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Hi akirby. :D No, no, no. The name of the Company is KaleCo Auto, not "Hale". If you accidentally send people to the wrong supplier, how do you ever expect them to be able to get their cross drilled accessories? Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Good to see you again! :beerchug:

Hi BP. :D They are designed that way to meet rear impact standards, as dictated by Federal Automotive Crash Guidelines. The idea is to minimize backwards motion of the head and neck in a rear end collision (and thus help prevent/minimize whiplash injuries). People may as well get used to them, as that is the way cars will be from now on. The other option is active head restraints, which move forward in a rear end crash. But right now, that technology is seen mostly in higher end autos, and is considered too costly for mid priced vehicles. Some people have stated that they turned them around, or switched them out for other styles that fit. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi chewydawg. :D No, all those things you mention (Blinker Fluid, the wiper blade sharpener, the Kuhneutson Valve and the Left Handed Metric Screwdriver, Santa and the Easter Bunny) are real. Well, except for Google. Google is a vast left and right wing conspiracy. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi tolsoks. :D 6"1" here and no problems. While I know people are built differently, some having longer legs, some having longer torsos, I can truly say that this is the first time I can recall hearing that complaint. A possible solution: The power seat bottom tilts fore and aft. You need to tilt the forward edge of the seat up higher to give your thighs more support. Maybe even also raise the seat up off the floor a tad. If you have the seat all the way down, and the seat bottom tilted forward, your thighs will have no support. So try raising the seat a bit, and tilting the bottom cushion back a bit. Give it a shot. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Cindy. :D I can only speak for where I live, and that is not the case. We only have oxygenated fuel in the winter months. No ethanol in the spring/summer. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jen. :D Yes, the "cross drilled brake lines" are a joke. "Cross drilled brake lines" would be the equivalent (actually, much worse) of drilling holes in your garden hose. At least holes in a garden hose won't kill you (and others). While I am sure that web site does sell legitimate brake lines, the text of that particular ad is a joke. They are mocking the fad of installing "cross drilled brake rotors" on street cars. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi sanche. :D Glad you were able to find the cause of your moon roof rattle, and save yourself a special trip to the Dealer for a fix. However, just a word of caution: You had been driving for 7,200 miles before the rattle began (looks like the foam moved out of place, possibly due to the loose trim). What you have done is temporarily fix it, as it will likely eventually move out of place again. Inanimate objects do not heal themselves, so with the loose trim piece it will only get worse over time again. And over time, it may progress (or regress) to the point that you can not fix it yourself. Eventually, next time you have your car to the Dealer for regular service, I would advise that you have the roof looked at and permanently fixed. Better to have it taken care of permanently. Also, by doing this the problem will be noted in your service records. Concerning the "memory seats". That is a tougher one. Just thinking out loud here: Is it possible that you may accidentally hit one of the buttons while getting out of the car? Have you programmed either remote keyfob to be recognized and set the seat position when pressed? I know these two ideas are not the likely causes, but again, just thinking out loud. Other than those types of scenarios, the only other valid possibility I can put forth would be an electronic glitch, which unfortunately would likely require an eventual Dealer visit. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Cindy. :D Yes. Conventional wisdom is that the Duratec 3.5L engine can take up 5,000 miles (or more) to fully break-in. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi sanche. :D Since there are various causes for a rattle such as this (as you stated, some already known and covered under TSB's), I would recommend bringing it in for service. Better to so do that than possibly exacerbate the problem by toying with it yourself. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi fbc1967. :D Yes, an 18" wheel/tire package will easily fit the Edge. You can even go to a 17" package, but personally I would stick with the 18" package. The Tire Rack has a nice package with the Bridgestone Blizzak, which is a very highly rated winter tire. In the 18" size, they also list the Bridgestone Winter Dueler and the Pirelli Scorpion Ice and Snow. While there are 20" snow tires available in the proper size for the MKX/Edge, they are way beyond the performance level (and therefore also the price level) of anything you would ever need to install on an MKX/Edge (my personal opinion, of course). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi scootertoo21. :D Yes, it is a joke. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi tolsoks. :D Let's start of by letting you know that the "Factory Invoice Price" of that Edge is $32,141. Next, the 0%/60 month APR Incentive is a local Incentive and can be combined with an available $2,000 Retail Customer Cash incentive. Not sure why the Dealer told you that there is only $1,800 of Incentive money. Not knowing your Sales Tax rate in Illinois, or exactly how much in extra Dealer added Fees and Charges are tacked on, I would take an educated guess and say that you should be able to get the price down at least $500 from that $31,800 figure.. $200 of that should come immediately from the discrepancy between the $1,800 Incentive total you were "told" by the Dealer is available, and the actual amount of $2,000 Retail Customer Cash. And as far as what Black Ice stated about Incentive amounts: Incentives and Rebates vary (sometimes by quite a bit) between different regions. Due to the great variations in Incentive offers, the price which one individual receives in a particular region can not be compared to the price in another region. For example, Black Ice states that the Incentives in his area are $3,500 to $4,500 (do not know where he is, so I can not verify that), and he thinks that "$2750 in rebates were available from Ford alone". Well, in reality most Incentives are programs created by Ford, not the Dealer themselves. There are rare exceptions, like "Customer Appreciation Incentives", etc, but even most of those Incentive Programs are actually backed by Ford, not the Dealer. I do not mean any disrespect in singling Black Ice's statements out, I only use them to show that Incentives are highly region dependent, and comparing different regions will only confuse people. Incentives in my area are currently $3,000 Cash and the 0%/60 month APR Rate. But, this is no help to you. Your area only has $2,000 Retail Customer Cash. Talk to your Dealer, find out why you are only getting $1,800 Incentive Cash, and do some more negotiating. Let us know how you make out, and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gooch06. :D Yes it can be painted. Just go to a body shop that you trust and have them give you an estimate. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MHD. :D What CreamEDGE stated above is correct. The headlights on the Edge and MKX are two completely different shapes and sizes. Therefore, you would need to replace every piece that mates up to the headlights and then some. By the time you were done, you would have an MKX from the windshield forward, and an Edge from the windshield back. Or, you would need to cut, fill and fabricate your own front end pieces to fit the headlight in properly. So it is not a viable modification. Of course, anything is possible if you want to throw enough money at it, but as far as a reasonable swap, the answer is no. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi tolsoks. :D If you want a quick, inaccurate answer using minimal information, I would say that given the state of the economy, poor car sales, current Incentive and Rebate offers, Dealers wiling to negotiate to get hard to come by sales, etc etc, you "should" be able to do better. But without more information, it is hard to say for sure. Having said that, if you would like a more accurate answer to your question, this is some of the additional information we would need: 1 - Does that "OTD" (Out the Door) price include any Incentive or Rebate Cash? If yes, how much? 2 - Unfortunately, not everyone's idea of "Out the Door" is the same. Does that OTD price include all Sales Taxes, Title and Registration, Dealer added Fees and Charges, etc. etc.? In other words, every last penny you will need to pay to drive that car "out the door". 3 - What is the APR Rate and duration of your loan (if you have one)? Is this vehicle currently In-Stock at a Dealership? If it is, we can better assist you if you post the name and ZIP Code of the Dealership, along with the VIN. Then we can look up the actual Factory Invoice price and be sure all figures are correct. Post back with the answers and information requested and we can give you accurate answers. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jankul. :D I am assuming when you say "updating" you are referring to updated maps, POI's etc? The Navigation system is DVD based. So yes, when a new DVD is released containing updated maps, POI's etc, you will have to pay for it (if you want it). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D In addition to the good site which "wehavean08edge" listed above, you can also access pricing and purchase Ford ESP Plans here: LINK: Ford ESP Plans. It is the actual Ford Motor Company Site for ESP Plan purchases (as opposed to an individual Dealer site). Click on the blue "Ford Extended Service" banner at the top of the page (towards the middle). I am not vouching for pricing, as I assume the pricing on this Ford site will be close to MSRP. I am just giving everyone another option to compare pricing. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D I am certainly no expert on Canadian/U.S. tax and importation laws, so this is a question for anyone who truly knows the answer (not guesses or speculation): If a Canadian resident was to purchase a vehicle in the U.S., don't they have to pay import duties and taxes (i.e. VAT) when they register it in Canada that would eat up any savings they may have realized from a U.S purchase? Unless a Canadian citizen also has a legal U.S. address, the vehicle would still need to be Canadian registered? I would think that it would not be that easy to "beat the system". Again, I am not an expert in this field, so am just wondering. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gradywhite. :D Did you mean to ask how to find the day it was built? Because as you state in your next post, you already know what the month was by looking at your door jamb build sticker. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gradywhite. :D The 9th digit is not the build month. It is a "check digit", used to check "VIN accuracy". Your VIN and door sticker correlation are a simple coincidence. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gradywhite. :D Akirby is correct, the 9th digit in the VIN is simply a "check digit". You can check VIN's here: LINK: Ford VIN Decoder and here LINK: VIN Checks Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi cdperlov. :D I went to the Ford website to take a look at the back seat pictures, so I could try to get a better idea of the problem you are describing. In looking at those pictures, I truly believe that the car seat can be safely installed in the middle position. While it is good that you were cautious, I think there is no reason it can not be installed there. Using the LATCH System strap/straps, a properly tightened seat installed in that middle position should still be solid as a rock. I am curious, does the Edge Owners Manual address the question of child seat installation in the middle position? EDIT - I took a look at the Edge Owners Manual. There are LATCH System anchors and top tether anchors for the center rear position. There are specific instructions in the Owners Manual concerning what type of child seats can/can not be installed in that center position. Take a look at your Manual and see if your seat is one of them. However, I would not expect you to simply take the word of a stranger (me) on the Internet concerning this situation, so I would recommend the following: Many (if not most) Police Departments offer instruction on how to safely install child car seats. They usually have at least one officer who has taken a certification course in child car seat installation. Call you local Police Department and inquire as to what you need to do to register for an appointment to have your seat installed. When you take the vehicle in, you can express your concerns about the middle position. If your local Police Department does not offer the service, give your State Police Department a call. You can also check with your towns Public Safety Department. I am hopeful that at least one of them would offer the service. But again, in my opinion you should have no problem and no worries if you were to install the seat in the middle position. And if you were wondering, yes I have installed several car seats in the last few (7) years. I am always called on to properly read the directions and install seats for my nieces and nephews (sisters twins, brother-in-laws daughter and sister-in-laws son). Starting with rear facing and moving on to front facing I am at 8 different seats and counting as they have grown. And that is just the number of different seats. Actual multiple re-installations of the same seats due to switching them back and forth between different cars probably has me at 20 installations all together. Isn't family great!? Give your Police Department a call and see if they can help you. If none of these options work, you can always try what gradywhite suggested. And this last part is just my opinion (as an FYI): If the center position can not be used "as is", I think gradywhite had a great idea. However, if it were me I think I would feel safer having my child in a secure outboard position as opposed to the center position with a jury rigged support system (no matter how well constructed it may be). Again, this part is just my opinion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi katiesdaddy. :D It has happened. Not a common problem, but it has occurred. Your best bet is to make an appointment for service and have it replaced. To avoid the dreaded "could not replicate the problem" non fix, be sure to bring your MKX in when the tail light has condensation in it. It will be a Warranty covered fix. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Matt. :D Thanks for the explanation. I did understand that your problem was a Sensor fault (not a low pressure warning). In this case, I was only replying to answer scootertoo21's question concerning how the TPMS system operates (and he was replying to carbonedge's reply/questions). We kind of had a bit of subject drift as the replies moved along. Hope they get you repaired ASAP. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi scootertoo. :D Well, not really. Without getting into too much explanation and giving myself a headache, the system measures all four tires. However, when the TPMS warning light comes on, it can not/does not tell you which tire or how many. So in other words, when the warning light comes on, it means at least one tire is low, but is not limited to one tire. Therefore. you can have two, three or four low tires. So, if the warning light comes on, it is only common sense that we need to check all four. If you check one and fill it, but have another one that is low, the System will still register a low tire. Fill only the second tire when a third is low, same deal, and so on. Also, it does not use the anti-lock. It uses the sensors that are installed inside the 4 tires/wheels. Hope this explanation was not too confusing. Good luck. :beerchug: