enigma-2

Yes. The two different procedures are whether you have the 4" text-only screen or the 7" visual display sreen. Works no matter which CD/DVD you have.

Welcome Ken, nice car, but hard to see her in the dim light. Where have you and the better-half taken "Better Than Blue" to?

COP friend of mine told me he doesn't stop for tint, but he does check after a stop for other reasons, if he suspects too dark a film. Here's a site where you can check for your state's legal laws on tinting. Basically all states have laws on windshield and front side window. Back windows, not so much. They cover things like, the amount of tint (here in Indiana tint is ONLY allowed above the manufacturer's AS-1 line and must allow more than 30% of the light in (that is 70% VLT) for side windows). They (laws) govern; reflectivity (silver look); colors (certain colors are banded in certain states); side mirrors; whether certification is required; whether a certification sticker is required and medical exemption requirements. https://www.windowtint.com/pages/state-window-tint-laws For example you mentioned California, nothing on windshield below top 4 inches, front side windows must allow MORE THAN 70% of the light in; back and rear windows allow any tint. Reflectivity cannot be increased over normal on side windows (silver look - front or rear); cannot use RED, AMBER or BLUE tints; and dual side mirrors are required if back window is tinted. Certification IS required and a sticker attached of certification must be carried in car. As for heat rejection while still appearing legal, 3M Automotive Window Film Crystalline Series seems promising. Their 90% film rejects 90% of the IR, 99% of the UV and 3% glare reduction; all while allowing 90% of the light to get through (almost clear). Only downfall to any windshield film is the wipers will scrape dirt and small sand particles across the film and eventually cause the film to scratch, increasing glare. Same thing that happens to the glass only quicker. (Except the glass can be cleared of scratches and vinyl can't). .

You can always have your existing head unit repaired. Cost is $300 (price with Navigation) from these fellows: https://navrepair.com/collections/all/2009-ford-edge

Try running an Audio Control Module self-diagnostic test. Car should should be in the RUN position or running. Audio unit (radio) should be turned on and tuned to any AM station. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE NAVIGATION To enter the diagnostic mode, press and hold preset buttons 3 and 6 for 3 seconds until the speaker walk-around test begins. This starting test will test each speaker, one-at-a time and you are expected to listen to see if each one is operating properly. After this is over, restart the test and BEFORE the speaker test completes, press: Button #1. The ACM will carry out a self-test. At the end of the self-test, the display either indicates SELF PASS or scrolls through any DTCs present. (Note that the self-test may not indicate all DTCs that are present.) Button #2 will display any DTCs that are present. To scroll through the DTCs, press the TUNE UP button. If no DTCs are present, the display reads NO DTCS. Button #3 tests the AM/FM Antenna Signal Strength. (You will see "SIGNAL ###"). The ACM displays the AM/FM antenna signal strength. To run this test, the audio system should be in AM radio tuner mode before entering the ACM self-diagnostic mode. Button #4 displays the Software Levels (as "SOFT LEVELS"). The ACM displays software levels for various components of the audio system. Knowing the software levels may not aid diagnostics. Press the TUNE UP button to scroll through the software levels. Button # 5 is the "Display Test" (shown as "DISPLAY TEST" on the display, then all segments illuminate). All of the ACM segments illuminate. If the vehicle is equipped with an Front Display Interface Module (FDIM), the segments on the FDIM illuminate, rather than the ACM . Button #6 is to retrieve ACM Part Number (shown as "RADIO CONFIG"). The ACM displays the ACM part number, and various configuration levels. Press the TUNE UP button to scroll to the desired function. IF YOU HAVE NAVIGATION As above to run test and before the speaker walk test is complete, press the "End Test" selection. You will see a display full of tests that you can carry out. Press the "On Demand Self Test" on the screen to test the audio system. At the end of the self-test, the display either indicates "Test Passed" or lists any DTCs present. (Note that the self-test may not indicate all DTCs that are present). If DTCs are suspected, retrieve continuous and on-demand DTCs using the a scan tool. By running a test, you can either be assured that everything is OK or what is wrong with your ACM. Here's a description of each test: "On Demand Self Test". The ACM carries out a self-test. At the end of the self-test, the display either indicates "Test Passed" or lists any DTCs present. Note that the self-test may not indicate all DTCs that are present. If DTCs are suspected, retrieve continuous and on-demand DTCs using the scan tool. "View DTCs". The ACM displays any DTCs that are present. If there is more than a full screen of DTCs present, to scroll through the DTCs, press the down arrow on the display. If no DTCs are present, the display reads NO DTCS. Press the "Clear DTCs" selection to clear any DTCs present. "Configuration Status". The display shows the ACM configuration. A "0" indicates the item is configured off, while a "1" indicates the item is configured on. If the ACM appears to be misconfigured, refer to Section 418-01. (Basically this involves reprogramming the Audio Control Module. This is something only your dealer can do. "System Info". The ACM displays system information for various components of the audio system. The following items are most important for servicing the audio system: Nav Radio Part Number — provides the ACM part number ESN1 — provides the satellite radio Electronic Serial Number (ESN) "GPS Info". The current Global Positioning System (GPS) satellite information is shown, along with the current vehicle position. Pressing the "SV Status" selection provides additional information, if present. "Speaker Walk Test". The ACM carries out the speaker walk test. "DVD Mechanism Test". The ACM tests the internal CD/DVD drive mechanism. "Display Test". This test provides for testing of the touchscreen colors and the touchscreen sectors. Pressing any of the colors on the display causes the whole display to change to that color; pressing the display again returns to the Display Test menu. Pressing the "Touchscreen Activation Test" selection enters the touchscreen sector test. Press any area of the screen to test the touchscreen sector; press the "X" at the RH lower corner of the display to return to the Display Test menu. "Hardkey Test". This test provides for testing of the ACM buttons (not the touchscreen). When each button is pressed, the screen displays the button that is active. This test can also be used to isolate a stuck button. "Radio Signal Strength". The ACM displays the AM/FM antenna signal strength. To run this test, the audio system should be in AM radio tuner mode before entering the ACM self-diagnostic mode. "HDD Test". The ACM tests its internal hard drive. "Sensor I/O Status". The ACM displays inputs it is receiving from external sources. These inputs include: Ignition — indicates ON (ignition in ACC or RUN) or OFF Brake — indicates ON (brake applied) or OFF (brake not applied) Illumination — indicates ON or OFF ReverseGear — indicates ON (vehicle in reverse) or OFF (vehicle not in reverse) "Microphone Test". The ACM tests the microphone by supplying a test tone and monitoring the input from the microphone. As this vehicle is not equipped with a microphone, this test does not provide any diagnostic assistance. "SDARS Signal Strength". The ACM displays the satellite radio antenna signal strength. "Mother-in-Law Seat Airbag Shrapnel Test". This causes the passenger airbag to inflate and spray the passenger seat with deadly shrapnel. You can only run this test once before needing to install an new airbag. (I got bored typing and went off in a tangent. Sorry). If you have a non-navigation ACM, you can TEST your SIRIUS radio 1.Turn the ACM on. 2. Operate the audio system in satellite radio mode. 3. Press and hold preset buttons SIRIUS and 2 for 3 seconds. 4. Upon entering the self-test, the audio system produces 2 continuously alternating tones of different pitch, one for the right channel, then one for the left. The test continues by displaying any DTCs currently present. If no DTCs are present, "NO DTCS" is displayed. If there are DTCs present, the ACM auto-scrolls through the list of active DTCs. Historical DTCs can be viewed by pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button #2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while in the active DTC mode. If any DTCs are present, pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) prompts CLEAR DTCS? on the ACM . To clear historical DTCs, press preset buttons 1, 2, and 3 consecutively within 4 seconds. To exit historical DTCs (with or without clearing DTCs), press the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously. If no historical DTCs are present, pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while in active DTC mode displays the DLP software version. To exit the satellite audio bezel diagnostic test, press the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while the DLP software version is displayed, or turn the ACM off.

I may be wrong, but it's my understanding that you will not hear anything if there no woofer there. You may have the speaker but the amp is bad.

This rang a bell with me. I had something similar happen to me back in the 80's. I gased up at a remote station and the car started to choke about 1/2 hour later. The garage found the gas had been full of gunk (later, after the a**h*** was out of business and left town, we all learned that he had pumped another station's in ground tank dry, gunk at the bottom and all, and took it here to the station I had used. (As had dozens of other people). Anyway it had clogged the tanks pickup, fuel filter, carb filter and car jets. (Stuff was fine, got through the filters but "clingly" was the way they described it to me). Getting it all clesnef out cost over $300 (again back in the 80's). Any chance you got a bad load of gas? Any chance the car sat for a time and the gas had Ethanol which may have separated out, drew moisture to it and turned gunky? Had a snow blower I had let sit over summer with Ethanol gas and it clogged the small jets in the carb. Poured in a 1/4 can of Sea Foam, ran the engine for a while to get the Sea Foam into the carb, shut it off and let it sit for a week. The Sea Foam disolved the gunk and cleared the jets.

So are you getting any sound out of the grill?

Phone 1-800-392-3673 Mail Ford Motor Company Customer Relationship Center P.O. Box 6248 Dearborn, MI 48126 Email addresses are kept confidential.

Cargo area, passenger side. Look for the molded grill. Dealer can access this information on the Ford network. Usually they are happy to things like this. As for having confidence in a dealer, remember that to be a certified Ford dealer the mechanics and technicians are required to be school certified. Those that work on transmissions are transmission certified. Tires, high school kid (in training). If you are dissatisfied, ask to speak to the owner. It's in his best interest to keep you happy. If you don't have confidence in the service shop, talk to the Service Manager and tell him your concerns. He reports to the owner (President of the dealership) and will usually go overboard to build your confidence in them. People having confidence in their business is critical to their future. We had a local Chevy dealer, Kirk Chevrolet, who was a crook. Service always doped cars to return for future problems. Word got around, it poisoned the community and they had to close. All service reps (not Service Mgr) will try to bump up the bill. It's a big part of their job. Understand this and you have the power to keep them at bay. On a completely unrelated note, as I can't sleep, when I was in tech school before the Marines, I used to work in servicing radios and TVs back in tbe mid 60's. I would fix the TV and the owner would come in and change a different tube or capacitor or resistol so the TV circuit would draw more current and fail again in six months. That was a common practice when people serviced radios and televisions. I had applied to RCA for a tech job. During the walk through, was briefed on the product lines. Several TVs had the same chassis. But the ones with the better wood cabinets would last longer. Three to four years longer. I asked why and was told that while it was the exact same chassis, they changed a single electrolyte capacitor which would weaken the entire chassis and shorten the life in the cheaper sets. Thats just business. Confidence is in knowing HOW the cheat.

Several ways to go about this, easiest is to tune to an FM station, lean into the cargo bay and stick your ear up to the sub-woofer grill. Hear sound? Yes. No sound? No. 2nd way is, next time your at your dealer, ask the service rep to print out a copy of the window sticker. Will tell you what was installed on your car "as built".

The recommended pressure is based on a estimated passenger and luggage loading. Perhaps lowering the pressure to 33 psi will provide sufficient safety while making for a softer ride. I would not go below ~5% however.

Could be unrelated but I thought I remembered reading about something similar on the site. See if this sounds simular to the problem your having. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/3586-2007-edge-unexplained-stalling/

Beginning to wonder about a faulty fuel pump or some other part in the fuel system starving the car for fuel. Codes?

Check for corrosion on each of the sensor connectors.

I loozed at my 09 mkx and there doesn't appear to be any adjustment. I would suggest spraying the lock mechanism with silicon spray. The locking mechanism may be binding, not allowing the lock to fully engage. Alternatively you can buy a new latch ($20 ebay) or complete glove box off ebay ($50 ebay, used).

I agree with Crutchfield being a good place to start. Good selection and good backup. Here's a link with 2009 Ford Edge selected. (Steering wheel control harness will run an extra $30). https://www.crutchfield.com/g_462550/Double-DIN-Car-Stereos.html?tp=72406#&avf=Y&nvpair=FFSize|Double-DIN&nvpair=AG_Radio_Features|FFHD_Radio_Tuner_Built@in&nvpair=AG_Radio_Features|YCRadio_Data_System&nvpair=AG_Steering_Wheel_Control_Compatible|FFAdapter_Required&nvpair=AG_Front_Panel|FFFace:Fixed

As the car was originally registered in a hot, humid climate, you should have had the air bag changed already. Ever ask the dealer why? One letter I got stated that these cars took priority and would get changed first.

Another possibly is a clogged catolitic converter.

IF your considering changing from one coolant type to another, you may be interested in the official Ford procedure for doing so. It's for 2007 through 2009 (my car) but should provide guidance as to Ford officially recommends as any mixing of different types will create a clogged cooling system. 2009 MKX Cooling System Corrosion.pdf

Attached is a chart showing what models/years came with what coolants: coolants.pdf

I thought the highest risk areas were down south in hot, humid climates?How would Connecticut qualify?

When you turn the key on your hot-soaked car, does the instrument cluster gauges respond, the warning indicators light? (Ignition switch controls them as well).

Possibly one of the pads warn past min. Even though they were checked, pads can break and you may be metal-to-metal. I would have it checked at local dealer asap. Ford website should have coupon for free brake inspection.

Could just pull it out and send oem unit in for repair. Lot cheaper. https://navrepair.com/products/ford-lincoln-sony-sync-2-apim-with-myford-touch-8-screen-repair-service