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Collinite Metal Wax is a great product for exactly this. If you do use steel wool, be sure to use #0000 only. Home improvement stores carry the wool, cheap.

Gotcha!

How many miles on it? Could be engine/trans mounts. Does it hsppen in every gear or only in D? Edit: Did you get OEM torque mounts or aftermarket? Were all mounts replaced?

Congrats!

Welcome, and congrats on your new ride! Have you owned an Edge before? When I got my 2007, coming from a Taurus, I had a lot of things to get used to LOL. Fortunately, driving the 2016 rental was a much easier adjustment, though the sightlines are definitely different.

If you have Qs, you can reach him easiest via his FB page. You can see the link in the video/page.

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That is typically a power steering filter that shows up on some 2011 units. Macbwt has the part number for it i think. He talks about it in his yt channel video

Is that an SHO in your avatar?

Glad your installer worked it out! How about some sound clips :D

Can you list what parts were used what brands? OEM and Moog are the strut mounts I'd use, for example. MAybe the bump stops are not adjusted properly or are missing. MAybe the control arm bushings or sway bar links are shot.

In my last post, I was referring to the engine air filter. But that should not give them interior ingress.

Couldn't agree more!

The coolant temperature being over the threshhold and the AC being turned on are the two triggers I know of. Is the AC system verified & working well? Refrigerant level is easily high or low in this system because it is correct within a narrow band. Also there is a sensor/switch in the AC system that could have gone bad, but this is so infrequent ...

Murray brand, thats way off the beaten path. OEM is best, Dorman usually works, albeit sometimes needs coaxing. OEM controllers are also best, you should be ok.

The air filter area is a VERY popular entry point. THey also like the soy materials used in environmentally friendly wiring.

GOod luck, friend!

Well there are drains under both sides of the vehicle and there is the evaporator drain that ends near the catalytic converters. Then you have the fresh air intake from in front of the windshield, and the exhaust flaps behind the rear bumper. Since these pests can squeeze their bodies in through tiny spaces, check thoroughly.

Good tip, sir!

How many miles on the Edge? Mostly hwy, city, or combo ...? AC actually helps cool down the temp because it causes the fan to kick on earlier than usual and stay on. Remaining on a short while after engine off is normal if the temp warrants that the fans remain on (over 210F or somewhere in that vicinity). Did you replace the fan controller also, or reuse the OEM controller? What brand did you replace with, and is the connection tight? I know temps rise pretty quickly while idling for any period of time once the TStat opens on mine, but I have not changed the TStat (still original). Once I get moving, temps come back down fairly quick, though not as quickly as they rose. I think that is normal, but I could be wrong. Keep checking the coolant periodically to see if it goes down too quickly, and/or you start seeing contaminants of any sort. THAT could be a major issue in the making.

I don't keep up much with the electronics scene, as it is a dazzling array of wonders But Pioneer has always offered good head units, so I would look through their offerings at crutchfield.com (a bit expensive, but they provide great advice and free install kits) to see what you want to get.

If they are competent, it should not be a problem. They would run the solvent through, allow it to "desludge", then drain it all out, fill it up, then repeat the drain/fill a couple of times more, with driving short distances in between. That SHOULD nullify any worries about remaining solvent. I don't know if you can dry out kerosene or not, but that would be nifty. There ARE organic solvents that evaporate on their own, and are used to clean out electronics.

Interesting. The union seems to think it will resolve "peacefully".

Test 1/2 hr after everything is turned off and all plugin electronics are disconnected. If the parasitic draw is still 1 AMP and you don't see any obvious issues like the CD clicking or weird things with the electronics (no aftermarket stuff, right?), the BCM would be a prime culprit. 0.2 AMP is not an issue. And yes, the BCM affects a lot of different parts.

15% off coupon at this time 2007+ https://smile.amazon.com/Bosch-6018C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSW5Q0/r