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The trans and power steering fluids are one and the same for your Edge, Dune. Both use Mercon V spec fluid. So should be pink-red when "healthy". If you take a sample of the PS fluid shortly after you are done driving it and feel it with your fingers/put it through a coffee filter and it is dirty/gritty, it is a good time for a change/flush.

Welcome, Matt, but you know, you can't buy a Yugo and come on here claiming to have bought an Edge Got pics of your new ride?

Agreed. All the guidance on the PTU/RDU fluids has come from owners, so empirical data is our friend right now.

Yes, steering fluid should be changed/flushed periodically. Any hydraulic system will get clogged with debris from weasr and tear over time. There is no set interval for power steering fluid, butdoing it at the same time as a trans fluid change would be a good idea. And I don't mean 150,000 miles either. 60,000 is the latest I'd wait. Good time to check the tpms sensors is when new tires asre being installed. Your installer should be able to advise you on keeping or replacing them.

So I guess the "folds" of the boot are creating that noise all by themselves, is what Ford is saying? Interesting. In that case, they should not be left to dry and should be covered with a long-lasting lubricant, just like they suggested.

Enjoy your vacation, Tricia, build happy memories

Sound clips before and after! Will likely have to cut that hose a little since the OEM connection comes out straight and the TS connection is at 90 degrees, plus external body looks to be significantly larger.

Have the dealer check/replace the hubs. There is a TSB on other model lines that adds a washer on the axle to supposedly solve the issue, but ultimately, hub replacement is what is required.

Hope you will do a writeup if & when you decide to tackle this project, djeyecon

Good to hear the mykey has been subtracted from the equation. Let's see if this resolves the limiter situation! Thanks again to omar302 for pointing this out.

Could be the PTU, but you will have some other symptoms first like a whine or a grinding noise or a leaking vent. Since the symptom has been localized to the front DRIVER side, I am favoring an axle issue at this point.

Sound choice, in tires and life . Good luck!

This article shows you how to approximate remaining usable tread. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=51 Tire mfrs typically build in wear "bars" also, not sure what your particular tire is set up for. Tires CAN last that long, but are they safe ... Whole 'nother story. A typical life span is 5-7 years from manufacture to discard. If you do a lot of highway driving, you can rack up a good many miles in a short time, but wear out the tread quickly, for example. When tires start to crack or dryrot, best to start looking for replacements. An alignment will be necessary to maximize the new tires' life. Also have the TPMS checked to make sure the sensors have good battery remaining.

Look for part numbers EV257 and EV261. Both are Motorcraft parts. Only these 2 need to be ordered. Not sure on the axle leak, possibly a seal issue, possibly an axle issue. That is, the rubber seal could be bad, OR the metal of the axle shaft could be pitted or scored, causing the seal to fail. I see cracking in the nontread area of the tire, plus the whitish pastches look like the belts are starting to get exposed, but IDK. Are these tires original to the vehicle? Is there low tread depth remaining? If so, time to look for replacements.

Agreed. Talk with your SA, then it's time to investigate.

Dont know about the camera, but getting the tpms retrained might get rid of that annoying tire pressure message.

I loved mashing the pedal to the metal on my loaner Accent. Fun little cars

Ford will use plants in Mexico, Brazil, etc. But built to standard. Oem shocks used to come from Sachs, a well respected mfr.

No carb cleaner on these engines, as mac said. Plugs come pregapped, no real need to touch them other than to install. I am just obsessive lol. You wont know which type pcv valve you have until you take the manifold off. I highly recommend buying both types and returning the one you don't use.

Carmen might be easier to find. Hope all goes well!

K, I think I found the OEM part (bypass valve) on EBay BL3Z9K378A: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-TURBOCHRAGER-BYPASS-VALVE-2010-2015-FORD-LINCOLN-VEHICLES-BL3Z-9K378-A-/231449794421? Here is an applications list from the same listing: 2011-2014 Ford F-150 - 3.5L 2015 Ford Transit - 3.5L 2015 Ford Expedition - 3.5L 2015 Lincoln Navigator - 3.5L 2013-2015 Ford Fusion - 2.0L EcoBoost 2013-2015 Lincoln MKZ - 2.0L EcoBoost 2013-2015 Ford Focus - 2.0L EcoBoost 2010-2015 Lincoln MKS - 3.5L 2013-2015 Ford Escape - 2.0L EcoBoost 2015 Lincoln MKC - 2.0L EcoBoost 2010-2015 Ford Flex - 3.5L 2010-2015 Lincoln MKT - 3.5L 2013-2015 Lincoln MKT - 2.0L EcoBoost 2012-2015 Ford Edge - 2.0L EcoBoost 2012-2015 Lincoln MKX - 2.0L EcoBoost 2013-2015 Ford Explorer - 3.5L 2012-2015 Ford Explorer - 2.0L EcoBoost 2010-2015 Ford Taurus - 3.5L 2013-2015 Ford Taurus - 2.0L EcoBoost

Nice find! A lot more work than putting one on the 3.5 EB for sure! http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-performance/12705-turbosmart-dual-port-blow-off-valve-ts-0203-1060-1061-setup-faq.html

Well, they have to have some way of dealing with pressure release, just not sure HOW on this engine, at least from the parts diagrams. Would need to get hold of a service manual, such as found on EBay on DVD or paper format.

I sure hope you have done air filter too, else you might find gummy bears and french fries and all that jammed up in there!!! The Motorcraft plugs do just fine, and they are relatively inexpensive to boot, no mention of any problems with them. So I'd stick to that (SP411). They will likely be gapped close to what they should be (0.054-0.057), so you can check with a spark plug gap gauge, being careful not to be hard with the center electrode on the spark plug. Not worth re-gapping if under 0.060. http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI73701-Spark-Gauge/dp/B000J544IU/ I prefer "feeler" gauges, but haven't found one for our application that I like. As for the PCV valve, I had pre-ordered both a heated EV261 and a non-heated EV257 valve because I did not know which one I had. If you order from RockAuto, you can return the one you don't use pretty easily. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1434490&parttype=5052 5% discount when checking out at RockAuto with codes found here: http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/rock-auto-discount-code.55138/page-17 3380536525584995 This discount code expires on September 20, 2015 so don't wait! As for alignments, look first for a good shop, those 3year guarantees don't mean much if they don't have competent personnel or uptodate machinery in the first place. Should cost right around $90 for a 4wheel alignment.