bbf2530

:D Hi Always_smile1st. I copied and pasted this from my other reply to your other post concerning this ongoing problem. Sorry to hear about your problems. To begin to address them in the proper manner, take a look at the Warranty booklet that should have been given to you when you purchased your Edge. If you can not find it, you can download it here: LINK: Warranty Information. Just click "Warranty" in the left menu, then fill in the drop down boxes to the left with your vehicle information. The Warranty Booklet lays out a precise process of the steps to take if your Dealership can not resolve your problems. If necessary, you will need to begin the Lemon Law process on your vehicle. The thing is, you need to initiate this process. Neither the Dealer nor Ford will "usually" volunteer the information after the fact (although they did hand us a booklet outlining the correct procedure when we purchased our new vehicles). Following the procedure outlined in the Warranty Booklet will get you further (and get you there quicker) than an Internet letter writing campaign. Good luck. :beerchug:

:D Hi Always_smile1st. Sorry to hear about your problems. To begin to address them in the proper manner, take a look at the Warranty booklet that should have been given to you when you purchased your Edge. If you can not find it, you can download it here: LINK: Warranty Information. Just click on "Warranty" in the left menu, then fill in the drop down boxes to the left with your vehicle information. The Warranty Booklet lays out a precise process of the steps to take if your Dealership can not resolve your problems. If necessary, you will need to begin the Lemon Law process on your vehicle. The thing is, you need to initiate this process. Neither the Dealer or Ford will usually volunteer the information (although they did hand us all a booklet outlining the process when we purchased our new vehicles). Following the procedure outlined in the Warranty Booklet will get you further (and get you there quicker) than an Internet letter writing campaign. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Clayton. :D The machined aluminum are 1 piece. They have more of a matte or satin look to them, as opposed to the "mirror look" of chrome or chrome clad. However, as an FYI: The chrome clad aluminum wheels are are not "steel wheels with the Chrome Clad hubcap". They are aluminum wheels with a chrome clad facade or cap. In addition, I would not exactly call it a "hubcap", as it is not removable. To my knowledge, the machined wheels have a protective clearcoat finish on them (similar to the paint finish of a car). So essentially, you will treat them as you would your paint finish. Wash with car soap and water to clean. Periodically apply a coat of wax and buff them (same wax you use for your paint finish). Do not use chemical wheel cleaners. There is no need for them, and they will damage the finish over the long term. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Clayton. :D I can understand your concerns on the "test drive" miles. That is why I always Factory Order my new cars. But I know that is not an option available to everyone. Well, I can think of a couple of quick options: 1 - Why can't your Dealer swap for the one that only has 21 miles on it? 2 - If they can not swap for that one (21 miles on it), purchase it at the Dealership that has it in stock now (19 miles away). You are not required to have your car serviced where you purchase (it does sometimes help though, even though technically it should not matter). You will lose the car washes, but I would not want my new baby put through a mechanical car wash anyway. 3 - Purchase the one that will have 400 miles on it, but use the extra mileage as leverage on a better price, or at least some extra oil changes, accessories, etc. Just a few quick thoughts. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi akirby! Oooops! Hey, so I transposed a few numbers! But even you didn't get it quite right though! The Lincoln Powertrain Warranty is 6 years/70,000. at least through 2008. Guess, I am going to have to stop drinking during the day, :party: or brush up on my typing skills. :stats: Well, typing classes it is! And we will have to start drinking together! Like my dear Grandpappy used to say, "I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy!" Thanks for the catch. :beerchug:

Hi Rando. :D As Abrannan stated above, you can temporarily turn the warning off by pressing and holding the "RESET" button for several seconds, until the warning turns off. You will then have your normal "Message Center" options (for a time). However, the warning will reappear approximately every 10 minutes of driving time, and each time you restart the car, until you gas up. Until you gas up, you will then need to press and hold "RESET" again, each time it comes back on. All of this is explained in detail in your Owners Manual. There is no current way to permanently disable the warning. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - I must have been composing this reply while Lex was posting above.

Hi Clayton. :D Existing mileage is not added to the Warranty. The moment your odometer reads 36,001 miles, you are officially outside the "Bumper to Bumper" Warranty. Well, 3 years/36,000 miles "Bumper to Bumper" for Ford/Mercury vehicles, 4 years/50,000 miles for Lincoln, regardless of how many miles are on the vehicle when you purchase. Then you have your "Powertrain Warranty" for Ford/Mercury (5 years/60,000) and Lincoln (6 years/70,000). If the Dealer or Salesman tells you that the mileage is added on, get them to put it in writing, because it is the Dealer warranting the vehicle for the extended mileage, not Ford. Two questions. How many miles do you drive a year? Will you even drive 36,000 miles in three years? But yes, if they drive it from another Dealership to yours, you "lose" that mileage. Or if you purchase a vehicle that has 500 miles on it, your Warranty is only good for another 35,500 miles. Good luck.

