enigma-2

Much of what you say may be true, as Ford redesigned the right-hand guide (not certain if this is a tensioner or not). But the do state it should be changed to the new style whenever the water pump is changed. Thanks for the explanation, very interesting. I have 110k+ and bought an extended warranty to cover my upcomimg "potential" failure. Must consider that mactfordedge ran two 3.5''s, 200k+ without failure. (Meaning that maintenance is a variable that is still a factor).

Lol, thanks.

Loved your write up, but I don't understand your friends reasoning on the tensioner's job. his. In my way of understanding, it would fail faster if the tensioner wasn't there. But it's an interesting proposition. It's my belief that it's lack of maintenance that's the cause. Not changing coolant is very important. Old coolant loses its ability to prevent corrosion and be able to keep the seals expanded. It's seal failure that allows coolant to leak into the bearing and destroy the ability of the oil to lubericate the bearing. Once the bearing wears from lack of lubrication, the destroys the seal between the water pump and engine. One of the main reasons I believe this is, is that most water pumps on these engines do NOT fail. But I'm certain that the chain is well streached by, say, 150,000 miles. So, in my thinking, chain streach is normal, but not the primary cause of failure. Just my $.02. About a year ago, Mactfordedge did a pair of videos on the water pump. What I took away from that was the seal failure precipitated the failure. https://youtu.be/GddVuKViof8 https://youtu.be/yrmH4S2_ZOI

It's our 50th wedding anniversary and we're sitting here in an up-scale restaurant, having a great dinner. Thought I'd share my wife's present to me. She thinks I'll get a lot of good use out of it.

Only with grenades and horseshoes. :-)

Just curious, how old is your battery?

Couple of thoughts: Try holding the Radio Power button and Right Seek to soft reset the computer. If this doesn't work, try a soft reset by removing the + battery cable for a few minutes. (This often works). Check fuse 29 if the ACM (radio) is completely dead. (If your still getting audio the fuse is probably good). Another common cause is the battery is old and failing (even if it's able to start the car without problems). You need to take a capacity reading on it, not just a voltage reading.

This was at local Ford/Lincoln dealer. Probably retail, installed price.

Unlikely. You know what your getting with Motorcraft but no idea as to where they cheapened the unit to sell for so much less. Remember that most of the parts (if not all) were made in China. Ever since the Dorman family sold the business some years ago, the current owners use the brand on parts they source from all around the globe. If your keeping the car, I'd go Motorcraft. If you intend to sell it, Dorman. BTW, if the origional warranty is over, do you have an extended warranty?

Not to prolong this, but how many computers have been hit by clever code writers, past firewalls, past virus checkers, past all kinds of protection. You just can't trust any software floating around the web. Adding a small bit of code and keeping the crc check the same is no big deal.

A lot of things don't show up on a test drive. There was a guy in the waiting room who had a new MKX with 21" tires. It was only a month old and was in having a second tire replaced. First one he picked up a screw. It went in the tread and came out through the sideall, killing the tire. Second tire, he hit a chuckhole and blew out the side of the tire. He was livid as he had to pay for both tires out of pocket as not covered under warranty (no road hazard warranty). Think the rep said that the tires were over $300 each. He told service rep that he never realized when he bought the car that tires were so vulnerable to damage. How many times have all of us bought a car never seeing an obvious flaw that we never seen during the test drive? (Is everyone's hand up)? Or things we could never have seen, like there is next to no selection with the 21"tires.

It's the water pump inlet tube. It's painted on the inside. On cars built BEFORE 4/1/08, the flushing chemicals will remove the paint and contaminate the water pump and cooling system.

If you download it off the web be careful of its source. I read one report where the file had a virus added which was designed to brick the head unit. (His unit bricked after installing and he blamed the file).

Panel removal starts about 1/2 through: https://youtu.be/2xrcSyvNWJk

You can cleaned dryed wax off plastic or rubber by cleaning with mineral spirits on a microfiber towel. If stuck on, use a tooth brush with mineral spirits.

Whatcha mean I can't say it, suker? So out the garage, turn on the unit and yup, have to say "radio" <doink> 100.3 FM <doink> and "then" it changes. Oh well, never liked FM anyway. <g>

Outstanding write-up Waldo. I learned a lot. The Sync is contained in the APIM and not in the ACM; right? Btw, (I apologize for running this thread in a tangent), I have sync commands for the climate control, but it comes back and tells me that the hardware is not available. HVAC module or something else?

"I'm sorry, I don't understand. Could you repeat that?"

Ah yes, you must be using on of those new Craftsman "talk to you wrench" wrenches. Been thinking of picking a set of those. Dammed expensive or so I've heard. Do they do a good job? <couldn't resist, sorry>

I thought he was going about changing the condenser the hard way ... (big grin)

If your changing coolants, completely flush the system with a good flush and lots of distilled water. Mixing coolants can create crystals that can clog.

Try turning the key and moving the shift from park to drive and back to park again. Then try to start. Alternatively wiggle the steering wheel while turning the key. (Thinking the key reader is not triggering due to ignition switch out of alignment).

Fuse #9 in the Power Distribution Box. Also #24 is the left stop/brake light, #46 is the right.

On some MY you have to replace parts. More than a simple rinse is the important thing to take away.

On the mobile version the subject line only displays "rear door pass side ...". What are you looking for? If it's a door, check Ebay. Doors go for $250 with local pickup or $450 delivered. .