bbf2530

Hi AXCL. :D Waldo gave a good explanation, but it is difficult to get across. The best way to try and understand is to read the Owners Manual instructions concerning how to operate the HVAC system, but I will give it the old college try anyway: If you want the HVAC system to get the interior to the set temperature (e.g. 72*), you must leave it set to "AUTO". Do not then hit the front "DEFROSTER", "FLOOR", the dash registers or any other button to redirect air. Also, do not change the fan speed. The reason you can't hit those buttons is actually simple: Once you change the setting to "DEFROST" (front), "FLOOR", "VENT" etc., or change the fan speed to anything other than what "AUTO" ran it, you defeat the "AUTO" settings and the system will only blow 72* air out of the corresponding registers. Essentially, if you hit those buttons, the system thinks you don't want it running on "AUTO" anymore. So if you want the interior of the car to be held at 72*, set the system to "AUTO", set the temperature to 72* and do not touch any other HVAC system buttons. If you do, the system will only blow air out the particular registers at the set temperature, which will not heat or cool the car to that set temperature and keep it there. It will only blow 72* air. And as you have witnessed, blowing 72* air on a 60* day will only get the interior temperature up to about 65*. And the colder the day, the worse it will be. Leave it set to "AUTO" and touch nothing. Also, "AUTO" will normally give enough dry air to the front windshield, either through the defroster registers or by generally drying the cabin air, to keep the windshield clear. In addition, keep in mind that all of the following settings will enable the A/C compressor, whether set for heat or cold: "AC", "AUTO" and the front defroster. So all three will normally adversely affect fuel mileage. But again, this is all explained in much better detail in the Owners Manual. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi oakplank. :D To answer what I can: First, no, the fact that your Window Sticker was available online does not necessarily mean that your vehicle has been built. Window stickers are printed and available before production of the vehicle begins. Second, no, the build date is not listed on the Window Sticker. Again, this is because the sticker is printed well in advance of the actual build date and future build dates can vary according to build scheduling, unexpected delays, material holds etc. etc.. All dates on the sticker have to do with administrative dates, not the actual build date. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi chop. :D Take a look at the Scheduled Maintenance Guide you were given when you purchased your Edge (if you purchased new), and you will see what the 30,000 mile recommendations are. If you are following the "Normal Service" recommendations, as opposed to "Severe Service" (which again, are explained in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide), there is nothing special that needs to be done at 30,000 miles. According to when you last had them done, essentially an oil/filter change, tire rotation and some various maintenance checks/inspections, most of which are usually performed in the "Multi-Point Inspection" when you have an oil change done at a Ford Dealer. That is all that Ford recommends. Now, if you pay attention to the Dealer and their Service Department, they will sell you a bunch of other service/maintenance at 30,000 miles that is unnecessary and will do nothing but lighten your wallet. So just read the Scheduled Maintenance Guide and do what is specified there. If you lost/misplaced your copy, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Ford Owner Guides Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug: EDIT - PS - Hi chop. Two additions to the information above - First, I just checked and the 30,000 mile service also calls for and engine air filter change. Second, the Scheduled Maintenance Guide includes all Ford vehicles. So be sure you are looking at the "Normal Schedule Cars & CUV's" or the "Special Operating Conditions" sections for the same. Do not mistakenly use the "Trucks, Fullsize Vans and SUV's" section.

