time guessing at the answer to that question. Whatever the story, give the procedure a try on your vehicle. If it works, great. If it does not, you can "share this story with future potential Ford customers" to your hearts content. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MacLeod. :D Before this becomes any more personal, I think the point akirby is making is that it is not Ford's fault that Walmart (or any other seller) does not yet have the FL500S filter on their shelves. Ford is not "holding back" any part or component. Ford will sell Walmart (or anyone else) a million FL500S's (exaggerated for effect of course) if Walmart will order them. Walmart has simply not orderd them yet, and Ford can not force them to. It is simply a case of Walmart (and others) having not caught up to the spec change, so they have not ordered the new filter for their shelves. The retailer (i.e. Walmart) decides what they will sell, and there is not much Ford (or any automaker) can do to force them to do otherwise. Bottom line is that no party is effectively at fault here. And you and akriby are simply looking at the situation from two different viewpoints. You want to be able to purchase your proper oil filter cheaper and akirby is providing information. No harm, no foul. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi lovemy edge. :D Are you describing the lower edges of the front airdam? If you are, here is my advice: The components comprising the lower end of the front airdam are also there for aerodynamic purposes. To explain it simply, Ford (and other automakers) do not install "useless parts". If they could save 10 cents per vehicle by eliminating a "useless part", they would. I guess it would help if we knew what you are trying to achieve by removing it? Is it in the way of some other modification you want to perform? Or are you just removing it because you think it is "useless" and feel like removing it? My recommendation would be to leave it alone, as it is there for a reason/serves a function. However, if you are dead set on removing it, then simply remove what ever fasteners are holding it on. If it is fastened with bolts or screws, unscrew them. If it is fastened with rivets, drill them out. If it is held on with plastic push-pin type fasteners, pick up a trim removal tool at your local auto parts store to remove them (about $8-$10, tops). But again, it would be best to leave it alone. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi lovemyedge. :D Not exactly sure which "bottom piece" you are describing. If you are referring to the "splash shield", then it is not useless and should not be permanently removed. Its purpose is both aerodynamic and for protection of components in that area from water and other debris ((i.e. the foglight housings and other components in the lower engine compartment). If you are only removing it temporarily to gain access to the foglights or another area, then you simply remove the bolts/fasteners holding it on. But be sure to reinstall it. If you are referring to some other "piece" then please try to provide more detail or a picture. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi new2ford2. :D Just wanted to reply so you don't think you are being ignored. If you check, you will see that the OP (esckjc) has not been back since the last post on December 2. So there is a good chance you will not get any answer. As often happens on these forums, many people come on for a solution to their specific issue, then never come back again. So unfortunately, we never learn if the problem was solved, and more important for helping others, what the solution may have been. Your best course of action would be to keep the Dealer Service Department involved. And if the problem continues, read your Warranty Guide and follow the instructions to get Ford Customer Relations directly involved in the process. According to how good your Dealers Service Department is, if you do not follow through, they may not either. So you need to be proactive in the process. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Tribby. :D The exact wording of the Owners Manual (copied and pasted from the 2008 version) states: To protect your engine’s warranty use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 or an equivalent SAE 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A. SAE 5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle’s engine. To me, that means exactly what it says. To protect the engine Warranty, use a 5W-20 which meets the WSS-M2C930-A spec. To me that means 5W-20 only. Not 0W-20. Not 5W-30, etc etc.. Now, others may have different opinions, even others who's opinion I truly respect concerning many other subjects and things in general. However, the Owners Manual (and Warranty agreement) is the final word, at least as far as I am concerned. And as far as Ford is concerned, that wording clearly leaves open the possibility of a Warranty claims denial if another viscosity oil is used. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ar&wr. :D You do not mention if you have an Edge or an MKX (difference in Warranty length). There are at least several possibilities: switches, connectors. wiring etc.. Could be a simple switch that costs $20-$30. If you are still under the New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty, it will be diagnosed and repaired under Warranty. If not, of course it will be diagnosed and repaired but you will likely have to pay for it. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi brents1. :D A properly working system would have illuminated radio buttons. So if turning up the dash lights (as flyerjmr recommended) does not work, then there is a problem with the radio or wiring. Could it be related? Almost anything is possible. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Unsure. :D According to JD Powers and other recognized experts on automotive quality, Ford's quality is now at least the equal of Honda, Toyota and the other imports. Concerning the "PTU' problem: Every vehicle has a certain percentage of defects. The vast majority of AWD Edge's and MKX's do not have PTU problems. Concerning Dealer reliability: By Federal law, Dealerships for all automakers are independent franchises. So like all automakers, Dealer reliability depends on the individual attitude of the Dealership. Ask others for recommendations as to the best Ford Dealer Service Departments in your area.. And check out the Service Department before you buy. People often make the mistake of thinking that the relationship with the Salesperson is the most important aspect. Well, once you purchase, you will usually not deal with the Salesperson again until you purchase another new vehicle (if they are even still there). But you will see the Service Personnel for scheduled maintenance for the life of your vehicle, so they are the important people to get to know. In my opinion (and the opinion of automotive quality experts) you can be fairly assured that the experience of owning a Ford will be at least as worry free as any other vehicle, foreign or domestic. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi smokey. :D "OP" just means "Original Poster", i.e. the person who first posts a question or statement on an Internet forum. Or in this case, you. It is not an insult. :beerchug: Good luck.

Hi Radmanna. :D Legally, you can remove them if you like. The only legal ramifications would be if you had rear seat passengers with the headrests removed and you were involved in an accident, Obviously they could then sue you for injuries caused by the removal. But if you reinstall them when you have rear seat passengers that would not be a concern. They are easy to remove and easy to reinstall. Personally I would leave them in, as in reality, unless the driver is very short they do not block much other than interior view (more of an optical illusion than anything else), but the decision is up to you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Filion. :D The "New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty" for the Edge is 3 years/36,000 miles from the original "In Service Date". The "In Service Date" is the date the first owner purchased the vehicle. So if you are over 36,000 miles, the New Car Warranty is expired. If you are under 36,000 miles, then your Bumper to Bumper Warranty coverage depends on when your "In Service Date" was. So if the original "In Service Date" was after today's date in 2007, and you have less than 36,000 miles, you may still have some Warranty coverage left. To find your "In Service Date": Unless another forum member here can run your VIN, you will need to check with your local Ford Dealers Service Department to find out. Next: Even if you still have some New Car Warranty Coverage left, whether the wheels would be covered would depend on what the Dealer/Ford determines may have caused he damage. Obviously, road hazard damage, wear and tear nicks, chips etc. would not be covered. So in the end, your best course of action would be a trip to the Dealership. Also, as an FYI, the Edge also has a 5 year/50,000 mile Powertrain Warranty. You may want to read your Owners Manual, Warranty Guide and Scheduled Maintenance Guide to become familiar with your vehicle, Warranty coverages and maintenance requirements. If you did not get those when you purchased, you can download PDF versions here: LINK: Ford Owner Guides Fill in the drop down boxes and click "submit". Then click on the Owner Guide you want to download. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MOFSTEEL. :D I am proceeding under the assumption that the OP is serious, new to car buying and learned late that they made a bad deal. Hope they are serious so that we are not just wasting our time. Wouldn't that be a bitch. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi smokey. :D First, please realize that I am not trying to make you feel worse, but you need to understand the realities of the situation. So that being said, I will try to answer what I can, and give educated advice on the rest. Concerning past Incentives and Rebates, I can't answer for the following reasons: First of all, besides varying by date, Incentives and Rebates also vary by region/ZIP Code, so what I may have paid in my area of NJ on 10/2007 would have no validity for you and where you live. In fact, someone in the next town over from you may get different Incentives than you did on 10/2007. To receive any sort of accurate information concerning Ford Corporate Incentives/Rebates, you would likely need to contact Ford. Concerning "specials advertised by Mike Dorian Ford in Michigan"? You would need to contact the Dealership or your Sales Contract. It is doubtful anyone in the rest of the country (or even anyone in your area of Michigan) would know that information from 2 1/2 years ago. And any Dealer Incentives would likely not have been applicable to what the Dealer "claims" was an X-Plan sale anyway. Concerning the "X-Plan Price you paid", there are several issues you need to understand: 1) "X-Plan Price" is not "Employee Pricing". Employee Pricing is "A-Plan"". So while you stated in your first post that you thought you received "Employee Pricing", unfortunately that information was incorrect. Makes the deal that much worse 2) While you may "think" you received the "X-Plan Price", it certainly was not an "X-Plan Purchase" through Ford, since again, Demo vehicles are not eligible for X-Plan sales, no exceptions. Ford makes the Plan rules, not the Dealer, so no matter what the Dealer told you, it could not have been an actual X-Plan sale through Ford. 3) Even if the Dealer sold you the car at the "X-Plan Price" (which still is not necessarily the same as selling it on the X-Plan), you overpaid for a used vehicle. Paying X-Plan on a used vehicle with over 5,000 miles on it is still a bad deal. The price should have been lower. And as mentioned in my previous reply, even 'A-Plan" (Employee Pricing and lower than X-Plan) would have been overpaying for a 5,000 mile Demo. Concerning "if there is any way to recover the monies I lost on this car?", I can tell you this: 1) Your best bet would be to ask for legal advice from an Attorney, not a bunch on strangers on the Internet. 2) This much is certain concerning written contracts vs. verbal agreements: Legally speaking, a written contract can not be modified by any "verbal contracts" or verbal agreements/statements. Bottom line is it does not matter what was agreed to verbally, a written contract is the accepted final agreement. And lets face it, the Salesman/Dealer will swear they did not tell you what you and your boyfriend heard, and it will be a he said/she said situation In that cased again, the written contract wins. While I do not necessarily expect you to take my recommendations at face value, this incident occurred 2 1/2 years ago. It is a done deal and all you can do is use it as a learning experience. Unless you can prove fraud (which is extremely difficult to do), this is a losing battle. A written contract is the final word. Legally, what you sign is what you agreed to. The bottom line is that unless you can prove fraud in your written contract (i.e. they claimed it was "new" instead of a "Demo" or some other fraudulent statement), you need to use this as a learning experience on how not to handle a purchase in the future. You made a mistake and trusted the word of someone who was trying to sell you something. Don't waste time beating yourself up over it, as you are not the first, and you will not be the last. But there is likely nothing that can be done. Now, have I covered every possible legal contingency in this Internet reply? Of course not. That is why I will highly recommend this final piece of advice: To satisfy your own curiosity, I would advise you contact an Attorney in your area for verification. Internet strangers (including me) are not the best source of legal advice. Sorry I could not offer better news. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ThinLine. :D Not only are there 4 different ESP Plans (in the U.S.) which begin with basic coverage all the way up to warrantying most vehicle components. There are also various time and mileage limits. Add to that the fact that the price of Ford ESP Plans are negotiable, just like the price of a new car, and there is no sense asking what others may have paid. Your best bet is to go to the following Ford website LINK: Ford ESP and read through the information describing the various Plans. Then use the website tools to find the Ford MSRP price of the Plans you may be interested in. In addition, Google "Ford ESP Plans" and check out the various online sellers of Ford ESP Plans. They are all Ford dealers who sell the Plan online. There you will find your best prices. Armed with that information, you can then go to your Dealer (or any local Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealer) and see if they will match your best online price. If they will, great. If they won't then you can purchase online or take your local Dealers best offer. All up to you. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D Just to avoid any confusion: The Powertrain Warranty for Ford and Mercury vehicles is 5 years/60,000 miles. For Lincoln vehicles it is 6 years/70,000 miles. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gslice. :D As 07Crush stated, our cars have a 10 minute "accessory delay" feature. This feature allows the radio, power windows etc, to be operated for 10 minutes (or until a door is opened) after the key has been turned to the "off" position, That is most likely the cause of your "issue". If it is not the accessory delay, then there is a deeper issue, but it would be difficult to diagnose that over the Internet, since this was a simple "plug-n-play" swap, so no wires were cut/spliced. Check to see if it is actually the "accessory delay" you are experiencing (almost certainly is), and let us know. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi rfstar. :D Short answer: No, Not in any realistic manner. Longer answer: The power lift-gate release on the IKT/Flip Key and the remote start system obviously operate at different frequencies. So unless you know how to reprogram the IKT (or "Flip Key") remote to adapt the correct frequency (or know someone who can), it is not a viable modification. If someone can perform that reprogramming, then it can be done. Keep in mind that even if someone can do that reprogramming, the range of the IKT's (or "FlipKeys") is generally far less than remote starter system controls. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi neisy. :D The Edge and MKX are manufactured on the same assembly line, so odds are yes, it should be there. Only way to find out for sure is to check. Let us know. Good luck. :beerchug: