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Hi er65nsunny. :D It seems you accidentally double posted your question, so see the other post where some of us have already replied. You might want to edit this one closed so that you do not have to shuttle back and forth between two posts. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi er65nsunny. :D As Lex stated, the auto dimming left side rear view mirror does not seem to be an Edge feature on the 2008 model. They are powered standard and heated "if equipped". No self dimming feature, standard or optional. Only the inside rear view mirror is auto-dimming. If you check your Edge Owners Manual, you can verify this information. While the Edge Owners Manual makes absolutely no mention at all of the drivers side mirror being auto-dimming equipped (standard or optional), the MKX Owners Manual specifically states that is is a standard feature. The workshop manual mentions the auto dimming because it is an MKX feature, and they share the same Manual. Even if you were to run power to your mirror, it would not work with your current setup. Your Edge exterior mirror is not electrochromic (auto-dimming). You would need to purchase and install the electrochromic mirror. If you wished, you could probably purchase the MKX mirror, install it and rewire it electrically and to the sensors. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi IZZYAZ. :D Personally, I would go with the recommendations of an expert source like The Tire Rack, Discount Tire, etc, before taking the advice of us Internet mooks (including myself). Only you know what type of driving you do, how much snow, rain etc you drive in, and what your tastes are in a tire. In an Internet poll, you will get some very good advice and some very bad advice. I always like to remind people that over the Internet we may be dealing with a very intelligent caring individual, or someone wearing a tin foil hat, living and hiding out from the aliens and CIA in their parents basement. What are your priorities in a tire? Ride Comfort? Handling? Road noise? Tread life? Fuel mileage? Of course, it will be a balance of all of the above, but only you know what your priorities are. As you probably found out on the Tire Rack site, you can use their tools to narrow down your selection to your specific tastes. Having said all of that, I tend to favor Goodyear, Michelin and BF Goodrich, in no particular order. I have had the best luck with those brands over the years. In the end, we have to consult the experts for the best advice, so I usually advise skipping the middlemen and going straight to the experts. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug: PS - Hi IZZYAZ. I have added this PS after I saw that akirby replied below. Just wanted to let you know that akirby certainly has a place of his own, and has never been known to wear a tinfoil hat! :grouphug:

Hi compgburg. :D Usually one of the following methods will work: First, if there is one of those Dealer advertising plates attached to the bracket, unscrew/unbolt it. Once you do that, you should be able to see what type of fasteners are holding the bracket to your bumper. If they are screws or bolts, simply unscrew/unbolt them and the bracket will come right off. Sometimes, the bracket is riveted on. If that is the case, you can use a small drill bit to drill out the middle of the rivet. This will loosen or break the rivet and release the bracket. Or, some people prefer to use a "Dremel" type tool to cut off/grind down the head of the rivet, releasing the bracket. I prefer the drill method, but you should use whichever method you are comfortable with. Of course, according to how may fasteners the Dealer used (it is usually two) you will be left with two or more holes in your bumper cover . You can then purchase either push-pin type fasteners to fill and cover the holes, or screw caps. Pick up a small tube of touch-up paint from your Ford Dealer and paint the push-pins or screw caps to match your car, and your bumper will look great. If you use push-pins, just paint them and insert them into the holes. If you use screw caps, paint them and install them over screws that you insert in the holes. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gradywhite and bobbyz95. :D Okay, my bad. I assumed the Edge cup holder inserts were similar to the ones I have in my MKZ (which are the type I described above "2 inch high rubber cups"). Those flat inserts would seem to simply serve a main function of minimizing rattles from cans and bottles placed in the cupholders. I will revise my previous reply to remove the incorrect information I posted. Like they always say, "When you assume, you make an...out of you (u) and me". Sorry for the misinformation. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ab. :D With all due respect to anyone who has posted otherwise, there is no volume adjustment on the Reverse Sensing System. We can not make the beep louder. And it does not adjust according to radio volume. As you correctly stated, the Owners Manual explains the system quite clearly. The radio volume is reduced to a predetermined level when the Reverse Sensing System is activated. Just a general observation/opinion of mine. I turn down the volume of my radio when backing up, since I consider backing up without being able to hear sort of foolish. I would prefer to be able to hear someone yell, or a horn honk if the need arises. Again, this is just my opinion. Anyone who prefers not being able to hear these things (and other warnings) is certainly free to back up as they like and with their radio volume as high as they want. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gradywhite. :D EDITED - bobbyz95 posted pictures in his post below. They simply make clean up easier. They also probably provide a bit of cushioning/rattle prevention/sound insulation, so cans/bottles etc make less noise while driving. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dave-m. :D Random failure. The luck of the draw, etc etc. Probably the 100 Edges that came off the line before yours did not have a wheel bearing failure. And the 100 that came off the line after yours did not have wheel bearing failure. These things happen. Best of luck in the future. :beerchug:

Hi Cindy. :D Here is how to find out if you have the elusive "foam pieces" (they are actually "screw covers"): You know the place where you put your fingers to grab the door and pull it closed when you are inside the car (i.e. the "door pull")? Well, look down into that rectangular shaped "door pull" hole. Can you see the screw that is in the bottom of that door pull? If you can not see any screw at the bottom of that door pull, your screw covers are there. Now, look in the other three doors. Can you see the screw that is down in those other three "door pulls"? Again, if you can not see the head of a screw in the bottom of those door pull areas, the "foam pieces" are already there. The "foam pieces" simply sit in the bottom of that rectangular hole and cover the screw heads. They are just screw covers, and are simply there for aesthetic purposes. So if you can not see the screws, you are all set. If you can see the screws, you are missing the "foam pieces" (screw covers). You then need to ask your Dealer to order the missing screw covers ("foam pieces"). Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Lex and I were both answering your question at the same time. :stats: Sorry for the somewhat repetitive post.