EDIT - Was typing my answer at the same time akirby posted, so had not seen his reply yet. Hi Keith. :D First question: Have you followed the instructions for programming/erasing Keyless Entry codes that are right in the Owners Manual? If not, those are the instructions you need to follow. If for some reason you don't have an Owners Manual, you can download a PDF copy here: LINK: Ford Owner Guides To be honest, your post is a bit unclear (to me at least), therefore the rest of my reply just tries to cover some of the possible bases. So next, I am not sure what directions you are following, but to my knowledge there is no way to "disable" the Factory code. As the Owners Manual directions explain (2008 version, pages 139-141), you can program in up to 3 personal codes (in addition to the factory code) and change or erase them yourself at any time. However, the Factory set code is permanent. There are no directions or instructions in the Owners Manual to disable the Factory code. Those instructions are only for any personal codes an owner has added. If "11111" is not the factory code and is an added "personal" code, then follow the instructions in your Owners Manual (not whatever instructions you found online) to disable the owner added "11111" code. If your Factory code is really "11111" (?), you will need to contact your Dealers Service Department to see if they can get instructions from Ford to help you. I would point out to the Dealer and Ford that the Owners Manual specifically warns against a code with 5 of the same number or 5 sequential numbers (copied an pasted from the Manual): Tips: • Do not set a code that uses five of the same number. • Do not use five numbers in sequential order. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Burtman. :D There is no extensive break in period for newer vehicles, but there are some important directions you need to follow. This is from page 5 in the Owners Manual: BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in. Drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before towing a trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter. Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since these additives may prevent piston ring seating. See Engine oil in the Maintenance and Specifications chapter for more information on oil usage. As you can see, you can essentially drive it immediately on the highway at highway speeds. However, you must vary your speed during the trip (and for the rest of the first 1,000 miles). Conventional wisdom states that you should vary your speed by at least 10 mph every ten minutes or so during highway driving. So don't set the cruise control at 65 and drive for 2 1/2 hours. Other than that, just do not drive the vehicle excessively hard during the first 1,000 miles or so. As always, people will have differing opinions on how to treat a new vehicle. In my opinion, it is best to follow the advice of the people who designed, engineered and manufactured it. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 1duFos. :D If you check the Tire/TPMS section of the Owners Manual, it explains how the system works. The vehicle must be driven some distance before the warning will illuminate. It varies by situation, but if I recall correctly, it can be 20 minutes or more in some cases. And this is the case each time you restart the car. The Manual explains it much better than I can in a short reply. If you have routinely driven for more than 20-30 minutes straight since the wheel swap, then you may have a TPMS system error. If that is the case, then you should schedule a service appointment for diagnosis. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi revO. :D What I can tell you is this: In the diagram, the perspective is with the hood open you are standing in front of the drivers side headlight looking down at the top of the housing. So, stand in front of your drivers side headlight housing looking directly down at the top. Then use the diagram to locate the bolts and electrical connectors in the vicinity of the adjustment screw on top of the housing in the diagram. If you do that, you should be able to locate the adjustment screw (at least, that is how I did it). Additionally, the diagram represent both types of housings (Halogen and HID), since the adjustment screw (and most of the other external features of the housings) is identical on both. Differences are mainly limited to internal components (optics and any other necessary component changes). Hope this information helps. If not, hopefully someone can provide a picture of their headlight housing that may assist you better. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MrHappy. :D You are very welcome. Hope things work out. Let me know how the price comparisons/shopping goes and what you finally decide to do. Like I said, I shopped a total of about a dozen online and local Dealers. I would be curious to know what your final thoughts are. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gang. :D As has been mentioned above, there are a few options that may help some of you: First, you can purchase screw caps that fit over and hide screw heads. For example, they are usually sold to hide/camouflage the license plate screws themselves. So you would remove the license plate bracket, place a screw in the hole and install the cap to hide the screw. They are available in chrome, black and a few colors. If you can not find your particular body color, you can purchase a can of matching spray paint and prep/paint them to match. Another option: You can use simple push-pin type plastic fasteners with flat heads to fill the holes. And in the same manner, you can paint them to match the bumper/grill color (although matching chrome would be tougher with these,, since chrome paints are sort of iffy...). These items and the paints needed will be available at any good automotive store. You can also get the paint at your local Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealer. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MrHappy. :D Okay. Yes, maybe he is not in today. And weekend are weekends, so I simply never expect to get a call back on a weekend. Since you left another message this morning, give it until mid-afternoon tomorrow. If you listen to all the prompts, you can also leave a message for him (Michael Case) directly. I just checked and his name is still on the voice mail recording. Try leaving him a direct message on his personal voice mail tomorrow morning (or tonight). If you hear nothing back, post back here and let me know. If you like, you can send me a PM with your first name, so that I can let him know which non-returned call/message was yours? Again, I don't know Michael Case personally, only through my ESP purchase (I don't even live in the same Sate as the Dealership). But if you don't hear back, I will try to contact him. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MrHappy. :D Hmmm...that is unusual. Which Dealer did you leave voice mails with (Harold Ziegler Automotive Group or Flood Ford ) and when did you leave them (how long ago)? I usually received a callback no later than the next day. Of course, anyone leaves a message on the weekend, it is likely they won't get a call back until business hours during the week. Since I was happy with the service, I had asked Michael Case at Harold Ziegler AG if he would mind me mentioning his and his Dealerships name on the forums if anyone asked about ESP Plan assistance. Of course, he said that would be okay (as an FYI, other than helping out fellow forum members I am not getting anything out of it). If he is not returning calls for some reason, I will attempt to find out why. Let me know the details and I will try to help if I can, Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Stever. :D No need to call the Dealership, your DATC system is working correctly. If you have the system set to Fahrenheit, the gap is 60 to 65 and vice-a-versa (no 61, 62, 63 or 64*F). Without getting into too much useless detail, when set to 60*F (or 16*C), it is somewhat equivalent to setting the system to "MAX AIR" on a manual system, and that is the way the system is designed. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi tknice. :D Waldo is correct. And there is no way to program the vehicle to do so. While there may be some sort of aftermarket solution, off the top of my head I do not know of one. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi nextime. As a hard and fast rule, I do not discuss my professional status on the Internet. Nor do I ask the professional status of others over the Internet. In all seriousness, Internet claims can not be verified, so it is silly/fruitless to do so anyway. If you are here on the Blue Oval and Ford Edge forums long enough, you will be able to determine soon enough who is helpful and/or ca be depended on for accurate information.. You can also check the profiles of other members (including mine) to see how they have assisted others in the past. It is obvious at this point that we are not connecting, so it probably better that we politely part ways. So while I will not bother you with my advice or assistance in this thread anymore, I will gladly help you in the future if you wish.. I truly do wish you luck in modifying your Edge.