Hi kalphoto. :D This is a copy and paste of my reply in your other post concerning this question. There are so many reasons why mileage varies, that it is hard to list them all. Here are just a few (keep in mind that you can personally do something about 6, 7 and 8): 1 - One month is really too soon to be concerned about fuel mileage. How many times have you filled up? 900 miles probably means only about 4 fillups, tops. 2 - Your mileage will improve as your Edge breaks in. This can take up to 5,000 miles to see the full benefit to your mileage. 3 - You cannot compare your "city/highway" driving to that of others. Or for that matter, compare your MPG's to that of others. Let's just say that Internet mileage estimates are a funny thing. Let's also say that I have seen people claim they are getting 19-20 "city" MPG. It is safe to say that what they are calling "City" driving does not qualify for the EPA definition of city driving. People sometimes have a tendency to innocently exaggerate. People also sometimes have a "faulty calculator". Also, it's the Internet so let's face it, some people just make it up as they go along. 4 - Most areas of the country are still using "winter fuel formulations" (oxygenated), which give lower MPG's. 5 - If you are in an area where the temperatures are still cold, that will adversely affect your MPG. Longer idle times to warm up. Richer fuel mixtures, etc. 6 - Do you normally drive with your HVAC controls set to "AUTO"? If you do, it is the equivalent of driving with your Air Conditioning on all of the time. Turn off the "AUTO" setting when not needed, and just use the vent settings with the fan. 7 - Have you checked your tire pressure lately? If you have not, you should. Low tire pressure will decrease fuel mileage. If you do not already have one, purchase a good tire pressure gauge and inflate your tires to the cold pressure recommendation for your vehicle (about 34-35 PSI I believe) if not a pound or two higher. The Ford recommended pressure is on a sticker on the drivers side door jamb. EDITED: Do not rely on the TPMS system (Tire Pressure Monitor System) to keep an eye on your tire pressures for you. It is not much more than a glorified "idiot light". By the time the TPMS warning light illuminates, your tire pressure is already dangerously low. 8 - Alter your driving style to maximize MPG. Avoid jackrabbit starts and stops. Coast to stop signs and lights. Don't use the gas pedal/brake pedal as on-off buttons (I am not implying that you do, just making recommendations). These are just a few of the many reasons why MPG will vary from person to person and vehicle to vehicle. If you really think there is a problem, then your best bet is to take it to the Dealer and have them check it. However, at this point they will likely give you the above advice and ask you to give it some time. Good luck.

Hi kalphoto. :D There are so many reasons why mileage varies, that it is hard to list them all. Here are just a few (keep in mind that you can personally do something about 6-7 and 8): 1 - One month is really too soon to be concerned about fuel mileage. How many times have you filled up? 900 miles probably means only about 4 fillups, tops. 2 - Your mileage will improve as your Edge breaks in. This can take up to 5,000 miles to see the full benefit to your mileage. 3 - You cannot compare your "city/highway" driving to that of others. Or for that matter, compare your MPG's to that of others. Let's just say that Internet mileage estimates are a funny thing. Let's also say that I have seen people claim they are getting 19-20 "city" MPG. It is safe to say that what they are calling "City" driving does not qualify for the EPA definition of city driving. People sometimes have a tendency to innocently exaggerate. People also sometimes have a "faulty calculator". Also, it's the Internet so let's face it, some people just make it up as they go along. 4 - Most areas of the country are still using "winter fuel formulations" (oxygenated), which give lower MPG's. 5 - If you are in an area where the temperatures are still cold, that will adversely affect your MPG. Longer idle times to warm up. Richer fuel mixtures, etc. 6 - Do you normally drive with your HVAC controls set to "AUTO"? If you do, it is the equivalent of driving with your Air Conditioning on all of the time. Turn off the "AUTO" setting when not needed, and just use the vent settings with the fan. 7 - Have you checked your tire pressure lately? If you have not, you should. Low tire pressure will decrease fuel mileage. If you do not already have one, purchase a good tire pressure gauge and inflate your tires to the cold pressure recommendation for your vehicle (about 34-35 PSI I believe) if not a pound or two higher. The Ford recommended pressure is on a sticker on the drivers side door jamb. EDITED: Do not rely on the TPMS system (Tire Pressure Monitor System) to monitor your tire pressures for you. It is not much more than a glorified "idiot light". By the time the TPMS warning light illuminates, your tire pressure is already dangerously low. 8 - Alter your driving style to maximize MPG. Avoid jackrabbit starts and stops. Coast to stop signs and lights. Don't use the gas pedal/brake pedal as on-off buttons (I am not implying that you do, just making recommendations). These are just a few of the many reasons why MPG will vary from person to person and vehicle to vehicle. If you really think there is a problem, then your best bet is to take it to the Dealer and have them check it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi pumpmom. :D Yes, sorry about that addition to the post. I must have been editing while you were reading. Anyway, you are very welcome! Glad I was able to help (and able to explain things somewhat coherently)! Yes, I figured the "beerchug" thing was probably some quirk in the display or settings. Had to give up chugging beer many years ago! Best of luck!