Hi Cindy. :D The Manual may not precisely explain how to adjust them. If I recall correctly, the Manual does explain how to access the fog light housings to change the bulbs (remove splash shield, etc.). What you will need to do is loosen the attachment fasteners and manually adjust the light housing to aim it. It sort of becomes an exercise in common sense and basic mechanical aptitude. However, it is likely that the fog lights are already correctly aimed, therefore it would be best to leave them alone. As I stated in my previous reply, it is not unusual for the color of light to vary according to viewing angle, especially with "projector beam" housings. If you still feel the need to re-adjust them, before anyone starts playing around with them I highly recommend you do the following: First, follow the directions for aiming the headlights by parking your vehicle in front of a vertical wall (I believe the Owners Manual States 25 feet) after dark, to check how the head lights/fog lights are aimed. The top of the fog lights cut off line should be visibly below the low beam mid point to low point delineation. In other words, aimed lower than the low beams. Do yourself a big favor and check the aim before playing with the adjustment. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Cindy. :D Assuming that the fog lights are the factory lights/bulbs (not added aftermarket), it sounds as though one may simply be aimed incorrectly. In addition, it is not unusual for the color of the lights to look different in the manner you describe (viewed from different angles), as the light refraction will give the appearance of different colors (white/blueish) according to the angle of view. Have your husband (or you, of course) read the Owners Manual and follow the directions to re-aim them properly. As you stated above, it should be done at night. Additionally, they should be aimed low. as fog lights are meant to give a low and wide light pattern. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MKx. :D You will need to have "defective" ones. There will be TSB's concerning the issue (already are), but there will not be a "Recall". Recalls are usually reserved for more serious issues, not usually for what is only a "Cosmetic" issue. A problem like this will be handled on an "as needed" basis. In other words, if your wheels peel or the cover is loose and they make noise, you bring it to the Dealer and they will replace them under Warranty. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Texastinlegs. :D I am not sure if it was a typo (or in this case, multiple typo), but the Edge is tuned to use 87 Octane fuel (not 83). Of course, there is no 83 Octane automotive fuel that I know of in the U.S., so I am still assuming it is a typo. Anyway, there is at least a third (and more likely) option, as far as conclusions are concerned. That would be that your engine timing and/or another engine tune parameter is off, and were likely not tuned correctly at the factory. Make an appointment and inform the Service Department of your 93 Octane experiment. Let the Service Department know how the "pre-detonation" disappeared when you filled with Premium fuel. This is a classic sign (pinging while "under load" on Regular grade fuel that disappears when Premium is used) that either the engine tune is off or an engine has heavy carbon build-up in it's combustion chambers, around the valves etc.. Since the carbon build up is unlikely on a new engine, that leaves the engine tune problem. Ask them to check and re-tune the engine back to factory specs. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi msgtia. :D Concerning the wheels, it never hurts to ask the Dealer if they will do it. However, those people who were successful in getting their Dealer to agree to swap wheels, generally made the agreement before they purchased their vehicles. Then the Dealer swapped the wheels before the car was ever driven off the lot. Not after they had been purchased and been driving for a while. It is hard to explain, but the way the Warranty System works, the Dealer will need to replace your defective wheels with the same wheel style, or they will not be reimbursed by Ford. Unless the Dealer is willing to work around that hurdle, it is doubtful that they will take a loss on the wheels, since the ones you have are defective (and used) and can not be put on another vehicle. There are ways to do it, but the question is whether the Dealer will be willing to go through the trouble for a sale they already made. However, like I already said, it can not hurt to ask. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Sorry I did not immediately notice that you asked this question nearly a month ago. I assume you already know the answer to your question, for better or worse.

Hi Smackya. First of all, if you have a six button remote, you do not have the "Factory Alarm" in your Edge. You have the Ford Accessory Remote Start/Remote Keyless Entry/Security System (i.e. it is an Aftermarket Accessory). Your system was not installed at the Factory on the Assembly Line. It was installed after the Factory Assembly Line, either in a separate staging area, or at the Dealer where you purchased. Either way, it is not a Ford Factory Alarm System. Ford Factory Alarm Systems have a four button remote. In fact, if you had taken the time to check the Ford of Canada website, you would have seen that there is no price listed for what you have (the Remote Start/Remote Keyless Entry/Security System with 6 button remote). It tells you to "Contact Dealer for pricing". It also tells you that the system requires the "Securilock Interface Kit #4". This is because it is installed aftermarket. It is not a Factory Alarm System. You are simply ordering it when you order the car. There is a $200 listing for the "Vehicle Security System" for vehicles equipped with the "Factory Remote Keyless". As you will read, it clearly states that this system uses the 4 button Factory Remote Keyfobs. That is the Factory Alarm System, and the Alarm System/Locking system performs exactly as we had previously answered. As you can see, I have done my research to find the correct answers to the questions. I have not just typed out a rude and incorrect answer. I treat people with respect (as long as they treat me the same way). Next: Please go back to the first post in this thread and read the question that was asked. "Kbillydj", the OP (original poster) asked how to disable the honking from the factory door locking system. He did not ask about the Factory Alarm. In fact, no one brought up an alarm system at all, until "jenetix" mistakenly thought that he/she had the factory alarm, when in reality they had an aftermarket alarm manufactured by "KARR". We answered kbillydj's and jenetix's questions, over a month and a half ago. You then reopened an old thread (nothing wrong with that). What there is something wrong with is incorrectly answering a question that nobody asked (what the factory Alarm does), which will only serve to confuse anyone who wants to know how to stop their horn from honking when they lock the doors. To compound your error, you do not even have a "Factory Alarm System". You thought you had a Factory Alarm System. If you have a six button remote, you have the Ford Remote Start and Aftermarket Accessory Alarm system. You do not have a Factory Alarm System. Unfortunately, you are mistaken. Next: If you read my previous post correctly, you would have read the following (underlined), "Also, the horn honking on the Factory System has absolutely nothing to do with the alarm. The honking only deals with the doors being locked. That's it. The horn has nothing to do with the alarm being armed or not. Once you turn key in the ignition to the "Locked" position, the "SecuriLock Anti-Theft System" is armed. Again, the horn has nothing to do with the alarm system being armed or not. It is strictly a confirmation of the doors being locked (on the second press of the keyfob lock button). The above quote (again, underlined) already makes it clear that what I copied and pasted from the Owners Manual deals with the Locking System, not the Alarm system. Because a Factory Alarm does not honk the horn. And again, you do not have a Factory Alarm System. It is a Ford Aftermarket Accessory, installed after the Assembly line. Clearer now? I was perfectly polite in my reply to your incorrect information. You were rude and incorrect just now. So, as you can see, you are the one mistaken. Perhaps you can research your information better before shooting off at others. Especially before you insult others when you are wrong. In fact, I have been very polite in some of the other posts you have created today, where you stated completely incorrect information. I merely politely corrected the misinformation you provided, without being rude or condescending. Other than that, what I have just pointed out to you are researched and verifiable facts. I have even told you where you can find the information I have provided. And although you were wrong and rude, I have not and will not sink to insulting you. Even if you were correct, which you were not, you still did not need to be rude. The Internet has plenty of rude individuals, how about being one of the helpful ones instead? And before you quickly type another rude reply, how about doing some research first? I did. It would be the mature thing to do. There are a lot of very helpful and friendly people on this forum, if you treat them with respect. So, to make what I am saying perfectly clear, if your next communication with me is a polite and mature one, I will consider what has just happened as a misunderstanding and simply "Water under the Bridge". We can then start again with a clean slate. Good luck.

Hi SMACKya. :D Unfortunately, your information is incorrect. The Factory system works exactly as some of us have already described in this thread (and was settled over a month and a half ago). The information I copied and pasted below (in red) is directly from the Ford Edge Owners Manual: Locking the doors 1. Press and release to lock all the doors. The turn lamps will flash. 2. Press and release again within three seconds to confirm that all the doors are closed. Note: The doors will lock again, the horn will chirp and the turn lamps will flash once if all the doors and liftgate are closed. Unlocking the doors/two stage unlock 1. Press and release to unlock the driver’s door. Note: The interior lamps will illuminate. 2. Press and release again within three seconds to unlock all the doors. The Ford Edge Factory locking system does not honk the horn when you unlock the doors, no matter how many times you press the remote button. And when locking the doors with the remote button, it does not honk on the first press of the remote lock button, only the lights flash. If you press twice within three seconds, the horn will honk on the second press (and the lights will flash again). Also, the horn honking on the Factory System has absolutely nothing to do with the alarm. The honking only deals with the doors being locked. That's it. The horn has nothing to do with the alarm being armed or not. Once you turn key in the ignition to the "Locked" position, the "SecuriLock Anti-Theft System" is armed. Again, the horn has nothing to do with the alarm system being armed or not. It is strictly a confirmation of the doors being locked (on the second press of the keyfob lock button). Some functions on our vehicles can be re-programmed. The horn honking or not honking while locking/unlocking can not be re-programmed. The precise directions for what can and can not be re-programmed are in the Owners Manual. It is all in the Owners Manual. If your locking system behaves differently, you either have an aftermarket system, or you should make a service appointment, since your system is not working properly. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Smackya. :D Unfortunately, that information is incorrect. No passenger car, not even high performance cars like Corvettes, Ferrari's and Lamborghinis, have 17" brakes (rotors). They all top out at somewhere near 15". Actually, we have answered this question before. For some reason, when they quote brake specifications in Canada they quote the minimum wheel diameter needed to clear the rotors and calipers. That is deceiving, as the brake rotors themselves are only 320mm front and 302mm rear. That means the rotors are only 12.6 inches front and 11.9 inches rear. Brake size is determined by the rotor diameter by everyone else in the world. If any of us were to walk into an auto parts shop and asked for 17" brakes (rotors) for an Edge, they would fall on the floor laughing. In other words, Canadian brake specifications merely state how large your wheels need to be to clear them, not the actual size of the rotors. Again, rotor size is the accepted measure of brake size, so the Ford Edge Sport has 12.6 in inch brakes (actually 320 mm). Again, no passenger vehicle comes with 17 inch brakes (rotors). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D The first application of the EcoBoost 3.5 liter turbo engine will be in the Lincoln MKS (not the MKZ). Current plans are for this to occur approximately spring to mid 2009. This information has been public for some time now. The MKS is the Lincoln flagship, so that is where the newest engine technology will debut. The MKS is currently available with the 3.7 liter normally aspirated Duratec. As production of the 3.5L EcoBoost ramps up, then we will begin to see it in other Ford/Lincoln-Mercury vehicles. But it will the MKS first, then the new Ford Taurus (2010 model). Probably also the new Lincoln MKT when it debuts later in 2009. Maybe the MKX, MKZ and Edge next. But they will see it later, not sooner. Also, as SMACKya stated, some of them will see the EcoBoost I-4 before they see the V-6 version, due to fuel prices and customers MPG concerns. Again, this information has been public knowledge for some time now. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - SMACKya, just as an FYI: The turbo engines Ford uses in Australia are a 4.0L Inline 6 and a 2.5L Inline 5 Duratec. They are not the 3.5L V-6 Duratec which we have here. You can verify that information on the Ford of Australia website: LINK: Ford of Australia

Hi Leo. :D Congratulations and welcome to the Forums! Just one question though: Do you mean 2008 Edge Limited? There is no "SEL Plus" model in the 2008's. Either "SE", "SEL" or "Limited" (Limited replaced SEL Plus for the 2008 models). Anyway, congratulations! Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MKX2007. :D Just a couple of FYI's concerning what you stated above. First: As per our Owners Manual, the factory fill is not any sort of special "break-in" oil. The engine is filled from the factory with Motorcraft 5W-20 Semi-Synthetic. It is the same Semi-Synthetic you can buy off the shelf at any auto store that carries it (WalMart also stocks it). Absolutely nothing special about it. The Owners Manual simply states do not add any "friction modifiers" during the "break-in" period. Next: Officially, the "break-in" period for our vehicles is only the first 1,000 miles (as per our Owners Manuals). That's it. While conventional wisdom states that the engine will continue to "break-in" and even see a fuel mileage increase through as much as the first 5,000 miles, the "break-in" period is still only the first 1,000 miles. So officially, you can replace the factory oil fill as soon as you drive the car home if you like (would be foolish, but you can). My personal opinion is that a full synthetic could be considered a "friction modifier", so I would advise (my opinion) waiting at least 1,000 miles before filling with a full synthetic oil. Me? I follow the Maintenance Schedule, 7,500 miles or 6 months. Since I only put about 5,500-6,000 miles per year on this car, I wind up changing every 6 months with about 3,000 miles on the oil. And I do not bother doing a first oil change early the first 1,000 miles (some insist you should change as early as 500-1,000 miles). I simply do my first oil change at 6 months (again, about 3,000 miles for me). Hope the "break-in" information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jukikee. :D So, doing some basic math, if you drive about 10,000 km per year, in 4 years at the end of your Lease you will have driven approximately 40,000 km. That means you would have paid for 100,000 km of routine maintenance, but only received 40,000 km worth. Insert your own numbers, but unless you are going to drive close to 25,000 km per year, this is not worth it. In all honesty, even if you do, the $1,350 entry fee seems high. As you stated, "Can light bulbs, hoses, and wiper blades add up to $1350???". Let's look at that statement. In four years, you will not normally need to replace any light bulbs and usually no hoses. Wipers? Once or twice a year. Two oil changes a year on average. Coolant is good for longer than 4 years. Brakes? Maybe one brake job if you are a bit hard on brakes. Spark plugs? Good for 100,000 miles (not sure of km conversion, about 160,000?). Clutch disc? Automatic transmission. Good for more than 4 years without high mileage or abuse. Shocks? Same story. Good for more than 4 years without high mileage or abuse. So you are paying $1,350 for what? 8 oil changes, 8 sets of wipers, maybe a brake job and another miscellaneous item or two. Seems a bit pricey to me. You need to examine your driving habits and decide what is best for you. Again, the above is simply my educated opinion. Others may disagree, and I respect their right to have a differing opinion (as long as they also respect mine). Whatever you decide, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jukikee. :D Well, this is my "educated opinion": First, you only mention miles. How many years is the Plan for? There are always time and mileage limits. Next: If it is strictly an "Extended Maintenance" contract (oil changes, brake jobs, windshield wipers etc etc), but does not cover things like a broken transmission, blown engine, electrical problems etc., it is not worth it. That is too expensive. I would not purchase it. If it is an "Extended Warranty", which extends your Bumper to Bumper Warranty (covering broken trans, blown engine, electrical problems etc etc.) to 100,000 miles, then it may be worth it, according to how many miles a year you put on your vehicle and how long the Plan is good for. So before any of us can give a more detailed answer, we need to know what type of Plan it is and what it covers. Does it only cover routine maintenance or does it cover major component breakdowns. You also need to know that information before you can make an educated decision. Post back and let us know the answers. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jukikee. :D Can you be a little more specific. There are 16 posts before yours, and they do wander a bit. There are Extended Warranties, which extend your New Car Warranty. They are the ESP Plan in the United States, FMPP Plus in Canada). Then there are also Maintenance Plans (where regular maintenance is paid for). If you are planning on purchasing a Maintenance Plans, it would not make any sense to wait until later. The Plans are different in Canada, so the rules may also be different. Go to this site and browse the different plans available: LINK: Ford of Canada Extended Service Plans There is also a Customer Relationship Center phone number listed on that site for questions concerning the Plans. The Canadian Customer Relationship Center number is 1-800-565-3673. Give it a call and ask for more specific information. Also, keep in mid that the pricing of Extended Warranties and Maintenance Plans is negotiable, just like the price of a new car is negotiable. And you do not have to buy the contract from the Dealer you purchase the vehicle from.. you can shop around at other Ford/Lincoln Dealers So do not accept the first offer. Insist on a lower price before you will sign a contract. Call other Dealers and ask for a price on the same Plan from them. In other words, negotiate your best price. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi vs08edge. :D Try browsing through the selections here: LINK: California Car Covers While I did not have the time to check all of the selections, they do have back seat covers. EDIT - I checked the selections, and if I am correct it seems they do not yet have an offering for the Edge. Maybe you can give them a call and get some updated information/let them know people are interested. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi akirby. :D No, I have not received a PM from you. Was it sent in this forum? Let me know.