Hi nextime. I (and akirby) have been completely courteous and tried to help you. Unfortunately you don't care for the answers and are now being argumentative with someone who was only trying to help answer your question. And on the subject of your question, I certainly can not be blamed for how you worded it. I have not been rude in the least. But now, let's stop beating a dead horse and put the "kit" question aside: Since you are certain that all of the parts must be available for purchase (and they very likely are "available", but they will be expensive), call your Dealership and do so. Just stop by/call your Dealership or contact an online Ford parts seller, ask them what you need to add SYNC to a 2011 Edge SE and order it. There is nothing else any us us can do to help at this time. If no one else jumps in with the answers you are looking for, contact your old Dealership and see if they can help. We have honestly tried to help, so please try not to be rude. Good luck.

Accidental double post.

Hi nextime. Above, I have quoted your first post. As everyone can see, your specific question was "Is there any ford kits out there where I can add Phone to my stock radio". The answer to that question, as we have explained, is no. There is no Ford Accessory kit available yet for the 2011. Yes, we all know that the parts are available individually, since Ford must have them to build new vehicles and perform Warranty repairs on defective ones. That is a "no-brainer". But let's be honest, that was not the question you initially asked. You are now discussing an entirely different question/subject. You now are wondering what components, electronics and programming would be necessary to purchase to add SYNC. Then installing them yourself or having a Ford Dealer/someone else them.. If you wish to search out all of the parts and do that, you can certainly do so. But by definition, that is not a "Ford Accessory kit". It is not even a kit. It is purchasing individual parts that may or may not actually accomplish what you are trying to do. Additionally, you need to understand that not all "parts" are readily available for purchase by customers through Ford Dealers or online parts sellers. It is an unfortunate fact of life. So that leaves us with the fact that the "parts" you need/want are not currently available in a Ford Accessory Kit. Also, if you can determine everything that is needed and order the necessary components, it is a relative certainty that the total cost of those individual parts (plus the reprogramming of your current audio unit) will not be cheap . Most likely costly enough that it would have been more sensible to purchase an SEL equipped with SYNC in the first place. But for whatever reason, you chose to purchase an SE which is not available with SYNC at all. That was your choice when you purchased, I am sure you had your reasons and I understand/respect that choice. Now concerning the Warranty question? Some of us here are quite familiar with Warranty policy. But to reassure yourself, ask your Dealers Service Department about any Warranty issues involved with what you are contemplating. They will inform you of any problems. Concerning how we know these answers: The simplest explanation is that many of us have been here for some time, you are not the first person (or tenth) to ask these questions, we try to help others and take a certain amount of pride in assuring we provide correct answers. Concerning the buttons on the radio? We explained why, as it is common automotive industry practice, but you don't like the answer. Unfortunately, as those of us here for some time know in situations like this, there is nothing more to say that will convince you otherwise. So when you get those buttons working, be sure to let us know. The bottom line is, since you used to work for a Ford Dealership, you certainly must have some connections that you would trust to help explain all of this to you. They can also hep you compile a list of the individual components, electronics and programming necessary to accomplish what you want. Please understand, we are trying to help you and no one is trying to give you a hard time, but this is a dead-end discussion that can be drawn out forever. I do wish you the best of luck in your search. Please post a list of all of the parts/components when you find out. And if you install it yourself, maybe you can do a "How-to" write up. It will certainly help others who may wish to do what you want to try. Good luck.

Hi nextime. The parts are available, but Ford does not sell them as a Ford Accessory kit. Whether you choose to believe us or not, there is no kit currently available. The information provided to you is not only from the website, it is information directly from Ford. We mention the website so you can check for yourself. Currently, your only option would be to find out on your own all of the missing components, electronics and programming that would be necessary to convert your SE, then purchase them individually, open up your dash and install them (thus causing possible future Warranty issues since it is not a Ford kit). If you wish to do that, you certainly can. But again, instead of debating the issue with people who know the answer and are only trying to help you, check directly with Ford or your Dealers parts department. If they tell you otherwise, then we were wrong. Good luck.

Hi nextime. :D Again, I understand your frustration, but the information we have given you is correct. If it is not listed on the Ford Accessory website, then there is currently no Ford Accessory kit available to convert your 2011 SE to SYNC or Bluetooth. If you feel the information we have given you is incorrect (although we have no reason to lie to you), it would be better to check with Ford or your Dealer for further information. Please let us know if you find a Ford Accessory kit available. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi nextime. :D I understand your frustration. However, if Ford had an accessory kit available at this time, it would be listed on the Ford Accessory website. If you want to research further, check with Ford and/or your local Dealers Parts Department. Essentially, with the introduction of "MyFord" and "MyFord Touch" in the 2011 models, the dashboard layout and vehicle electronics differ greatly from the 2010 and earlier models. Therefore, the previous SYNC and Bluetooth accessory kits are probably not compatible with the 2011 models (or not certified as compatible yet). That does not mean they won't add one for the 2011 SE/SEL in the future, but for now it means Ford does not offer one. Concerning the buttons, akirby gave you the correct answer. The same unit that is in your SE is also used in the base SEL, which like the SE, also has MyFord (but no SYNC) standard. However, SYNC is an option on the SEL. So they are not going to produce two different units, they just equip the SEL with the proper components, electronics and programming for SYNC. But the phone button is present either way, but Ford does not yet offer the components necessary for SYNC/Bluetooth as a compatible accessory for 2011's. Hopefully, Ford will add an accessory package in the future, or you can go aftermarket. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi nexttime. :D Genuine Ford Accessories used to have an available kit to add Bluetooth capability to pre-SYNC vehicles. I have not checked lately so do not know if it is still available. I do not know if it would enable the "phone" button or not, but it made Bluetooth connectivity possible. You can check the Genuine Ford Accessory website or with your local Ford Dealers parts Department for availability. There are also aftermarket (non-Ford) options available. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Carol Lee, :D If you check the drawings in the Owners Manual, you will see there are several differences in the face plates/buttons between the two head units. For one, the 6 CD unit has "CD-6" printed above the CD slot, the single CD unit does not. The 6 CD unit also has an additional button (well two half circular buttons instead of one circular one) to the left of the slot. The top half circle button is the eject button, the bottom half circle states "LOAD". On the single CD unit, there is only a single circular eject button. My best advice would be to compare your audio unit to the drawings in the Owners Manual and see which you have. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDITED - Disregard. Did not realize this was an older thread.

Hi stoushr. :D Although you have not been back to respond, MrHappy is 100% correct and I should be severely chastised for overlooking that possibility. If you did not properly size your new wheel/tire combination, your speedometer/odometer may be off calibration. That speedometer/odometer error could appear to add to the inherent mpg penalties that usually come with larger diameter wheel and tires. You can use the Tire Size Calculator found here: LINK: Tire Size Calculator to calculate the difference between your old versus new speedometer/odometer calibrations. Simply input your old wheel diameter/tire size and your new wheel diameter/tire size and the calculator will list the percentage difference in the overall diameter and speedometer/odometer error between your old and new setups. Let us know what you find out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi stoushr. :D Yes, it is certainly possible that switching from 17" to 20" wheels would hurt your fuel mileage that much, due to the added rotational mass, likely added weight etc.. Other possibilities? Have the temperatures in your area just recently started to drop quite a bit? Cold weather can adversely affect mpg's. So will using the "AUTO", "AC" and front defroster settings of the HVAC system (even if being used for heat), since they can engage the A/C compressor and it's resulting parasitic losses. The TPMS error was completely unrelated and would have nothing to do with the drop in mpg's. That was just an error of omission by the shop for not resetting the TPMS system in the first place. Unless something coincidentally went horribly wrong with your vehicle at the exact same time that the wheels were changed, or your HVAC or driving habits have changed after the new wheels were mounted, it is the wheels. Let us know what you find out. Good luck. :beerchug: