omar302

Found this new comparison video:

15 hours ago, colinc755 said:

Has that worked for you on an Edge with the new fob? (I think like 2016+) As far as I have seen, the old PATS programming modes in ForScan do not work on any Edges after 1st gen.

I never had to try.

However, on the private Beta ForScan (this post if you can open it) forum someone with a 2019 Edge confirmed it worked for him.

Edit: post is quoted below.

Big success today with 2.4.10 and PATS programming 2 new keys for my 2019 Edge.

Warning: I take no ownership for anyone following in my footsteps. You're at your own risk. I'm just sharing my experience as there doesn't seem to be a lot of posts about successfully using this feature in the same scenario, except for a post I found on a Mustang forum.

_______________________________

Quote

 

Brief rundown:

- Bought the vehicle used and only got 1 OEM key. I did NOT want to erase existing keys; just add new ones.

- I ordered two clone keys from eBay making sure the FCC number matched my OEM key.

- They arrived yesterday, shipped from Kentucky, but definitely Chinese made. It's fine.

- The Bad #1 - one package had a different FCC # on it than what I ordered. Neither key has the # etched on them, so it could be very easy to mix them up if not careful!

- The Bad #2 - both keys have smaller batteries than the OEM key, and it looks like there's no way to remove them without cracking the entire shell open in two spots as the battery has a metal cover over it. I might fiddle with them some more, but for now, they're fine.

- Hopped into my Edge and launched ForScan using the OBDLink EX USB with up-to-date firmware and ensured my laptop was on WiFi with a good signal.

- I was NOT able to see if the keys were compatible by doing this check: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1581. Not sure why... but no messages came up for me in the DTCs -- good or bad -- when I put the clone keys in the secret spot in the center console.

- I started PATS programming and confirmed the vehicle was aware of 2 keys: the OEM key and the lost OEM key (RIP).

- It is important to note my setup: Original OEM key and Clone key #2 (wrong-FCC) were on my passenger seat. Clone key #1 (good-FCC), I put directly in the secret spot. I did not need to put the OEM key in the secret spot during the process.

- I selected Ignition Key Programming only. I was 100% not willing to erase any keys because I didn't know if either clone key would legitimately work and didn't want to risk locking myself out.

- I did not get the "incode/outcode" message or the 12-minute time-out. With this range of vehicles, it's all automatic

- I followed the on-screen instructions. At one point it says "insert key 1" into the slot" and this worried me! I thought this might mean my OEM key, but NO. This just means to insert the first key you want programmed. I already had it in the slot, so I selected OK.

- 5 seconds later, PATS programming successful!

- I turned the car off and on as instructed, then used the Clone Key #1 to unlock/lock doors, open/close the rear door, and even remote start. Perfection.

- I then repeated the exact process for Clone Key #2, and you'll never guess what happened... IT WORKED. All buttons function as desired.

 

At the end of the day, I have 3 keys (1 OEM, 2 Clones) that all work perfectly, and 1 key lost into the void of the "sorry we only got one key with this used vehicle" dealership. Sure I could run the erase function and start over, but I'm not worried about that lost key ever coming into contact with my vehicle, so I think I'm safe.

 

Now... I have to get the keys cut. I suspect nobody will be willing to JUST cut them for me, since they're clones and I don't need to pay their extortive reprogramming fees. I figure having one good emergency key is fine for now, if nobody will cut the others.

 

Huge thanks to ForScan and their software! I was genuinely anxious about the whole process, worried that I'd do something wrong, but it was easy as can be in the end.

 

22 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

Now all I need to do is get a locksmith to program my 900mhz key.

You may want to try ForScan as they added BCM/BdyCM "PATS Programming" for erase and program keys function since version 2.3.56 (2023-09-07).

I successfully tried PATS programming on older Fords, however, I have a paid license, not sure if it is a requirement for PATS or not.

Given how the RDU has a clutch pack and that it has a "calibration" setting that has to be entered into the PCM after installation, I don't expect it to be serviceable outside a factory.

If your problem is only that the distance to empty (DTE) is showing more miles than before, then that is normal after the battery is disconnected.

This is because after a battery disconnect the average mpg used to calculate DTE is reset to a default value. It will then become more realistic after a few fill-ups.

Maybe a initialization will get the sunshade to close in one touch operation? The procedure is attached.

Power Roof Opening Panel Initialization.pdf

As described above. However, the shield (sunshade) does close fully in a one touch close. At least it does on my 2016.

@Cerberus

@1004ron

Thanks for the input.

I asked because although I do understand the concept for replacing it as a preemptive maintenance, but then using the same concept you'd replace so many other parts. Unless a specific part is known to fail, or cause a disaster if failed (internal water pump).

Also, searching around for Ford tensioners, found this on Motorcraft, stating they are tested for a 10 year / 150k mile life cycle.

*delete* double post.

Actually, the 2016 Edge does show individual Tire Pressures for each wheel.

check this video at 5:28:

https://youtu.be/th9tmsntRSw&t=5m28s

1 hour ago, LongIsland63 said:

Just bought an extended warranty from Endurance.. It's not bumber to bumber but it's not bad either. My 2016 Edge has 151k. I'm covered for 4yrs/60000 miles powertrain/AC/Drive Axle/electrical/steering/transmission/ that is the low package they cover more if you obviously pay more lol..cost me little over 100/month will pay for itself if tranny hits the floor one day. 

Normally extended warranties coverages are calculated from the original warranty start date. So make sure that yours starts from the current milage.

May I ask, why change the tensioner or idler?

You need a different dealer. If the issue started just after the transmission repair/replacement, then it is probably something they did wrong. Raise to the Service Manager and also seek an another dealership.

31 minutes ago, dabangsta said:

Need to go to a door first (didn't they decontent the rear door sensors?) to open the lift gate with the button?

If the key fob is with you, you don't need to unlock the doors first. The button should work even if doors are locked.

And yes, they did decontent the rear door intelligent access sensors. Just don't remember which year 

I personally like the hands free lift gate and I don't have issues with it accidentally opening or closing, maybe a few times only during the ~6 years of ownership.

7 hours ago, Haz said:

Sure enough, there it is, shown as "Included" in the Exterior section of Ford's 2024 Edge ST-Line Build & Price website...

 

 

Good luck!

 

This, in my opinion, proves that removing it was for cost cutting first. 

They do state in the disclosure that the information provided might include errors:

You need to change the setting in the settings menu of the left screen. I believe it is under the Display sub menu.

Edit: check this video at 11:32:

https://youtu.be/th9tmsntRSw&t=11m32s

2 hours ago, bhamraS97 said:

Mine is a SEL and has LED Signature lighting (those triangle one on the bumper). In Canada, we do not have configurable DRL option.

 

Currently, my car has low beams as DRL along with the signature LED triangles. I tried enabling the functionality for configurable DRL via settings. However, after changing the mentioned things on forscan, I got the menu and can toggle the menu but the toggling does nothing. The DRL(low beam) would remain off

The DRL only works when in Drive or Reverse, not sure about Neutral. So you have to check it while it is in gear.

Also, when the DRL is set to be configurable, as you have done now, the head light switch must be in "Auto".

18 hours ago, Haz said:

The following chart includes 2015 Edge modules and their As-Built line-data addresses...

Do you have any additional information on the BCM Ambient lighting calibration?

I don't recall reading this before.

Physically, they probably fit, but they will require some electrical modification. I don't know what.

As Gen1 Edge (2007-2010) have a single bulb for the Turn signal & brake (all red). While Gen 1.5 Edge (2011-2014) have separate bulbs for Turn signal (amber) & brakes (red).

5 hours ago, Haz said:

Emphasis added...

SSM 52317   2023 F-Super Duty, 2023-2024 Expedition, 2024 Nautilus/F-150 - Remote Start - No LED Confirmation From The Key Fob After A Remote Start Request

2023 F-Super Duty, 2023-2024 Expedition, 2024 Nautilus/F-150 vehicles will exhibit no light emitting diode (LED) confirmation from the key fob indicating that the vehicle has remote started (or not remote started). Factory key fobs with remote start no longer contain a LED feedback indicator. Do not replace the key fob for this condition. This is a normal operating characteristic and no service action is necessary.

 

 

Another unfortunate Ford decontenting!! I really find this feature useful. 

A similar discussion came up earlier. Check this post.

Hi,

Did you happen to figure the leak issue?

My coolant level seemed to recently decrease, yesterday was the first time I saw coolant on the ground. Turned out to be a leak from the connection between the heater hose and the lower radiator hose. The plastic connection that is under the two hoses going from the Air filter box to the intake.

The connecter is plastic, and there is a white "filling" or supposedly some kind of sealer, but apparently it is now hard and does not seal.

Parts list don't show a replacement except for the complete heater hose. Replacing it is expensive and seems to be a bit more involved.

Perhaps @Haz , can you please help with the removal and replacement of the heater hose? Mine is with the Hot Market cooling system, don't know if the procedure is different, bug I know the hose is different. P/N is F2GZ-8B081-F.

There is a setting in the display to enable/disable them, maybe try to turn it off then back on? Try a battery disconnect for ~10 minutes to reset the electronics? 

I personally like the feature and don't recall facing issues. May 2 or 3 times unintentionally closing, but with now drama. However, I do believe the should have had a setting to turn it on or off.

I am sure it is a cost cutting issue. Just like how they recently talked about saving $60 per vehicle if they stopped including parallel park assist. 

16 hours ago, dabangsta said:

2016 was the first year for the Edge (and quite a few other Fords) for SYNC 3.

For overseas, non North America, Sync 3 started in 2017. 

3 hours ago, Arbee said:

 

A closer pic - not the clearest or latest. This is what i have now, im out of the country at the moment to take an actual picture.

This is MyFord Touch, also known as Sync 2. If you want a good upgrade, you can find Sync 3 upgrades in Ebay or AliExpress.