Hi pumpmom. :D Well, first you can call me bbf or bbf2530. "Beerchug" is the name of a smiley icon (two smileys clinking glasses of beer) which I inserted, but must not have shown properly. Sounds like a character from "Animal House". Maybe you have your settings set to not show smiley icons? Now for the important stuff. If your pressure gauge is accurate, then yes, your tires are definitely underinflated. If the recommended pressure on your door sill sticker is 35 (I thought the MKX was 34, but could be wrong), you should have them inflated to at least 35 PSI. Some tire experts recommend going a pound or two above the auto manufacturers recommendation, as it will give better gas mileage, better handling and longer tire wear, with only a small decrease in ride comfort (most people can not tell the difference in ride comfort). I go two pounds high in my MKZ, the choice is yours. Either way, you are at least 5 PSI low. In addition, tires pressure should be checked "cold". In other words, in the morning before you have driven more than a half mile or so. Otherwise, you will get a higher reading when the tires heat up from driving. You want the PSI to be at the proper pressure when they are cold, not when they are hot from driving or midday heat. Concerning the wear bars. First, I am not 100% sure what you mean by "all wear bars showing except the inner one (3 of 4)". The wear bars go laterally across the tread, not around the circumference of the tire. Maybe I am just misunderstanding what you are describing. If I understand you correctly, you are stating that the tires are less worn towards the inside of the tread? Is that correct? If so, it sounds as though your alignment may be a little off. Could be a little too much positive camber, could be the toe is off (or a bit of both). Have it checked. I also want to reiterate the importance of timely tire rotations. You should perform them at least every 7500 miles (Ford's recommendation), or sooner. I would recommend doing them when you perform your oil changes, which ideally should be every 5000-7500 miles. If you perform these basic maintenance jobs (maintain proper tire pressure, tire rotations and alignment check) on time, you will be surprised how much longer your tires will last. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi pumpmom. :D Several questions: First, where are the tires worn? The outside shoulder? Inside shoulder? Middle of the tread only? Evenly across the entire tread? The answers to these questions are very important as to determining what may be the problem, since it can be caused by a variety of issues. It could be an alignment problem, incorrect tire inflation, etc. etc. Next: Do you own a tire pressure gauge? What pressure do you keep the tires inflated to? If you do not have a good tire pressure gauge, that is one problem. If you do not know what pressure your tires are inflated to, that is another. The TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) is only an "idiot light". It does not give a warning until the pressure has dropped 25% below the manufacturer recommended PSI (it is listed on the sticker on your drivers door jamb). Therefore, on a vehicle that has a 34 PSI recommended pressure, you will not get a warning until the pressure has dropped to approximately 26 PSI. That is already dangerously low and will cause accelerated tire wear. In other words, by the time the TPMS warning light comes on, the damage is already done. Owners must still routinely check and adjust their tire pressure. Also, the recommended rotation schedule is every 7500 miles (as per the Maintenance Schedule). You should perform it that often, or sooner if you wish, but not extend it to 10,000 miles. Regular tire rotations will extend your tire life. Neglecting tire rotations will shorten the tire life. Post back with the answers to the above questions, and we will try to help. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D I realize this post is about a month a half old now, but figure the information may help someone. While researching a while back to purchase a Windshield Heat Shield for my MKZ, I came across this site: Car Cover-Depot.com LINK: Windshield Heat Shields. It is one of the recommended online Retail sites to purchase products made by Covercraft, a maker of high quality car products (Car Covers, Heat Shields, etc). Their prices are good, especially when you take the fact that they do not charge shipping into consideration. I compared pricing at all of the Covercraft recommended retailers before purchasing. Covercraft makes both a Fold-up "Heat Shield" model (more heavy duty), and a roll up "Sun Shield" model. I purchased the fold up "Heat Shield" model. It is a custom fit. Not even an extra inch between the Heat Shield and the sides or top of the windshield. I also purchased the custom storage bag for it. I highly recommend the Heat Shield and CarCover-Depot. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Clayton. :D A buyer can not use both. As Grey stated, a buyer can only qualify for one of the other. Under the current rules and exclusions, you have a choice of either the Cash Incentive or the Special APR Finance Rates, not both. In a way, you are correct. Just not in the way you were hoping. They are separate, as in they can not be combined. They "Standalone". Also, that link you provided is not to the Lincoln Website. It is the website of that particular Dealership (Pavilion Lincoln/Mercury). The Lincoln site is Lincolnvehicles.com. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D Sorry for quoting myself above, but after reading what Grey posted, I guess I need to clarify also. For maximum efficiency when introducing a disinfectant to your HVAC system to stem an odor problem, you should set your HVAC system control so that it is not on "Recirculate". Then you should spray the disinfectant through the grill in the cowl (where the hood meets the windshield). In this way you will be drawing the disinfectant in through the vent at the bottom of the windshield. This will give the disinfectant the best chance of running through the areas of your HVAC system that are most likely to be harboring mold/mildew/etc. While spraying it in the footwell while on "Recirculate" will help some, the disinfectant will not get to the most likely areas affected by outside moisture and contaminants. Those areas are the vent system bringing in the outside air. Additionally, taking off the grille at the base of the cowl periodically and cleaning out any leaves, bugs and other debris will help. You will be surprised how much junk will sometimes accumulate there. While cleaning out the debris, check to be sure the drains are not blocked. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi IWantAnEdge. :D Correct me if I am wrong, but didn't you say that you will be taking the Special APR Finance Rates? If you do, you can not qualify for the $2,000 Cash Incentive (at least not under the current restrictions). Under the rules of the current Incentive Offers, it is one or the other. In addition, to make your life easier, you should know the following: You can not compare the price you get to what someone else got in the past or will get in the future. Incentive packages change. Incentive packages vary by region. People on the Internet have fuzzy memories or just plain get it wrong. All of these things plus other variables make it impossible to compare apples to apples. Something as simple as a person saying "they got a price below Invoice" is tricky. The price is above Invoice until the Incentives are deducted. Once Incentives are deducted you have a "below Invoice price". That is not the same as getting the car "below Invoice". You must always compare prices before Incentives are deducted, due to the variability of Incentive packages. Let me give an example: I can brag that I got my car at "$1,000 below Invoice". Sounds like a great price, right? Well, if there were $3,000 Incentive Cash when I purchased, that means my price, before Incentives were deducted was $2,000 over Invoice. That is an absolutely horrible price once the facts are known, but just saying "$1,000 under Invoice" sounded good at first, without the full facts. On top of that, I could be paying an APR Rate of 9.9% on a $30,000 six year loan on that "$1,000 under Invoice" deal. Well, that isn't so great either. I hope you understand what I am trying to tell you. Now, back to your situation: If you can get your price down to $200-$300 over the "Actual Factory Invoice Price", before any Incentives are deducted, you have a really good price. Obviously the lower the better. In most normal cases on a regular retail, non Ford Purchase Plan sale, you will not get lower. The only way you can get a price below "Factory Invoice" (again, before Incentives are deducted) is if you are buying a hard to sell leftover, or you are purchasing on the Ford Employee AXZD-Plans. The Edge is a hot seller, and Dealers are not selling them below Factory Invoice (again, discussing the pricing including all fees and charges before the Factory Cash Incentives are deducted). This is a fact of life that those of us who constantly assist others in pricing know and understand. Just wanted you to know what your options are. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Randy. :D My opinion? "Possible" but not very probable. Two of the problems you describe, the pull to the right and the plastic chrome blistering/flaking are two of the more common complaints. The "blistering" of the chrome (it is probably not really a heat blistering, just the somewhat common poor finish adhesion and bubbling) would have occurred on the outside face of the wheel if it truly was from heat, since that is where the heat source would be applied from. Additionally, cars that are repainted in collision shops nowadays are not really "heat baked" anymore. You would melt the plastics contained in a new car, both outside and in. What you most likely have is a case of a few minor defects that slipped past the QA inspectors at the plant. If you still have any doubts, stop by an Auto Body Shop near you and ask them to take a quick look at the car. Any body work/re-painting would be readily apparent to anyone familiar with collision repairs. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D Just an FYI for those who wish to spray an HVAC disinfectant through their system. The HVAC system draws outside air in through the grille located at the base of the windshield where it meets the cowl (by the windsheild wipers arm bases). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Craiger. :D I do not know the cost offhand, but believe I have seen some versions priced at about $20 (not 100% sure though, since I do not have TPMS). Try calling Team Ford Parts at 1-800-791-6436. Of course, to get a general idea on the MSRP of the tool, you can always call your Dealer Parts Department (if they are competent). Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Again, be sure you get the correct tool for the TPMS system on your vehicle, as the tool can vary from vehicle to vehicle and system to system.

Hi Clayton. :D This is one of those questions that can best be answered by asking the Dealership. As "akirby" stated, they may do it either way. However, most Dealers will simply drive it unless you request otherwise, since it is cheaper to do so. In the end, the Dealer is going to do what costs them the least. I would not be completely surprised if they attempt to charge you extra to have it placed on a flatbed. Fight any attempt to charge extra, if you request a flatbed. Additionally, whether they drive it or flatbed it, your Warranty still only is valid to 36,000 Bumper to Bumper, and 60,000 Powertrain. In other words: If the car is driven and delivered to you with 500 miles, your Warranty ends at 36,000, not 36,500. I only mention this due to what "droth" stated, since I read that to mean you would get a 150 mile extension on your Warranty. That is not correct (my apologies to "droth" if I am misreading the post). Ask the Dealership and see if you have any options. Good luck Clayton. :beerchug:

Hi meatgel. :D Just an FYI, in case you were unaware: The Ford recommended "Normal Service" interval on the Edge is 7500 miles (not 3,000). Unless your driving qualifies as "Severe Service" or you use your Edge to tow, you do not need to perform regular maintenance at 3,000 mile intervals. Dealers are still pushing 3,000 mile service intervals because they naturally make more money on more frequent service. Save your money and follow Fords recommendations. Of course, if it gives you peace of mind to perform service more frequently, go ahead and do so. All of this information is available in the Maintenance Schedule that you should have received with your car. If you can not find the booklet, you can download a PDF copy here: LINK: Maintenance Schedules Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi CreamEdge. :D Thanks for the information. Besides the MSRP (sticker price) and Trade-in info, another very important piece of information would be how much you received in Incentives/Rebates. For example, it makes a big difference in pricing information as to whether that "OTD" price included $500 of Incentive Cash, or $3,000 of Incentive Cash (or some other figure). Please let us know when you get home and have the time. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi CreamEDGE. :D Some more information would be helpful as to pricing. For example, what was your Edge's MSRP? What was its Invoice price? How much Incentive Cash did you qualify for? What was your final purchase price? Did you Trade-in a vehicle? Did that price include the Trade-in? What APR rate did you get on your financing? Figures are always helpful, as people have very different ideas as to how vehicle pricing actually works. Hope you can give us that information. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Tom. :D Yes, there is a tool available. You can purchase it at your local Dealer, or other Ford Parts Supplier. I am sure that it can also be found on ebay. Just be sure you get the right tool for the Edge TPMS system, as there are different versions. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi IWantAnEdge. :D Well, let's work with what we have so far then: 1 - Yes, you are still eligible for the Cash Incentives if you factory order. The disclaimer merely means that you qualify for the Incentives in place at the time you take delivery, not the ones in place when you order (if they should change). 2 - With the current Incentive offers, if you take the Special Low APR Rates, you can not qualify for the Cash Incentive. It is one or the other, you can not qualify for both. 3 - If you are taking the Low APR Rates and this price ($500 over "True Factory Invoice) is the "Out the Door" price, including all fees and charges (other than Tax, Title and Registration), it is not a bad price. Not quite a great price though. Personally, I would try to get it down another $200-$300. But that is me. Sometimes you can reach the point of diminishing returns and the haggling becomes more of a hassle than the savings. Only you can decide when you have reached that point. I would just reiterate what Grey said earlier: Check out pricing at a few Dealers. I find it is always worth the trouble when you are buying retail. Let us know about the "Out the Door" price question. Good luck. :beerchug: