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Hi Dan. :D As you mentioned, the Ford recommended oil change interval is 6 months/7,500 miles (whichever comes first) for Normal Service and 6 months/5,000 miles for Severe Service (explanations of each Service type is in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide). Dealers will push all types of shorter intervals (3,000 miles, 3,750 etc.) to increase their profit margins. Heck, at 3,750 miles they will make twice as much money off of you on oil changes than if you followed Ford oil change intervals. While you will hear many different opinions, the bottom line is that there is no need to change the oil sooner than the Ford recommended service. After all, they did design, engineer and manufacture the vehicle. However, if it will help you sleep easier at night, then change it sooner. To protect your Warranty rights, just do not go longer than the Ford recommendations. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Theakerr. :D Just to avoid confusion for others (not trying to argue, only provide the correct information for others): Premium fuel is not required for the 3.5L EcoBoost in the Flex, Taurus SHO, MKS and MKT. Premium is the recommended fuel if the driver wishes to obtain the maximum (and published) power outputs (HP, torque). In addition, the vehicles were EPA tested using premium. However, regular gas can be used and the engine management system will adjust operating parameters accordingly. This information is readily available on the Ford website and other resources. This information is correct for U.S. spec vehicles and I am not sure where you live and. If you are in Canada, perhaps the vehicle requirements are different (I just do not know). But regular fuel (87 octane) is perfectly acceptable in U.S spec EcoBoost 3.5L's Hope this clears up any confusion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi freckleface. :D Please forgive this copy and paste of my reply from your other thread on this subject: "In all honesty, you would be better off going to KBB.com, NADA.com, Edmunds.com, and other professional automotive pricing resources to work up the Retail, Private Party and Trade-in values yourself. This would give you a much better idea as to the actual values for your particular vehicle in your area and for the way you plan on selling it (i.e Retail, Private Party or Trading-in). While it does not hurt to ask here, you will essentially be getting a bunch of random opinions from people who live all over the place with God knows how much actual expertise in automotive pricing. There are just too many variables involved for random Internet pricing polls to be accurate. While there are some people who feel that those professional sources mentioned above are not very accurate, those sources are certainly more accurate than a bunch of strangers guessing over the Internet. They at least give you a starting point to work from. Of course, this is just my educated opinion, so whatever you decide to do, good luck." :beerchug:

Hi Ghastly. :D I am very sorry and apologize that I did not see this post until today. Although this reply is certainly far too late, here goes: The only extended Warranty that I can recommend in good conscience is the genuine Ford ESP Plan. I do not know of one aftermarket, third party extended service plan that I would recommend to a friend or family member (so I can't recommend one here either). For those not awarer, the time limit for purchasing the Ford ESP Plan is the end of the "Bumper to Bumper Warranty. So 3 years/36,000 miles for Ford/Mercury and 4 years/50,000 miles for Lincoln. Ghastly, please let us know what you decided to do. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi freckleface. :D In all honesty, you would be better off going to KBB.com, NADA.com, Edmunds.com, and other professional automotive pricing resources to work up the Retail, Private Party and Trade-in values yourself. This would give you a much better idea as to the actual values for your particular vehicle in your area and for the way you plan on selling it (i.e Retail, Private Party or Trading-in). While it does not hurt to ask here, you will essentially be getting a bunch of random opinions from people who live all over the place with God knows how much actual expertise in automotive pricing. There are just too many variables involved for random Internet pricing polls to be accurate. While there are some people who feel that those professional sources mentioned above are not very accurate, those sources are certainly more accurate than a bunch of strangers guessing over the Internet. They at least give you a starting point to work from. Of course, this is just my educated opinion, so whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Hank. :D That supposed "REAL answer" was nothing but an unattributed copy-and-paste stating that today's transmissions do not keep their internal pressure pumped as high as older transmissions, so there may be a hesitation during acceleration/gear kick-downs, since pressures must be increased before the transmission can react. That is what "The new ATF variable displacement pump with real time pressure control system only pumps the volume of fluid required of the moment and has no method of predicting the future" means when explained in simpler terms. Therefore, you had better hope that the Ford Engineer does not see it the same way as wwest described. To put it bluntly, if the Ford Engineer does see it the same way, he will tell you there is nothing wrong with your car and go home. Of course, anyone who wants to wisely advise you would not copy-and-paste a vague/general answer concerning modern automatic transmission pressures. Especially one which tells you (to paraphrase his copy-and-paste), "This is the way your transmission is designed to work and there is nothing that can be done about it. So to learn to live with it.". An individual who was truly interested in helping you would advise that if you feel you have a transmission issue, you should have the transmission checked by your Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealer, especially if the vehicle is still under Warranty. If it is operating properly, you will be told so. If not, it can be properly diagnosed and repaired. It is simply impossible for anyone to determine over the Internet whether your concern is normal or not. And due to the complexity of today's vehicles, a proper diagnosis may take more than one visit. And you may need to try another Dealership if you are not happy with the service from yours. To put it mildly, wwest has some very "unique" ideas concerning automotive science and many members here have been dealing with correcting the hit-and-run damage he causes for some time now. I would be wary of someone who feels that they can diagnose your possible transmission issues with a copy-and-paste from an unnamed source which does not answer your actual question, all without ever seeing or laying hands on your transmission. And that, according to him, is the "REAL answer". It's a miracle! Or, to directly quote two other relatively sane members (are any of us really? ) of the Edge Forums concerning another of his "opinions" (in this case his thoughts on the EcoBoost technology): - "He doesn't have any valid points, just lunatic rants. He hates ecoboost technology, thinks it's safer to use summer tires in the dead of winter and thinks a FWD based AWD vehicle is a patently unsafe deathtrap. Just ignore him." - "wwest is a cancer that is all over the internet. It's best to avoid his posts, they're nonsense." The actual thread can be found here: 2011 Ford Edge Debuts 2.0L Turbo Eco Boost . If you surf the sub-forums a bit for his posts, you will find many other opinions that agree with the two above. You would be wise to take their advice. Anyway, please let us know the Ford engineers diagnosis. Good luck. :beerchug:

HI PW. :D I am not trying to be a wiseguy. I also do not have the directions in front of me as you do. So that being stated upfront, I will try to answer your question by giving a strictly literal interpretation of what you just described to us: Using "self-tapping screws to pierce the underside of the hood assembly" is not drilling. The screws create their own holes without a drill being needed. So "literally/technically", they are not lying when they state "no drilling is necessary". Yes, that still does not reconcile with the "used the factory holes" part, but again, I don't have the directions in front of me to verify exactly what it says. Is it possible that some of the fasteners use "factory holes" and others are self tapping screws? Just a guess. I am not defending the loose use of the language in the directions to "mislead" buyers, only pointing out another perspective in the reading. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi trockli. :D The correct way to find the price of a particular vehicle is to go ta Ford Dealer and tell them you are looking to buy a vehicle on the X-Plan. Once you find one you like, ask the Dealer to show you the Factory Invoice (not the Window sticker). On that Factory Invoice is a box labeled "X-Plan". The price in that box is the X-Plan price. Ford requires the Dealer to show you the original copy of the Factory Invoice, so do not accept hand written figures or any other substitutes. Or as Ford explains it on the AXZ-Plan website: "1 - The dealer is required to provide you with a true copy of the factory invoice showing the X-Plan/Partner Recognition price on the line labeled X-Plan. You should also receive a complete and signed AXZD-Plan Pricing Agreement showing each item and its price. Do not sign this form if it is blank or if you do not understand how the price was calculated. All added items must be documented on this form, including negative equity on trade, and gifts. 2 - The X-Plan price is the amount shown in the box labeled "X-Plan" near the bottom of the factory invoice. The New Vehicle Purchase Program price includes advertising, finance costs, transportation, fuel charges and Ford Motor Company administrative fees. The dealership may not charge extra for these items. 3 - The New Vehicle Purchase Program customer is entitled to the price in effect at the time the vehicle was invoiced. Any money refunded to the dealer by Ford Motor Company for price increases occurring after the order is submitted, but before shipment to the dealer, must be refunded to the customer." As far as how X-Plan is figured, it is calculated like this for Ford and Mercury vehicles - "Dealer Invoice - (0.4% * Dealer Invoice) + $275 Administration Fee". For Lincoln vehicles it is - Dealer Invoice + (0.6% * Dealer Invoice) + $275 Administration Fee". Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 2010 Limited. :D While experience teaches that almost anything is "possible", a lack of TPMS sensors on the wheels should not affect the use of the cruise control system. Additionally, not to ask a stupid question, but are you sure you are using the cruise control properly? Have you checked the Owners Manual to be sure you are attempting to set it correctly? I do not mean to insult anyone's intelligence, but we have seen these types of problems sometimes being attributable to simple "user error" in the past. Bottom line is that you should take your Edge in for service to determine what the problem is caused by. And to avoid any Warranty related problems, just verify that the new wheels are sized correctly before doing so. You may even want to reinstall the factory wheels first to see if it has any effect on the problem. It should not, but one never knows sometimes. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - And just to reiterate: I truly do not meant to insult your intelligence by asking any of the above questions. Remember, we can not know how knowledgeable anyone else may be (or not be) with the limited information we get in short posts on the Internet.

Hi bigbob. :D As akirby stated, disconnecting/replacing the battery completely wiped out all previous mileage memory and readings. So instead of the mileage being based on all previous miles accumulated (or since the last time you reset the mileage to zero), it is only being calculated based on the few miles you have driven since the battery was reconnected. It is similar to the day you first drove the car off the Dealers lot with 10 (or however many) miles on it. Therefore, the mileage will rise and fall very quickly, in direct relationship to your current driving environment until you have put more mileage on the vehicle again. You will quickly begin to see the mileage stabilize as the miles go by. It is the same story with the "Average MPH" readings. Also, in case you do not own one (which if you were using hammers, chisels, screwdrivers and prybars :eek5: I assume you do not): There is a battery terminal puller that should be in the tool box of anyone who owns a car. It looks like a funky little type of mini-vice and only costs a few bucks in most auto stores. Just pop it on the terminal, turn the vice screw and off she comes. Along with a battery terminal brush/cleaner, it will save a lot of "gentle persuasion" (along with money, busted knuckles, broken terminals etc.) in the future. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi mustang. :D If you look at he last post previous to yours, you will see that it is dated almost three years ago. Anyway, if you check your Owners Manual, you will find a section describing the functions of the Message Center and the Compass itself. There will be a recalibration procedure listed for the Compass function.. Follow that procedure and see if it solves your problem. If it does not, your next step would be to make a Service appointment to have the problem diagnosed and repaired. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi inerfx. :D Just as an FYI: The wood is real in the 2011 MKX, just as in the earlier models. It is not "faux"/plastic. As the Lincoln website describes, where there are wood accents in the MKX, it is genuine wood and varies in color/type in relation to the interior color chosen. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi msfd. :D I do not know of anyone who has as of yet. First of all, it would lead to major Warranty problems (for those who care about their Warranty) and second, there would be some not-exactly-insignificant hurdles to overcome concerning PCM/ECM programming etc. However, just wanted to mention one point that many people do not realize (or fail to take into account when comparing fuel prices: That "significantly less expensive fuel" (E-85) also gives significantly lower fuel mileage. So in the end, the price advantage disappears, and most drivers wind up paying the same cost/per mile. The advantage may swing one way or the other according to regional pricing, but the differences are normally negligible in the end. Not trying to tell you what to do, just pointing out some hurdles which you may encounter. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi interfx. :D Really too many variables to answer in a short reply. However, to try and answer briefly. Both are very nice vehicles. However, the MKX is positioned as the more "luxurious" vehicle. Different styling. More standard equipment and available options. Larger more powerful engine standard. Higher price for all of those perks. The Edge is positioned as the more "sporty" and/or more "value conscious" vehicle, according to how it is optioned. For the best information, you should really go to the Ford and Lincoln websites, or pick up the brochures at your local Ford and Lincoln Dealerships. Then you can compare pricing, standard equipment and options directly. Hope this information helps a bit. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Ron. :D The OCI (Oil Change Interval) is still 6 months/or x,xxx miles. If you look closer in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide you will find the 6 month interval mentioned. Even in the event there is a misprint/omission and the Scheduled Maintenance Guide fails to mention the 6 month interval at all, the OCI is still 6 months/x,xxx miles, whichever comes first. Unfortunately, it is confusing that it is specified/mentioned in some areas and not others. However, as akirby stated, the time limit is still 6 months. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi chainsaw. :D The DTE will correct itself if you simply leave it alone for a few start/drive cycles, and maybe a refill. Therefore, the best thing to do is just leave it alone. As akirby mentioned, disconnecting the battery will also reset it. However, it will still take some time to recalculate and you then must also perform the "idle trim" relearn process which is outlined in the Owners Manual. This process must be performed whenever the battery is replaced/disconnected. Otherwise your Edge may not run well for some time. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Hank. :D As you saw, this thread is almost year and a half old. The "hesitation" that sanche (the OP) felt he was experiencing was likely normal for the transmission. Add to that the fact he/she has not been back often and your best bet may be to make a service appointment to have your concerns diagnosed and fixed if necessary. This would be especially true if your car is still under Warranty (Bumper to Bumper or Powertrain only) Not trying to ell you what to do if you want to wait for an answer here, just trying to help you get your concerns addressed as quickly as possible. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Edgieguy. :D As akirby mentioned, a numerically higher axle ratio is used to help improve the acceleration ability of vehicles used for towing. Additionally, numerically higher axle ratios are also used for acceleration purposes/benefits of non-towng vehicles, sports cars etc.. So in the case of the Edge Sport, the purpose of the numerically higher axle ratio is twofold. First, to to give a quicker feel on off-the-line acceleration. And second, to help with that off-the line acceleration the higher axle ratio also helps make up for the heavier rolling stock and increased diameter of the Sport models 22" wheels/tires. Simply put, it takes more energy/power/torque to get a larger diameter and heavier wheel.tire combination moving, and a numerically higher axle ratio helps. Of course, keep in mind that same higher ratio hurts overall fuel mileage, since the engine will need to turn higher RPM'S at any given speed. This last part is speculation and educated guessing: While I have not yet researched the load rating of the 2011 Edge Sports 22" tires, they may be the reason that there is no tow package. With the 22" wheels/tires, the sidewall ratio has to be decreased dramatically to keep the overall wheel/tire diameter within specs. Generally, when you decrease the sidewall ratio, the load rating of the tire also drops (in apples to apples comparisons). So it may very well be that the Edge Sports tires cannot handle a passenger and cargo load, and still maintain any type of realistic towing capacity. Hope this information helps. And while I figured I would play it safe and reply, my apologies if you already know all of this information. At least it may help anyone else who possibly has similar questions concerning axle ratios, etc.. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D Just to add to (and concur) with what akirby stated: I added this information to my reply above, but feel it is important for people to know when discussing the term "Invoice Price". Keep in mind that when we use the term "Dealer Invoice Price", we mean the actual Factory Invoice Price listed on the Dealer copy of the Factory Invoice, not the Invoice Prices listed on sites like Edmunds, Cars.com etc.. The Invoice Prices listed on those websites are only close approximations, since they do not include certain proprietary costs/charges included in the Factory Invoice Price. The correct way to obtain the X-Plan Price of a vehicle is to tell the Dealer you are interested in purchasing a particular vehicle on the X-Plan. Then the Dealer is required to provide a copy of the actual Factory Invoice to you. On that Factory Invoice is a box labeled "X-Plan". The price in that box is the X-Plan Price. It already includes all X-Plan costs other than a $75 max "Documentation Fee", Tax, Title and Registration (and any Dealer installed equipment/services and/or Extended Warranty you may have negotiated with the Dealer). Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Edgieguy. :D The actual X-Plan formula on Ford and Mercury vehicles is as follows: Dealer Invoice Price - (0.4% of that Dealer Invoice Price) + a $275 Administration Fee. _________________________________________________________________________ EDITED - Keep in mind that when we use the term "Dealer Invoice Price", we mean the actual Factory Invoice Price listed on the Dealer copy of the Factory Invoice, not the Invoice Prices listed on sites like Edmunds, Cars.com etc.. The Invoice Prices listed on those websites are only close approximations, since they do not include certain proprietary costs/charges included in the Factory Invoice Price. _________________________________________________________________________ So using your Invoice example above, the X-Plan Price would be $41,112. That would be the Invoice price of $41,001 - 0.4% of that Invoice Price (in this case, $164.004) + a $275 "Administration Fee". Then the Dealer can add up to a $75 maximum "Documentation Fee". To that only your State and Local taxes, Title and Registration can be added. No other Dealer added fees are allowed. So in your case, the X-Plan Price on that exact Edge would be $111 over Invoice. So essentially, if my math is correct, your "Out the Door Price" would be $41,112 + a $75 max "Documentation Fee" + State/Local taxes + Title/Registration - any Incentives/Rebates you qualify for. Additionally, if you purchase any Dealer installed equipment/services, an Extended Service Plan etc., those costs would also need to be negotiated with the Dealership and added to the price of the vehicle. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi sirteman. :D You do not mention which model/version of the Ford Remote Start you have. However, you can try here: LINK: Ford Accessory User Guides In the "Select Type" dropdown, choose "Owners Guides". Then in the "Select Description" dropdown, choose "Electronics". You will then have a choice of three system PDF's to choose from. Hopefully, one is correct for your system. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi klc317. :D Just want to echo the sentiments of igcitng and Prinz. Great job. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gears. :D Sorry, almost forgot to mention: Congratulations on getting your new Edge and welcome to the club! Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gears31327, kstateaddict and makidada . :D Just to avoid confusion concerning current and future engine specifications in the 2010 (and 2011) Ford Edge and Lincoln MKX: The 2010 Edge and MKX both have a 265 HP/250 lb.-ft. torque 3.5L engine. They do not yet have the improved 285 HP/253 lb.-ft. torque version of the 3.5L engine. The 2011 Edge will have the improved 3.5L, 285 HP/253lb.-ft. torque engine as standard equipment. The 2011 Edge Sport will come standard with the improved 3.7L, 305 HP/280 lb.-ft. torque engine. The 2011 MKX will come standard with the improved 3.7L, 305 HP/280 lb.-ft. torque HP engine. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ThinLine. Since the thread has moved on, and to avoid reopening any unnecessary arguments, I am not going to rehash things again. You are certainly entitled to your interpretation of what happened, and I will take your opinion into consideration when faced with similar circumstance in the future. Edgeyone, your Edge looks great and good luck with it. :beerchug: